Changing holes set might show/leave new marks on the cabinet. I would put it wherever they were before.
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Changing holes set might show/leave new marks on the cabinet. I would put it wherever they were before.
Quoted from AlexSMendes:Bought mine on ebay (UK) and just arrived! I can say that it's the real deal!
Can you post a link?
This guy? Are they plastic or real marbles?
you are missing this part:
https://bayareaamusements.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=GS-TZ8887
My TZ missed it as well when I got it and had the same issue.
Quoted from Coyote:Anyone know anyone that has a (generic) switch slot protector? That goes in the small cutout for a switch? (Like: http://bayareaamusements.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=RP-SSLOT )
I need one for under my main ramp drop-off, and can't seem to find anywhere that has one in stock.
Order directly from Cliff at Passion for Pinballs.com
Quoted from littlecammi:PinballPro.com (and others) offer:
Twilight Zone Diverter Magnet TZ-DM
$13.95
No more pinball bounce out!
In stock
1
Add to cart
SKU: TZ-DM. Category: Accessory Products. Tag: Twilight Zone.
Please don't do that.
They sell magnets at various electronic store for like $1 and double side tape at the dollars store to do this mod in a 100 TZ.
Quoted from AlexSMendes:I'm kinda going the opposite way.... I'm currently "un-modding" both my TAF and my TZ... and slowly recognizing that less is actually more!
Amen
Quoted from wizard_mode:LOL, is this what the TZ owners club has resorted to? How bout posting some sweet scores or answering my weak mini flipper question.
Changing the coil sleeve and cleaning the flipper mech did it for me. Make sure the bat as the proper gaps.
I'll try that, haven't thought about the side rail.
I'm sure I'm not the first one to get into this puzzle.
Yeah I mean I just took a look again and there is no way. The side rail screws are under the pivot bracket, I would need to take the pf out of the game it seems.
This is an odd situation.
Seems like the gumball wireform feeder would need to go out. And still...
Tons of you guys led your TZ, how you guys did it?
Ok I figured it out. What I did was remove th back board, remove the screw that holds the plastics assembly to the side rails (only one in my case), remove the plastic post that raise the plastic in front of the gumball, twist the fucker out up and toward the back, some force needed.
Clean the area as you are there...
Thanks for the tip Coyote.
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Quoted from Damien:I'm very close to picking up a TZ, but it does not have LEDs, and this is something I would definitely like to do.
I'm new to the hobby and not very savvy yet, so I'd like to know what the cost would be (and if you could recommend some good quality lights) and most importantly, how much work is involved?
Is it just pulling out the incandescent and replacing with the LEDs?
Thanks in advance
Yeah GI socket bulb will be cheap. 2smd from Comet are perfect, perhaps sunlight white.
Same for the backglass GI in wedge form. You can pepper with a few coloured to get some nice effect.
Inserts in non-ghosting will cost more. 1smd non-ghosting from Comet will do you good. Check them out.
Don't overthink it, it will look a 10x better anyway and won't take the fun out of it. It can get very confusing.
Quoted from alistaircg:I personally put Ghosting bulbs into my machine on purpose
You can also do that, less expensive and very good looking as well. You can then use the same 2 smd bulbs.
I put some regular 2 smd left over bulbs on mine for inserts and looks good.
Quoted from ramegoom:For your clock: If you are looking for the brightest, most evenly lighted system available in the US:
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=4537
How these compare to Ingo's?
Quoted from ramegoom:The Ingo board has a number of bells and whistles added, but functionally, they're identical.
Looks like the PinballLife clock board is cheaper for us in US/Canada after shipping? I know Ingo comes up with discounted board once in a while.
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