(Topic ID: 63352)

Twilight Zone Owner's club

By Caucasian2Step

6 years ago

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  • 584 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 50 minutes ago by Tranquilize
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Twilight Zone Mini Playfield Protector.pdf (PDF preview)
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twilight zone keyring.pdf (PDF preview)
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Twilight Zone missing plastic CMYK Vector - SPOT Colour Die trace.pdf (PDF preview)
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twilight ball divertor artwork Correct Size.pdf (PDF preview)
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#323 5 years ago
Quoted from Starscream:

Yeah looking further into it I'm not too sure?
The only thing out of the ordinary are the pop bumper plugs, Which are factory,
But no green lock, or white clockface, But the white operating manual threw me for a loop
Serial number is 53320 110361
Made 5/28/93
I thought it was the last 3 digits but I don't think they were built in order like that, I don't believe the next one after mine would be xxx362

I have read that they put the extra posts in with tz when they sent it out to the operator. They let them decide if they wanted to put them in or not .so maybe they were put in and then taken out when put into home use and plugged .

#325 5 years ago

Ok so been reading alot of this thread and looking at pic and will be joining the club Wednesday morning and am very excited. I had a question about the cabinet sides and the differences in how far the color extends .in a few pics above I see that the redish pink goes to the siderails and then others where it only goes half that? So why is this ? Im assuming one is wrong and were bad replacements?

#329 5 years ago
Quoted from dmacy:

Good point Starscream. I wish whoever did the decals on mine got the right ones (was the first thing I noticed wrong when I looked at it), but it's nicer than any others I looked at and for me not worth changing them. I guess over the years there's been all sorts of bad versions of cabinet art, plastics, etc.

So yours are not correct? That machine is so nice ?

#334 5 years ago

Yea that suxbut whatever still a sweet machine

2 weeks later
#369 5 years ago
Quoted from Craig:

I noticed something rather odd on my TZ, and I wonder if anyone else has had this (admittedly, very minor) issue. Every once in a while, the pin will not kick any balls into the shooter lane. Apparently, it is holding too many balls in the gumball machine. If I clear that out and restart, everything works perfectly. It did this only occasionally. (I would then push a ball up manually and eventually make a shot that cleared out the problem.) Perhaps there is a sensor (e.g., in the gumball machine) that isn't working optimally. The trough switches are all working perfectly. Anyway, now that I know the way around it, it's not a big deal, and it has not recurred since I discovered the (at least temporary) fix.

There os a opto in the vulk that shoots ball in gumball machine sounds like it may be acting up probably just needs solder reheated or cleaned ?or could be the switch after the gumball acting up I think it counts the balls also ?

#374 5 years ago

Ok so I wanna put a white face clock in whats the best one? Id also like a new color one or be able to reuse my original but don't you have to scrap it off and use the plastic ? Let me know my options please thax guys

#379 5 years ago

Thats a good idea on ebay may go that route

#383 5 years ago
Quoted from Bumper:

I am not a owner yet but planning to buy one, tomorrow I am going to see one that is for sale.
What are the points specific to the TZ to look for before I buy?

Just the usual stuff you look for when buying a pin . Make sure the clock goes to 12 when u start a game and gumball machine functions properly. Make sure all the magnets work .

#385 5 years ago

I was going to say the slot welds but figured even if they were broken its a easy fix . Either buy a new one or get the original rewelded .

#390 5 years ago

Well first congrats on a great machine .on the diverter I had the sameissue and went and bought a super powerful magnet and put on with a washer inbetween and have been fine since with a occasional bounce out but im happy with the way it is.what magnet did you use? And im not sure if u should have put anything where theball hits theface of the diverter just have that bare .
Ahh the ramp lock ive tried things also but to no avale. Ill have a game where all go in and then have a game when most bounce out very frustrating but its common and due to abad design. I watched papa video where they had5 bounce outs in a row so its common. Hopefully I or someone can figure a fix out because its annoying.
When my auto shooter launches and I miss with the upper left it bounces to the upper right flipper most the time .
Not sure about your sound but something is not right id reseat the ribbon cables and check all connections again

2 weeks later
#417 5 years ago
Quoted from LitzDoc:

When the powerball comes into play you are responsible for shooting it back into the gumball machine via the right sided loop. The powerball is more difficult to keep in play than the metal balls because it is much lighter and smaller. You will get extra points for shooting the ball into the gumball machine when the right loop is lit.

Well actually the power ball is slightly larger than the steel ball

#424 5 years ago
Quoted from LitzDoc:

Hi guys
I love this thread. I made the mistake of selling my nice conditioned TZ about a year ago. I really miss it. I am starting to collect mods in preparation for getting another TZ. CQ this time if I can find it. Anyway where is the best place to buy the Magnet Diverter Mod? I had one for my last TZ but I can't remember where I bought it. I got the piano mod and the sticker mod for the diverter. Any other recommendations for must have mods would be appreciated.

I went to Home Depot and bought a 3 dollar pack of 3 and used 1 of them and haven't had any issues yet.

#428 5 years ago
Quoted from LitzDoc:

Thaks for the tip. I did not know Home Depot sold magnets. What is the namd of them. I will try those magnets first with some double sided tape.


#429 5 years ago

Used one of them with a washer in between and works great

2 months later
#500 5 years ago
Quoted from Chrisg:

Some people asked to see my stainless steel clock hands in my clock.
Here are some basic pics. My machine is still in pieces at the moment, but hopefully this gives you the idea. I am thinking that the next set I try will be polished brass to go with a prototype clock decal.

I also had a go at making some red and blue plastic ones just to see what they looked like:
Also, I agree, cleaning the clock gears and lubricating them is one of the best things I did for my TZ.
When I did it, I set it to 12:00, then took it apart. I marked the teeth that "married" on each gear with a permanent marker so that it was really easy to put back together correctly. I used a WD-40 brand lubricant that was dry PTFE (dry teflon). You don't need much and it won't attract dirt or "go off" after a few months/years.
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Very cool love the stainless ones but all are cool

#510 5 years ago
Quoted from swedishc:

Has anyone tried patching the game roms with the non-ghosting patch? TZ seems to have a pretty major issue with LED ghosting, so before I get the LED OCD board I would rather just patch the roms.
The patch did wonders on my TAF and ToM, but I haven't tried it on my TZ yet.

Depends what rom your running but the home rom has a patch in it and stopped my game from ghosting once installed

#512 5 years ago
Quoted from 2Kaulitz:

Well i just entered the Twilight Zone Now its time to get it up & running

Good luck buddy hopefully its not to bad she can be a pain sometimes

1 month later
#560 4 years ago

I dont think that mini playfield level sticker is anywhere? I have a huo tz and don't see it anywhere?

#563 4 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Really? Huh. I'd originally say that this must have been dropped in production games - HOWEVER, Sample/Prototype Games didn't have adjusting screws..!
You're real close to me. I may have to come up and compare your game to mine.

Yea I have the one for the removal of the mini playfield but nothing for adjusting it? Where do u think it would go? Your welcome to come hang and play and talk pins anytime

#566 4 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Me neither! That's why I asked. I do have a location on the underside of my playfield that is discolored and about in the size of the decal - when I get home tonight I'll get a closer look..
Since the label has an arrow surrounding the text, I figure it had to go somewhere that the arrow pointed to, but that's not really possible since the arrow is pointing to the right (meaning the decal would have to have been on the mini playfield?!)
I'll send you a PM - maybe if/when I do come up to take a look at your games, I'll bring my blue powerball, and see how good you are with it.

Tz is the only game im really good at in my collection lol ive put so many games on it but that blue would be and difficult Givin my leds

2 weeks later
#598 4 years ago

Yea you can get a very nice tz for 5 to 5500 and then a average one for 4500 to 5 but the one in the pics is rough for a tz most are pretty decent as they didn't get played a bunch in the 90s. I would say 4200 at most and if you need sell down the road may be a tough sell because there are so many nice ones.?

1 month later
#631 4 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

I'm in the club as of a week ago. Playfield is in great shape, cab is also in good shape, but has leg wrinkling. I've got new decals for it. Been busy with it, full ct LEDs, added home made car, robot and camera mods, new buy in switch. Came with pinpro speakers, piano mod and lighted gumballs. I believe it's also a sample game, green lock insert, filled holes in bumpers and routed third magnet hole. I'm just dealing with a clock issue, hence the credit dot. Game is every bit as expected.

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Nice pickup looks like itmight just be early playfield but not sample as its missing sample upper playfield and white clockface apparently they had alot of them playfields made but only 200 samples need to check manufacturer date as it may let us know . What is that blue light in the back right I like it and need it lol?maybe just get the ingo clock board its sweet with white face and rgb lights in it

#634 4 years ago

Yea I think u just got the play field because mine is only 20 days later than yours .seems alot of imported tz had them playfields I believe the sampled were months earlier. Unless its a sample repro? Doubt it tho looks original ho about the pop area?I need get some stips was waiting on 6v rgb ones but they didn't work out

#635 4 years ago
Quoted from Hwawonyu:

that looks awesome! CT or pinbulbs? Kit or did you do that LED lighting yourself?

Pinbulbs kit all their kits look the same puple double spots are giveaway

#636 4 years ago
Quoted from Hwawonyu:

that looks awesome! CT or pinbulbs? Kit or did you do that LED lighting yourself?

U locate one yet?

#641 4 years ago
Quoted from Starscream:

Well it looks superb, really tempting me to LED my TZ,
None of my Bally Williams games have LED's, Do they require non ghosting?

Depends on rom but I would go non ghosting

1 week later
#665 4 years ago

I forget all i messed with but first thing was take rubber off the post in middle . Then I slightly bent the launching arm one way or the othef depending what side it was hitting . I haven't had one ball miss the orbit since in 2000 games however the power ball messes up sometimes if its in the mix

#666 4 years ago

Magnet levels wouldnt mess with it as it happens before all that

1 week later
#678 4 years ago

Weren't all tz play fields cleared?

#691 4 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

One of the suppliers has a 'reinforced' version of the target. Unsure how well it works - Back in the mid-90's I put a pivot to a slot-kicker arm behind min, and it worked just fine for the last 15 years at least.

I did something like you said with a metal pop bumper yolk bc its all i had at the time and everything been fine since or you can use thick gauge wire from behind to a screw . There are tons of threads on this subject if people would search lol. I actually dont like the reinforced target there bc it launches the ball when hit and damages all types of shit

#694 4 years ago
Quoted from MK6PIN:

Did a crapload of searching...seems the Mantis scoop is the best fix....best price to find one?

Its a good fix if u need a scoop also? A one dollar (if that )part can fix the issue tho

#697 4 years ago
Quoted from MK6PIN:

My scoop has a nice gouge in it from the ball hitting it for years.....was going to attempt the wire fix, but I really like the metal behind the target....my ramp is ok...I'll clean and try to sell it w the gouge for $20 or something....

Ramp? Lol ill buy your old scoop possibly if the weld isnt broke ?

#698 4 years ago
Quoted from MK6PIN:

The machine is a keeper for me ( players version though, no HEP here) so I don't mind making an improvement...

Yea me to mine is a excellent condition original that was huo supposedly it definitely looks and plays the part its not going anywhere bc doubt id fine another as nice for the price i paid

1 week later
#707 4 years ago
Quoted from PinRob:

Got a neat Camera from Japan. Need to light it up and mount it.image.jpg (Click image to enlarge)image.jpg (Click image to enlarge)

I have the same one its so much nicer than the cheap ones people sell and it matches the one in tz perfect 20150214_135329.jpg

#717 4 years ago
Quoted from 2Kaulitz:

ok guys i need some help/input i got list of parts i need for my tz project. Does anyone habe a clock bracket or gumball up kicker bracket or parts ? Were is best place for parts ? I found the clock bracket but they want 80 from australia

Most of the hard to find parts you have to get from over seas gets expensive quick thats why a project tz can get expensive depending on what it needs

1 month later
#752 4 years ago

When u get a chance put the pop caps in the correct order they sld match up with upper playfield

#757 4 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Ted was quoted (though oddly, I cannot find it at the moment) that the flyer was incorrect.
Regardless, I like arranging them so if you get the skillshot, the corresponding pop bumper is lit. (Yellow - Yellow. Orange - Orange & Yellow, Red - All three). But honestly, you can do it any way you want.

Exactly y wouldn't u want it to match the skill shot is beyond me

#758 4 years ago
Quoted from cheshirefilms:

Check out the original flyer from Bally, that's not actually the case. The yellow always went upper right


Its wrong and sld match the skill shot

1 week later
#795 4 years ago
Quoted from ArcRevival:

Picked up this HUO gem. I don't think it's ever even had a rubber replaced. Ultra clean throughout. No heat damage on pcb's. You could eat off any part of this machine.
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I have one like that also its the gem of my collection nice pickup

3 weeks later
#870 4 years ago
Quoted from SuperPinball:

Both of my flippers on the right side of my TZ occasionally cut out. I looked but my game has no flipper optos and the coils look new. I'm starting to think its the fliptronic 2 board. Has anyone had a similar problem with their machine?

What rom you running? There is also a option for low line voltage which can cause them to cut out if its on .

#873 4 years ago
Quoted from SuperPinball:

I have the latest rom installed, I will look for the low line voltage, but wouldn't it affect both sides?Anyways I will check that, thanks.

I heard of different flippers being effected so not sure

1 week later
#888 4 years ago
Quoted from DefaultGen:

No posts in 2 weeks in the best club, someone buy a CQ machine and post pics to drool over or something. I'm cleaning really dirty inserts, feels so good.

image.jpg (Click image to enlarge)

I can do that for you20140714_012054.jpg20140714_011536.jpg20140714_011356.jpg20140714_012203.jpg20140714_010146.jpg

#890 4 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Here's a pic, and a test for folks -
Can you find the one insert that's not correct, or has something wrong to it?
57_G.jpg (Click image to enlarge)
..It shouldn't be TOO hard.. And it's not the Lock - that's green.

Yea the pic is hard to really tell anything but the shoot again maybe?

#906 4 years ago
Quoted from DefaultGen:

Alright I've reinstalled my clock and it's not working. This is the first time I've powered the machine on since I bought it two months ago so there's a chance I messed up something else. I checked and reseated the 3 connectors and the connection to the motor, I also reseated the 2 clock connectors. When the game boots up the clock power and 3 LED are lit. When I run clock test, the diagnostic LEDs are on but they're flickering, I'm not sure if that's normal. The optos do appear to work, although the game is reporting them all as closed.
I still need to mess with it, I'm about to swap my RottenDog board back in and see what happens, but I figured you guys have all gone through clock problems.
» YouTube video

Private video

#908 4 years ago
Quoted from DefaultGen:

Fixed (the video anyway)
» YouTube video
I tried my RD board, 6 of the 8 optos register in the game, the 15 and 45 optos are stuck on. The motor still doesn't work though. Bleh, troubleshooting time... after a nap.

The motor is a separate wire coming off the back you sure its plugged in ? If so make sure where its plugged in is getting power

#917 4 years ago

Shorts out or resets?

1 week later
#948 4 years ago

Mine have springs

1 week later
#990 4 years ago
Quoted from MiamiRedSkin:

Picked up a nice TZ that has been in a basement since "early 90's" from the owner and I believe it! I have missed TZ ever since I sold my old one. Pictures are before cleaning it up!

Very nice reminds me of mine that was found in a basement basically un played for 20 years. All original paperwork and goodie bag and the cleanest cabinet of any 90s pin ive ever seen. Nice find mines never leaving bc its so nice

#991 4 years ago
Quoted from MrBellMan:

Installed my ColorDMD yesterday and it looks incredible with the white display!

Agreed have had mine for 6 months love it

2 months later
#1200 4 years ago

I've Prob asked this before but doing this over the weekemd. Adding remote battery holder to friends tz. Where behind the existing holder do I solder wire leads. Done this on several pins but wasn't sure best spot to solder in

Here you go billsfan


1 week later
#1232 4 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Nice game - it's a later sample, since you have the production colors in front of the left ramp, but have the white door on the backbox.

It probably was re decal with the white door ?

#1234 4 years ago

Really? I seen them before on a restoration? Just bc they weren't available from a licensee do t mean they cant be had

2 months later
#1438 4 years ago


3 weeks later
1 month later
#1609 3 years ago
Quoted from scampcamp:

I'm thinking about splurging on the TV mod for TZ. Have any of you installed it? Please let me/us know your thoughts. Is it worth $180? (Not friends or relatives of seller)

Yep I have it and its awesome and people are so amazed when they see it.

#1610 3 years ago
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:

This was a LCD mod that was 100% WORTH the money.
Thanks PinballMikeD, it was impressive work, and $600 when it was available.
It smoked the TZ TV mod like cheap cigar.
CFTBL Hologram MOD:
» YouTube video

Have this also and its awesome. The video tz tv is awesome also and really cool in attract mode with the sound and full episodes

1 month later
#1726 3 years ago
Quoted from Bigbossfan:

Hello fellow TZ owners. Hoping to get some help. Had something go wrong when trying to install my color DMD. Eventually got the problem sorted out, DMD is working fine now. But now the pin itself is not working properly.
So, when I turn the pin on, even before it has a chance to boot, all coils immediately fire, including ejecting a ball from the trough. Game continues to boot and all is good. Also, now it says the clock is broken in error message. The clock was working 100% before attempting to install the ColorDMD.
Subsequently I disabled the clock in the settings. The pin plays absolutely fine, with the exception of the two above noted issues. Naturally I want to get the pin back to 100%.
Any suggestions? Many thanks in advance.

One of the chips on the driver board or cpu is likely damaged . Did you hook up some wires wrong ?

1 week later
#1755 3 years ago

That tz wld fit in say a club 54? Lol

1 week later
#1806 3 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

Anyone know where to get the flipper board. Out of stock everywhere

Alot of times the opto just needs reheated on the flipper board.... ive fixed multiple opto board's from doing this.

1 month later
#2012 3 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

what lights are you guys using in the piano mod (red and yellow) - def wedge fit but are you using led covers or frosted? Do frosted non ghost fit? Going to replace mine soon.
also - what lights do I get for the flashers in the backboard? I bought 906 flasher wedge but they don't flash when installed....

Tz dont have flashers in the backbox...it uses six 545 blinkers

#2038 3 years ago
Quoted from ramegoom:

Have a question. I am looking for a stock cabinet woofer for my TZ, seems the original speaker paper is shredded. Just want to replace it with the standard woofer.
Who carries these, or does anyone have one to sell?


#2039 3 years ago
Quoted from ramegoom:

Have a question. I am looking for a stock cabinet woofer for my TZ, seems the original speaker paper is shredded. Just want to replace it with the standard woofer.
Who carries these, or does anyone have one to sell?

Or you can search for a similar but better speaker with Google and it will probably be cheaper

1 month later
#2181 3 years ago
Quoted from scampcamp:

What is your favorite TZ custom instruction card & where did you get it? Show pictures.

Me to20160605_230713.jpg

#2193 3 years ago
Quoted from scampcamp:

In the Cointaker led instalation guide it says to use a 555 warm super here but when i do the all flasher test... it flashes. Should a 906 flasher go there??

Yes its a flasher for sure

#2202 3 years ago
Quoted from vilant:

Hi all, just became part of the club a few days ago. Have been ironing out some issues and I've got it working 100% except for the clock. Looks like the 12 o'clock opto is not registering when the minute hand spins when it's in test mode. Is the opto replaceable? Where can I find the parts to repair the clock?
P.S. I'm absolutely loving the game, so much fun

Best bet is to spend a little extra and get the bulletproof ingo k clock board... its basically a must for any tz owner and will save many headaches down the road

#2213 3 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

How in the hell is this even a mod? Or even related to the show?
ebay.com link

Wow I have the same cannon that I paid 2 bucks for ....I'll have to add a led and sell it for 45.00. I bought a bunch of those diecast toys once but necer used them . I may just add some lights and sell them for cheap.

#2217 3 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Sitting on a mint! Especially if it can be doubled as a mod for CC or MM, too.

Yea apparently im in the wrong business..... I work all week mowing/weed eating 30-35 customers just to make 700-800 a week. Maybe i sld be making mods ftom the comfort of home lol. I actually enjoy doing lawn care and it's great exercise

#2218 3 years ago
Quoted from AlexSMendes:

The cannon would look good on a AC/DC.

One cannon is enough imo

1 month later
#2389 3 years ago

That video is a joke right? Making fun of all the mods for tz ?

1 week later
#2435 3 years ago
Quoted from Jimmyapple:

i switched my flipper opts boards with no change in weak left flipper. I'm confused because they are the stronger 11629's. Should I take those to the recommended mid strength coils? Don't know why I would be having a problem with weakness if they're the stronger coils unless it's causing the game to malfunction. Any help would be great.

Flippers probably need rebuilt with everything minus coils and flipper bats. If its as dirty as you say they probably haven't been done in forever and are probably really worn

#2436 3 years ago

Take some pics of the coils and hardware for us and maybe we can spot a issue

#2440 3 years ago
Quoted from Seatmandan:

you have two flipper return springs on there. the smaller one is the correct one, but the larger one is from an older type of flipper assembly. 2 springs = double the resistance when the flipper is actuated. this could be contributing to the weakness. Remove the larger spring around the coil shaft. Keep the smaller one connected between the "wing" and the EOS bracket

EDIT: Also, I read on Pinside here somewhere that there are different length coil stops. not sure if this applies to this game, but may contribute to the problem

Yep extra spring definitely isnt helping lol. Tz uses the larger coil stops compared to games after it .

1 week later
#2504 3 years ago
Quoted from wizard_mode:

Well, I'm in! Looking forward to the fun! So far the machine plays and looks awesome! The only issue I can find is switch 2 (lower right) on the power field does not spring back open for some reason. Not sure if these switches can be cleaned in any way. I'm thinking of eventually getting the power field switch mod at some point so I guess that would take care of the issue. Either way, I'm very stoked to have my favorite machine ever in my home!

Just loosen the rubber a little.

2 weeks later
#2619 3 years ago

I highly recommend crazymuffins tz tv . Has full episodes and u can have sound during attract mode. When people come over they can't believe i have a little working tv inside the pin lol

#2631 3 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

I hate games that have LEDs and do NOT have the OCD. The harsh on/off hirts the eyes and distracts from light shows.
I recommend both, though the GI offers less noticeable results. (Without it, you won't see any GI dimming, or will see flickering of the LEDs when the GI is dimmer.)

Its funny bc alot of people including myself it dont bother . Guess im lucky?.

#2636 3 years ago

All my tz mp inserts look like different color's. As do my pop caps

#2684 3 years ago
Quoted from per3per3:

I'm hoping someone can help me out that has replaced their TZ translite. I just received and installed a new one that I bought from Little Shop of Games but they source through Planetary Pinball Supply...so it's a next gen which I was assured is just as good if not better (richer colors) than the original. Anyways, I turn the machine on and I can basically see almost every individual LED bulb shine through the translite...it doesn't look good at all. The new translite's backing almost seems translucent and it doesn't look good at all. I'm using normal one LED non-ghosting bulbs from cointaker, so it's not like I'm using ultra brights or anything out of the ordinary for backbox illumination.
Does anyone else have a next gen/PPS replacement translite and is yours like this?
Is there another supplier and is the product better?
P.S. It's significantly more noticeable in person vs. in the pics

Unfortunately ive found this to be the case with many after market tranlights.....

#2685 3 years ago
Quoted from d0n:

It arrived today. It can play music and show pictures too. It powers with a iphone like USB charger 110V. I will plug this into a remote controlled ZAP outlet to turn it off and on. The only issue with this TV is that upon start up it ALWAYS starts on the main menu. You then must toggle to the videos and hit the play button. This means that you'd have to slide your PF glass down just enough to access to the TV each time your turned on the game. A pain in the butt yea... but it's only $95, stores 45 episodes and has sound. It plays color TV too.
In the pics, I had not yet mounted the rabbit ears.

Ugh thats annoying .... u sld get the one that the guy(crazymuffin) here on the forum makes that does all that and uses a raspberry cpu , it plugs to the pin voltage and goes on and off with the pin. It will all b able to be game play interactive eventually.

#2686 3 years ago
Quoted from d0n:

It arrived today. It can play music and show pictures too. It powers with a iphone like USB charger 110V. I will plug this into a remote controlled ZAP outlet to turn it off and on. The only issue with this TV is that upon start up it ALWAYS starts on the main menu. You then must toggle to the videos and hit the play button. This means that you'd have to slide your PF glass down just enough to access to the TV each time your turned on the game. A pain in the butt yea... but it's only $95, stores 45 episodes and has sound. It plays color TV too.
In the pics, I had not yet mounted the rabbit ears.

It sld have a remote according to the website so u dont have to open glass up everytime?

1 month later
#2822 3 years ago
Quoted from sacredgaming:

I just picked up what I feel is a pretty nice TZ. It was purchased by an older couple who, from the looks of it rarely ever played it. When they passed away, their kids left it for the new owner. Thankfully he wasn't a pinball guy. So 1100 miles and 4k later here it sits.
Im super excited to get it back to where it needs to be. The machine is not modded at all and looks completely original.
I do have a few questions about best practice that I was hoping for clarity on. So please feel free to chime in, the help is appreciated.
First Glance (what doesn't work),
The ball diverter does not appear to work properly, meaning that it looks like it is out of alignment.
There is a clock error, though the clock moves so it may just be cleaning
Upper right flipper is not working
DMD appears to have a ghosting effect (video attached)
Apart from general maintenance i.e flipper rebuild, ring kit, deep cleaning, and wax, what is recommended?
I have read a lot about bridge rectifiers, rebuilding of the high voltage section. Is this stuff needed? ( i am capable of doing it if so )
The DMD ghosting... I have read that there could be a loose chip on the CPU board. I have re-seated all connectors and pushed in all socketed chips. I have not removed and reinserted to be fair.
The playfield looks really solid. The only blemish is on the left in-lane around the switch, it is not near as bad as it looks in the pic but I am curious how to restore it or at least protect it from further damage.
Ghosting Video - » YouTube video
Without further delay She is a dirty girl but, looks to be in great shape.

Your probley gonna need a new dmd from what it looks like and others ive seen doing the same thing id just put a color one in it. Also put a cliffy switch protector at the switch where it comes off ramp/wireform. Id also recommend a ingo clock put as that usually eliminates most clock issues. My friend was gonna get that tz that u bought from west virginia .

1 week later
#2841 3 years ago
Quoted from wizard_mode:

The backglass picture has silver balls while the stock gumball machine is empty? How does that match? Are you thinking of adding silver ball bearings to the gumball machine so it matches the backglass pic?

I did and looks good... have bunch extra also

#2882 3 years ago
Quoted from AlexSMendes:

I wouldn't recommend them... overall quality of their products is very poor...

Actually they are great quality ...at least the ones i have and seen

#2908 3 years ago
Quoted from sparechange1974:

So I just picked up a beautiful restored TZ. The game and system are completely foreign to me and I'm having some trouble. Much of this stuff may well be above my skill level, but I'd like to figure it out with some help if it's something simple.
I've got white lines on my color DMD and no background music. It was working fine and then I was playing and the game or at least the screen seemed to locked. I turned it off, then on again and now I have white lines on the DMD and no music, but I do have basic sounds. I don't recall if I lifted up the playfield before or after it happened. This is the first night in my home and it had a long trip and likely rough ride to get here.
I found this lose wire in the back box. Does anyone know what or where it is supposed to go and if it might be the cause of my DMD issue. Lastly, to give a bit more back ground I've had some sound cutouts at high volume, so I'm not sure if that was the first sign of something going bad or its just something that got knocked lose.

Do not use that connector, that will damage things bc its high voltage. Make sure all the ribbon cables are seated tight.

#2910 3 years ago
Quoted from sparechange1974:

Was just about to give up, but I rechecked the cables again and found some with a little wiggle room. Turned game on and now sound and DMD are back on. Can anyone help me with what area/board/ribbon I should be checking if it happens again. Not sure what connection would control DMD and background music.

Was probably the very top ribbon cable.....glad its better now.

1 week later
#2969 3 years ago
Quoted from alistaircg:

Sorry for this, but what is binding of the plunger ? how is the top part of the kicker suposed to look mine looks rather "slim"

Rocket kicker is basically a modified slingshot arm but i believe its hard to find . Yours looks ok but that divot is probably causing a issue and you sld get a cliffy on it asap

#2971 3 years ago
Quoted from lyonsden:

Marcos has them: http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-16714
They were a standard kicker arm on early TZs, which tended to drive the ball into the switch slot causing excessive wear. Definitely replace with this one and get a cliffy to protect the rocket switch slot: http://www.passionforpinball.com/tz.htm

Good to know bc when i needed one they were impossible to find.

2 months later
#3189 2 years ago
Quoted from LitzDoc:

I am trying to find the 2 opto boards that run the 2 magnet optos in the right spiral. Would one of the ones below be the right one. I have been told they are not in the back box.
I have a pic below. Are one of those boards the opto board? 2 options; the triangle board below the piano subway or the rectangular board with the 2 copper wire coils?)
Thanks very much.

Someone may have added the 3rd magnet and kit to your tz by the looks of it....

1 month later
#3459 2 years ago

Standard legs and casters , 28.5 all way around on mine... game is a 7.0 and still have lots room to move mine higher if i want. Im usiing the lowest set of holes all way around ...

#3461 2 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Thanks for the measurements!
Since there are only three holes, and the legs use two, you will ALWAYS be using the 'middle' hole. It is whether the other bolt is in the top or lower hole.

Was editing but u were to fast lol....

#3472 2 years ago

Pincabs protectors are fine on screenprinted cabs ....just not good for re decaled ones.

#3518 2 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Ok, good to hear. I have those metal ones on my machine now, but was just checking to see if there were other better options.
Are the metal ones better than PinCabs?

Pincabs are fine on original screen printed cabs and also help cover up prior damage from having no protectors.

#3519 2 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Curious to know what slant you guys have your machine at?
I'm at about 6.5-6.6 degrees right now, and the game feels pretty fast.

7.0 on mine and plays well ....

#3522 2 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

So, PinCabs vs. Metal protectors?

Well since you have prior damage and metal ones on allready u can still install pincabs to cover damaged area if u care

#3523 2 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Do you have the levellers cranked up to the max in the back?

Nope about half way.... ill probably raise it a little more here soon to around 7.5

#3576 2 years ago
Quoted from nosro:

It might be a matter of setup, also.
I have my left outlane post set to the narrowest point and have fresh rubbers. I also have very rare drains from the pop bumpers. More often, I have balls bounce like this:

Many tz's dont have the pop area closed off like in your pic....

#3618 2 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Should my flipper be moved down more?

Toothpick in the hole for the correct position .......

1 week later
#3782 2 years ago

Always recommend keeping the screen printed cab art whenever possible.... its just better.

#3802 2 years ago
Quoted from Maken:

Hmm... you sure about that?

Quoted from Lermods:

I'm sure coyote will chime in, but I thought all were decals. Mine is from June 93 and it's decaled.

They are Screen printed cabs..... all were except mb and cc..... there were a few mb with sp tho. Screen printed cabs are much more durable and overall just better for many reasons.

2 weeks later
#4022 2 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

For me, it bounces off the diverted and falls off the wire rails, usually slamming down on the PF

I made a magnet mod that fixed that issue on mine....

#4031 2 years ago
Quoted from crwjumper:

I just got a Pinball Pimp Twilight zone - his personal machine. It took me quite a bit of convincing to get him to sell it. What an awesome job Jeff did on the restore. It's amazing! He did a complete tear-down restore with a cabinet paint and decals. He used piano-black on the head and really spiffed it up a treat. He had all of the armor powder coated in black and used it as a test bed for his decals. This thing looks and plays like new.

New decals? Looks pretty faded to me?

#4032 2 years ago

Heres my huo cab.....20170505_020157 (resized).jpg

#4072 2 years ago
Quoted from crwjumper:

Thanks! Yes it's the LED set to large dots.

You cant change the led display to anything other than just dots. If its a lcd u can do all kinds of neat things.....

#4073 2 years ago
Quoted from crwjumper:

Yeah I didn't notice that. It is a little strange. It must be the rom version. It's version L-4. I have the newest version on its way. I just got the pin a little over a week ago and have been getting it dialed in. Minor adjustments, some leds, replacing busted switches and as you can see in my earlier posts going a little nuts chasing gremlins. But I guess that fits with the TZ theme.

Thought it was just restored ?

2 months later
#4539 2 years ago

Ingo board is the best functioning board on the market in most peoples opinion.....

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