(Topic ID: 63352)

Twilight Zone Owner's club

By Caucasian2Step

10 years ago


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Topic Stats

  • 15,221 posts
  • 946 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 hours ago by pjflyer
  • Topic is favorited by 501 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

8 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #5897 Updated 9.4H manual with corrections from Coyote Posted by Coyote (5 years ago)

Post #8716 Have your picture taken in the translight Posted by Neal_W (3 years ago)

Post #10381 Switching to stereo sound. Posted by hawknole (2 years ago)

Post #11803 How to Add 3rd Magnet. Posted by mbaumle (2 years ago)

Post #11810 Third Magnet Parts List Posted by mbaumle (2 years ago)

Post #13048 Board replacement options. Posted by DumbAss (1 year ago)

Post #14049 Flipper cabinet opto board data Posted by DumbAss (10 months ago)

Post #14166 More key board data Posted by DumbAss (9 months ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#7265 4 years ago

Does anyone have experience with the one from pinballdecals.eu? They say in there description that theirs let more light through than other reproductions. But of course anyone can claim that...

But being located in the EU myself, I was thinking about trying it.

https://pinballdecals.eu/shop/twilight-zone-pinball-translite/

1 week later
#7291 4 years ago

Start by checking the 5V supply at the test point, and then at U6. They should be almost identical, and above or very close to 5V

1 week later
#7332 4 years ago

I had the error with the flickering led also on the same board.

Had to take it apart and change all of the LEDs, as the ones I had lying around was a little different color temperature than those already in the board. Actually turned out even better than the original replacement board LEDs, as the color temperature (warm white to go with my original incandescent GI) and spread is near perfect. Makes the clock seem pretty evenly lit, and not as if it is from the 4 corners. So although it was really annoying having to change the led in a pretty new replacement board, at least it turned out alright

3 weeks later
#7371 4 years ago

This guy have a lot of teardown pictures of various machines. Unfortunately the viewer implemented isn't the best, but perhaps you can use it anyway:

http://www.weirpinball.com/gallery/index.php/Teardown-pics/Williams-Bally-DMDs/Twilight-Zone

3 weeks later
#7409 4 years ago

Does it fire with full power when it goes up, or only slowly?

3 weeks later
#7518 4 years ago

I think that perhaps the correct sounds are already in the Pinsound package, but just not being played. I think that originally the 4-5 booms in the end of the jackpot jingle are 2 or more different sounds played at once. And perhaps the Pinsound board and the arcade version only plays one of the sounds.

As far as i can tell, i think that if you mix the 1117896962-jackpot_score_pt_2_ sound from the original TZ Pinsound archive with the boom sound, you would be a lot closer? And ofcourse you would then have to overwrite the existing boom sound with the new mixed/combined sound in the package (correct folder).

So in short i dont think you have to rip anything, but do some fiddling with the existing sounds.

1 month later
#7708 4 years ago
Quoted from alistaircg:

I made myself the following mods in the pictures

Looks like an awesome lot of work. Very nicely done!!

2 months later
#8122 4 years ago

When you pull out those transistors, have you tested them out of circuit to see if they are actually shorted?

#8133 4 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

The transistor was
Just the most Logical place to start, since the issue affects the whole row and it was suddenly an issue out of nowhere. This is really pissing me off!

Remember to always check components when you remove them. I get how the transistor would be the logical place to start, and maybe it even measures a little "weird" when in circuit. But i always double check components i remove, as they sometimes turn out to be just fine. And then you know you have to look elsewhere, and can rule out that component.

1 month later
#8423 4 years ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

Absolutely. Saved me a ton of trouble on replacing a few plastics on TZ. I bought a bunch of ebay for cheap a while back. Even on something very visible like the signs on the upper pf, you will never notice the difference between these and rivets.

Would you happen to have a link for those specific screws?

2 weeks later
#8578 4 years ago
Quoted from Twister:

Here in germany they are known for poor quality copies.

The same goes for Denmark. Everyone will tell you to avoid most of their products. Most of it is poorly made copies of others products. Especially their plastics looks terrible. The colors are all wrong, and the images is blurry and fuzzy.

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