(Topic ID: 63352)

Twilight Zone Owner's club


By Caucasian2Step

5 years ago



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#479 4 years ago

Bringing up clock boards (again)..

Does anyone have Ingo's board? (http://www.german-pinball-modular.de/final-tz-clock-pcb-english.html)

If so, how's it handle GI dimming?

Post edited by Coyote: Fixed copy & paste of URL. Sheesh..

#482 4 years ago
Quoted from Caucasian2Step:

Has anyone done this with their game yet? Reviews? Other than the Gumballs, this may be my only other mod to my TZ game. At $400, it better be most righteous!
http://www.youtube.com/embed/4BKxpeR3ZsU?autoplay=1&rel=0
http://www.pinsound.org/pinballs/wpc-fliptronics/twilight-zone/
Thank you.

I have one on preorder. Haven't gotten it yet. Unfortunately, when I DO, it'll still be a while before I can play with it, since my PF's coming out to get restored.

Honestly, I'm not at all interested in any of the advanced features. I'm a sucker for the original, and hoping that the board does good with the original sounds. Unlike the actual soundboard, this one uses WAV files recorded from the original board. This means, too, that there's "more channels" than the original board. (i.e. Restarting a game as you shoot the ball. Serling says, 'You open this door with the-' and gets cut off by the slot-machine sound. With this board, it's entirely possible (and likely) that now both sounds will play over themselves.) This means that, agian, in theory, you could have two different characters ('The Power' and Serling) talking over one another.

And, again.. I'm not interested in the 'remade' sounds. (I'm not a big 'mod' guy, either..)

#486 4 years ago
Quoted from Miguel351:

I do. Love it!
The clock lights only dim long term when the GI saver is active. Even then, they're great. Otherwise it acts, reacts, and appears as expected from a factory board with incandescents.

I thought the clock lights dimmed during the Jackpot animation as well? (Oddly, during gameplay, I'm more interested in than attract mode, since I like watching all the light-shows.) I'll play my game tonight and verify this. If they don't, then I'm not too worried about it.

Quoted from Miguel351:

I'd wait for the original DCS sounds that Chris Granner composed for TZ to be released before you go changing that board out....

Okay, I'll admit, I'm new to this site (but not pinball in general, nor my TZ).. I'll have to search this up and read about it..

#488 4 years ago
Quoted from Miguel351:

There are many situations where the lights on the clock flash and slowly fade in and out during gameplay. These LEDs that Ingo uses fade in and out beautifully. They even have a brightness control pot on the main board. Once I set that brightness to exactly what it was with the incandescents, someone would be hard pressed to be able to look at my clock and tell me I had warm white LEDs in it.

Yup! I knew my memory wasn't fooling me. Played a handful of "ehh..." games, but noticed it. Good to hear then, I'll be getting one of his!

Quoted from Miguel351:

Start watching this at just after the 1 hour mark and feast your ears on the awesomeness:
http://www.ustream.tv/recorded/54067202

That. Is. Awesome. And someone made a comment about that different main-play music, and I agree - that would change the 'feel' of the game <b>considerably</b>!!

1 week later
#505 4 years ago
Quoted from swedishc:

Has anyone tried patching the game roms with the non-ghosting patch? TZ seems to have a pretty major issue with LED ghosting, so before I get the LED OCD board I would rather just patch the roms.
The patch did wonders on my TAF and ToM, but I haven't tried it on my TZ yet.

There's one for the TZ?

Once my playfield is sent off and returned, I'm just going to bite the bullet and get the OCD board.

Why?

Because my power-driver board over-drives the LEDs, burning them out withing a few games. (Anyone else have this? Or is my game 'special'?)

#508 4 years ago
Quoted from Craig:

I have the Cointaker premium LED set in mine, and they have worked consistently.

Actually, the Cointaker's are the only ones I've ordered. And they're the ones burning out. They've offered replacements, at their cost (hey, that makes them good people, in my book), but I didn't take them up on it, as it's obviously an issue with my game.

Quoted from TrainH2o:

I would verify that the voltage is correct, at the lamp sockets that are burning out.
All of my backbox lighting is LEDs, with the exception of the blinkers. I have a few of them in playfield inserts, but I haven't had a problem with any of them burning out. There are a few that blink differently during attract mode.

Lamp voltage is 17v at the feed, and using a scope, I get a pulsing 17v, which I believe is correct - the 6.8v is an averaged out reading of the on/off pulses? (Which also causes the flicker in the LEDs..)

I didn't try any of the GI sockets, just the controlled lamps. (I do have some of the blinking "545" replacement LEDs in the backbox - those are fine.)

D'oh - I forgot to mention - my power driver board is a PinLED, as well - NOT the standard WMS board. (Another reason I didn't accept Cointaker's offer to replace them, as as far as I know, it could be the 3rd-party board causing it.)

#515 4 years ago
Quoted from TrainH2o:

So your issue is with the controlled lamps, not GI?

Correct - the only LEDs I have in GI are the blinkers, and they work fine; no burnouts.

Quoted from 2Kaulitz:

Well i just entered the Twilight Zone Now its time to get it up & running

Congrats. It's a hell of a game.

#519 4 years ago

... Is it still a mod if it came from the factory that way?
IMG_20141107_212240.jpg

#521 4 years ago
Quoted from TrainH2o:

In my opinion, those are the best "mods" to add to a pin. The ones that Bally and Williams were too cheap to put on all production pins, like the door panel flashers and the Spiral sign. I also add those that improve game play, or protect from plastic or playfield breakage.
The only true cosmetic mods I have added are the plastic gumballs, and recently I changed out the amber pop bumper cap for one that truly looks orange.
I did order Ingo's clock board, simply because I am tried of fixing my OEM clock boards. I also plan to create and add my own graphics to the very back of the playfield.

Me too - I (we?) are probably in the minority, but I don't care for mods. The only non-factory one on my game is the laser-cut streetlight over the powerfield.

I unfortunately lost my left spiral sign, I may have to make my own, and yes, once my playfield comes back, I'll be getting Ingo's clock as well, mine's just about had it.

#525 4 years ago

Early change?

So, this is something I've always wondered about, but haven't been able to ask anyone about.

My TZ's made in early April, but my playfield is dated early March, and had the door flashers, magnet, and optos wired from the factory. Bumper posts weren't installed, but neither were the plastic plugs.

Now, if you look at the PR photo of the playfield, if you look at the plastic to the left of the bumpers (where the flasher is), you'll see that the top plastic is red. (In samples and prod games, it was re-colored to the purplish roof tiles design.) You will notice, however, it's larger than the plastic underneath. While the coloring was changed, the shape was never modified.

Now, while the shape/size of the plastic is odd, the one underneath doesn't seem to match. However, the top one - the one that changed - does seem to line up to an unknown, patched hole in my playfield. (See attached picture.)

I'd hazard a guess that the middle star post for the plastic (the T-nut in the pic) used to be over some, more towards the pop bumper, but was moved.

Thoughts? What's your playfield have there? Anyone have a different lower plastic that would give any hints?

IMG_20141109_113849.jpg

--M.

#527 4 years ago
Quoted from 2Kaulitz:

Anyone know were i can get a bracket for the Proximity boards ? My project is missing that and the new board set does not come with it.

Honestly, I'd look into getting a small piece of metal (from like Home Depot) and bending a new bracket. Would probably be your cheapest bet. (Alternatively, keep an eye out on eBay for someone parting a game?)

My replacement boards - from WMS, years ago! - also came without a bracket, so at least current makers are following in WMS's footsteps.

#528 4 years ago

For those that have LEDs in their game, a question -

I purchased a Warm White (anti-ghosting from Cointaker), and have been testing it in various inserts. On white ones, it looks fine. The white's a little.. well, whiter. However, when I put it in an amber-colored insert (Super Skill, Door Panel, etc), it made the insert look *yellow*. So yellow I questioned if I should even worry about LEDs then..!

3 weeks later
#544 4 years ago
Quoted from ALY:

Anyone here not having optos as flipper switches on TZ?
I have leaf switches and I wonder if that's maybe an early version of TZ.

As far as I know, no TZs were ever sent out with leaf switches for flipper buttons.

#548 4 years ago
Quoted from JDee:

ok thanks!
And do I have to set tournament?
What does tournament mode implies?

See the manual, page 1-31. It's a setting to make score *in the same game* more representative/balanced. It won't do a thing for you if you're comparing your scores to other owners'.

#550 4 years ago

Me personally, I don't care how my scores compare to others - mainly because for me, the condition and feel of the game can alter my score hugemongously. I like playing more than hitting the start button, so I set Replays & Specials to Extra Balls.

#554 4 years ago

PB Erie - He has blue LEDs in GI, which washed everything out.

#555 4 years ago

Hey guys -
After recreating the 'removing mini playfield' cabinet decal, I decided to recreate the 'leveling mini playfield' decal as well.

A couple questions for everyone -
(1) Where was this mounted? On playfield? In cabinet?
(2) If I recreate it, would you want the shaded 'dots' in the wood playfield to be exact, or should I apply a better halftone?

Cheers all - I'll post them here once they're both finished.

#557 4 years ago
Quoted from ryanwanger:

Mine is inside the cabinet...on the bottom. I can get a pic in a few days if you want it.

If you don't mine, thanks!
My "Removing the Playfield" is in the bottom of the cabinet, but my leveling label fell off many years ago.

#559 4 years ago
Quoted from TrainH2o:

I've never seen that sticker. Maybe I was robbed.

Well, here's one for you to print out, and put.. uhm.. wherever it's supposed to go.

I attached three versions of the Leveling Mini-Playfield - One with the original 'dots' from my label (which is in bad condition, some dots may be missind), one with an even half-tone, and then one with a simple 'grey' in the elevation of the playfield.

The other one attached I had attached in another thread, it's the larger label for removing the Mini Playfield.

They're all free to use, but before making and selling them commercially, contact me.

Level Mini-Playfield (original dots).pdf Level Mini-Playfield (shading).pdf Removing Mini-Playfield.pdf Level Mini-Playfield (even halftone).pdf
#562 4 years ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

I dont think that mini playfield level sticker is anywhere? I have a huo tz and don't see it anywhere?

Really? Huh. I'd originally say that this must have been dropped in production games - HOWEVER, Sample/Prototype Games didn't have adjusting screws..!

You're real close to me. I may have to come up and compare your game to mine.

#565 4 years ago
Quoted from TrainH2o:

Thanks, just not sure what to do with it.

Quoted from bigd1979:

Yea I have the one for the removal of the mini playfield but nothing for adjusting it? Where do u think it would go? Your welcome to come hang and play and talk pins anytime

Me neither! That's why I asked. I do have a location on the underside of my playfield that is discolored and about in the size of the decal - when I get home tonight I'll get a closer look..
Since the label has an arrow surrounding the text, I figure it had to go somewhere that the arrow pointed to, but that's not really possible since the arrow is pointing to the right (meaning the decal would have to have been on the mini playfield?!)

I'll send you a PM - maybe if/when I do come up to take a look at your games, I'll bring my blue powerball, and see how good you are with it.

#570 4 years ago
Quoted from dmacy:

Mine never came with one but was restored so who knows. They did install a new UP removal sticker though.
Did see this on eBay so maybe they were just a loose sticker and you place it where you want?
image-726.jpg 76 KB

Well, considering how many of us had loose stickers - or stickers not in the game, at least - it's looking more and more likely.

#572 4 years ago

Hey guys -
If someone can look at their game - Does your Start or Extra Ball buttons have a molex plug in the wires, about 4 inches from the button? (i.e. Crimp terminals onto the switch/light housing, and then straight into a 4-pin Molex plug?)

If so, can you grab a shot of that, and let me know which wires are in which pins? The molex plug on mine (I do have one) wasn't done properly, so at some point messing with the wire harness, all the pins came out. D'oh.

Thanks!
-Mike

#577 4 years ago
Quoted from swedishc:

Thanks!
Ok, last one. Is this one even used?

GS-TZ31-1765-15L.jpg 2 KB

Quoted from TrainH2o:

This is the Spiral Sign that was left off the production pins. It sits above the entrance to the left spiral loop.

lamp.jpg 58 KB

Oh, can one of you scan yours for me? I lost mine in a GA -> MD move, and want to get it back on the game! It means making my own, of course, but I need a scan first.

Thanks!!

#583 4 years ago
Quoted from TrainH2o:

I don't have the spiral sign in my TZ, but Marco has the blank plastic. You'll have to use water slide decals to make the lettering.

That was exactly why I asked for a scan, actually! However, Matt offered his since he's not using it.

Interesting, his does not have the text on it - I can honestly say in all the research I've done that I haven't seen that before.

Edit: Now I see that piece in Marco's catalog, without the text. Huh!

#585 4 years ago
Quoted from TrainH2o:

Yes, it's a bit funny to see the plastic for sale new, without the text.

I have the font, so I'll likely print out a water-slide decal and place it over top.

#586 4 years ago

Unrelated to the sign, I'd like to point out -
In relation to GLM's new Door Panel PCB, which has the flashers in all four door panels, the flashers aren't "factory" correct. After talking to him about it, I was able to confirm that the bottom two just mimick the top two, but flipped. (BALL & LOCK 1, GUM & LOCK2).

Originally, the lower two flashers were wired to:
Lower Left - Solenoid #17 (Pop Bumpers)
Lower Right - Solenoid #37 (Upper Right Flipper)

--Me.

1 week later
#612 4 years ago
Quoted from 2Kaulitz:

I'm in process of fixing/rebuilding my Twilight Zone. What places are best for finding parts as marco seems kinda high for some stuff. Also looking to buy parts so if you have anything let me know or even a bad play field that populated.

I'm getting 90% of my stuff from PBL, as they were cheaper. Some of the items that PBL didn't carry I had to/will get from other places.

#615 4 years ago
Quoted from Strummy:

Btw, I saw some posts about LED ghosting on TZ. I replaced a bunch of inserts with LEDs and have no issues. I had a T2 a while back with ghosting problems and it turned out to be a loose connection on one socket that was causing a bunch of LEDs to ghost.

Yeah, my game has horrible ghosting and strobing. So bad, I had to change it back - once I get it back together I'll be getting the LED OCD board to try.

Note, however, I'm using PinLED Power Driver board, so that may be part of the problem.

4 weeks later
#644 4 years ago

Personally, I'm one for a more 'stock' look.. I dislike the bright blue 'glow' everyone seems to put in their game - to me it washes out some of the artwork and seems to scream 'look at me, I'm lighting everything up!'. (No offense.. it's just not a look I like.)

Now, when I get my PF back, some of the GI lights will be converted to LED, specifically the ones near the back of the field, and other hidden ones. For visible lights (under slingshots, under bottom lane guides, etc) I'll leave those incandescent. Undecided yet on insert lights..

#647 4 years ago
Quoted from Hwawonyu:

Because it looks better. old bulbs look like crap. Old yellow lighting .

Replace your bulbs, don't use #47s. #47s run cooler because they're dimmer. Bulbs with silvering will appear yellower and dimmer. Replace 'em. With new, good bulbs, it looks fantastic.

#649 4 years ago
Quoted from johninc:

Um, I think you might have a typo there.

*facepalm* Yeah, sorry, jeez. That's what I get for not having my caffiene in the morning.

1 week later
#672 4 years ago
Quoted from Doostur:

Anyone needing a clock board, I highly recommend Ingo Kramer's Board with rainbow LEDS.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ingo-kramers-twilight-zone-tz-clock-board-rainbow-leds-blue-housing

Note that he ahs the boards on backorder - won't be ready until first week in March.

#681 4 years ago
Quoted from LitzDoc:

Does anyone have an idea where I can get a cleared TZ PF for a swap?

Check with Kruzman, OR, strip yours down, send it off to get done, and then when you get it back, put it in!

#690 4 years ago
Quoted from Spitfiren8:

Mine does the same thing. Has anyone tried a mezle target holder there!

One of the suppliers has a 'reinforced' version of the target. Unsure how well it works - Back in the mid-90's I put a pivot to a slot-kicker arm behind min, and it worked just fine for the last 15 years at least.

2 weeks later
#722 4 years ago

.. So..

Anyone with a PinSound think about hiring Mark Silverman to record some new lines for the game?

1 week later
#729 4 years ago

Okay, I had to laugh at this:

ebay.com link
Title: Twilight Zone Pinball Clock Housing Clear Mod

..Who knew that this was .. a mod? This means that my game's been modded since it came form the factory!

2 weeks later
#739 4 years ago
Quoted from DefaultGen:

Just joined the most prestigious club on Pinside. I picked up a nice unshopped game from a guy who bought in 1998 for $2000. Him getting a big profit for owning TZ for 17 years seems like a sweet deal.
Lots of work to do. Lots of parts, LEDs and mods to buy. $165 for that sweet laser cut mini playfield lamp, huh? Lots of $100+ toys with LEDs crammed in too. Looks like I'm in for a lot more in this game... and I'll be having to make some of my own mods.

I may be selling my cut "street light".. Won't know yet until I start reassembly. If you are interested, drop me a PM.

1 week later
#754 4 years ago
Quoted from cheshirefilms:

Check out the original flyer from Bally, that's not actually the case. The yellow always went upper right

tzflyer~2.jpg

Ted was quoted (though oddly, I cannot find it at the moment) that the flyer was incorrect.

Regardless, I like arranging them so if you get the skillshot, the corresponding pop bumper is lit. (Yellow - Yellow. Orange - Orange & Yellow, Red - All three). But honestly, you can do it any way you want.

#760 4 years ago
Quoted from AlexSMendes:

I have also heard about it... the colors of the pop bumpers on the flyer are not in the correct meant position. ... Anyway, I like mine all orange... the only differential being my lamp colors follows the order that Coyote posted (yellow, orange, red ).... it gives a nice subtle effect!

Interesting, have a pic?

I'm not into mods on my TZ, but the one thing I DID do was change the skirts to match the cap color.

1 week later
#780 4 years ago
Quoted from snowvictim:

Mine work when only BtP is on. Any recommendations for a fix?

Check for broken slash lose or incorrect switches.

When the game has flagged a switch bad in relation to the right ramp, the flippers well stay activated "in case" the ball didn't make it to / out of the mini-playfield. (Because if it did, and the game didn't know, the ball would re-enter the plaplayfield without the user being able to flip.)

#791 4 years ago
Quoted from Bowlingpin:

Pop bumper area has the 2 small caps/ plugs where "posts" I'm guessing once were.. And the ball lock insert is green.

SAMPLE. Not Prototype.

Quoted from Bowlingpin:

Does not have 3rd magnet, mini playfield has the "flip here" text.. So maybe it's just a early model? Manufacture date on the cabinet is 5/18/93

It sounds like a very late sample, or (more likely) very early production field.

#811 4 years ago

Picture request!

Could someone grab a close-up shot of the Rocket Kicker switch actuator showing through the playfield?

Thanks!

#813 4 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Here you go..m

20150426_184254.jpg (Click image to enlarge)

Huh! Thanks! That wasn't what I was expecting..

#815 4 years ago
Quoted from snowvictim:

My Rocket Kicker launches the ball into the left ramp habitrail most of the time... Lazy bastard!

That's what my game was doing when it was returned to me. The playfield on mine was very soft, and the rocket kicker arm had the 'catch' on top for the rubber (slingshot) - so over the years since it arrived at my arcade, the rocket kicker was adding slight downward force onto the ball. I left the arcade, the game stayed there for 2 years, and was never even opened. By the time I got it, the pit was so deep - about 1 inch from where the ball normally rests - that it was getting flung up into the crossover habitrail, hitting it, and rolling down the middle of the payfield.

Nothing could be done to fix the huge depression in the playfield, so I kep the game the next ten years with the rocket kicker banded off.

HEP has the playfield now, and he says he can save it. I should be getting it back soon, I'm anxious to get my game back together.. whew. But in preperation, I was going through my switches, and saw that my rocket kicker switch was cut - so wanted to see what it should have looked like.

#819 4 years ago

Hey guys -
Quick question!

For this game would ya'll recommend the metal leg protectors, or the plastic ones?

#822 4 years ago
Quoted from Spitfiren8:

Metal protectors if you actuall want to protect the cabinet art. If you have previous damage you can use metal underneath the plastic ones and still hide bubbling/wear.

Alright, thanks. Mine aren't perfect (after 20+ years..!) so there are ripples around the edges of the legs. Would like to protect it from getting any worse.

#837 4 years ago
Quoted from Craig:

Me, too. My original clock still works fine, but I figure I'll be holding onto this pin for a long time, so I might as well pick that board up now. Of course, I have a small collection of such things that I don't really need and so haven't yet installed!

Yeah - My works fine as well, but since my game is in millions of pieces, I decided to order one of Ingo's. My clock's now assembled, but the game ain't. I have my original boards in a baggie, in case I ever need to reference them. I can NOT wait to get my game assembled.. Just for the friggin' clock!

#848 4 years ago

Info Request -
Can someone check their game and look at the wires feeding to the Autofire Kicker?

There's ..
Black
Grey
Orange / ?
Grey / ?

Can someone gimme the ?'s?

Thanks!

#850 4 years ago
Quoted from btw75:

Grey/red
Orange/red

Thanks!

#855 4 years ago

What the hell is up with the apron?

2 weeks later
#884 4 years ago

Here's a pic, and a test for folks -
Can you find the one insert that's not correct, or has something wrong to it?
57_G.jpg

..It shouldn't be TOO hard.. And it's not the Lock - that's green.

#894 4 years ago
Quoted from ryanwanger:

Hard to see everything clearly, but the second word in the Dead End insert does not look like the word "End" to me.

Quoted from bigd1979:

Yea the pic is hard to really tell anything but the shoot again maybe?

Sorry for the pic quality - it was taken while the field was being cleared. I posted a better picture below, and you should see it *right* away. The 'End' looks like that because when this field was printed, the black was too thick - it's a lot thicker than other playfields I've seen. Some finer/smaller letters are kind of run-together.

Quoted from DavidPinballWizz:

After owning the machine for 17 years.. i finally installed the gumball flashers in the doorpanel

When I got my game in '95, I was looking through the manual on a plane trip from London to the US (end of vacation), and noticed a part number for a 'two flasher board'. On a whim, I called up my distributor and ordered it. When it arrived, I thought that was cool and plugged it in. (I have a sample game, so the plug for the flashers was already there.)

Look on the *ahem* right side of the playfield.
55_G.jpg

#895 4 years ago
Quoted from Invader:

Blue LED under playfield that shines on the Hitchhiker guy.

I'm NOT a big LED guy, and like colored GI's even less.

However, I DO like how the hitchiker is lit up, and could seriously consider that. What LED did you use there?

#898 4 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Spiral is missing!

Yup. Hah, said it was easy. Back when the game was delivered to our Arcade, the insert still had 'Gumball' on it. The tech that WMS sent down to get readings and make changes scraped the 'Gumball' off, and then realized he forgot the 'Spiral' decal to install. He asked me if he could mail it to us, and said that we could put it on.

We never got it, so I left the insert blank. When the game finally made it to my home, I figured it was a neat enough piece of history that when HEP worked on the playfield (that picture there is from him), I asked him to leave it blank, but clearcoat over it to protect it. (Before, since it was scraped off, it was rough..)

#912 4 years ago
Quoted from DefaultGen:

I took the front off of the clock for a better look. Does the hour hand actually do anything? The behavior is the same with the hands installed. I've been manually breaking the optos with a zip tie to test them out. It sounds like the motor should be working regardless of the clock board so I'll troubleshoot that this weekend.

Hour hand can be off. The hour hand does not break any optos - the disc it's connected to in the back of the clock does, so that's fine.

I would check your motor wires, like others have mentioned, then check the motor driver board under the playfield.

#921 4 years ago
Quoted from Magicchiz:

Anybody know the differences between opto boards on early sample games with 3rd magnet VS the production games?
Magiccchiz

Sample games had two 7-opto boards.
Production games had *1* 10-opto board.

1 week later
#959 4 years ago
Quoted from Leo13:

Please apologize my previous post, it's not 100% explicit.
I am talking about the first boot, when all the balls (5 steel + 1 ceramic) are out of the game. When you switch the game on, you are supposed to put the 6 balls in the drain and automatically 3 of them will be loaded into the gumball.
Mine does not load any. All 6 balls stays in the drain, jammed because there is no room for the 6 of them

One of your trough switches is not working. Check ALL trough switches in Switch Test.

1 week later
#994 4 years ago

Nice! Who did yours?

It's still odd to me to see the 'proper' colors on the ramp. I'm so used to mine -
colors.jpg

#997 4 years ago
Quoted from AlexSMendes:

You'll have to send yours to São Paulo - Brazil!
The artist who does those PF restorations is the same guy who used to paint Ayrton Senna's helmets!!!
He also restored my TAF and TotAN PFs!

Mine's already being worked on by Chris. Was wondering who you had down there in Brazil that did restorations! Nice!

2 weeks later
#1006 4 years ago
Quoted from pauloz:

Mine tells me there is a gumball switch error but the gumball machine works as it should every time.

Which switch? Exit? Entry? Popper?

#1009 4 years ago
Quoted from pauloz:

Says 55 gumball Geneva.

Ah yes -
Then what's happening is that the game is compensating for it - instead of stopping the motor when the Geneva switch is activated, it's stopping when the Gumball Exit switch is activated.

I would get it fixed, as if your Gumball Exit switch misses a ball one time, or goes bad, then you'll get multiple balls out on your playfield unintentionally.

#1011 4 years ago

For the record - The "-SP" designation on plastics does NOT mean it's a "sample plastic". The -SP came from the printer of the plastics. (Sun printing, I think? I'm not 100% on the name.)

The only difference was artwork changed, and this did not constitute new part-numbers on the plastics.

#1013 4 years ago
Quoted from dmacy:

Sun Process but I may be wrong as well Coyote!

Ah! That rings a bell, yup! (I had to rant because of an auction I saw, and had to clarify for anyone considering purchase..)

#1018 4 years ago
Quoted from Sethman:

Something I've not seen before is all 4 corners were drilled with 3 holes for leg bolts. In fact all mounting plates were 3 hole versions. Was that common on games?

Not sure about other games, but TZs had this standard. The 3-hold plates aren't made anymore (that I know of?) so when I replaced mine I had to line the holes up with the new plates before screwing them in.

#1028 4 years ago

That's a sample manual, yes. Not all that rare, as hundreds went out before the April version was typesetted and printed and then put into games.

You will see some notable differences, though, including the 4 door flashers, and removed optos.

#1039 4 years ago
Quoted from JOESCHALL:

Question about the ball kickout after the ball is locked--I'm speaking of the ball lock just behind the clock in the upper right of the PF. Beneath the PF, is there supposed to be a spring wrapped around the coil plunger (as on, say, sling coils)? Mine has no such spring, so I'm wondering if other TZs have the spring and mine has just broken off. It's a gentle sideways kickout so maybe there is no spring, but my plunger is having some trouble retracting even after a cleaning, so I'm thinking of adding a spring. Could someone confirm that their TZ does or does not have the spring?

Yes, there's a spring there. It's a very light one, but it's there none-the-less.

#1044 4 years ago
Quoted from Luppin:

I cannot see L-5 in this list... ??
Also, the Romset list is in alphabetical order, so I cannot figure out how recent is my revision.
Any help?

For the early ROMs, P was sample/prototype code, L was release code. Then the numbers - i.e. P-1, P-2, P-3, L-1, L-2, L-3, and so on.

Once TZ was moved over to the new version of the OS, they moved to the new numbering, 9.2, 9.4H..

My official notes don't have L-5 listed either. If you want, I can send you a version of your choosing, if you send me your chip - would like to grab a copy and see what (if anything) is changed in it. .. Of course, mailing time may be slow.

#1050 4 years ago
Quoted from Luppin:

Thanks! It makes sense now. L-5 should be the latest version for location. Do you think its worthed taking the home revision or not?

Actually, 9.2 is last on-location version.

#1059 4 years ago
Quoted from Luppin:

New owner here and learning the rules. Question about the powerball: I understand the powerball goal is to get powerball mania (multiball). The powerball is more difficult to control and easily drained, so getting the powermania multiball makes things safer. The powerball is initially released by the slot machine on the right flipper, and if not flipped it bounces comfortably on the left flipper. From the left flipper all you need to do is to shoot the right spiral orbit to get to powerball mania. After the bounce from the right to the left flipper, the powerball moves very slowly on the left flipper, so the shot to the right spiral orbit is very easy. I do this all the time and it works 9 out of 10 times. But in this way the powerball gameplay is extremely short. Is this the correct strategy, or am I missing something?

If you keep it in play longer, the 'Power Payoff' (the initial award for getting the powerball BACK into the gumball) is higher. But, then, you risk losing the ball, of course.

#1061 4 years ago
Quoted from Luppin:

Thanks. Although not always the powerball start the powerball mania if shot at the right spiral immediately... Why is that?

It should always.

If the gumball diverter doesn't open in time, then it'll continue the powerball mode.

#1064 4 years ago
Quoted from ALY:

It sometimes happen for me that the diverter doesn't open for me in time if the powerball flies super fast through the spiral.
Is that normal or is there a way to adjust it?

Yup! Shoot slower.

No, there's no real way to make it open faster. THe MPU can only run at such a speed, and depending on what else is going on in the background, it may not read the switches, and then read the EEPROM to jump to the memory to look up what to do.

When my game was clean and shiny, I could often shoot the loop and miss the diverter.

#1067 4 years ago
Quoted from Luppin:

I noticed the setting A.2 345: balls in gumball. Mine is set to 2, but I always have 3 balls in the gumball. The game plays fine. So why setting is 2 and I get 3.
And what is the point with this setting?

This setting really does not do much, if anything. The game will work fine with however many you have in there. It may be used on end-of-LITZ reloading, as well as 'virtual powerball' mode, when you have the gumball turned off. I've left mine on 3, but have 4 in there, and never had issues.

#1069 4 years ago

I personally keep 4 in the gumball, 3 in the trough - 6 steel, 1 ceramic - since my game was originally shipped with that. The game will ALWAYS keep 3 in the trough, regardless of how many are in the gumball. (For example - if you take a ball out of the trough and try starting a game, it'll ball search a few times, then spit a ball out of the gumball, load it into the trough and then let you start a game.)

1 week later
#1090 4 years ago
Quoted from Luppin:

Sometimes the ball, when very slow, stops at the top of the spiral orbit (in this area of the playfield is even difficult to see it). The only way to move it is to shake the pinball, sometimes getting a tilt. Is it normal that the ball stops up there? Any suggestion on how to reduce this problem?

Sounds like the ball's stopping on the gumball diverter, for some reason. Make sure that the diverter is closing fully. If it IS, just wait for a ball search then, and the diverter will kick the ball around. (Instead of trying to nudge it and tilting..)

Quoted from Luppin:

Of course it would imply rebalancing few things. I wouldn't make each mode too tough (in order to lit a panel), just a bit so that the player HAS TO DO something related to that mode. About making it to LITZ, it would certainly be harder. But this new set of rules would be home-use specific, so it would go along 5 balls (and 7 balls in the machine as the latest home-use rom), maybe longer times for ball saver, narrow outlanes, easing of some of the other rules and so on.
My point is that TZ is a machine so rich in features, that the game rules could be furtherly improved for a home-use crowd (where increased game time is not an issue).

Go grab FreeWPC, and get to work! Make it yourself!

1 week later
#1110 4 years ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

I'm surprised I have never posted on this thread. Long time owner of a re-import TZ. Some of my mods I built myself like Robby and the TV. Here is my cheap and simple solution for a TV mod. Hallmark ornament, gutted it and installed a lamp in the back and tied it into the GI. Gotta love that shooter lane!

What the heck happened to your autofire gate?!

#1112 4 years ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

I never really noticed that before. Looks smashed in. Something to fix!

The poor thing! Hey, it works, so you don't HAVE to fix it.. I was just wondering what happened to it.

#1117 4 years ago

Anyone know the screw size/type that holds the Power mini-playfield to the wireform ramp?

#1119 4 years ago
Quoted from DefaultGen:

My hole is stripped I originally put a #10-16 nut below the playfield but it was a hassle so I just leave the stripped screw in there now.

I lost the screw for my game back in 1996. It hasn't had once since. However, since I'm rebuilding it, I figured now was the time to finally get one.

#1128 4 years ago

For those that have LEDed your games - what TYPE (not color) did you use in the lightning bolts? (Power Payoff, mini-Playfield lights)

#1130 4 years ago
Quoted from DeeGor:

I went with the two headed flex LEDs for the bolts. I wanted to make sure the entire bolt was lit up and they work nicely.
http://www.cometpinball.com/2-SMD-FLEX-Non-Ghosting-p/2smdflexng.htm

Okay, yeah - I was wanting the whole bolt lit up, not spotted.

Thanks!
-Mike

#1132 4 years ago
Quoted from AlexSMendes:

Thanks for the answers, fellows.....
Well, I tried to start a game and then press the extra ball button for 5 seconds, but nothing happened.....
So.... I'm wondering if:
1) is there any specific setting I should change?
2) maybe my extra ball button is not working?
3) am I doing something wrong?

If the setting is enabled (A.2 48), then hold the Ex Ball button. The game will play the 'Twilight Zone' da-da-da-da, and light Piano and Slot (if not already). Then shoot into either one, and LITZ will be awarded.

Alternatively, for fun in tournaments, set A.2 14 to '4'. Hilarity ensues.

#1134 4 years ago
Quoted from AlexSMendes:

Yeah, I checked it and Litz Cheat is set to yes..... the game did not play the TZ song on start, but I will try with the glass off, shooting into the piano/slot....

Note -
You have to press the Ex Ball button while the game's already going.
Start a game.
Hold down the Ex Ball button for a long time, until you hear the TZ sound.
Then shoot the piano or slot.

And yes.. your Ex Ball button has to be working.

#1135 4 years ago

Well, f*ck.

When uploading some new images of my completed playfield, I accidentally wiped *all* of my shopout pictures.

So, I have pictures to go by. This isn't a problem for assemblies (I mean, slingshot brackets can only mount one way..!) It IS, however, really difficult to get all the GI sockets in the right places.

If anyone has a few moments and can grab some shots of their wiring harness - specifically the rear of the playfield, showing the left and right strips of lights, it'd be appreciated. I'll send you $ for a beer, if you can continue to help as I go.

#1137 4 years ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

This area? Grabbed a few angles from inside my project TZ. Waiting for cold weather before starting.

IMG_9148.jpg IMG_9147.jpg IMG_9146.jpg IMG_9149.jpg IMG_9150.jpg

Many, many thanks!
A couple of them were confusing, since the 'wire memory' wasn't matching the locations. Once I saw your pics, I got it. (For some reason, an extra amount of wire was used for two close sockets, which had thrown me.)

#1138 4 years ago

I'm surprised that I hadn't seen any other games - especially ones that owners name as being 'blacked out' use these -
IMG_20150818_201413.jpg
Locknuts, used to hold down plastics (and hold posts under the playfield), but in black.

I have been missing some for a while, so decided to order a bag of them, and saw that McMaster offered them in blackened chrome. Be curious to see how these look.

#1147 3 years ago
Quoted from AlexSMendes:

Looks like my ex-ball is really not working.... Set the game to buy a credit at the end of the game and I couldn't do it either.... So I got to have it checked...

There's a fantastic and MUCH easier way to tell..

It's called the 'Switch Test'. In fact, it's the first test in the Test menu. A lot easier than starting a game and playing three balls to find out.

#1148 3 years ago
Quoted from MiamiRedSkin:

How easy it is to get to the lock hole? Any order of things I should remove and subsequent instructions? My lock bricks out shots 9/10 times and I read that prying the lock hole slot open helps tremendously with this

You'll have to remove the Clock and the Right Ramp, *possibly* the left ramp (I don't remember if that got in the way.)

But like was mentioned, don't bend - insert a few washers under the *rear* two legs - this will lift it up and help a LOT.

#1150 3 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

There's a fantastic and MUCH easier way to tell..
It's called the 'Switch Test'. In fact, it's the first test in the Test menu. A lot easier than starting a game and playing three balls to find out.

..I mean.. unless you WANT to play a game.

#1152 3 years ago
Quoted from AlexSMendes:

Just went through the switch test, and it confirmed all my suspicious.... the button is really dead!!!

Admittedly, that's odd. There's not much there to fail. I'm guessing some wires between the button and the CDI got cut or unplugged.

#1154 3 years ago

Idiot question..

Some of the posts are #8-32. Some are smaller than that, however. What's the smaller size? #6-32? Some other size?

--Mike

#1156 3 years ago
Quoted from dmacy:

6-32. That's right Mike.

Thanks!

#1158 3 years ago

Yeah, that would help!

Anyone know of a source for a Cliffy Gumball protector? CHEP recommend one on the field he did for me, and .. apparently they're all out of stock?

#1160 3 years ago
Quoted from Invader:

I got a Cliffy gumball protector left, you can have it for 12$ shipping by letter post included

Heck, thanks! PM sent!

#1163 3 years ago
#1168 3 years ago
Quoted from DefaultGen:

I don't know if I have the wrong microswitch or what. The plastic part when you push the button in isn't long enough to actually actuate the microswitch. It's way off (Maybe 1/8") so I filled the gap with some foam tape.

When you get into the hobby, you should receive a welcome kit with flipper rebuild parts, vid's guides, Clay's guides, and a link to this article because you're going to need all of them eventually.

Hell.. I got started in '92. There was no internet, and I didn't know a THING about reading schematics. Thanks to several books bought used, I taught myself all these tricks and tips. Of course, this was back when you had to know what a command-prompt was on a computer, because there WAS no Windows 3.1.

Yeah, I'm old. If I had a front yard, and I had neighbors, I'd be telling those kids to stay off my lawn!

#1171 3 years ago
Quoted from DefaultGen:

rec.games.pinball has been around since 1990. Find me some nerds who has a real life pinball mailing last and I'll call them old

Yeah, but wasn't it on like, Compuserve or something? (Back then, I only connected to local BBSs and communicated via FIDOnet. Hehe..)

#1173 3 years ago

Hey guys!
Okay, another picture request. (I've gotten a lot done without pics. While I haven't needed them, I feel like I'm running blind without them - even though I haven't really needed any! )

Can someone grab a shot of the underside of the playfield up at top (bottom of PF; top when lifted up) showing GI and Lamp and flipper mechs?

Thanks!

#1175 3 years ago
Quoted from DefaultGen:

Here are a few I've got if they're helpful at all. I'd have to dig for better ones.

2015-04-06_23.32.18.jpg 2015-04-06_23.32.24.jpg 2015-04-06_23.32.21.jpg 2015-04-06_23.32.15.jpg 2015-04-06_23.31.47.jpg 2015-04-06_23.31.53.jpg 2015-04-06_23.31.50.jpg 2015-04-06_23.30.57.jpg

Thanks, that answered my questions! (I had two - specifically the GI string on the right side of the PF, which side the tie-in wires were at, and where the EB light was mounted.) I got both right!

#1180 3 years ago

Hey guys -
Sorry to bug everyone again! Need one more pic - under the playfield, just above (with playfield up, 'below' with playfield down) the gumball - showing the metal bracket for the camera / gumball, and the metal stop/bracket for the dead-end.

My dead-end stop isn't lining up where my memory says it should.

And I don't know if this was a sample change, or not, but the gumball protector I got (thanks @Invader!) seems to not mount the way it's supposed to. If I align the screw tab with the only screw it'll fit over, it's far too far to the left, and not protecting where the ball drops down through. It won't go far enough to the right for the screw-tab to engage the screw, so I'm leaving it in the middle, where it's protecting the playfield where it needs to (It's not fully installed, hence the uneven line..):
IMG_20150830_092232.jpg

And the screw tab underneath -
IMG_20150830_092217.jpg

I'm guessing that either - (1) I installed it completely wrong (..possible!), or (2) A change was made mid-run of the camera scoop that changed the # of screws on the top side from 2 to 1. (..also possible..)

Cheers!
-Mike

#1183 3 years ago
Quoted from JohnnyHK:

Looking at my TZ, that protector should slide all the way to the bottom in the top pic / all the way to the upper-right in the bottom pic as what it protects is the ball falling down from the mini-playfield above, not the ball rolling out of the gumball.
That's all based on where I see the wear on mine.

Quoted from Invader:

It's indeed to protect the corner of the wood from the balldrop from mini playfield.
So slide it all the way down and it will protect the area where the ball will hit the playfield.
My playfield already got some wear and the protector covers it now.

Interesting! Thanks guys. Apparently, yup, I'm an idiot. I was trying to protect the ball rolling out of the gumball. D'oh.

Still could use a pic, too, of the dead-end scoop!

#1187 3 years ago
Quoted from JohnnyHK:

Here's one I just took, hopefully it shows what you're looking for.
DeadEnd.jpg

Thanks!
Somehow I either messed something up, or again, it's another sample change. My dead-end scoop only has one screw hole on the top-right side, and can't figure out why. D'oh.

#1195 3 years ago

Pop Quiz!

So I noticed something today while assembling my flipper mechs. Some unused drill holes! Upon further study, apparently when my machine was assembled, the upper left flipper mech had to be moved - or the assembler was lazy.
IMG_20150905_104352.jpg
If you look closely, you can see two sets of holes at the tip of the Camera insert, and at the Super Skill insert.

Now, with my really early playfield, there are quite a few unused dimples and holes (including two meant for a switch bracket at the top of the Spiral loop).

But, I'm wondering - where is your UL flipper mounted? Which set of the above holes is yours mounted to?

#1206 3 years ago

Quick question guys -
The single-rubber post that's between the left outlane and inlane - is it attached to the playfield with a nylon locknut or a t-nut underneath the playfield?

#1208 3 years ago
Quoted from lb1:

Try this. http://christopherhutchins.com/gallery/album410/tzb_78?full=1. If it does not help I can go take a look at my playfield.

Thanks - I figured it out -

There are two single-rubber posts in the game with hex bases. The threaded part is too short for a lock-nut - these HAVE to go into T-nuts, and I am 90% sure that they go over between the autofire lane and plunger lane. (One at the bottom kickout, and the other at the top skill-shot scoop.

The rest of the posts use the nylon lock-nut. I just got mine mixed up when I was reassembling.

#1211 3 years ago

Hey guys -
Somewhere, on some site, I saw the wire standoffs for sale. These are the 'L'-shaped thingies that hold the wiring harness. Unfortunately, I don't have a part number, and can't seem to find it listed on pinlife or BAA - any pointers?

#1213 3 years ago

Ah, perfect, thanks! After many, many years, mine are mostly bent up.

#1215 3 years ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

How may GI bulbs in a TZ playfiled?
Need to get some parts lined up for my project.

Not an *exact* count, but having just put a lot in, I believe there are -
16 on left
13 on right

Give or take a couple. Not including backbox or coin door, including the #555 bulb behind the gumball machine.

#1217 3 years ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

Thanks, that's a good start. Some 'cool white frosted' LED should brighten it up, and their bluish tint should match the theme.
Next I have to decide on black or white rubbers.
Anyone have comparison pics?

Back in my day (yeah, I'm that old), White was preferred because it had a better bounce. I don't know if that's the case with today's rubbers or not, but I'm going white - I like bounce, and they help keep the game (IMHO) from getting too dark.

#1227 3 years ago
Quoted from dgoett:

OK - As requested.
20150911_175023.jpg 20150911_175008.jpg 20150911_174959.jpg 20150911_174414.jpg 20150911_174344.jpg 20150911_174019.jpg 20150911_173934.jpg 20150911_173549.jpg

Nice game - it's a later sample, since you have the production colors in front of the left ramp, but have the white door on the backbox.

#1228 3 years ago

Hey guys - Need help again, getting my game back up! It was surprisingly easy getting most everything together without pictures. Somehow, though, I have extra bolts that don't go anywhere, and am missing bolts I need. D'oh.

Question, if someone knows!

- What size screws go into the single-rubber adjustable star posts at the outlanes? (The screws I have that thread in there are too short; the screws that are long enough are a size too large.)
- What screws hold in the two star posts (that have rubbers around the two) above the right pop bumper?
- Finally, is it the same type of screw that's in the lone star post above the left pop bumper?

Surprisingly, I think everything else is in order..! It's looking like a game!

#1233 3 years ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

It probably was re decal with the white door ?

As far as I know, noone reproduced the white-door decal?

#1236 3 years ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

Really? I seen them before on a restoration? Just bc they weren't available from a licensee do t mean they cant be had

True, but one-offs don't count, in my book. Aside from that, few people even know of the difference, and would likely not spend the time and money themselves recreating decals JUST for the white door when pre-made decals are available. (Hell, I wouldn't. And I won't do my cabinet WITHOUT a white door up there..)

#1243 3 years ago
Quoted from dgoett:

white door decals are available at planetarypinball. it's a micro 3rd magnet playfield.
I actually have a REAL prototype gumball/collect spiral when lit plastic in the coin tub. they originally came with a decal over the plastic of the gumball machine. it's a rare piece to find.
it's kind of an imposter proto but has almost all the features and artwork of a proto. no red boards obviously.

Interesting. Ordered for future restore of my cabinet!

#1248 3 years ago
Quoted from AlexSMendes:

Yeah, I didn't make my self clear.... I was refering to the " REAL prototype gumball/collect spiral when lit plastic in the coin tub".

I'll grab a picture of mine in a little bit. My sample game was produced early enough where it left the factory with the sign referencing the spiral, and the arrow in the playfield referring the Gumball.

I was working at Challenges when the WMS tech came to apply changes to the game - including putting a decal over the right sign, changing it to the Gumball plastic, and scraped off the 'Gumball' insert text. He then found out he forgot the new 'spiral' decal, and told me that he'd ship it to us.

#1249 3 years ago

Here's a shot of the plastic. I took the decal off it as soon as I purchased the game. (I have a replacement 'sign' unit that has the correct plastic on it, but I like leaving this one in the game. The bulb still works as the Gumball Light, of course..) Under it, you can see my blank decal. The tech never mailed in the replacement 'spiral' label, so the insert has been blank for 99.9% of the game's life. I had HEP leave it blank and just clearcoat it, for memory's sake.

IMG_20150914_210038.jpg

#1251 3 years ago
Quoted from dgoett:

that's the one. it's really cool you know the entire history of your game.

I was there when it was delivered, and left the company (personell issues) for about 18 months before I snuck in and claimed it as my own.

The game USED to have the LEFT spiral sign as well (with the wording), but it's long lost now. I have a blank sign I'll be putting up sometime after my restore's finished.

#1254 3 years ago

Huh.. What WMS Parts Book was TZ in? I noticed that PPS doesn't seem to have it listed..!

Edit: Nevermind. Apparently PPS can't split their documents up properly. It's the GREY book.

#1261 3 years ago
Quoted from Luppin:

I read it is possibile to install 7 balls (6 + Powerball). Is it enough to add a sixth regular ball, or is it also needed a recent eprom?
I guess it is needed to set the number of balls in the Gumball to 4, right?
Also, the software sometimes "emulate" the powerball if the real powerball is not showing up after a certain amount of plays: 7 balls can create problems?

Technically, no adjustment is needed, no newer ROM is needed. The game was originally designed for 7 balls - 6 regular, 1 powerball. My machine still had the decal on it that says that, even. (It was dirty and scraped up, I had new ones made..) You can set the gumball adjustment to 4 balls, but I do not know if it will 'simulate' the powerball every 4 balls or not. Honestyl, the adjustment does not do much, as the game will load up balls into the gumball until there are only three in the trough, so you could have 2 or even 5 balls in the gumball, the game doesn't really keep track.

The game dropped a ball due to that amount of balls making LITZ a little too difficult with the jackpot shots and powerfield, as far as I heard.

Once balls go into my game agian, I plan on making it 7.

--Me

#1267 3 years ago
Quoted from Luppin:

What is the tournament mode setting doing? What means that multiballs and jackpots are equalized?

All random awards are .. well, not random. (i.e. All players will get the same Camera award, Slot machine awards first door panel clockwise from the top, etc.)

For multiball, etc, it means that they all start from the same value. (Though, since I rarely use tourny mode, I'm not sure if that affects TZ's operation, since Jackpot is set by how many balls locked, and then how many Greed targets are hit during multiball, etc.)

1 week later
#1276 3 years ago
Quoted from AlexSMendes:

Little issue here...: I'm not getting the piano award when I get the ball into the piano hole. Instead the machine is granting me a slot award..... is there any faulty sensor I guess? Can't see any error on switch test....

Piano switch is not registering. Check it.

#1277 3 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

finishing a friends TZ....last fix. What are the correct pop bumper cap colors? Seen diff combos...He has an orange one off a diff game so trying to get correct. I see lots of 2 red and a yellow.

Here you go -
IMG_20150922_070030.jpg

#1279 3 years ago

After getting back from the first of two work trips Saturday morning, I attacked my TZ and got a lot done this weekend -
IMG_20150927_131839.jpg
Lookat the reflection of that PF!

Anyways, pop quiz, two questions -

Anyone know the part # for these plastic standoffs? Located behind the switch rubber. They keep you from screwing down the plastic standoffs too far -
IMG_20150927_131947.jpg

And, where the heck does this post go? I have all the posts in my game, no open holes or anything...!
IMG_20150927_183230.jpg

#1282 3 years ago
Quoted from AlexSMendes:

Checked! Right on target, thanks! You know, sometimes I got to be less lazy/more curious!

Yeah, TZ has a lot of 'sequential' switches, where if one fails, you'll get a completely different event. (I.e. If the Dead End switch stops registering, a shoot up the Dead End would award a Camera.

#1285 3 years ago
Quoted from scampcamp:

Just got my TZ I can't tell if there 2 reds or 1 orange in there.. can anyone else?20150920_175735.jpg

Light them up.

Originally, some TZs were shipped with an 'Amber' or 'Orange' that was extremely dark - so much that it was easily mistaken for Red.

Honestly, I don't think it matters - just buy an orange one and toss it on.

#1291 3 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Just bought mine!! Really excited. Only got a couple games in but plays great. Looks pretty stock! I'll get pics. I'd like to hear what protectors are a must (haven't had time to read whole thread... I will). I'm thinking more in terms of longevity, not style type mods.

I was told by Chris @ HEP who did my PF to get protectors for the Gumball Exit and Slot. With the damage my PF had before, I went ahead and got the Rocket kicker protector as well. I'm thinking about getting a switch protector for the left inlane where the ball drops, but haven't been able to find one for sale yet. :/

#1293 3 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

cliffy has them, it's just a standard switch protector.

He does? Hmm.. I'll have to contact him then.

#1295 3 years ago
Quoted from TrainH2o:

Cliff calls it a drop switch protector. It's generic and he says the same one will work on various games.
I ordered one along with the slot protector, and a few for my IJ, last week.

Oh! That helps then! Thanks!

#1297 3 years ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

24. 03-8371 Spacer Spool #8
Found that on pg 2-40 of TZ operators manual.
Found them for $1.15 at Marco's.
http://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch;jsessionid=AFB426A21ACF711C0DDF1B8720B701CC.jvm1?SEARCH_STRING=03-8371

You have GOT to be kidding me. Thank you. I searched for 'plastic spacer', and even 'spacer' on a lot of the parts sites, and came up with nothing. Holy cow, 'spool'? I guess it is, but.. jeez.

#1309 3 years ago
Quoted from lb1:

I think this is the post that's in the tear down pic below.
IMG_0577.jpg

Huh, thanks. I'll have to put mine in now. Interesting..!

-Mike

#1327 3 years ago
Quoted from Scout:

Really?? Nobody knows?

I believe I heard once that it was thought the playfield had to be mounted in the cabinet at such an angle that to allow operators to get a better slope on the field, they could switch front holes to help increase pitch.

Sample games had three holes on front AND back - not sure if production cabinets kept that or not. AFAIK, noone makes the three-hole leg plates anymore.

#1328 3 years ago

Dupe. D'oh.

#1339 3 years ago
Quoted from ryanwanger:

Anyone know what type/size screw (and washers, if any) should be used on the habitrail leading to the powerfield? (It's affixes to a post that's between the left orbit and left ramp). Couldn't find it in the manual.

Believe it's the same as all the other posts - #6-32. (Maybe #6-40? Can't remember at the moment!)

3 weeks later
#1378 3 years ago

Hey guys -
Need some help, have a little mystery!

Can someone grab a shot of the ball serve bracket assembly by the prox sensor?

I had to get a new bracket (A-8268), however, the part I received appears reversed, yet the part number matches. I'm wondering if my manual's wrong, or this is another change in the sample run.

1 week later
#1410 3 years ago
Quoted from PjM:

Curious if the mini-playfiled with the "flip" word on it is more desirable or nostalgia? I am doing a restore and bought a new Mirco PF but I am thinking on sending the mini in for touchup and clear coat. Another $100 to do that. Will the game look or be perceived a little better? Also, why is it not on reproductions!

Quoted from Billy16:

If it were me, I'd rather have a mini playfield with no lettering. I believe that was the original concept, but no one who played the prototypes had any idea of what to do when the ball hit the upper playfield, so they added the "flip here" instructions to the production machines. Someone correct me if I'm wrong...

That's pretty much it. However, I don't think it adds much (if any) desirability of the game, since the fields are still available.. the buyer could change his own out easily by buying any machine..

#1421 3 years ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

Guys, I just got myself a TZ (yeah), though I am getting 80% bounce back/reject when I nail the lock... It doesn't look like there is something wrong though? Is that a common issue? Anyone knows about this?

It's a known issue, kinda - sample games (at least mine did) had small 1/8th inch spacers on the rear two standoff of the Lock cage assy.

When I rebuilt that area, I put two nylon locknuts all the way up the standoffs, and that seemed to be good.

#1426 3 years ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

thank you guys, i'll give it a try later today.
I noticed a couple of other things, sometime the ball doesn't come out of the through all the way and get stuck on the edge of the wood, some time from bouncing back from the shooter lanes separator?

Officially, you're supposed to lightly bend the end metal guides (upper, lower, and above) to get the ball aimed where you want it. However, an easier fix I've seen a lot of owners do is to remove the rubber on that post there.

Quoted from Mateo777:

Hi I thought I post in here and ask you guys your opinion on a possible purchase. The seller is selling a populated twilight playfield for bout $1000. It's missing a few parts and dirty as hell but I was considering purchasing it and restoring it to a full game. That's means I would have to buy a cabinet, boards and everything else to complete it. My question to you guys is do you think it's worth the money or am I crazy for even thinking it? I would have no plans on selling it and I did enjoy restoring a previous machine I own but I'm not quite sure if it's worth all the headache. Any opinions would be appreciated. Thanks.

You can get a new cabinet for about $1200, I believe, not including decals. You'll need transformer, power box, coin door, flipper buttons, cabinet wiring (coin door interface board, etc), tilts, shooter.. Then the cabinet wiring as well. Then you'd need the translite, knocker, boards like you mentioned, glass, siderails, legs..

It'd be one hell of a project, and you'd probably end up spending around $5k off the top of my head. However - on the plus side? You'd know that game inside and out.

Most of the stuff would be easy to get - flipper boards, tilts, coin door, etc.. And then others would be more difficult - transformer, cabinet wiring, etc.

Larger images of the playfield, and everyone could comment on anything important missing or not..

3 weeks later
#1466 3 years ago
Quoted from scampcamp:

So.. where does someone get one of those "Home ROM" is there a better version?

IPDB..

#1469 3 years ago
Quoted from scampcamp:

I've pm johnwartjr just waiting for reply.

Hell, if I wasn't heading out of town today for a week, I'd burn your a copy for free.

#1474 3 years ago
Quoted from scampcamp:

Does anyone know how many spotlights are on a TZ playfield originally? Should there be any of the cone shape style or just the rectangular ones? I would like to brighten it up some. Thanks
images (1).jpg
images.jpg

No spotlights. One streetlight over miniPF.

#1475 3 years ago
Quoted from AlexSMendes:

Do you have the X Files ROM?

I could easily find it, if it's not on IPDB.. But I won't be home until next Friday..

#1482 3 years ago
Quoted from T2play:

Should I LED my TZ or leave it. I am ok with the clock being colored led since I need a new one but I like the yellow look overall on TZ what do you have?

I went with warm white single SMD LEDs in everything(*), and LED OCD. You can't tell it's LEDed. That's how I like it. I really really dislike the over-saturation.
(*) Except: All visible bulbs (condoms, pop bumpers) are Incandescent, and the LOCK insert is a GREEN single SMD LED, to help make it stand out.

2 weeks later
#1487 3 years ago

Hey all -
Which cabinet protectors do you use on your cabinet? (If any?) The plastic ones, or the metal ones? I've read differing claims on which to use..

--Mike

#1489 3 years ago
Quoted from DefaultGen:

Has anyone said to use the plastic ones? I thought you're not supposed to use them except on painted cabinets. I have them on my TZ... f*** the police. I need to switch a bunch of my games over to the metal ones.

There's a couple old threads where people recommend the plastic ones for all cabinets. The I've seen others where then they recommend the metal ones for the cabinet, so.. why I'm asking for a second opinion.

#1491 3 years ago
Quoted from AlexSMendes:

Do you mean legs protectors?

I think? I've seen them listed as cabinet protectors - protecting from the legs - since the legs aren't really damaged by the cabinet.

#1503 3 years ago

Anyone know anyone that has a (generic) switch slot protector? That goes in the small cutout for a switch? (Like: http://bayareaamusements.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=RP-SSLOT )

I need one for under my main ramp drop-off, and can't seem to find anywhere that has one in stock.

#1505 3 years ago
Quoted from RVH:

I recommend one of those on the rocket kicker switch, it lets it operate better when the ball rests on it especially the powerball as it's lighter.

Yup! Already have one there - that's the whole reason I had to have the playfield restored. That area of the playfield was pretty much non-existant. Just haven't been able to find one to fir around the switch cutout yet.

#1507 3 years ago
Quoted from Plumonium:

Order directly from Cliff at Passion for Pinballs.com

Yup, got one on order. Took me a while to find his site - I didn't have it bookmarked, d'oh.

#1516 3 years ago

Does anyone else have a hard-plastic protective top over your main ramp switch? (See below..!) I went ahead and got a new ramp since my old one was really worn, and it does not have the pilot/screw holes for it..

IMG_20160109_144706_(resized).jpg

#1518 3 years ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

Nope, no cover or holes for a cover. Looks like another difference with your early machine.
What is that yellow plastic under it? I have red.

Huh. Well, never would have guessed, if it wasn't for buying a new ramp. Thanks!

That yellow plastic belongs to a Nudge-It. The ramp is out of the TZ. Mine's red over the lock and that whiteblue outline map in the upper right corner.

#1530 3 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

F5 I believe refers to the opto. Switch the opto boards at the flipper buttons and see if the problem either goes away or moves with board.

Oh, no.. Odd numbers are EOS's, the orange/black leads to the switched on the flipper mechs. Even numbers are the optos. The lower numbers are lower flippers, upper numbers are upper flippers.

Quoted from mccorn:

I also love my TZ. It is in my collection since 2013. Green locks and posts with rubbers in the town square.

Nice! But green locks are far too common now. Now all the rage is the green ramp entrance:
Green Ramp Art

And for those of you that to not frequent the main pin forum, here's a (rather short) video of the TZ's Magnet Toss (not just the 'catch'):


(Info here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/present-for-those-curious-tz-magnet-toss)

I'm really really pleased- my TZ's just about finished with the restore.

#1538 3 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

I have watched bowen tutorial. Are there any other good tz videos?..Its prob just me but game just confuses me...Opportunity to get another and if I found a good rules video I would def grab it as I love the shows and the theme.

Honestly, read the rulesheet - you'll be a lot better off:
http://www.ipdb.org/rulesheets/2684/TZBOWEN.HTM

#1541 3 years ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

I was playing last night and noticed something odd, there were two times back to back where I went to battle the power on the upper PF and hitting the flippers did not appear to activate the magnets. But then on the next game they worked fine.
I see that when the ball comes in, it passes under a switch, i assume thats how it knows the ball is in play up there? I will test this further tonight but just putting this out there in case anyone else can chime in.

That's correct - if the ball never activates that switch, the code won't activate the magnets then..

#1565 3 years ago
Quoted from scampcamp:

I have the 9.4CH ROM & was wondering if someone knew how many balls can be used other than the power ball? I remember reading something about being able to have more than the 5 plus the power ball. Thanks

You can put in as many as will fit in the game.

Normal is 6. Originally the game was planned to have 7 (6/1).

1 week later
#1622 3 years ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

Ok, here is a new one (for me at least):
Played a game tonight and the sound seemed strange. When the powerball came out, it clearly recognized it as the DMD animation showed it, but no voice saying "powerball". And normally, when hitting the continue button, it says "Greed" but not this time (it was replaced with another sound, almost if the sound board knew something was up). I thought it was odd so i restarted the machine, it played fine for a while but started doing it again. Then. bam. no sound at all. Restarted it again, then its back to no voices but music plays fine.
I decided, F-it, im just gonna play for a while... a few games later, all sounds are fine.
Any thoughts? If the answer isnt obvious I will open up a thread about it.

Re-burn sound ROM- sounds like the EPROM is getting flaky. (Returning bad addresses, etc..)

#1624 3 years ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

That sounds pretty logical, now that i know to listen for that gong sound (and the number of times it repeats) I will be more aware once I see it again.
I was considering upgrading the speakers and doing the pinsound board anyways, but would prefer not to rush that.

It's the only thing I can think of that fits all possibilities.. The other one being a bad ribbon cable (or noise on said ribbon cable..) - I believe in the other thread - which I don't know why I'm replying here and not there.. - you mentioned changing the cable out.

Try playing a few games with the display and fliptronics board ruibbon cable disconnected. See if the problem still happens. If it does, it's on the audio board and not another board introducing noise into the data channels.

#1636 3 years ago
Quoted from ramegoom:

My first thought is, remove the bulb lighting in the back box and replace it with LED strips - will reduce the total wattage used in the machine and keep those power supplies running cooler. Could even use a fluorescent lamp similar to current production machines.
Anyway, I'm in learning mode, and could use some advice.

Never, EVER use flourescent when you don't HAVE to. The UV given off by those will ruin any and all plastics. There are three different strings of lights in the backbox, in different locations. I think your best bet would just to get frosted LED bulbs and be done with it.

#1647 3 years ago
Quoted from bhwolf:

I have one (both LED and GI) in my ToM (only a few days now) and will likely get one for my TZ. While they are fantastic, the LEDs do still flicker slightly when flippers are hit. Some don't seem to notice it. I think it has to do with the transformer sag and LEDs being more sensitive to fluctuations.

I have both in my TZ, and love them. However - yes, coils draw a lot of power, and depending on the load and game, you'll see flicker no matter what. There's no real 'fix' for it, except to weaken the coils, which.. I'd live with the quick 'dim'. It's a LOT ledss noticeable with LEDs than incandescents, at least with LedOCD. (Never had LEDs in without the OCD.)

#1662 3 years ago
Quoted from wxforecaster:

All, there seem to be a lot more possible combo shots than I'm capable of hitting on my machine. If I hit a ball through the right loop and hold up the upper left flipper, should the ball pass through the "hidden hallway" behind the slot machine? I've never had a single ball do this. If yours does this, could you post a video of this happening, and well as a photo of where your upper left flipper sits in the rest position? I can hit the piano all day, but this flipper definitely does not pass the ball through the hallway. It instead typically hits a greed target.

That's the "clock passage". And it really depends on how fast ball comes around the spiel spiral. I can do it *occasionally* on my game.

That's also how you get the 4-way combo - left rank, right ramp to diverter, thru clock passage, to camera.

#1663 3 years ago

Was packing up my parts, cleaning up after almost finishing the restore, and saw this.. Notice the missing artwork?

I purchased a plastic set shortly after the game was released, and this shows that the plastic shape was changed to remove the upper right magnet, but the art hadn't been touched up yet.

IMG_20160206_092732_(resized).jpg

#1668 3 years ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

The plastic from my 6/93 TZ has the same white area printed on the left side as that one. Two differences I see are that the blue used on mine is much darker (mine looks dark blue, yours looks sky blue), and mine has no part number printed at the bottom.
I assume mine is original, since it is warped and filthy. I got my busted/filthy TZ in a 2-fer deal last summer, so it has been sitting, waiting for the cold weather to start shopping. I spent last night cleaning metal ball guides, and the night before that on subways. I will be putting up high scores in a few more weeks/months.

The one in my game dosen't have the little cutout visible - because it's actually cut out for the opto. Interesting on the color change, though.. I didn't compare this with the one in my game - maybe I should.

2 weeks later
#1720 3 years ago

Hey guys, need your help!

So after reassembling everything on the playfield, due to some differences (TaylorVA's oak rails, playfield getting cleared, etc.), I have this problem, now -
IMG_20160221_202817_(resized).jpg
The ball is getting stuck on the right edge of the right gate.

Here's the catch -
I can fix this easily, by arching the assembly downward (counter clockwise). This moves the right gate more to the right, which then prevents the ball from getting caught like that.
However, the left gate, then, will get caught on the standoff post and get stuck in the 'up' position, which then, well, balls will roll back down to the plunger. D'oh. So, any thoughts on bending the right gate downwards a little is soemthing to do, or.. any other thoughts?

#1751 3 years ago
Quoted from dgoett:

Prototype/Sample sign. No, it's not for sale. It goes with my TZ when/if I ever sell it.

IMAG1175_(resized).jpg

I have one in my game.

1 week later
#1760 3 years ago

Because Ingo requested some pics, I figure I'd share. When I ordered my clock board from him, I got a set of Green LEDs. He was surprised, as he stated I was the only one to ever GET green ones. So, I decided to try them out. Images are below. The brightness was a little too bright in these shots, but the color is a rich green - matches the green 'Lock' insert on sample games.
IMG_20160304_182317_(resized).jpg
IMG_20160304_182307_(resized).jpg

#1766 3 years ago
Quoted from Bowlingpin:

I'm curious about the translights with the stars cut out. Is it similar to the games with the green lock? Is that part of the early production or samples or both?

See here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/price-check-true-tz-sample

#1769 3 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

I fixed the ball launch diverter....that connector does not go to knocker. Good guess as that is what I thought

In your picture, that looks like Violet/Yellow and Violet/Black, in a 3-prong Molex plug.

In my game, that goes to the knocker.

#1771 3 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

There's already a 3 prong going to my knocker. Here is s pic of both wires

image_(resized).jpeg

Well... apparently your game had TWO knockers..

Goooooodnight everybody!

Seriously, where's the other end go?

#1773 3 years ago
Quoted from ramegoom:

What's the deal with every ball being a Power Ball? I set the game to "Factory" and powerball on 1st. ball OFF, yet every ball is the somewhat obnoxious POWER BALL callout including the first ball every time. What am I doing wrong? Or maybe a sensor is out of whack? No error codes.
Anyone?

Your trough proximity sensor is bad or needs to be adjusted. Your slot proximity sensor may also need to be checked.

#1776 3 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

Coyote can you explain how to adjust or fix the prox sensor ? I may need one too

There's not much to adjust - but when a ball is in position #1, the coin of the sensor board should be between 1/8" and 1/16" from the ball. The LED on the control board should light when a METAL (i.e. not Powerball) is in that position.

If it's not, the usual culprit is the connection between the two boards - the cable. The best fix is to disconnect the plugs and solder the wires to each board. However, sometimes twisting the cable tightly and plugging them back in will take care of it.

#1782 3 years ago
Quoted from litz:

Have to add my colordmd pic ... this really, truly, makes the game just POP ...

2016-02-18_20.18.11_(resized).jpg

Well, you surprise me. I figured you'd keep your game like I keep mine - almost no mods, from factory. Seeing you puit in the ColorDMD surprises me..

When are you going to get the shot of the underside for me?

#1788 3 years ago
Quoted from litz:

On my list of things to do ... it's getting a full teardown, cleaning, and re-rubbering.
It's still got the rings on it that it had when it left the Galleria Namco store ...

Serious? Wow.. Tsk tsk.

#1791 3 years ago
Quoted from Luppin:

About adjustment A.2 10, I still have to understand how it works..
1st hard lock: the manual says hard lock is when you have to spell "gum-ball" twice to enable lock. So I understand you have to make twice both the left and right ramps, right? But on my machine it's always enough 1 left + 1 right ramp, even after several multiballs...
Am I missing something?

No - hard lock is when you have to spell "gum" and "ball" for every locked ball.
i.e - once for lock 1, then again for lock 2.

#1817 3 years ago

Well, mt game just entered... The Twilight Zone.

In the middle of a game, it went beserk, and reset.
+12v Digital fuse was blown, and so was coil +50vac fuse.
U20 on the CPU board (switch driver) was blown.

It *sounds* like a coil wire shorted to a switch wire, right?

No - I don't know what caused it, yet - but my lower right flipper power coil now is drawing 5.5a, and after a few flips it will blow the +50v fuse again. So, new coil on order, and new U20 on order. No clue as to what caused this mayhem.

#1820 3 years ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

I assume that means when pressing the flipper button. I have never put a current clamp on one. I wonder what the other flipper measures when flipping.

Well, yeah. When there's no voltage drop, no amperage is drawn.

The other lower flipper power took about 4.1a.
Upper left flipper power took under 3.6a.
Upper right flipper power took about 3.7a.
All holds took between 1 and 1.5a..

So no clue as to what happened, nor if the two issues were even related. Though, I'd be really surprised if they *weren't* related, since it happened all at the same time. Really odd - game played fine for literally a decade without issue.. then I restore it, and this. Heh.

New coils (got two, so I could have a spare, now..) and new driver chips are on the way, so.. this week I'll get it back up and continue diagnosing.

#1823 3 years ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

While waiting for parts you could ring out the all the coil wires to ground, and to each other -
Unplug J902 and J907 from the fliptronic2 board, which totally disconnects the 4 flipper coils.
Measure resistance between a lug of each flipper coil and the cabinet ground and confirm it is open. (no shorts to ground or other components in the harness)
Measure resistance between a lug of each flipper coil to a lug on the the other flipper coils and confirm it is open. Check all 4 that way. (no shorts between coils in the harness)

Good tests, I'll do these tonight after dinner, and see if anything pops out.

I did a thorough visual check of under the playfield, and other than finding a couple loose standup targets, and a few loose solder points on different standup switches, nothing was out of the ordinary. So, it's not like a switch wire got shorted to a coil power lead, as far as I've seen.

#1833 3 years ago