The clock base is sold on Australian pinball parts if you want to by it to make a clock assembly https://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/01-11337.html
Quoted from jjoravec:$500 seems a bit much for the clock.
(Topic ID: 63352)
Linked Games
Twilight Zone
Bally, 1993
Topic Gallery
You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider Parker_tz.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
Does any one have cabinet decals I want to restore my cabinet. And don’t want to spend 250 for decals
2 weeks later
On my Twilight zone about half the time I skill shot the ball into the rocket it bounces out. It does not ever launch it just hits the ball Guide and falls out. It is nothing to do with the adjustable ball Guide because I set it right in the middle of the hitchhiker under the mini playfield. Does any one have any tips of how to fix it?
On my twilight Zone I have a 3 slot coin door. The coin door mech closest to the lock gets stuck on the lock down reciviver yellow lever when the lever is flipped in the open position and you close the coin door. Is their any way to stop it from getting stuck because every time it happens I have to lift the playfield and fiddle the lock down reciver lever out of the coin slots. Is my coin door the wrong one does this happen to two slot coin doors? Is this normal on Williams WPC games?
70EF13C6-D9AA-43DD-B22C-8FFCD84F11C3 (resized).jpegD885BB14-EC3D-43DC-9FDB-94B9CF53A0B8 (resized).jpegE58CD0A1-A5A8-467C-9E2F-F1B03AACFC98 (resized).jpeg 1 week later
I found some of them
Here are some lamp pcbs
https://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/catalogsearch/result/?q=Lamp+pcb
Here is the shooter gate
https://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/a-16965p.html
Here is the switch plate assembly
https://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/parts-by-machine/williams-parts/bram-stoker-s-dracula/c-11615.html
Their is a mod apron or alternative apron at pinballdecals
https://www.pinballdecals.com/PartsByGamePages/TZ_Page.html#
3 weeks later
Hello I want to make my Sample game into a prototype game. do you guys know if the revision p.3 game rom has lost and zone and power ball mania. also what features would I loss if I downgraded. Would a gain any features removed in production?
Thank you parker
Quoted from Coyote:No. "P" ROM revisions were not "Prototype", they were "Preliminary". All the prototype features (which in software really was only the 3-Magnet control) were taken out before then. "Preliminary" software was sent out on Sample and early Production games.
https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=2684
Here it does say it is a prototype rom. I want the gum ball sign to give you spiral award and the camera to do the jackpot on top of camara too. Just like the early prototype games.
Thank you Parker
3 weeks later
3 weeks later
Easy you just need the decal set. You can pop out the insert and remove or sand off then existing decal and put on the new one and glue it back into the playfield. Found the video on youtube.
https://www.ministryofpinball.com/en/twilight-zone-insert-decals.html
Someone sells the side art on pinside
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1073-sillyoldelf-mods/01073-twilight-zone-custom-high-resolution-playfield-decals
3 weeks later
1 month later
HomePin makes I nice repro 10 opto board that I have a in my machine. Very close to the original with the components.
1 week later
1 week later
If I was to buy a high power interlock switch harness would it work in a early production tz running 9.4h ROMs. Would both the message pop up and the coils disable or no?
Thank you Parker
1 week later
When ever the gum-ball diverter fires during gameplay it makes a very loud Gragrtger sound. During the Solenoid test it does not make the noise but during the test the coil does not hold open so It had to do with the diverter being held open. However during gameplay it fires every time and is consistent with the bad noise it only fails to fire after LITZ. Is the Solenoid bad? I am someone who gets lost in zone in one of every 3 games I play. After the lost in zone is completed only half the time the gumball diverted opens so it takes 4-5 tries to refill the gumball machine rather Then 3. It is annoying to have to wait so long after a LITZ. Is this an issue with the diverter Solenoid? Should I replace the coil?
Thank you, Parker
Twister is a pinsider search him up on pinside and send him a email thought pinside.
https://pinside.com/pinball/community/pinsiders/twister
1 week later
Quoted from Nysbadmk8:Anyone know where to obtain a GLM Switch kit?
I would replace your gi connectors and your header pins. I would check fuses f106-f110 and make sure they are valued correctly. I would try putting a working led into a gi light that is not working if that fixes it then your bulbs are burnt out. I believe what is out is marked in the manual as mini playfield and insert. I would check the voltage on drive transistor Q10.
Good luck
1 week later
Quoted from HC2016:Tech question if anyone could help ...
Trouble : balls not loading into shooter lane .
Ckd all switches , no faults anywhere .
Narrowed it down to a defective proximity switch in the trough
(Failing intermittently)
Removed the 2 small boards that hold the sensor . Bench tested and working as designed.
Anyone ever have this problem or know anything about this ?
Solder on the wires to the proximity boards to get them to work all the time. The proximity boards just tell the game if it is a powerball of a regular ball. I think it is a ball shooter lane feeder assembly issue. The proximity boards could be another issue. Do a solenoid test and see if the feeder coil fires also check if the spring fell off.
6AEB8C40-BB97-437A-BC01-F3D8F29F1776 (resized).jpeg 2 weeks later
I am redecaling my twilight zone. Since I only have one game I made a dumb decision because I wanted to play pinball. I set up my game on a pool table with no cabinet. It works for 5 games then since my harness were close to gather and not screwed down my start button and interface board I believe is what leads touched to blow my f116 fuse and short my column 1 on my switch matrix. At first the game acted mostly dead then I realized that I blew fuse f116. I had a spare fuse of the proper value so I replaced it then found out I had the switch matrix column 1 issue. I have not ordered anything yet for this from Great Plains for this project but what do I need to get other then a u20 ic and socket will that fix the short or do i need to also do/ buy anything else? Has any fixed this problem before?
I learned my lesson that I have to play the game in the cabinet and just wait when I do a restore.
Thank you so much Parker
4 weeks later
Quoted from Rydhia:Looks like I’m missing a lamp. I was going to get one of those spiral signs and noticed I didn’t have the socket to attach to.
I can run one, but I’m not sure what it will connect to. I can run off the power ball insert, but wanted to see if anyone knows where it normally hooks up to.
[quoted image]
That light if for the spiral if you do not have the original wiring then run it off the orange spiral insert. The factory wires come from under the mini playfield just like the mini playfield top right opto. You may find the wires cut under the mini playfield.
3 months later
Quoted from GeekedOnPinball:Should have started here. I’m looking at buying a HUO 2nd owner Twilight Zone, will have to buy it remote and ship it. What do I have photographed or do I need to see a video of before buying it? The gum-ball machine and what else? I know I need to look at the batteries in the back box to make sure they haven’t leaked. The play field and cabinet look nice. This is a dream machine for me I don’t want to screw this up. Also is there anything part wise that you can no longer get?
Also look for missing parts that are hard to find or would need to be custom made. Like ball guides missing or subways missing or any credit dots that are not simple such as clock or gum-ball or switch 26 credit dots. Also make sure the decals are not faded unless cosmetics do not bother you. Playfields made be Lenc sync or LS may have planking make sure the playfield is not planking. Playfields made be Tomas a grant or TAG have a issue where the red fades. Sun process or SP holds up the best you can see the maker under the apron. Ask for a photo under the playfield check for hacks on mech or wiring harness or rust on metal parts under the playfield. Look if it has leds is it has cracked rubbers. If so you should put in leds and new rubbers when you buy and also put in new balls. look at the boards make sure they are free from acid damage and hacks. Most parts are obtainable but look out for missing parts some can be expensive. Ball guides, 2 out of the 3 subways, apron, and wireforms are unobtainable. Clock and gum-ball assemblys are expensive hard to find or unobtainable. Make sure the clock housing is not shattered it is out of stock everywhere.
The issue with my game is my clock housing is shattered and I can not find a new or nos clear one anywhere and I am doing a full restoration. If anyone has a spare one pm me.
1 week later
I have almost completed my cabinet restore and playfield swap. I am looking for a new or nos clear clock housing that is sold in the us or a pinsider has. I am also looking for twilight zone mini playfield switch covers that are factory pre cut for twilight zone. Also I want a few yellow bulb covers that are the right color and thickness the ones from Marco and pinball life are thin and I got ones at the expo that had a orange tint to them so any original used or nos ones I would buy. Also I swapped j901 and j502 connectors by accident and blew my cpu blanking circuit my d19 light is stuck on and my game does not boot any ideas on chips to replace so I don’t have to send my cpu out?
Thank you, parker
1 month later
That is normal for a twilight zone you can put any adhesive backed neodymium magnet on the side of the diverter. Round ones are fine too.
Quoted from ceterumnet:I was having problems where it was ejecting balls sideways 25% of the time
D69E404F-8928-4939-9622-F8C3C4C7F08D (resized).png 1 week later
Quoted from AD72:I moved and the only good space for my TZ is by the window. Does anyone know of a cover I could get?
[quoted image]
Maybe try something like this https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gila-36-in-x-120-in-Gray-Glare-Control-Window-Film-10389340/203807951
https://www.decorativefilm.com/ultracool-ir8360-ir-and-uv-blocking-solar-film
Or any uv blocking film
Or just move the game
3 weeks later
My Twilight Zone restore is almost done. Faded to great
2AC307CC-5D38-4610-A244-52FC3BBF8CFF (resized).jpegE96EFE5E-7791-42BC-BA97-AB005BE28821 (resized).jpeg5EAD6536-41C5-4A30-90F2-425491ECF515 (resized).jpegABBA3707-0F17-46F9-97F2-A1674597840C (resized).jpegA7910654-81E8-451B-B627-410A3B51774F (resized).jpeg844D92F8-8748-4886-B17A-558EFD93DF9F (resized).jpegF5E1451E-EEBE-4551-9BD7-39D5711D6FC8 (resized).jpegFE9C9160-B670-4F14-8521-0A0863CD4BBE (resized).jpeg03425965-26B7-4A41-9010-9861A2A4C122 (resized).jpegQuoted from RobbyIRL5:Having a bad day with dots on my WPC machines. My gumball Geneva switch is err’ing (per picture). Pulled the manual and don’t really see a good picture of what I’m looking for. The switch is open, and it’s showing in the manual as under the playfield. Is this an opto or regular switch, should it be open, and is this a common issue?
[quoted image]
It is normally open and it is a microswitch not a opto.
This might help
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tz-s-geneva-switch
Or this
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tz-gumball-geneva-switch
Quoted from Manny65:Wow that's come up well - congrats on the job! Like the black trim ... was the PF restored or replaced with a repro?
Thanks It is a great condition used one that is not restored it had a playfield protester that might of been factory but it was pealing up so I removed it.
Quoted from yzfguy:That black trim looks really sleek
Thanks I like it too black looks great on TZ and I got everything including the coins door, trim, legs and every bolt done for only 130.
Quoted from gunstarhero:white clock face
It is stock but came on early production and late prototype games for example I have game 393 and it has a white clock face. It also has the right spiral sign and I want the original left one.
Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
Martinez, CA
You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider Parker_tz.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
Reply
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!
Donate to PinsideGreat to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
