(Topic ID: 63352)

Twilight Zone Owner's club

By Caucasian2Step

10 years ago


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  • 15,208 posts
  • 946 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by ottodawg
  • Topic is favorited by 501 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

8 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #5897 Updated 9.4H manual with corrections from Coyote Posted by Coyote (5 years ago)

Post #8716 Have your picture taken in the translight Posted by Neal_W (3 years ago)

Post #10381 Switching to stereo sound. Posted by hawknole (2 years ago)

Post #11803 How to Add 3rd Magnet. Posted by mbaumle (2 years ago)

Post #11810 Third Magnet Parts List Posted by mbaumle (2 years ago)

Post #13048 Board replacement options. Posted by DumbAss (1 year ago)

Post #14049 Flipper cabinet opto board data Posted by DumbAss (10 months ago)

Post #14166 More key board data Posted by DumbAss (9 months ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#6367 5 years ago

Wondering if someone can tell me what I'm missing here. My daughter was playing TZ the other night and the slot kickout refused to kick the ball out. I took the kicker assembly apart and had a look at the end of the plunger, and it looks like something is missing. Is the plunger supposed to be open like that? From the diagram in the manual, there looks to be something there, but I can't quite work out what. I've checked everywhere on the playfield and in the cabinet but can't seem to find anything that might have fallen off. Anyone have a picture or part number for what this should look like?

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#6371 5 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Your kicker plunger is busted

Thanks guys. Thought so. I can’t find the remnants anywhere. Maybe they disappeared ... into the Twilight Zone

#6391 5 years ago

Just an update on my Twilight Zone issues. Initially I had to change the plunger in the solenoid with a broken tip. Taking the slot kicker assembly out in order to replace the plunger I took the opportunity to test the whole assembly and found that the solenoid was also reading around 1.2ohm, which didn't sound right so I chose to replace that as well. Putting the unit back together I found the tip wedged in the scoop, which took some fishing to get out.

When I finally got the broken tip removed and the assembly replaced, during game play testing the ball refused to be detected correctly when it entered the slot machine. Testing all the switches along the way appeared to be correct and manual testing also verified all the switches work as expected. It was only when I took apart the switch under the slot machine I could see it had been vaguely bent, probably when the tip broke off and wedged in the scoop and 3 or 4 balls got stuck in with it

To cut a long story short, a small correction back to the switch spring wire fixed the machine and it's now playing better than ever. I think the wire had been previously bent a little and when the tip broke, it finished the job. The difference between working and not working is only a few mm...

1 week later
#6420 5 years ago

Add another Twilight Zone with Ingo boards. I bit the bullet and ordered some of his boards to fix my clock. They appear to be the best on the market. Can't wait for them to turn up and get my clock to work

#6449 5 years ago
Quoted from dts:

Have any of you guys swapped out the autoplunger solenoid for a stronger one?

This more often is due to a misalignment of the plunger, or slack in the plunger bracket. I saw an article about adding a washer to the bracket to direct the plunger arm fractionally either left or right as required. The solenoid should be strong enough to launch the ball, it just needs to shoot straight.

1 week later
#6462 5 years ago

I’m in the process of repairing my clock and need to replace the front faceplate to which you attach the clock sticker. The manual lists the part as 03-8835 however no one seems to stock it. Anyone know where you can get one from?

#6465 5 years ago
Quoted from Durzel:

he is referring to the plate that the decal is stuck to

Yes, this is the piece I'm looking for. Mine was heat damaged so I was looking for a replacement. Seems hard to find the part on it's own.

Thanks for the link. I've been scouring the usual traps to try and find the piece on it's own so this one looks good. Odd that none of the big retailers keep the part, but good that someone has it.

1 month later
#6678 5 years ago
Quoted from RVH:

Dose anybody know where I can get a complete board with arm and mounting plate?

Have a look here:

http://www.greatlakesmodular.com/index.html?http://www.greatlakesmodular.com/products/pinball/jd_rfb.html

This is a redesigned version. I don't deal with Great Lakes so can't comment on how they work, but they are replacements for the assemblies

#6729 5 years ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

Is that normal for this machine and if not is there such a thing as extra long levellers?

Which holes do you have your back legs plugged into? Sometimes the legs at the back are screwed into the top and middle holes, rather than the middle and bottom holes making it hard to level up the machine.

2 months later
#6859 5 years ago
Quoted from ramegoom:

I have a couple of prototype "mirror" clock faces and also the clear lens for the front of the clock if you are looking for something different

PM sent...

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