So I’m thrilled to share that I’m joining the TZ club tomorrow. After years of admiring this legendary pin from afar (I’ve actually only played this pin maybe 6-8 times total in my life), I found a beautiful original example to trade for. I’m giving up a beautiful MB plus cash for this very clean TZ with color DMD. I love MB. I hope to own it again someday. But the opportunity to own a very nice TZ is too compelling to pass up. The theme, the many shots, the deep code. I did my research before taking the dive. I am thrilled to become a TZ owner. My wife and I have owned other Pat L titles - CSI, Ripley’s, Dialed In, Shrek. We love the way he packs shots into a playfield. He likes chaos, it seems, with shots from multiple flippers and angles. I tested this particular TZ and it plays great. Good, strong flippers and smooth shots. Cabinet isn’t faded yet. I’ve picked out a couple mods and decals, but I will try not to go overboard. They offer SO many amazing mods for this pin, it would be easy to get carried away.

We will pick up our new TZ on Monday and bring her home. Can’t wait. I haven’t even begun to scratch the surface of this amazing, benchmark pin. I understand Lawlor was given a very wide latitude to make this game as amazing as he wanted after the incredible success of TAF. I wonder if pinball reached a zenith of sorts in 1993 and if any machine will approach TZ in terms of complexity and grandiosity in the future. Can’t wait to open the door...

Anyone happen to have backup/extra plastics and could sell me one of these?

Thanks!

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That’s great! PM me? Thank you!

Excellent job! I usually replace the receiver if it’s really crusty, but that’s like new and saves $100. I need to work on that skill!

Also, I’m looking to rejoin the club soon after a couple years away. Hoping to powder coat my next one or go with chrome. Can someone post a pic of your TZ with either a black sparkle powder, or chrome? I would love to see some pics. Thanks!

Help I’m steppin’ (back) into the Twilight Zone…more like the cash register zone! Found a beautiful example, and already depleting my funds on mods. I even found a spinning slot machine and replica mystic seer for my topper. One of the very best pins from my favorite era. I chose a restored TZ over a Godzilla premium nib. Nothing against Goddy, but I’ll have more chances at another nib for the next year or two. I couldn’t pass on a pristine TZ. Can’t wait to get lost in the zone again!

It is starting to look that way. I’m very happy I went with TZ when I had the chance. Zilla is a great Stern title. But I’ll have lotsa chances at one.

I know this is probably a silly question, but does anyone have a blue or clear clock housing they would sell me? Mine is red, which is fine, but I prefer the blue or clear. I would buy or include my red + $.

Thank you!

You are right! I thought I had checked all the usual sources. I forgot Planetary. I ordered a new clear dome. Blue would be awesome, someday!

Are you gonna eat your tots?

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Wow, what a fantastic trip! My wife and I loved visiting San Fran, Zion, Grand Teton, etc. on trips over the years. I’m envious.

What’s your vote between all chrome armor, about $2,000 total for legs, rails, lock bar, hinges, bolts, and coin door, or, sparkle black powder coat called Spiced Black (looks like space) for around $500 total? The color I’m considering is below…
I love chrome, but damn.

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Black mirrors look amazing on TZ!

I just ordered one for my TZ that is shipping to me soon. I hope Ingo is still producing these. I paid for one with blue LEDs and shipping. Fingers crossed.

Not cool if he’s got the store open and accepting payments but not shipping anything. Hopefully it ships. We shall see.

Good to know. I saw the Casper board was readily available too, which is good to know. People raved about the Ingo board, so I ordered one before I noticed people have had issues lately. If I receive one in the next few weeks, I’ll share that. If not, I’ll try to back out the payment and order a Casper board. My TZ is pretty recently restored, so it may have a Casper board already. I’ll know soon…

Fortunately, that $130 was pretty obnoxious and I was happy to be rid of it. Lol. Thanks for the heads up, I will give them a couple weeks and request a refund. Now I just need STI to pick up my TZ and ship it to me!

White powder on TZ could be unusual. But it always comes down to what the owner likes. I have a WH2O that came with a really well done white sparkle powder coat. It didn’t bother me or anything at first, I could take it or leave it. But now I really like it, and recently swapped my mountains for white snow mountains. Some people don’t like it, but I do! I doubt it would affect value much. A high-end WH2O is worth a lot these days, and while a few buyers might prefer stainless, that’s not an expensive conversion in the grand scheme considering the value of these pins. I just ordered a new TNA with the black powdercoat. But I prefer stainless on TNA, so I ordered all the armor in stainless from Pinball Life for $350 or so. Tomato Tomäto!

After weeks of delay and a false start due to faulty lift-gate, my TZ is finally on its way to me! Can’t wait to unlock this door with the key of imagination!

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I’ll give it a few weeks. Hopefully I get it. Otherwise, refund request, then INTERPOL, then hired goons.

It’s finally here! Now I remember why this game is always in the top 10. A masterpiece.

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I’m a kid at heart!

Is it difficult to replace the clock board? My restored TZ has intermittent clock glitches, so I ordered a Casper board from Marco. I have an order for one of the boards from overseas people used to rave about, but I guess they aren’t really shipping them anymore?

EDIT: I found the install instructions on Caspers website. Seems very easy to follow. Should be fine. Also, order direct from them for $8 or so savings PLUS free shipping. I had other items to get from Marco, but that’s a good deal for others to note.

Thanks! I will be careful during the install to keep the gears aligned correctly.

Getting my newly added TZ customized to my liking. I added a color DMD, target decals and a few other mods (street lamp, chrome spiral sign, soon also a spinning slot machine, etc). I still need to install mirror blades, then decide on chrome vs black sparkle powder coat. I added clear flipper buttons with color-changing LEDs today, and my clock shooter rod is coming soon! Thanks to James in NY for this excellent deal. A true keeper.

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Both, dual monitors. Get more done that way.

I have LCD in mine, which I usually choose because I like the scan option, but many prefer LED, which I agree does appear slightly brighter with better contrast, if you don’t mind the dots. But I have LED in my TOTAN and LCD in others. Both huge upgrades over the stock DMD.

Mine was born 5/25/93. But was later heavily restored with a new playfield and cabinet, so…reborn? I decided to go with polished chrome from Chris Royalty for my armor upgrade. My son can damn well put himself through college.

I just noticed my TZ was restored by Dan Goett. His bio says TZ is his favorite game to restore. Anyone else have experience with him? I’m impressed with his work so far. Sorta HEP-lite.

A little nod to one of my favorite episodes and TZ: The Movie, which I’ve always liked.

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Yep! Ronnie is like 5 years old in it. Gig had a tumultuous career and life, which ended tragically in the late 70’s just a few years after he won acclaim for his role in They Shoot Horses Don’t They? I’ve always liked Walking Distance, one of the nostalgia episodes, like Young Man’s Fancy. I also love The Monsters are Due on Maple Street and What You Need. My all time fav is Nick of Time with William Shatner.

A Game of Pool is a good one, with the late, great Jonathon Winters. The Masks is creepy. One of the best also.

It’s coming along!

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I do, thanks for the reminder tho. There is a slight wrinkle of the decal where the metal protector pinches it. I like the look of light blue protectors on TZ. They shouldn’t make matters worse with metal protectors under them. I might apply a little heat to remove the wrinkle and leave them off.

Exactly, whoever applied the cab decal didn’t remove the decal from under the metal stand-off/leg protector, instead covering it, and creating a pinch at the corners. It’s mild, and I may trim it myself.

Hi TZ clock experts! I just replaced my Pinball Lizard clock board that wasn’t working right with a Casper board. Took the time to swap the housing and new face decal too. Looks nice, I think, but I cannot get this clock to 12:00 noon or to work properly. I read the install instructions carefully, and tried to follow the Ed Cheung instructions for lining up the gears correctly too, but I’ll admit I can’t follow it. My white gears feel locked in place when the game of off, so I can’t move them, I can only reposition the large black gear that drives the hour hand. My game doesn’t send the clock to 12:00 noon on power up, so I’m not sure where to start.

If someone here is super familiar with the clock gears and how to get it set to 12:00 noon and could PM me, I would really appreciate it! Maybe someone can walk me through setting the gears.

The photo shows my new clear clock and white prototype face decal, with the hands set to noon, which is how I installed it. But on power up, it changes the clock to weird random times. Definitely doesn’t find 12:00.

Thank you!

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Installed my new clock board, housing and face today! Had trouble getting the 12:00 setting at first, despite the instructions and Ed Cheung tips. I found this step-by-step on Pinball Info, which explained the tiny teeth on the white gears and how to align them. Now it’s 12:00 exactly on start up!

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Question for you mod guys. I bought one of the mini TVs that display images, and connect to the TP1 12v pole on the power driver board. However, I have a Rottendog driver board, which doesn’t appear to have the 12v pole. Anyone know if I can tap into the 12v power supply safely for this mod?

Here is the original and what it looks like on my board.

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That looks fantastic! I’ve done 4-5 pins with Radcals, and removing the original art, or at least painting over it before applying the Radcals is a must. I put Radcals on my restored Fish Tales and decided to leave the original art alone. It shows through slightly, and because the art doesn’t quite line up, it has a subtle double image. TZ art is darker, so that might not happen, but it’s a good move. I love seeing fully restored pins. That TZ looks awesome!

I was debating the very same decision. I love the feel and durability of powder coat, and chrome just begs for fingerprints. I went with chrome, I have a few pins with powder already. I think it’s spectacular, but a subtle glossy sparkle black would look amazing too! Here is my recent chrome…

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Yep, Pinballplating.com, Chris Royalty. I did my CV in his chrome too.

I just replaced my red housing with the clear one, and I really like it. I wanted blue, but I can't find one. I do have my red one that I replaced, if you can't find a new one and you want to stick with red. I'm happy to send it to you.

Here is the one I just installed…

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I use a very small diamond shaped bit with my dremel and it cuts very easily and is easy to control. I’ve tried an exacto and made mistakes. I use a flashlight from inside the cabinet to identify the holes for bolts through the Radcal. Then I gently press the bit through the center and cut the hole out. It’s pretty easy. Others use utility knives or drills. Whatever works for you! This works for me. I’ve done about 5 pins in Radcals now.

Because each cabinet is slightly different, and the most important thing is that the Radcal is lined up correctly at the front edge of the cabinet and just under the rail. Then you can identify your flipper hole location and cut it. If the flipper hole was pre-cut, the front edge of the Radcal might overhang the front of the cab, requiring a lengthy trim, or be receded back and not be flush with the front corner at all, which would be hard to fix. That’s my understanding anyway!

Exactly. He said it better than I. I use this method for all my bolt holes, flipper button holes and larger cuts like the start button and shooter rod housing.

PDI still offers the silver mirror clock housing…for $185.

I did just find a new clear one on EBay. Wasn’t cheap, but it’s totally clear like yours. I’ll prob switch mine to that unless a blue one pops up.

I think that’s the same piano I have. From PDI. $99.99.

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TZ feels different to me than any other pin I’ve owned or played. An absolutely loaded widebody with too much going on to be floaty, it’s a really unique pinball experience. With a fair amount of stop/go, it’s not everyone’s favorite, but it’s a great change of pace game and every game feels different. There are so many different strategies, and it’s not linear at all. It’s like an amusement park for pinballs.

I love STTNG. I used to ignore it in the wild when I’d see them in arcades. It seemed like they were everywhere in the 90’s. But once I owned one, I realized what a fantastic layout it is. I had a really nice one last year and I added the cannon lasers, color DMD and several other upgrades. The modes kick ass and getting multiball never gets old. I love the video mode and collecting crystals. It’s one of the very best widebodies, imho!

Very nice, creative clock mod! I bought the first one you mentioned with the rotating minute hand. It’s expensive, I agree. I do like it a lot. The minute hand rotates and the face lights up when clock modes are active, or when you hit the clock target. It would be even better if made of brass! It’s made of some sort of metal. My issue is keeping it protected from ball strikes. I mounted a large, clear washer under it, and that seems to do the trick for now. A larger, rounded clear protector would be better!

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Mine goes SDTM if I don’t use the mini flipper and shoot for the piano. I like the danger!

I’m lucky I don’t get many unfair drains out of the pops, maybe I have the left outlane especially tight. I like the shot through the pops into the scoop in the back corner, and I love shooting the camera shot. On my upper pf, there is some strategy i finally discovered. I only beat the power about 25% of the time, which I like. On my game, the only way to send the ball up toward the scoop to defeat the power is to let the ball come down to the bottom of the magnet zones, and then try to throw the ball up. You can find the sweet spot, but it’s not easy. Definitely not just mashing buttons, which would take the fun out of it. Probably wouldn’t do much on my example.

I do find some pins have unused real estate, but I haven’t felt that on my TZ, personally.

Like most pins, there seems to be a fair amount of variation in how difficult the Power is to defeat. On my first TZ, it seemed too easy. Mash the buttons and the magnets really tossed the ball around and more often than not, up the middle and out. On my new restored TZ, the magnets are less predictable. They grab the ball and pull it toward the bottom reliably, but you have to hit the button at just the right time to get upward motion. I like it, it’s a real challenge and not a gimme. Mashing the buttons won’t work well. Even with good timing, I’m around 25% success. I like it, especially during Powerball. That jackpot is big, and you really have to earn it!

Could someone skilled in metalwork produce the swirling wireform ramp? They are unobtainium now, and really add a nice “twist” to the left ramp. I would think the demand would support it.

Thanks!

Agree. I had flipper power issues on my White Water with the upper flipper that drove me nuts. Replaced coils, sleeves, etc., no change. My lower flipper on that side was ok, so I didn’t suspect the fliptronics board. Replaced it just to see, boom, perfect power. It’s great when you solve these mysteries and all is 100%…until the next one!

You inspired me. My TZ is restored, but has a translite. I can’t resist the mirrored glass upgrade.

It’s done! Ordered one yesterday. Blew a lot of cabbage on TZ mirrored glass, and speaker/speaker box LEDs for BSD and FT. Probably should make my own version with Comet led strips instead!

If you haven’t checked out Comet Pinball’s led matrix system, you should! If you are interested in adding lights to your pin, under a scoop, extra lamps, etc., they are awesome. Very easy to use with 6.3v LEDs you can easily connect to GI sockets, the coin door, etc. They sell various lengths of wires too, and I recommend getting several of each length. They have tons of bulbs, including red and blue twinkling “fire” bulbs, which are a cool effect (I use them behind translites that depict fire or lightning, like the bbq in EATPM; lightning in TAF (looks amazing!) and torches in BSD), and color-changing LEDs which can be useful too. I use a color-changing led in my gumball plastic which lights up when the gumball machine is qualified, and then changes colors. Reasonable $$ too, considering many scoop led mods are $25-30. You can easily light your scoops for $10 with Comet. Just a suggestion!

My mirrored backglass arrived safely, despite shipping. Box was pretty chewed up and wet. But the packing by CPR is respectable for sure. The glass is thick, thicker than the stock glass and translite. So putting the plastic trim/channels on it wasn’t easy. But it looks great to me!

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Thanks, I did exactly that with a couple pieces, including the important bottom channel trim piece. The sides are standard, but they are super tight. I bought a few sets of trim pieces recently to have backups on hand, so I mixed and matched until I had it framed in.

I am happy with the mirrored glass. The art on the glass is a reasonable approximation of the original art, perhaps a touch darker. Personally, I think the original is just fine. This TZ example I bought was fully restored before I got it, and then I spent a lot on the chrome. So this sorta completes the bling, if you will. I wouldn’t call it “must have.” But it’s a nice, classy looking alternative. Purely a personal preference.

Agree, Voodoo glass, or jump on JJP’s website and order a widebody Invisiglass. They cost a little more, but the edges are beveled and they are a bit easier to handle and less likely to cut into the plastic channel, which I’ve done with some of my Voodoo glass. That, and a bent plastic helps with reflection.

Maple St., the last calm and reflective moment, before the monsters came. This sign was due on my TZ!

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Homewood? That’s walking distance, isn’t it?

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My all-time favorite. Great story, pace, acting and arc. Especially sad if you know how tragically actor Gig Young’s life ended, and how the actor who plays his father so memorably in the episode, Frank Overton, died of a heart attack at age 49. I read this was Rod Serling’s most personal story.

I also love “What You Need,” “Nick of Time,” “The Monsters are Due on Maple Street,” and “a Game of Pool.”

Thanks, I found it online about a year ago when I was looking for a bigger one for a topper. I paid alot, like $75 I believe, and this little red one arrived. But it’s a nice size for a playfield mod. I did find the larger one from 2009 later. It’s black/white and comes with some fortune cards. But it’s $199 + shipping on EBay. I tried to find the small red one again and I can’t find it. It’s not in my eBay history, so I found it elsewhere.
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Thanks! Chris Royalty at PinballPlating.com did the doors, rails, legs. The chrome doors really are dazzling!

I’ve installed RadCals on 5-6 pins. It’s a different process than decals, and slightly more forgiving, but definitely not slap it on. You’ll want a smooth, flat cabinet to attach them to, so fill and sand any deep cuts or dents. I always sand any rough edges under the legs. Paint the cab black to prevent art from showing thru. I install the front RadCal first, then the sides so they form a nice corner where they meet. You’ll want a dremel for cutting holes for the start button, flipper buttons, and bolts. The head is the easiest part, so maybe start there. Don’t forget you’ll need to remove the hinge bolts on the sides of the cabinet before installing the side panels. I have a trick for this that saves having to remove the playfield or other more elaborate trick. I put the playfield back all the way in the service position. With the pf vertical, I lift the pf an inch or so, until it’s off the hinges. I use a 4 inch (or so) wood block to slide under the bottom and suspend the pf off the hinges just enough to remove the hinge bolts. Then you can remove them, leave the wood block under the pf, and you can easily remove the block and allow the pf to lock into the hinges again when you are ready and the bolts are back in.

If you have any questions about the process, pm me or others here who have done them.

Excellent idea. These could help avoid the dimple the bolts create. I also recess the holes with a dremel and minimize that, but these bolts could work great.

You’d have to countersink those, even tho they have a flat head. Or the Radcal won’t lay flat. I tend to agree that you could cover the bolts, and shouldn’t need to access them again. I tried to think of a reason you’d need to, but I can’t. I replace them on older WPC pins if they are tarnished, rusty or oxidized. But these you’ll never see again. It’s one option!

Personal choice. I will probably continue to drill holes in the Radcals for the bolts. But I can see why sinking the bolts so they are flush and then covering them would produce a smooth, clean look. Here are a few pics of mine with the bolts, if it helps you decide.

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Bought a big sheet of polycarbonate and scored and snapped off a little protector for my clock mod. Balls were bouncing up into it. It’s not elegant, but it’s functional. I might polish the edges with a dremel.

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Nice! I received mine a few weeks ago. Haven’t installed it yet! Reminds me of the wireform on GZ.

Pinball Decals.com has the white clock face decal for $12.99. The clear clock housings have been back in stock lately, but yellow and blue housings are only at Pinball Center, in Germany. They will ship to Canada but not USA. I have a blue and a clear housing and while I like both, I really like the clear. Here’s mine I just rebuilt with a new board and gears.

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This could really help. 180 pages with 200 color photos of repair and troubleshooting tips. You can always get great free advice here and on Pinwiki, but I’d get this book if I was learning to shop/maintain pins.

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I debated the exact same issue for my first game. I considered a restored TZ, or a nib pin. I was worried about upkeep, reliability. That was 2016. Now, looking back, I would get the game I want most, used or not. Condition is key, and check the boards and any issues with switches, mechs, etc. TZ is a loaded game, but I’ve had just as many (or few) issues with nib as with a good condition 90’s pin. Just my experience!

These look awesome. It’s funny, when you posted these pics 6 months ago, I said the same thing, but then I went with standard mirror blades on mine, which look great, but the black mirror blades look especially good on this game. Lesson learned!

This one might be a great option for TZ. Black with a subtle sparkle. I bet several people have good black powder examples to share.

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Looks awesome! I just jumped on the wait list for the June run!

Who here has Pinsound on TZ? Is it a game changer? Considering it for TZ or IJPA.

Thank you!

Thanks for all the info! I have Pinsound + in my BSD and LOTR. Really like the product. I would be bummed to lose the Golden Earring song. Are there any Pinsound packages that include it? If not, I’m prob not capable (yet) to design my own. Maybe the Tilt Audio option mentioned above.

About 10% of the time, when the diverter flips the ball onto the playfield off the Power wireform, the ball lands between this post and the side of the wireform. I can nudge the cabinet and it usually drops, but I would prefer the diverter always works. Do I need to add a magnet to the diverter?

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I added the post to prevent the ball hanging up there.

Well I’m new at this.

Agree. I’ve installed Radcals on 5-6 pins, and on the first 2 I sanded and filled any dents, but I didn’t paint over the old artwork. On my TOTAN, I didn’t notice the art underneath, but on my Fish Tales, I did. It doesn’t bother me, and it’s subtle, but you can see a slight double image through the Radcal. Painting a solid color is a good option. I’ll try to post a picture of the Fish Tales double image.

Pretty clear on that Indy. My Fish Tales has a similar, slightly more subtle effect. You can see the outline of the boat.

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I am a big fan of Polk Audio powered subwoofers. I recently added one to my Indy Jones, and I have one for TZ too. They really add depth and plenty of base to the standard speakers. If you are looking for ways to improve the audio, it’s worth a try!

What a complex game TZ is, even today. In 1993 it was bonkers. Most pins are lucky to boast half the mechs, modes and features!

What’s a twister mini pf switch kit?

This is a dumb question, but the mini playfield switches simply register hits that raise the value of the jackpot for defeating the power? Is that correct? So you want to keep the ball moving up there awhile before defeating the power to hit as many switches as you can? I guess I never gave it much thought, I’m always focused on trying to throw the ball upward to beat the power.

Same here. My upper pf is quite tricky and the ball must be in the right place to throw it upward and defeat the power. I had a different TZ years ago and it seemed like mashing the buttons was all it took. I defeated the power yesterday, and did it during Powerball multiball for the 50m jackpot. I rarely get that. I scored just over 1 billion, but I took the extra ball.

I have a 12v tv mod that I can’t connect to the 12v pole in the back box because my board is a replacement and they don’t have the 5v and 12v poles.

If I want to connect this to a 12v source under the playfield, does anyone know how to do it? In the instructions it appears the red wire w the alligator clip goes on the 12v pole in the back box and the tiny black wire is a ground. But it’s not super clear. I could be wrong about the black wire.

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My TZ playfield was a little dark, so I added a star post 4-led light to the side of the slot machine toward the rear of the pf. Made a huge difference. And added LEDs to the trough. Comet has bulbs for everything.

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