(Topic ID: 63352)

Twilight Zone Owner's club

By Caucasian2Step

10 years ago


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8 key posts have been marked in this topic

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Post #5897 Updated 9.4H manual with corrections from Coyote Posted by Coyote (5 years ago)

Post #8716 Have your picture taken in the translight Posted by Neal_W (3 years ago)

Post #10381 Switching to stereo sound. Posted by hawknole (2 years ago)

Post #11803 How to Add 3rd Magnet. Posted by mbaumle (2 years ago)

Post #11810 Third Magnet Parts List Posted by mbaumle (2 years ago)

Post #13048 Board replacement options. Posted by DumbAss (1 year ago)

Post #14049 Flipper cabinet opto board data Posted by DumbAss (9 months ago)

Post #14166 More key board data Posted by DumbAss (8 months ago)


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#7158 4 years ago

Pulling ROMs isn’t that difficult. I’ve always used a small flat head screwdriver, working one end, then the other end, switching ends as I lift it a little at a time until the chip pops out. Never broke off a leg of damaged a board....

1 month later
#7264 4 years ago
Quoted from damadczar:

I'd also like to know if brighter leds make a difference. I need a new translite and was contemplating the CPR upgrade.

I’m in the same boat for STTNG. I’d actually prefer a translite but it sounds like most of the reproductions are low quality. Does anyone make true to original quality translites?

2 weeks later
#7319 4 years ago
Quoted from Scotty_K:

I've had similar issues with my original clock board, where I'd get it to work temporarily, but then it would act up again shortly into a game.
Ingo's board will definitely fix any issues you might have. I put mine in over a year ago and haven't had a problem since.

Same thing here. Mine will work/pass the initial test at boot up and then fails during game play. I've had the ingo board in a box for a few months, just haven't gotten around to installing it.

2 months later
#7461 4 years ago
Quoted from Yesh23:

I haven’t seen this board in other twilight zone machines and just curious if somebody could tell me what it is used for?[quoted image]

https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/williams-bally-pinball-dmd-high-power-1886273007

3 months later
#7776 4 years ago

Anyone have a need for an original clock board? It would throw an occasional error, so one or more opto may be flaky or may need a good cleaning. Not sure what it’s worth...

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#7777 4 years ago

Just curious, does anyone use any lube on the gumball machine? Maybe Teflon lube on the gears? I never have in the past but just finished my clock and used it there. I’m guessing I shouldn’t on the gumball machine but thought I’d ask.

1 week later
#7830 4 years ago
Quoted from FlippinJimmy:

I left the machine off for a little while and when I turned it back on the game went straight into a reboot. Even without playing or using the flippers the machine just kept rebooting. Since I am not using any of the electronics do you still think the suggested fix is the way to go or something more serious?

Read this:
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Game_resets

While it may be the bridge and/or cap, there are a host of other things it can be too. Replacing the bridge almost always damages the board (in my experience). I always put jumpers on the board after that repair.

#7833 4 years ago
Quoted from FlippinJimmy:

I must be one of the "glass half empty" type people as I didn't believe that pulling the connectors and reseating them would make any difference. But it did. I pulled the board and when I reconnected everything it works again. Very happy about that.
It did give me a chance to inspect the CPU board too and I have to say. It looks beautiful.[quoted image][quoted image]

That would suggest a connector or grounding issue. Does the boards all have screws holding them in, and we’re they tightened?

I’d cut that battery holder off now, it was some damage. Add a remote battery holder or NVRAM. Note that NVRAM is difficult on that board.

Where do you live? Never know, might be someone local that can help if you’re not up to the tasks.

#7836 4 years ago
Quoted from FlippinJimmy:

Live on the MS Gulf Coast. Good poing on the battery holder. Plan to do that but was thinking NVRAM. Didn't know that it was an issue on TZ. Will go the remote battery holder way.

NVRAM on any WPC game is tough. Hard to get the old chip out without damaging the board. I just did my TZ, but I have a Hakko desoldering gun which helps a lot.

Too bad you aren’t closer, I’d enjoy helping. I’m in the process of a major shop job on mine, here’s where I’m at as of this morning. Going back together, but still a lot to go.

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#7840 4 years ago
Quoted from FlippinJimmy:

Beautiful playfield. Did you do a swap or is that the original?
I cleaned the accessible parts on my PF when the machine arrived but intend to do a full shop. Was hopping to get some games in first though. Are you going LED?

It's the original playfield. I'm sure my game was routed for a while, but not super long. I've owned it for about 20 years. And I'll never sell it, often joke that I'll be buried in it some day....

Your game is missing the coin mechanisms. They snap into the frame of the coin door...I can get pics later if needed.

#7841 4 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

I’m starting to suspect battery acid damage. You can’t always see it, and those battery contacts clearly had some acid on them.
Might be worth the $90 just to replace the MPU.

Where can you get a MPU for $90?

Honestly the plugging/unplugging of connectors makes me think it's not battery damage. I don't see any damage below the holder, which is typically where it starts. But who knows until you cut the holder off...

#7854 4 years ago
Quoted from spblat:

Perhaps, but not before you reflow all the headers and budget for a replacement board. Those caps are hell to get out if you’re not an expert because the leads are spring-loaded against the holes for ease of installation. My 30 years soldering as a hobbyist wasn’t enough to keep me from wrecking the eyelet that connects one side of the circuit to the other. And I had the benefit of a shiny new desoldering station to play with.

I have to wonder if anyone can get them out without damaging the through hole. I never have, and like you, I have decades of soldering experience. I just suck it up and jumper the back of the board every time. I mean, it works and it’s hidden from sight.

And in my opinion, which is worth...well...if you’re going to replace the 5V regulator, use one of these. No heat, and it’s switching.

https://www.ezsbc.com/index.php/psu5.html#.Xhu0AcpOmhA

I did all sorts of upgrades to my STTNG board - new bridges, caps, regulator and headers. It’s rock solid now. Did random resets before. I never replaced the connectors, somewhere down the road as time permits...

#7872 4 years ago

Hard to believe it took me over 3 hours just to strip, polish, ultrasonic the parts, etc. this thing. Thought it’d take an hour, ha ha...

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#7876 4 years ago

Thanks, I completely stripped the playfield, used novus and then a few coats of wax. I’m sticking with the original switch covers because, well, I’m on a budget. Trying to shop and rebuild TZ as cheaply as possible. Luckily, I had some flipper rebuild kits, a rubber set and LED set I bought a while back. So I haven’t spent much at all on it, other than a LOT of time....

#7880 4 years ago

Almost done!

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#7893 4 years ago
Quoted from misterman:

Thank you very much. Yes I tested by hand and with a ball. The switch has a lot of left to right wiggle in it, probably time for a new one.

Left / right wiggle probably isn’t the switch. It could be that the switch arm is opened up too much where it attaches to the switch, or the switch screws are loose. A new switch won’t come with the switch arm. Worthy of checking first.

#7894 4 years ago

Also noteworthy, if you loosen the small screws that attach the switch to the bracket, you can adjust the angle of the switch which will effect when it’s activated. Often I’ve found that to be the problem with micro switches, poorly adjusted...

#7898 4 years ago
Quoted from Seatmandan:

I agree with this. I have seen that the tiny buttons on the microswitch become gummed up, and start to not pop back out and make the audible "click" If that's the case, the switch WILL be intermittent, and no adjusting will fix it.
It's also possible that the 2 screws attaching the switch to the metal bracket are over-tightened. This will also cause the button under the wireform to not pop back out reliably.

Good call, I’ve also seen overtightened screws that hindered the switch.

Honestly though, in all of my years collecting, I’m not sure I’ve ever seen a truly bad switch. But I’ve only owned a dozen or so games. I did proactively replace them all on my STTNG, but it had been heavily routed...

#7900 4 years ago
Quoted from misterman:

I will look into this also thanks. Sometimes I would bottom out the switch and it wouldn't register, sometimes it would. Switch does have a weird bend to it though.[quoted image]

Well that would make me think it’s truly bad. You can remove it from the bracket, remove the switch arm and then test it again. If it’s still intermittent, most likely the switch is truly bad.

Yeah, if it were mine I’d fix the malformed arm..

#7908 4 years ago

Shop job completed. Need to add up the time spent, but somewhere around 24 hours. A few things left to tweak, but man....it plays great! Hard to believe how much snappier the flippers feel. Happy!

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#7911 4 years ago
Quoted from FlippinJimmy:

Sure looks good Jim. Are those purple star posts or is that just the lighting?

Thanks, it’s just the lighting. LEDs always look bad in pics, imho. But I had to do it, TZ was looking dated vs my other games. Well, except surf champ, which is still incandescent...

#7935 4 years ago

Just curious, has anyone added an external sub to TZ, with an l-pad, and without connecting the sub that’s in the cabinet?

I have a Polk sub hooked up to my STTNG and modified the sound board to control the ratio between the sub and the back box speakers. It works great. But when I hook TZ to the same sub, the bass from STTNG simply overpowers TZ. So I’d like to utilize the Polk sub for both games, and exclude the sub in the cabinet of TZ (which is how my STTNG is set up).

I disconnected the sub in the TZ cabinet while experimenting, and of course I lost my back box speakers too - I assume all of the speakers are wired in series.

Thanks in advance for any help!

#7942 4 years ago

Does anyone know the proper size of these rubbers? Mine are clearly not right, too big...

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#7944 4 years ago
Quoted from JayDee:

[quoted image]

Thanks. I guess my kit from Marco was wrong. I guess I assumed they use that chart for their kit, which made me question if the chart was right. I hate the idea of ordering 2 rubbers as I’m sure I’ll pay dearly just due to shipping...

#7949 4 years ago
Quoted from FlippinJimmy:

I had a Marco Kit come in a couple weeks ago. There were several incorrect sizes. I sent an email to customer service and they sent them out no problem. Just be sure to specify color as I had ordered white and they sent me black for the bumpers (H) and white for the 7/16" you need.
On another note, I ordered Sopranos rubber from Marco months ago and just got around to changing the rubber. There were all sorts of screw ups in that kit.
Never had any other issues with Marco kits or orders.

Yeah, that was my suspicion - my kit was wrong. Unfortunately, I ordered the kit over a year ago and just now got around to shopping the game. =(

I'll have to rummage my spare rubber bag, but I'm guessing I'll have to shell out the cash for the new ones.

#7950 4 years ago
Quoted from JayDee:

I just double checked mine to make sure the manual wasn’t a misprint. It’s correct[quoted image]

Wow, I never looked at my rubbers to see if the size was printed on them. Who knew?

#7960 4 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

I've tried something I think is amazing..
All white rubber!

I’m with you there. I think all white rubbers are a thing of beauty on TZ, but to each their own I suppose...

#7976 4 years ago

Mine has Phillips with a tapered head, like this. No washers.

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#7993 4 years ago
Quoted from Seatmandan:

That is not correct. It's a flat Phillips head

Actually now that you say it, I think mine is flat head....

#7999 4 years ago
Quoted from FlippinJimmy:

I suck at TZ. This is the one game I have that there has been no improvement on since I got it. Can't break 450,000

3 or 5 ball game?

#8002 4 years ago

I leave all of my games on 5 ball, simply because that’s how they were when I was a kid / teenager. I bet we played 1,000 games on the TZ at the local bowling alley. So many that the game started to have issues and they replaced it with something that else. It was a sad, sad day. So many nights of fun....

#8004 4 years ago
Quoted from FlippinJimmy:

Twilight zone is a bit deceiving in my opinion. It is a slow game at times but can turn fast and drain the ball instantly. There are also a number of shots that are very risky. Of all the games I have, this game probably has the lowest time for each ball in play.

At least on my machine, the clock Target is brutally unforgiving.

My wife says I get in a groove with TZ and she gets mad - balls last a long time. Then I fall into not being able to hit anything and the frustration sets in...

I’ve never felt that groove with other games. Not my STTNG, WOZ, etc. Not that they aren’t fun, but it’s not the same...

1 week later
#8091 4 years ago
Quoted from RussMyers:

Working on a TZ.
One of the TZ's mini playfield support bracket seems to be incorrect.
Does anyone have a picture of what this should look like?
RussM[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Not the best pic....

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1 month later
#8344 4 years ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

Laretrotienda on ebay

Is it just me, or is $80 crazy for this mod?

3 months later
#8785 3 years ago

Does anyone know where I can find the pinbits gumball led mod with white LEDs? They were out on their old site and I don’t see them on their new one,

#8792 3 years ago

Thanks, they’ve been out of the white version for a while and don’t reply to emails asking when they’ll have them back in stock.

Anyone have a good alternative in white?

4 weeks later
#8875 3 years ago
Quoted from bikefreak:

I did some more digging and found some signs point to yes. (at least for the lock gate) Sounds like it may only be some of the posts that get the washers. Not sure what that means for the inner part of the outer loop either. I have an early build (green lock; no 3rd mag) so I don't have the black spacers (but assume these washers were used before those were put into production)
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/a-newbie-restores-twilight-zone#post-2032446
Edit: I found some additional pictures pre-tear down. Some extra large zooming shows these spacer washers on all 4 legs of the lock assembly.
My theory on them (despite the threads about raising the lock to prevent bounce outs) is that when there is a threaded leg that gets bolted to the underside of the playfield gets a washer on both the top of the playfield and below. This prevents the top of the leg from digging into the playfield as the nut is tightened. That is why the inside wall of the outer loop also has them. There is no other reason to have that ball guide be raised.
I'm putting all 4 washers back on and will readdress if needed for any bounce outs if prevalent.

I use them on the lock and outer loop use to keep the guides from gouging the playfield. Having them in place has never caused me any issues...

#8887 3 years ago

Not too bad for the end of the 1st ball. =)

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#8906 3 years ago

Just curious, does anyone else have an issue with the skill shot where if the ball is launched hard, it hits one of the walls of the skill shot scoop, bounces around from hitting it, and then doesn't go down the scoop (which the game then registers as a yellow skill shot). Mine has done it, well, all 20 years that I've had it.

It's never bothered me as I always try for yellow, and soft misses go into the scoop. In college, a girl that I was swooning loved to pull the plunger as far back as it'd go so she could cheat and get yellow. It drove me up a wall, which she got much pleasure out of. I don't date cheaters, even if it's at pinball. Glad that relationship didn't get off the first floor.

#8921 3 years ago
Quoted from Tranquilize:

The covers are just as ugly, if not uglier, than the switches, so you're good as-is! Nobody looks at them, either way.

I don’t mind the original covers. But I’m not a mod guy either, my machine is relatively stock. Any other stockers out there? I have an ingo board, leds, and gumballs in the gumball machine. Otherwise, stock. I’m not a fan of a bunch of mods...

1 week later
#8963 3 years ago

I did this to mine, ran everything through the ultrasonic and used Teflon lube. While I don’t get the screeching noise of a neglected clock, it still makes enough noise to be heard with the glass on during a game. How quiet have people gotten theirs? Part of me wonders if the seats for the gears in the housing are worn out.

#8967 3 years ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

A properly lubed clock is still audible with the glass on but is has a nice controlled mechanical sound. One in the need of a lube job sounds painful like it is about to burst under stress. Clean and lube the gears with Teflon and I think you’ll be happy with the results.

When I bought my machine 20 years ago the clock squealed when moving. It was one of the first projects I tackled. It’s never done it since. I was hoping my recent clean/lube would quite it up more, but it did not. Doesn’t bother me really, just wondered if others have made theirs less noisy.

1 month later
#9055 3 years ago
Quoted from GeekedOnPinball:

Wow thanks for all the great info here. This is an amazing community. There is so much involved in this game that I may see if I can find a collector near them to take a look for me.

Where is the game at? Or to approach it the opposite way, I’m in Louisville, KY and can help if by chance the game is near me.

1 month later
#9167 3 years ago
Quoted from Compy:

3/4" sheet
Happy to help! Here's a CAD layout. Measurements are in mm.
[quoted image]

Man, I wish someone had that for CFTBL....

1 week later
#9253 3 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

What is this? I've never heard or seen nor experienced this?

I believe this is how it goes. When the camera award gives you “Collect Bonus”, the game volume increase. I believe it goes back to normal after the ball drains.

#9255 3 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Huh. Never experienced this..

Happens consistently on mine. I’m running 9.4h.

1 week later
#9299 3 years ago
Quoted from etien:

Well, did the same, never regretted. Make sure it’s working fine, understand the spiral and battle of power rules ( not only the window ones ) and you are there for a treat. If you like modding you are in heaven.

I try to get the spiral anytime it’s lit. It’s one of the sure fire ways to get battle the power, and eventually, an extra ball.

Dead end, I don’t go for that often even though in theory it’s a quicker way to an extra ball. Miss the shot and pay dearly.

I bought my TZ in the late 90s. Hard to believe I’ve owned it that long. It’s still the best game I own, or have ever owned. I love STTNG, but it’s no TZ. Even WOZ didn’t compare IMHO. I’ve only owned one Stern, a WOF, and while it was a damn fun game...again, it wasn’t the same caliber as TZ.

I got hooked on TZ at a local bowling alley. My friends and I played it so much that eventually it started having issues consistent with a routed, neglected machine. Eventually they replaced it with a Baywatch and we never went back to the place again...

#9308 3 years ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Yes I wouldn't suggest buying machines as an investment but it is certainly is nice that we're not losing money on machines. That said between the cost of mods and maintenance, there seems to be a constant stream of money flowing out of my wallet

I seem to lose money on almost every machine I sell. I tend to pay fair prices and do the same when I sell. Typically there’s a few hundred delta between the two, not in my favor.

Worse is when I buy a machine that needs work. The creech I just bought is a great example. Paid $5,200 for it and already have sunk $1k in it. I suspect I’ll drop another $500 to $1k on it. I’ll never get $7k for it. Oh well, it’ll be a super nice players machine when I’m done.

My TZ has increased in value faster than inflation, so there’s that. But, I think pinball is at peak prices like so many other luxuries. Eventually, I think prices will fall again. I bet we’ll see nice TZs in the sub-$6k range. Mine is flowing right now. That’ll change eventually, unfortunately.

#9340 3 years ago
Quoted from KJS:

Yeah I have had a look at substituion as well but not all there without changing. Keen to hear and use what you have done!
You can clean the originals up a small amount - it was really effective in my Bop orchestration....
I think you don't want ultra crisp clear personally as it sounds out of place as well...like one of the Cftbl mixes I tried.

I have to wonder. With access to the source code, would someone also have access to the original (uncompressed) sounds files?

#9367 3 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Toothpicks in metal roll-pins in PF, with toothpick between rubber and flipper bat.

This.

Yours looks good, glad to hear you fixed the slot scoop.

TZ is the baddest pinball of all time, IMHO. Enjoy!

1 week later
#9372 3 years ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

Lose that silly saucer?

What he said. Lol

Is anyone else a stock guy besides me? Almost all of my machines are dead stock, other than LEDs.

#9382 3 years ago
Quoted from pinster68:

I would think superglue (or any decent glue) would work fine.

Superglue leaves a white residue. Don’t ask me how I know...

I’d use epoxy.

#9386 3 years ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

I'd buy the new one. And don't forget to go into test and get the clock to 12 o clock before you take it apart so it's easier to replace in it's proper position.

What he said.

#9392 3 years ago
Quoted from bikefreak:

Found another oddity.
When launching a ball (or not I guess technically but that is the most likely case when it happens). Hit any of the skill shots (red/orange/yellow) switches. Then hold up the ball and 4 seconds later the slot coil fires twice. This will happen mid-ball as well.
If the ball gets to the rocket (it normally would in < 4sec) the slot coil doesn't fire at all. If the ball goes in the slot the slot fires normally. Slot is only acting up in this situation.
Skill shots & slot don't appear to be on the same row/col in the switch matrix. Not sure where to start.
Two other things on my list that I haven't looked at yet. (may or may not be related)
1) diverter (on ramp before the power field) flips twice sometimes. (when the ball is there) Flip to clear ball, then flip again 1-2sec later.
2) left sling during play will fire. Usually when other things around there are banging. (my guess but haven't checked yet is the switch gap may be too small and vibration is causing it)

For as long as I’ve had my machine, there is a random “double fire” of a solenoid somewhere in the game. I’ve never figured it out. The slot would make sense, as it’s not a mechanism that i can see. But I couldn’t prove it was the slot machine popper.

I’ll be interested to hear if others see this problem too.

#9394 3 years ago
Quoted from marspinball:

I also have this double firing solonoid going on for years. I also believe it's the slot machine. Have not bothered to diagnose it since it doesn't cause any game play issues.
I was thinking of maybe sticking a vid cam in the game and seeing if I could confirm it's the slot.

Glad to hear this isn’t just me. For the past 20 years of owning the game, I always assumed mine had some elusive, nagging hardware issue. Wonder if Soren would be willing to look at the code and confirm what sequence makes it happen. I swear mine is totally random, but it may be tied to the skill shot and I just never tied the two together in my head.

How many others would scramble on the first fire to look at things like the auto-plunger, ball return, etc. to try and determine which coil was firing? I like the idea of a camera to capture it happening.

Odd though, wonder why they’d program it to happen...

#9396 3 years ago

I wasn’t asking for any software fixes, it was more just to understand why it happens.

I hold the W/B software in high regard. However, there are some things like this that leave me scratching my head. Why not just wait for the normal ball search?

Anyhow, glad to have an understanding. It’s literally bugged me for two decades.

#9402 3 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Because, for money.
These games were made for a COMMERCIAL environment. That is, hey were made to MAKE MONEY. In case the slot machine scoop switch was bad, every time the ball would end up in the slot machine, the user would have to wait for the ball-search to start before getting the ball served back to them. They would get pissed off really quickly - every shot to Dead End, Camera, defeating The Power, Skillshot, and Piano. They would have to wait. And likely either walk away, or tell their friends not to play it.
There's no reason NOT to fire it if we know the ball is going to end up in the slot machine. (Like.. all those shots I just mentioned above.) This way, at least, the only time the player really has to wait is when they shoot the ball into the slot machine. ... As opposed.. every OTHER time.

Your argument doesn’t make sense. In every scenario other than the skill shot it needs to go into ball search if the slot machine scoop switch is bad, right? Are you suggesting that it should fire the slot scoop randomly every few seconds just in case the switch is bad?

#9406 3 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

No. You either didn't read, or I was too techy.

I read it but didn't understand your point of view on when it should fire. Anyhow.....do you (or does anyone) know if the same logic is coded in if you hit other shots like the piano, camera, etc.? I can run an experiment to see if nobody else has tried this / can verify.

1 month later
#9747 3 years ago
Quoted from dougram69:

I have NOS TZ clock boards, original NOS optos and everything you need to rebuild your TZ clock. See my marketplace ad. The indigo click board is great, but this is an original alternative if he is not responding.
Thanks
Dougram69

Where did you find the optos? I thought those were NLA a decade ago.

1 month later
#10059 3 years ago
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

I cleaned my TZ yesterday and while doing that I took the obligatory look at the balls (no, not THOSE). The metal ones look great; shiny, no noticeable dents or scratches. Then I inspected the white ceramic ball and realized that it had lots of small black "streaks" in the white finish that I haven't really seen before (about a year ago since I last gave the game a good cleaning).
I have no idea if it's white "paint" that has been scratched off the surface (is the ceramic ball black/grey-ish inside?) or what those dark streaks/marks are, but it does look kind of bad. The ceramic balls are rather expensive so while I could get a new one, that would probably also be ugly in a year or so if I don't find the reason.
I took a quick look at the playfield to try and find out where those marks could come from and realized that the two screws right behind the upper-right flipper could be the culprit. When I tested to launch a ball from the shooter, the ball would often bounce off one of those two screw heads before reaching the "rocket" kick-out below.
[quoted image]
At first I thought my metal ball guide perhaps was mounted wrong on my game but I had a look at other peoples TZ and saw they had the same position and screws as on mine (the pic above is originally taken from IPDB). The screws are the normal ones used for fastening of the ball guides.
Is this mounted wrong?
Should I try to find a screw with a flatter head, not protruding that much above the playfield surface?
Is the ceramic ball surface so hard that these screws can't really make any difference and the reason is something else?
Any suggestions or ideas?
Thanks

The powerball is ceramic, and the black marks you see on it is dirt embedded in nicks in the surface. It’s perfectly normal. The nicks come from normal play, highly likely not from the area you identified. The are a result of the ball hitting other exposed metal surfaces around the playfield.

Some people do replace at least one of the screw hears you identified. People put a post (or maybe two) there with a rubber. But they do that to slow the ball down when it’s headed to the rocket launch, to keep it from bouncing out after a skill shot. Attached is a pic from another thread, maybe someone has a better one. My machine is all stock, so I don’t have the mod (and my ball often bounces out of the rocket ship area).

I believe some people have had success cleaning the powerball. I personally haven’t tried to and just accept the slight discoloring.

https://images.pinside.com/0/b9/0b91814d04b73ddc25a2439adeef21477100ba7c/resized/large/0b91814d04b73ddc25a2439adeef21477100ba7c.jpg

pasted_image (resized).jpegpasted_image (resized).jpeg
#10090 3 years ago
Quoted from Davi:

In case of flasher activity*, the door panel flashers are also activated.
(*These 4 flashers)
Upper left insert, GUM -》upper left ramp flasher
Upper right insert, BALL -》upper right ramp flasher
Lower left insert, LOCK 1 -》pop bumpers flasher
Lower right insert, LOCK 2 -》upper right flipper flasher[quoted image]

Nice. Funny part is I can hear the sounds in my head as I watch that clip. One of the best jackpot sounds in pinball, gives me the goose bumps to this day.

1 week later
#10154 3 years ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Yes mine was the same when I tore it down. I didn't replace it (was told it wasn't needed) but interested to see what others have to say

Same, I just left the old stuff in place. Anyone know why they put it there?

1 month later
#10269 2 years ago
Quoted from atg1469:

I reached out multiple times to no avail. By all accounts that I've heard, he is in fact done but without speaking to the man himself it's all hearsay at this point.

Glad I got his board while I could. But it also sounds like there are viable alternatives out there. Maybe that's why he's not selling them anymore, the market is saturated and he already catered to a lot of the collectors.

1 year later
#12566 1 year ago
Quoted from Tranquilize:

Just fix the old board. It's probably one of the easiest boards to fix in all of pinball.

Are you referring to the clock boards? I thought the optos were impossible to source?

#12570 1 year ago
Quoted from Tranquilize:

There are jaycar optos that will work. Mine were just dirty, and I reflowed them.

Can you identify the part number or send a link?

#12571 1 year ago
Quoted from PinJim:

Can you identify the part number or send a link?

Never mind, I think I found it.

https://www.jaycar.com.au/photo-interrupter/p/ZD1901

#12589 1 year ago
Quoted from noitbe1:

I got the same message as well. No response to my email asking if it was ready to ship.
They answered me at first because I said I will open a paypal dispute ...

Damn, glad I got mine when I did. Why wouldn't he sell his IP rights to someone else and at least get more boards on the market?

Related to the Ingo board - anyone know what LEDs he used on the boards? One of mine if flaking out. I'd prefer to keep a non-rainbow color in mine, either incandescent-like or whiter....

TIA

1 week later
#12623 1 year ago
Quoted from marspinball:

I use a staple remover. Slowly wiggle under each side of chip and come right out.
[quoted image]

I use a small screwdriver, a little bit on each side until the chip pops out. Sometimes pins bend a little but not so bad that I can’t bend them back.

2 months later
#13037 1 year ago

I’m having an odd problem with my TZ. It start with the dreaded “clock broken” error. I went into the clock test and noted that the 45 minute opto was stuck closed.

During gameplay the right ramp diverted would randomly activate. Getting closer, seems to be related to row 3 of the matrix. The left orbit and right ramp optos are intermittent, mostly working, but jitter at times. The 45 opto is broken for the most part, but does work at times.

I have an Ingo board, for what that’s worth.

I haven’t begun troubleshooting it outside of identifying row 3 as the commonality between the 3 optos.

#13041 1 year ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Check ALL switches - optos will show closed when the row's 'broken', but other switches will NOT record 'closed' when pressed. See how normal switchs are acting in that row.

The other ones act normal. Aside from the right ramp and left orbit jittering occasionally.

#13049 1 year ago
Quoted from PinJim:

The other ones act normal. Aside from the right ramp and left orbit jittering occasionally.

In playing with my game a bit last night, my switch issue goes beyond just row 3. I assume my 12V supply needs work. Regardless, the driver board caps need replaced so I’ll start there. Hopefully that’s it….

1 week later
#13068 1 year ago

Man I despise snap caps. I find it hard to believe that anyone can consistently remove them without trashing the though holes. 25 years of board work and almost every time, they pull out. This time I tried the “rocking” method, heat one side and wiggle it out a bit, move to the other side and do the same, repeat until it’s out - with the through hole still attached. That’s after many attempts with the Hakko 808, which never completely loosened it.

Anyhow, jumpers don’t bother me. All new caps installed, including the smaller ones. Should be good for 20 years or so…

I upgraded to the EZSBC voltage regulator too.
CF8D0D58-4A33-4576-9110-59CCE19FCF75 (resized).jpegCF8D0D58-4A33-4576-9110-59CCE19FCF75 (resized).jpeg1CF0018A-142C-4346-9112-0657A5C40551 (resized).jpeg1CF0018A-142C-4346-9112-0657A5C40551 (resized).jpegB9AFE755-B73B-4F41-8461-6C7A7DD85916 (resized).jpegB9AFE755-B73B-4F41-8461-6C7A7DD85916 (resized).jpeg9976BA8A-E6B2-4612-AC92-A4034EE86C30 (resized).jpeg9976BA8A-E6B2-4612-AC92-A4034EE86C30 (resized).jpeg

#13071 1 year ago

Just a friendly reminder to put your batteries remote or install NVRAM.

Many, many years ago (a decade, just guessing) my batteries leaked. I used vinegar to neutralize it and put in NVRAM. Problem solved, or so I thought.

This week, my switches went haywire. Mainly row 3, but other rows had sporadic errors too. I assumed my 12V unregulated supply was struggling due to the colordmd and the fact that a lot of optos seemed to be involved. Replaced all of the caps on my driver board, problem persisted. No regrets, it needed done anyhow.

I pulled the CPU and the problem was obvious. The alkaline wasn’t totally neutralized. The solder joints for R27 through R30 looked like shit. A quick test with the meter showed no continuity between R28 and the LM339. Ugh.

For now, I put in a jumper to fix the issue, and all is working. But, it’s a matter of time before more issues pop up. I love keeping my machines original, but the CPU may be on its last leg. The damage extends beyond the resistors, unfortunately.

In short, get your batteries off the CPU board. I spent a better part of today chasing my tail over some silly alkaline damage.

#13080 1 year ago
Quoted from monkfe:

Chris Hibler has a great youtube video on how he removes these caps using a wide blade soldering tip...but the concept is that they need to be heated up at the same time...I didn't want to purchase the high end blade tip as they're really expensive so I use my desoldering gun along with my regular soldering tip and heat both the legs at the same time(two people help here) and they pretty much just fall right out...(I add some solder to them first to get the heat moving better)try this next time...

Hibler is obviously an expert at his craft, no doubt. I dunno though. The snap caps put a lot of force on the through holes even when the solder is liquified. Oh well, I've made it standard practice to add jumpers, regardless of how well things went. Call it insurance.

My post hopefully can help others in illustrating where the jumpers need to go for a WPC-89 driver board.

Ugh, I ordered a replacement CPU from Pinball Basement before reading about the unlikelyhood of me ever getting what I ordered - and if I do get it, will it work? Wishing I would have done my research first. My CPU works, but the alkaline damage has taken its toll.

1 week later
#13108 1 year ago
Quoted from The_Pump_House:

I got a driver board from pinball basement. I guess I got lucky as it was quite nice

I’ve emailed them twice, no response. I’ll likely file a claim with my credit card company in a week or so. Or they could just reply to me so I don’t have to do that. Ugh.

4 months later
#13717 12 months ago
Quoted from Flato:

Thanks will try that once the new fuse comes in, any thoughts on why i blew the fuse after unpluging and repluging the connectors? Maybe just something i did not reconnect quite right?

The game resetting could be a lot of things. I'd recommend starting here:
https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_WPC#Game_resets

Too bad you're not closer. I need a deep project game to work on. TZ is a beast to shop - it took me almost 24 hours.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/price-to-shop-a-tz

If you were closer I'd take it on. Fix all of the bugs and bullet proof it while I was in there. It's a labor of love, but once it's done, my experience has been the games run trouble free for a long time. That seems to hold true for most platforms - WPC, System 7, Whitestar, etc.

"Shopping" them isn't cheap though. Rebuilding all of the mechs, caps and select headers on the boards, etc....

1 month later
#13993 10 months ago

I “rainbow puked” my TZ years ago and finally am ready to undo all of that. I’d like an LED that mimics incandescent as much as possible, not a washed out white bulb. Does anyone have a recommendation for a quality LED that looks like an incandescent?

#14032 10 months ago
Quoted from GILV:

My TZ's spiral optos don't work, not even on switch test.
They started by acting out really crazy, alway activating during game play and after a few games, nothing......
Could it be the optos board? the auto plunger opto beside the plunger works great.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.

Do the other switch on column 8 work? The lock switches will be easiest to test....

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
#14035 10 months ago
Quoted from GILV:

I don't know what happened between 45 minutes ago and now but I just turned the game on and everything works on test, maybe something gets hot on the opto board after a few games and the 2 spiral magnets don't work after......
I'll do some more playing and I'll see.
Thanks for chiming in, I appreciate it.

For what it's worth, I had a very similar problem recently with my clock optos (Ingo board). They'd act up and eventually quit altogether. In my case, there was very old battery damage on my CPU that finally ate through a trace. I jumpered it out for now. Longer term I need to replace the board.....

Of course, what you describe could be a handful of other issues and not battery damage.

#14037 10 months ago
Quoted from GILV:

Thanks for the heads up, I checked and no battery acid damage what so ever on the CPU.
I've been having a few small issues that seem to come and go since I installed some connectors to remove my PF more easilly.....
If these small issues keep up, I'll remove those connectors and put it like it was originally after clearcoating my cabinet in a few weeks.
[quoted image]

Or if you want to keep them, do the old wiggle test. Put it in switch test and wiggle the wires around and see if anything is flaky. Kinda like the "pound on the playfield" test that I've used so many times over the years....

I've been so lucky with my TZ, it's been a rock aside from the CPU damage.

#14041 10 months ago
Quoted from PinJim:

Or if you want to keep them, do the old wiggle test. Put it in switch test and wiggle the wires around and see if anything is flaky. Kinda like the "pound on the playfield" test that I've used so many times over the years....
I've been so lucky with my TZ, it's been a rock aside from the CPU damage.

I say my game is a rock, and it has been. I’ve owned it for well over 20 years, my pride and joy.

The actuator wire for my powerfield diverter broke last week. I replaced it today. Damn pinball, where it takes an hour to replace one little part. At least I’ve learned over the years to not rush and do things like put rags under where your working to catch the parts that fall down as your are trying to origami your hand to get them back in place, lol.

My boys are 7 and 9 - and are really starting to dig TZ. It makes me so happy!

IMG_9179 (resized).jpegIMG_9179 (resized).jpeg
2 weeks later
#14076 9 months ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

I am a big fan of Polk Audio powered subwoofers. I recently added one to my Indy Jones, and I have one for TZ too. They really add depth and plenty of base to the standard speakers. If you are looking for ways to improve the audio, it’s worth a try!

I did the same and it’s worth the addition. The room rumbles with TZ. I have one on my STTNG and Houdini too. Surprisingly, it has the least effect on Houdini….

1 month later
#14259 7 months ago

I found the 12V limitations on my TZ. Apparently colordmd and two LED strips is too much and blows the fuse. Guess it’s time for an external power supply. Bummer as I don’t want to add more mods, but I want the LED strips in the trough and above the back of the playfield.

#14261 7 months ago
Quoted from jrcmlc:

Nah just put in a bigger fuse.
Lol. Kidding.

Well I’m an idiot. I thought my LED strips were 12v, they are 6.3V. Thus, I wired them to GI and it’s all good.

I have a box of LED strips and generally don’t know how to tell the voltage for each one. The only reason I know these are 6.3V is clearly the are the commet diffused versions.

2 weeks later
#14323 7 months ago

Fixing some battery damage to my CPU. Unfortunately, the chip was already socketed (old repair) and the socket didn’t come out gracefully. And a few traces are severed, which was causing switch matrix issues. I think I can fix it….

7FC8C763-9428-41BE-AD81-F5B9B39EFE38 (resized).jpeg7FC8C763-9428-41BE-AD81-F5B9B39EFE38 (resized).jpegC9CD7FB6-087F-4177-8BB1-128C9B614BCA (resized).jpegC9CD7FB6-087F-4177-8BB1-128C9B614BCA (resized).jpeg
#14325 7 months ago
Quoted from jrcmlc:

If not, reach out to DumbAss he likely has what you need.

I have two of his blank CPU boards, just haven’t taken the time to populate them. I enjoy trying to fix the olds ones anyhow.

#14327 7 months ago
Quoted from jrcmlc:

10-4.
Just for anyone else reading this, DumbAss does sell complete ready to install boards as well.

Any idea how much a WPC CPU costs?

#14332 7 months ago
Quoted from Enron64:

Hey all,
I recently moved and sold my entire pinball collection. I am about to jump back in as I have my new house now. I have never owned a dmd pin and for the most part have only owned new sterns and JJPs. I haven't had a lot of time on TZ, but have always enjoyed it. My question to owners of TZ and games like the ones I have owned is will the code of this game hold my interest or will this game grow old fast?

I've owned mine for 20 years. It hasn't gotten old yet.....

Then again, I joke that I'll be buried in it someday. So there's that.

#14341 7 months ago

Does a WPC CPU board component layout exist? I’m trying to figure out the capacitor designation and value for the one circled below. I think it’s C31, 100uf, but not 100% sure, and there aren’t any markings on the board.

15B36737-B8C8-4EEB-B4A4-1371E97DAB63 (resized).jpeg15B36737-B8C8-4EEB-B4A4-1371E97DAB63 (resized).jpeg
#14349 7 months ago
Quoted from bakerhillpins:

Nope... C31 is actually in your pic though. Probably .1uf 50v.
[quoted image]

Ha, thanks! Not sure why I didn’t go looking for C31 on the board. I have a whole bag of .1uf caps, so I should be in good shape.

#14365 6 months ago
Quoted from PinJim:

Fixing some battery damage to my CPU. Unfortunately, the chip was already socketed (old repair) and the socket didn’t come out gracefully. And a few traces are severed, which was causing switch matrix issues. I think I can fix it….
[quoted image][quoted image]

Finally finished cleaning up my CPU battery damage. I had to add a LOT of jumpers on the back of the board. It’s a pita adding jumpers to the LM339 without bridging it to adjacent pins. Oh well, done and it’s back to 100%.

59541DC2-631C-4AA9-A671-DB0C02A124D2 (resized).jpeg59541DC2-631C-4AA9-A671-DB0C02A124D2 (resized).jpeg742EFDB2-B720-40AF-8A8F-6698D83C3573 (resized).jpeg742EFDB2-B720-40AF-8A8F-6698D83C3573 (resized).jpeg
#14368 6 months ago
Quoted from slochar:

Smaller jumpers would have helped a lot here. I like the kynar type wire for low voltage/current apps like this. I have a mpu board from a game that someone previously used A LOT of jumpers (like 40-50) as someone lifted SO MANY pads when doing god knows what. My fault, did not inspect back of mpu board when I bought the game.... went to update to nvram, flipped board over and saw that mess.... yuck.... got replacement from weebly good to go

I used what I had at the house. It works. Down the road I may do a nicer repair if the current one causes issues.

I have an odd issues where the ball drains, it starts the bonus, then reverts back to the same ball in play. Jiggle the machine a bit and the ball truly ends. Guessing I have a switch issue in the trough. Always something…

1 month later
#14520 5 months ago
Quoted from sizzler747:

I was hoping someone could help me out. My clock just started acting up today. It will work properly when a mode has started, then after a few seconds it resets back to 12:00 like it thinks the ball drained. Any ideas what is going on? I have the Caspers LED board and it is only 6 months old.

Does it generate a credit dot?

Does the machine end the mode or end the ball when it occurs?

#14522 5 months ago
Quoted from sizzler747:

No, the mode or the ball does not end. Just the clock.

Stating the obvious, sounds like a clock error. Although I thought the clock just stopped when there was an error.

Is the machine showing a credit dot / error after it occurs?

#14543 5 months ago

Just curious, if TZ is re-made, will it have node boards and other generally unserviceable boards like newer Sterns?

I haven't watched, but assume original MM have held their value? I'd take a nice original all day long over a remake. But then again, I'm a WPC fan....

#14545 5 months ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Pretty much, yeah. They wouldn't re-use WPC hardware. Especially not when they can add more color-blasting LEDs to everything, to make you forget you're playing a game based on a black & white TV show.

At some point I'd like to look at how the re-makes are made. Do they have large boards with LEDs mounted on them that illuminate the inserts? I ask because I have a slot machine like that and 1 LED died. That dead LED prevents the LEDs downstream from working. Try as I might, I can't find a scrap board so it is what it is. It's the topper for the slot, so no huge deal. I'm not paying $50+ for a topper just to get the LEDs working.

Needless to say, I shy away from all newer games with node boards, proprietary crap that can't be repaired. I find it frustrating that pinball went that route.

#14569 5 months ago
Quoted from GILV:

Turned on my TZ before bed yesterday and all 3 optos worked for about 30 seconds, then, on switche edge test, they went crazy for 3 seconds and nothing afterwards, so, conclusion? I'm buying a new board, I would've liked to know which part of the board controls the green/gray wire to repair it, but that seems impossible.
Thanks for the help everyone, I appreciate it.

Have you checked your CPU for battery damage? I had a similar issue that was due to a trace that finally gave way due to battery leakage (from a decade ago). It manifested itself as opto problems initially (why, I'm not sure). I had to pull the CPU and fix all that, and now it's back in business.

#14572 5 months ago
Quoted from GILV:

I checked for battery damage and nothing, checked the opto transmitters with my camera and I can see the blue lights, but I found out that my LED1 has a broken leg. Could that cause opto flickering?
The game was on switch edge test mod and kept going crazy even when I did'nt touch a thing, when it went crazy, I'd check if optos registered and they did, then it went crazy again and no optos worked and so on and so forth.
[quoted image]

That broken leg sure looks like battery damage - - - the green specifically. What board is that?

Edit: can you send a pic of your CPU? The bottom area is what I'd like to see, everything below the square chip.

#14576 5 months ago
Quoted from GILV:

That's the opto board, maybe the cap leaked from under it?
Here are pictures of the CPU:
[quoted image][quoted image]

No obvious battery damage. What's the item circled in red??

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
#14590 5 months ago

I wonder why that specific cap leaks? I’m not sure if I’ve ever seen another cap leak. This thread motivated me though, I ordered a new cap for my board.

#14594 5 months ago
Quoted from GILV:

I went and bought one at a local store for 1.50$ CAD.

Not something I can easily source here. Wish there was an electronics component store, but there are none that I’m aware of…

#14599 5 months ago
Quoted from iEatHands:

The same cap (100uf 35V) on the clock motor board blew in my game last year.

I bought (5) of them, so I'll replace that one too.

I believe STTNG has a 470uf cap that is on its opto board. Not sure if that cap has the same issue, but I bought a few just in case.

For once, all of my games are working 100%. So, I need to find something to work on. Might as well replace caps! =)

1 week later
#14613 5 months ago

Did a little preemptive maintenance this morning. Replaced the (2) 100uf caps that seeming leak. One on the opto driver board, and the other one on the clock motor driver board.

I *think* those (2) caps are the most likely to leak? I have seen numerous posts over the years of damaged opto driver boards. It seems odd; leaky caps haven’t been an issue in my decades of pinball repair.

Loving my Hakko 808 this morning. Made for a simple, damaged free job.

IMG_0638 (resized).jpegIMG_0638 (resized).jpegIMG_0639 (resized).jpegIMG_0639 (resized).jpegIMG_0640 (resized).jpegIMG_0640 (resized).jpegIMG_0642 (resized).jpegIMG_0642 (resized).jpegIMG_0646 (resized).jpegIMG_0646 (resized).jpegIMG_0645 (resized).jpegIMG_0645 (resized).jpegIMG_0650 (resized).jpegIMG_0650 (resized).jpeg
#14615 5 months ago
Quoted from GILV:

Good thinking, in my case, both of those 2 boards gave me problems with the cap, one leaked a few weeks ago and other cap on the motor driver board exploded, the one that exploded damaged the board to a point where it does'nt work at all anymore, had to buy a replacement.

I think I got lucky, neither of mine leaked or exploded. Did the same for my STTNG opto board.

The WPC vintage games are fun to keep running. Most older games are, no stinking node board!

#14616 5 months ago

I think I asked this in the past but never got an answer.

I have an Ingo clock board that has a bad LED. Anyone know the manufacturer and part number? I don’t see anything on the LED itself.

And yes, my hands need lotion, lol.

IMG_0663 (resized).jpegIMG_0663 (resized).jpegIMG_0664 (resized).jpegIMG_0664 (resized).jpeg
#14626 5 months ago

I wrote Ingo and got the following reply on what LEDs were used on the clock board:
LED Super Flux, 7,62x7,62m.m, warmweiss, 900-1200mcd, 180°, 30mA

Finding them now, that’s a whole different issue. But it does give some basis for finding a viable replacement.

#14638 5 months ago

Well, my Ingo clock board LEDs are back up and running.

I took a chance ordered (20) LEDs from the website below - (10) warm white, and (10) cool white. I put the warm white LEDs in and it's working. Yeah! So these are viable replacements, or seem to be.

https://lighthouseleds.com/

I'm going to re-assemble my clock and will let it get some run time to make sure nothing burns up.

Man I'm glad I found something that works. And now I have ample spares on hand, all for a whopping $10.80 (which includes shipping).

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

Edit: the cool whites work too
IMG_0673 (resized).jpegIMG_0673 (resized).jpeg

#14639 5 months ago

Here’s the machine with the warm white. I find it a bit too yellow. I may swap them out for cool white, but not today. That clock is a pain to remove.

IMG_0674 (resized).jpegIMG_0674 (resized).jpeg
#14643 5 months ago
Quoted from jchristian11:

Are your GI bulbs LEDs in your game?

Yes

#14650 5 months ago

Here’s the Ingo board with the cool white LEDs. A bit too blue for my taste. So now the search is on for something not so yellow, and not so blue. I don’t see any good options on the site that I provided. Maybe somewhere else….

IMG_0675 (resized).jpegIMG_0675 (resized).jpegIMG_0677 (resized).jpegIMG_0677 (resized).jpeg
#14663 5 months ago

Was sorting a bunch of my old pinball parts this morning and found this. Has to be a dozen of them in the box. Score!

72028294009__5E10EE92-A285-4331-80B4-3806DD385F7A (resized).jpeg72028294009__5E10EE92-A285-4331-80B4-3806DD385F7A (resized).jpeg
4 weeks later
#14720 4 months ago
Quoted from Coyote:

There are references here where folks have had to use a magnet affixed to the cage. If you search for that, it may come up with some more details. (I personally have never needed to in my game, so I don't know the magnet types folks have used.)

I added a magnet to the diverter many moons ago. Works like a charm, unless it's the powerball, of course...

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