I finally made it into the club!

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I'm leaning towards doing a Rockstar Sparle on all the legs, the lockdown bar, side rails, and backbox hinges. Thoughts?

This is true of any powdercoat. I have a large company near me that does powder coating but they told me they don't use Prismatic Powders not even if I provide the powder ... not sure what to make of that as I have no idea about the process. They did say that they can match it and apply a similar sparkle clear coat but it will be from their supplier. Not sure what to make of that.

I'm sure they do. I still plan on having them do the work as I like to support the local business folks not to mention its a lot more convenient to drive 15 minutes to their establishment and speak to them in person about the project then it is to ship this stuff out and never have a chance to see it before you pay.

The biggest problem I have is actually getting stuff to them as their powder coat guy only works 8AM-4PM M-F, and these are my exact work hours

I actually purchased all new raw legs, side rails, and hinges for this project from pinballlife.com, if I like how it comes out I may do a turn around on the stuff removed from TZ to do the same job on my STTNG

Super newb question...I dont see lamp 81 (Left Spiral) light in lamp test and its not shown on the Lamp Location page Can someone point me in the right direction please?

Thank you, I see the empty lamp socket now, a missing bulb would be a good reason why it's not lighting.

nope

a bit??? LOL

Did you actually measure the power input to the board at J5-2, or are you relying on the light to tell you the board has no power? I only ask that as often times a leaky capacitor will corrode the through holes under the capacitor and break the connections.

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This may have already been answered in this forum but with 9K entries, it will take me awhile to work through them. I noticed that if I tell my game to load 4 balls to the gumball, it will comply and load them but then it wont load a ball to the shooter lane at game start and it just runs continuous ball searches, and I clearly see two in the trough; the question I have is how does the game know how many balls are in the gumball machine?

Thanks for the help guys, adding a 7th ball took care of the issue.

This is everywhere it goes; you will want to start by isolating a short between power at J109-5 and ground as well as resistance between J109-5 and returns at J125-6, J125-8, and J124-1 to look for broken wires as you should read the resistance of the coils here. You should also check between ground and J125-6, J125-8, and J124-1 as a short here would power on the appropriate coil and would be caused by either a shorted/pinched wire or a shorted transistor. Hope this helps.
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I'm interested!

Can someone confirm what size coil should be in the Shooter Lane Diverter?

My TZ has a SZ-34-3500 which according to the page 5-55 of the 1993 Bally/Midway Grey parts catalog and page 2-29 of the TZ manual confirms this is the correct part, Marco on the other hand shows this is a Funhouse only part.

The Solenoid table on page 2-52 of the TZ manual calls for a SZ-33-3000 coil here, this is confirmed by item 1591 of the TZ build parts list, Marco shows the SZ-33-3000 coil is for both TZ and DM and Planetary Pinball has the SZ-33-3000 coil wrapper as part of the TZ coil wrapper kit.

This is always the problem with having too much info...

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Thanks Coyote ... I appreciate the clarification and will plan on replacing it; this coil is stronger and should help my gate out that seems lethargic when it moves.

For the window? I would just paint it black

The file size is 512KB so you need a 4M ROM to burn the code into.

You are going to have to address the corrosion first, but after that regardless if you install NVRAM or not, but afterwards:

In my opinion ... just install AA lithium batteries and don't worry about it. NVRAM is nice as you don't ever have to buy batteries again but your clock will act as an hour meter, which is also not bad if this is the information you want to have.

Full disclosure, I have been using this type of battery in everything that takes 9v, AA, or AAA batteries ever since they came out. I never change them until they die and have never had one leak. I have also never been woken up at 3AM from a smoke detector chirping because the backup battery is low using these, this in itself justifies the higher cost IMO.

In 2015 I made a post promising to let folks know when the lithium batteries in my fully restored STTNG dies and gave me the "Reset to Factory Defaults" message, it could be tomorrow and it may be 5 years from now; I can tell you with certainty I'm not loosing any sleep having 5 year old batteries in my pin.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/avoid-battery-leakage#post-3403024

Please don't shoot the messenger here as I'm only providing information that I've seen over a long period of time.

This is terrible on the driver board itself as it should never be below 5V at the test point.

It does and its a decent board but these come with their own long issues and they are throw away parts where the original LM323K were designed for long term continuous operation.

This is the best post I've ever seen that explains why the KAHR board is not a permanent solution.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/sttng-pinball-keeps-turning-of-and-on-instantly#post-5959849