Does anyone know someone making custom mini-playfield replacement lamps in the US? Something similar to these: https://www.pinballdecals.com/TwilightZoneLampPage.html

I'm being quoted $180 for this mod (shipping is being quoted at $25!) and I'm having a hard time justifying the costs. I'm not seeing many alternatives out there so figured I'd throw it out to the group! Any help is appreciated as always!

I have seen that option but it doesn't include the lamps or wiring, so how difficult was the install? I like the idea of a more "plug and play" solution but I also recognize this may be one where the extra effort could be worth the $ saved.

where can I order this awesome spiral mod?!

Can you tell me a bit more about how you disassembled the previous lamp? Specifically, how you cut the rivets out?

I have a spare lamp that cans with the game so I’m not really worried about breaking it so long as I can keep the lighting assembly intact. Appreciate the help!

Does anyone have any leads on where one might find a blue clock housing for sale?!

I recently purchased a TZ and overall the game plays pretty great, but the more games I've put in the more often I've had an issue come up with the ball getting hung up in the piano trough. Every time it gets stuck its just resting on the inside right hand side of the trough and I have to take the glass down and nudge it into the hole (the game can't find it otherwise). It's tough to get a pic of but I did my best to capture what's going on. Still, I have no idea how to correct this issue, any thoughts?!

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If anyone has a need for a replacement mini-playfied lamp shoot me a message. I have a spare to part with. It is the standard stock model with bulb lights. Everything is still fully assembled and would be a simple plug n' play solution.

For anyone that has added Comet's Upper Playfield lighting kit for the post lights, can you please explain to me how you installed the lights and wired these things together? The instructions provided are pretty vague and I can't find any videos online. I have the mini playfield removed but haven't started disassembling anything beyond that. Appreciate the help as always!

I recently added a lighted speaker kit to my machine but it seems I have to many mods hooked up on the board as I keep blowing fuses now. In addition to the speaker lights, I have a color display and the gumball dazzler kit all getting power from the same board, so I’m guessing it’s just pulling too much power. I removed the dazzler light kit off one of the outlets and everything seems to be working fine now. Does anyone know if I can pull power from somewhere else for the gumball lights or am I shit outta luck?

I’d rather have the speaker lights lit if I had to choose between the two but figured I’d at least throw it out there in case someone here has had a similar situation. Right now I have the color display linked to J116 and the speaker lights are on J 117.

Help: need some inspiration! Has anyone done anything especially cool with the Gumball machine besides the common lighting (dazzler or otherwise) or the colored marbles? I can’t put a lighting kit in mine due to already having too many powered mods but I’d still like to do something cool in that space. Here’s a quick pic of my setup, but admittedly it’s not the best photo. Still, any ideas would be great!

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The pachinko balls certainly look better IMO. Again, I can’t add the lights anymore but this could be an option.

BTW, if anyone wants to buy my old Dazzler kit I posted it for sale here: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/111285

Curious, has anyone ordered a new clock board from Ingo recently? I want to order one but I have some questions on the color options listed in his ad, but I've gotten zero response from him on either from his website or from his ads on here. Just want to make sure he's still making them.

Sucks to hear, I was really hoping to order one. I guess if anyone's looking to sell their Ingo board instead let me know!

Well it doesn't seem that Ingo is producing his LED clock boards any longer (at least he's not responding to any messages claiming otherwise) so I'm curious if anyone's had positive experiences with other boards besides his? I see this one on Marco's website: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/CLK001P

My board actually works fine but the illumination is pretty minimal, so brightening things up is my biggest priority. Any recommendations?

I appreciate it. I emailed him directly from the website and sent him two messages from here. I'm not trying to hound the guy but I'm also in no mad rush. If I haven't heard back from him in a week, the Marco board seems like a solid option.

Hoping you folks can help me troubleshoot an issue...I recently tried replacing my Rottendog clock board for the LED board on Marco's site (listed below) and couldn't get the thing to work. The Rottendog board was still working like a champ but I wanted a brighter clock face. So while the new one lit up beautiful, the damn time was never correct and I kept getting the dreaded "clock is broken" error message. I ran a test and none of the optos were registering, so after multiple tries I gave up and decided to throw the old board back in.

Now the optos all work (no error message) but the time continuously sets at 6 o'clock, not 12. I've taken it apart and tried manually changing the gear position so the hour hand would be at 12, but when you turn the game on it keeps going back to 6!

I'm cool with sending the new board back if I have to, but does anyone have any suggestions for how I can get the time back to normal using the original board?!

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/CLK001P

Shit, well now I feel like a dummy! Yep, hour hand was upside down. Obviously, i've been staring at this thing for too long tonight! Got the old board working again at least but I guess I'll reach out to Marco to see if they can send a replacement. I gotta feeling though this may be a reoccurring issue.

Can you explain to me where you placed the spacer and what size spacer you may have use? I've troubleshooted this a bit more and the problem is most definitely the fact that the gear as moving slightly out of position after a few rotations, so if I could get them to stay in place it should do the trick.

It's a clever idea! You said it held up for "hundreds of games" so is it safe to assume that it eventually failed and you just glued it back on?

I'm definitely going to give this a try then! Do you know what you used as the spacer? I don't have any clear posts lying around so I'm going to have to buy something, but if you happen to remember what you used (and the size!) that would be fucking awesome!

Thanks so much for the advice! I found something that worked, it’s not perfect but definitely helped identify the problem/solution. I ordered a new clock face cover so I can make a new version that’s cleaner and adjusts the issues with my first go around. The original cover wasn’t looking too hot anyways, so it was a good excuse to buy a new one! Thanks again, this forum is a life saver!

Does anyone here have the lighted apron kit hooked up to their machine? If so, where are you pulling power from to light the apron?

I have someone that's willing to sell me their kit but he never installed it and can't tell me how to hook it up. I have a bunch of mods already pulling power from the driver board on my machine and need to make sure this thing doesn't hook up there.

Any help would be appreciated, thanks!

Damn, yzfguy you should be getting paid royalties for this fix by now! As someone that's greatly benefited from this mod, I can 100% vouch for its validity! The post he used is by far the best fix I've found as well; however, I will tell you it took me 2 different tries to get it right and not mess up the clear plastic cover by accidentally smearing the glue. It dries really quick and I couldn't remove the excess glue, which resulted in a rather distracting mess. Thankfully the covers are only $5 and the posts are only a few cents, so I ordered a few expecting I'd fuck it up! Just take your time and I'm sure you'll be happy with the end result!

I reached out multiple times to no avail. By all accounts that I've heard, he is in fact done but without speaking to the man himself it's all hearsay at this point.

It’s not for everyone but I love the look of the full spiral treatment!

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I’m sure someone’s run into this before, but my upper left flipper is stuck open. Bottom left works as it should but the upper one is stuck. It goes back down when the ball drains but as soon as you launch a new one it automatically flips up and stays there. Any thoughts?!

I added pachinko balls to mine to give it a similar effect. Looks pretty cool and mimics the backglass to an extent. Takes a lot of balls though, like 60-70 total.

It ain’t metal and it’s not as nice as the one on eBay, but I made this bad boy for $20 or less. To me, couldn’t justify $200 for what is basically an over priced Christmas ornament, which so happens to be the same thing I used here!

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Does anyone have any suggested troubleshooting for the diverter gate not resetting? It works fine for a few balls but eventually it’ll get stuck open and the game will proceed with auto-launching everything after that. The gate arm seems to swing pretty freely when I test it manually and continuously snaps back in place, so not sure why it’d be getting stuck mid-game. Any thoughts would be appreciated!

I was able to get the gate to move back to its original position in test mode, but the gate won't open after that. Does that mean the coil is likely bad?! I checked the wires and everything seems intact, so not sure what else could be the issue.

Yeah, I can’t get it to open in the test mode. It was opened already when I tested it and could get it to close, but unable to get it to open again after that in the test mode. I played a game after that though and after a ball or two it got stuck open again. I suspect that means it’s a faulty coil?

In case anyone is looking for a new clock housing…

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/127028

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Sure does! Super interested to see how this plays out, I can’t imagine the clock even fitting back in at that angle?!

I'm giving consideration to adding 86 Pixels' interactive backboard mod to my machine, but I can not use the service outlet as their install instructions advise. I got a lot of bells and whistles on my machine as it-is and I'm sure this thing would tip the scales to blowing some fuses if I followed their instructions!

Realistically, I'd need to find an alternative power source and don't want to plug it externally if at all possible. What are you guys using to power multiple mods on your games?

So I actually have a power strip/surge protector plugged into the service outlet already that is powering a few mods already. Nothing major just the lights from the pop bumper mods and the lighting for my apron mod. I could plug this into that as well but again I was just concerned that it may pull too much juice and end up messing things up. Doesn't seem like that would be the case though based on what you've mentioned here.

By any chance, does anyone here happen to know if Chuck Norris (no, not that Chuck Norris!) formerly of Lighted Pinball Mods is on Pinside?!

I'm looking to reach out to him regarding a the plasma pop bumpers he designed during his time there in the hopes he can help me troubleshoot an issue I'm having with mine. Seems like he attended a number of pinball events/trade shows, so figured someone here may know him.

I reached out to the Lighted Pinball team as well but they said they can't help since Chuck was the knowledge holder on this particular project and they no longer are selling these mods. I posted an ad on the marketplace too in case it may help to track him down. Appreciate any help you can provide!!

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/129567

So I have a few extra TZ parts I’m going to list for sale but figured I’d share them here first in case anyone’s interested:

First, is a prototype spiral sign that was replaced by the gumball sign in today’s version. This piece has the original sign and hardware all in tact, so it should make a nice addition for anyone trying to restore a prototype game! If I’m off on the pricing, feel free to make an offer.

Price: $150

Also, I have an extra mini playfield lamp with all the appropriate lamps and wiring attached. I put an extra flasher bulb in it as well. Just add some smaller bulbs and it’s good to go. It’s brushed aluminum and does have some wear but can certainly be polished up to be a solid replacement part. Again, feel free to make an offer.

Price: $100

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I’ve been wondering about this as well. Think we can persuade you to post a vid of your translight? I’d be curious to see how it looks with the lighting behind it.

Thanks for sharing, I’m Not sold by the video and still have a hard time justifying the expense based on what I’ve seen, so I appreciate the honesty! I’m going to hope I can see one in-person before I make my final call.

Does anyone here have a need for a replacement backboard? I recently added the 86 Pixels interactive backboard to my game and do not have need of the original. Would come with the hooks that are on the back as well. In pretty decent shape. I had a decal on it for the majority of time that I've owned it, but have since removed it. Still pretty shiny and would make for a good replacement part. If anyone's interested shoot me a DM and make an offer!

Obviously just my personal opinion, but I would've placed the robot in front of the sign. Seems like that's really the coolest element of the topper so why hide it?!

I have these exact same ones in my GnR and can absolutely vouch for their quality and I agree the slightly dimmed effect would work well for TZ. I’d have the same clearance concerns as previously mentioned but if others have installed them then I’d certainly say go with the black over the regular mirror polish version.

These folks won’t ship to the states unfortunately. There was a group where someone had setup a group buy scenario and would ship items to you from Pinball Center but he got burned one too many times on shipping issues and called it quits. It’s a bummer too because this place carries some very cool, one of a kind type items!

Would love to see it! I saw these for sale as a mod a long time ago but they were already discontinued at that point. Would still love to find a way to get one in there!

I recently replaced my flippers but the mini flipper I got sent is slightly larger than the stock version that came in the game. It fits the space so I’m sure it’ll work fine mechanically speaking, but it does slightly cover up the camera shot more now when the flipper is in the resting position. Would you be concerned with this effecting gameplay? Is there a more appropriate size flipper I should get instead?

very very cool!! I’m assuming you went with this version because it was 5V? I’m going to try to recreate this but I want to find a sphere that doesn’t have the XMas theme in it.

After adjusting my new flippers, I went into test mode and tested them out. Everything worked fine but the right flipper hold test didn’t move anything. I can hear it trying to fire but the flipper doesn’t move. Weird thing is, it operates just fine during gameplay! Is this anything to be concerned about?!

Awesome! So if the flipper does go up by itself during the hold test, is that a problem?!

Last question, but the upper right flipper keeps moving out of position after a few test flips. I’ve tightened it down as good as I can but to no avail, how tight do these things need to be to stay put?!

I recently purchased a pinsound board and now I’m getting all sorts of switch errors when I turn the game on. Not sure why exactly this would happen but I know all sorts of things can get wonky when you put too much stress on the power board!

I’m guessing this addition on top of the other mods I have is just too much for the game to handle on its own, so I’m going to add an auxiliary power supply to hopefully ease some of the stress on the board.

Does anyone have any experience with The dual voltage supply offered on Arcade Upkeeps site?

https://www.arcadeupkeep.com/shop/dual-voltage-mod-power-supply-system/

It’s a good idea. Honestly, I needed to get things moved off the power board for a while now anyways so this issue gave me the nudge I needed to finally get the motivation to tackle it! Still, it would be smart to at least test things without the pinsound power connected and see if things clear up. It was running perfectly before making the board switch so can’t imagine it being anything else, but I guess we’ll find out!

My buddy and I are in the process of launching our new mod business and have decided the next product we’re going to launch will be a topper for Twilight Zone! This forum has been a huge help and source of inspiration for me personally and would love to include some current owners thoughts in the design process. If anyone here is interested in assisting with the conception of what is sure to be an epic build please shoot me a message! If others just want to share their thoughts on what they’ve always wanted to see on top of your games post it here and we’ll be sure to take it into consideration. There’s no bad ideas, only what can be done within the legal IP constraints. Thanks!!

If anyone is interested in a new sound board, I'll be posting this one for sale soon. Came out of my TZ (obviously!) and works perfectly. Extremely clean! Shoot me a note if you're interested and we'll see if we can make a deal!

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What even is this?! Don’t know that I’ve ever seen this kit!

I recently installed both these kits. The shaker is really cool but so far I’ve been a bit disappointed with the sound packages. You also have to upgrade the speakers to stereo sound to use the new kit, if you don’t you’ll have to turn up the volume really loud to hear anything. I wasn’t aware of this fact when I purchased the kit so that was a little annoying but not a hard fix once the parts arrived. All said and done I’m still using the original sound package so not sure it’s 100% worth it but I’m still keeping my fingers crossed hoping someone will design a new package that changes my mind.

New paint job came out very nice!

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Had to relevel my game and curious what pitch level do most of you have this game set to?!

Exactly why I’m asking! I have the back legs cranked very high and I’m not close to 6.5. Can’t be right. Definitely don’t like the way it’s playing either so it’s gotta come down no matter what.

Shit. That’s a really good point. I’ll double check that as well.

I’m assuming the front legs should be in the same bottom holes too, correct?

Personally, I love them on this title, but admittedly I'm a fan of the product in-general and can understand other's reluctancy to adopt them. Here's 2 pics, one with the overhead lights turned off and one with them turned on. I like to play in a dark room but if you were really concerned with these lights washing out the original colors you can always turn on the overhead lighting to brighten things back up.

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This is my exact thinking as well! I love the clean look but what would you do if you ever needed to remove the bolts that are now hidden behind the Radcal?!

Lately my game has been awarding the powerball without launching the ceramic ball. Sometimes it happens after a ball has been locked, other times it’s when first launching a ball. Figured it’d likely be the opto sensor in the launch lane but that wouldn’t explain the issues mid-ball when it happens at the slot machine or the like. Any ideas how to test this?

Boxes within boxes!! Wait til you see the actual topper packaging itself

If you'd even be willing to share the file for the cutout, my partner and I may be able to do a small run of these for folks if there's enough interest. Personally, I'd be interested in making one but maybe using a different color plastic!

Experiencing a few issues that I'm hoping the group may be able to assist with. First, my diverter gate near in the ball trough area keeps getting stuck open so the balls keep auto-launching instead of allowing me to manually plunge. The gate itself moves freely when I test it by hand, but after a ball or two will inevitably just stay open. Any ideas how I can possibly get it back to normal?

Also, I'm now getting random powerballs, even when the ceramic ball isn't in play. I believe there are 2 or more sensors that check to see what ball is in play but I have no idea where those are or how to really test them to see which one could be messing up?

Any thoughts the group can provide would be awesome, thanks!

Good to know. Is this something that can be repaired or do you need to replace the board itself? I’ll have to dust off my owners manual and see where the board is located and hopefully I can troubleshoot it a bit more from there.

Yes, if I turn the game off the gate will remain open. It closes just fine if I move it manually, but eventually it’ll just stay open again. The idea of it being magnetized actually makes sense, it’s extremely easy to move back manually but obviously requires you to open the game to fix which sucks. I’ll test those potential fixes and see how it goes from there.

The powerball issue happens in both the slot machine and the main trough area. I’ll look at those boards/sensors now that I know where they are and will report back. Appreciate the help!

Can anyone confirm, is the opto sensor beneath the slot machine subway is called the “ramp proximity opto sensor assembly” in the manual?! I need the exact part number to order a replacement and this is the only assembly that looks correct but I’m not 100%. Thanks in advance!

Well, shit. Does anyone know where one might be able to source a replacement board for this part?! The only options I’m seeing are in Australia or the Pinball Center, which won’t ship to the states without serious hassle.

Totally noob question here, but can anyone tell me where these two connectors should be plugged into?!

I’ve been tinkering in the back and failed to snap a before picture and stepped away from the project before I had time to put it back together. Now I’m having a brain fart!

It looks like the yellow should be used in J137 or J138 but the both have the same number of pins. The other one may have gone to the old dmd and may no longer be needed since I’m on a color display now, but still wanted to double check in case I missed something.

Appreciate the help as always!

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Perfect. Any idea what these connections control? I’ve been having some issues with my game and wonder if the problems could be connected to this harness not being hooked up.

Welp, I had the slot proximity sensor board tested and it’s working correctly. Trying to trace the other switches on the matrix to see if the issue is coming from something else on the line. The gumball enter optos seem to be acting up too and they’ll actually trigger just by tapping on the gumball wireform by hand. I’m sure this isn’t how they should be working but they seem solidly mounted and the soldering/wiring is intact on both optos. Still, is this possibly an indicator that these sensors need to be replaced? I have been getting random gumball enter errors in the test menu but they were sporadic at best and didn’t seem to effect gameplay so I likely ignored it for too long!

So I put in the new sensors and the issue persists, in fact it may be even worse! Uploaded a video below but as you’ll see just by tapping on the playfield the gumball enter is triggering. No idea how an opto sensor would trigger from such a minor vibration but I have to imagine this is causing issues in-game! Any thoughts on what could be causing this?!

Sorry, but what board specifically would this be and where is it located?

Awesome, thank you! I’ll try that next. Btw, your bar is the shit!! Amazing collection and great vibes all around!

Does anyone have any tips for fixing a sticking diverter gate?!

My gate tends to stick open after launching a ball but can easily be moved back by hand. I’ve tested it multiple times and can not seem to recreate the issue in test mode or by hand, and can not identify any reason why it’d be sticking open. It moves freely just fine when not playing a game but as soon as the auto launch happens it stays open. I’ve tried greasing the shaft thinking maybe that was an issue but that did nothing.

Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated!

Yeah, that’s kind of what I’m thinking. I ordered a new coil and a new plate, figured it can’t hurt to replace both and see if that helps.

Good point. I’ll do that, thanks!

So lately I’ve noticed that balls are getting stuck on the upper left magnet after it’s fired. I can shake the ball loose pretty easily but it’s still annoying during gameplay. Is there a way to test the magnet to see if it’s staying on after firing or has anyone experienced something similar and might have some idea what is going on here? Thinking I should replace the metal balls too in case they’re magnetized.

Does anyone here happen to have a template file for the bottom cardboard piece from the mini playfield? Mines looking pretty rough and I’m thinking of replacing it with colored acrylic.

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Good deal. We’ll make a few extras then and will report back when they’re ready to go. Curious, would most prefer the clear plastic or would you like some color choices? I’m going with a blue fluorescent because I think a subtle pop of color would work well with my machine but we can do just about anything that people would want.

A few of mine with the black and silver flake…

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Finally got around to cutting the acrylic piece for under the mini playfield. I really love how the blue fluorescent turned out and will post more pics post install. I have an extra if anyone is interested and we will be happy to make these in a larger batch for the community. Again, I dig the blue for my game but we can easily do them in clear or any other color that’s of most interest to the community. Feel free to shoot me a DM if you’re interested!

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Installed this weekend. Overall, I do agree the look is miles better than the crappy fish paper, but I was let down that the blue florescent failed to provide the pop of color I was really hoping for. That said, there are 2 star posts underneath that I can add some lighting to that may help correct this issue. Time will tell.

Regarding the install, I did experience some slight clearance issues with the 2 brackets that secure the mini PF to main PF. The one on the right was easy enough to fix and just required unscrewing the nut until it was in a higher position, but the bracket on the left (the one without the spring) I had to put a few washers underneath to raise it up a bit. Once I made those adjustments everything worked fine.

Long story short, I'm still more than willing to create the plastic piece for the community but it would be with the caveat that it may not be as simple as a "plug in play" install. I'd only be providing the plastic piece, anything else would have to be provided by the buyer.

DM if anyone is still interested and I'll keep you posted as things progress.

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For anyone interested, and who might live in the Columbus, Ohio area, we'll be hosting an event tomorrow evening at the Level One arcade starting at 6pm. We'll be unveiling our Godzilla topper to the public for the first time and will be bring our TZ topper for all to view as well. Now I know that alone isn't likely to sway most people into making a special trip, so we're sweeting the deal by giving away some sweet prizes to boot!

So if you're in the area, and on the fence about where you might be going to get your silver ball fix for the evening, consider swing by and saying hello! We'd love to see you and talk all things pinball!

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Oh man, and you put the logo up above?! Too funny! We actually hadn’t thought about the idea that the units could work as standalone art pieces until the good people at TPF asked us about it, but I think you’ve proven that it works! Thanks for sharing your experience!

Recently pulled my playfield out in order to install Radcals and after reinstalling now my lower left flipper (upper left works fine) isn’t working and I’m dealing with two opto errors (gumball entrance and the popper opto is stuck). All the wiring to the flipper is intact and the red led on the opto board is on, and all the fuses tested fine on the power board. Any suggestions on what I should look for next?!

So as soon as I basically lay a finger on the button the upper left flipper is firing in the switch test, followed by the end of stroke registering. The right side requires the button to go in a decent amount before the upper flipper fires, so obviously the left is registering early.

So I’ve sorted the majority of issues I was dealing with but I’m still not sure what is going on with my left flipper. I realigned the plastic opto bracket, which did correct the over sensitivity issue but I still can’t get the lower flipper to respond correctly. It will flip in short bursts when I quickly tap the flipper button but it won’t stay up if I hold the button or even pressing firmly for a brief second. Any idea what to look at next? Should I just replace the opto bracket all together?!

In case it helps, here’s a video of the issue in action:

No, the issue happens in test mode too.

Happy to provide pics, but do you want pictures of the coil/flipper assembly or the flipper board in the cabinet?

Here’s a few pics I snapped this morning. The wiring on the coil feels in tact but I can easily run some new solder on them when I get home from work. If anyone sees anything in here though that might help identify the problem please let me know! Originally, I figured I bent the plastic opto bracket when reinstalling the flipper buttons but it seems like most are suggesting it’s a mechanical issue.

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Resoldered the coil, but the issue is unchanged. I did notice that one of the thin wires you alluded to is significantly thinner than the other two and does seem a bit fragile looking, but I’m not sure if this is the cause of the issue or not? I’m guessing if it is I’d need to replace the coil? Pics for reference…

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Welp, I actually found the issue and it had nothing to do with the coil after all. Turns out the opto bracket wasn't being actuated far enough to trigger the lower flipper. I suspect what happened is the added width of the Radcals hindered the flipper buttons ability to press in the actuator (I don't know what the thing is actually called if you can't tell!), so added some electrical tape to the top of the bracket and now all is right with the world. It's always the easy things, isn't it?!

Welp, I actually found the issue and it had nothing to do with the coil after all. Turns out the opto bracket wasn't being pressed in far enough to trigger the opto for the lower flipper. I suspect what happened is the added width of the Radcals hindered the flipper buttons ability to press in the actuator fully (I don't know what the thing is actually called if you can't tell!), so added some electrical tape to the top of the bracket and now all is right with the world. It's always the easy things, isn't it?! Thank you as always though for your willingness to help out! At the very least my coil connections are a lot cleaner now!

T-minus 10 minutes until our public on-sale for our TZ topper! 50 spots available, first come, first serve: https://www.teppinball.com/store/p/tz-topper