Picked up a TZ this weekend.

Game has a few issues to work through, so I am sure to be ordering parts soon. I notice they make a clear ramp set which looks nice. The back of this game seems dark... I want to find a way to brighten that up. Wondering if a light strip would work.

I've got a credit dot for broken clock, so will probably need a new board for that. It seems like that generates a lot of heat and just gets trapped in the clock housing.

Anyway... will probably play this for a few weeks before tearing it down for a full cleaning. The subway is filthy.

I can see why TZ is a generally expensive machine. I just dropped $500 in parts orders from PBL and Marco today. That does not include the LEDs, ColorDMD, clock board and Mantis parts that I'll be ordering. Oh well it will look real purdy when I am done with it. Going to do a mix of WW and Sunlight on the GI. Previous owner had the Cointaker LED set in from ages ago, and the inserts look quite nice still. The cool white was just a bit too harsh on my eyes but the bulbs were the kind without domes. Mostly I will just need to do GI and maybe some sort of backboard / spotlight combination. Either that or just break down and go pinstadium.

Got my LEDs and LED OCD board ordered today.

This will be my first game using LED OCD. In the past I've just replaced the game rom with a supposedly led patched rom, ordered non-ghosting bulbs and called it a day. Neither of those totally eliminated the ghosting.

New clock board will be arriving soon too.

Question for those of you with the Ingo clock board- do you recommend to drill some vent holes in the clock housing? Or know if the aftermarket clock housing has some ventilation?

Thanks for the quick response! Yep, Ingo's board board and I will just keep my standard clear housing.

Thanks I will keep that in mind. So far I have only purchased the LED OCD, and I plan to stick with the WW clock LEDs.

This TZ is a bit of a player, but I am not sparing much expense to get it looking the best it can. My goal is to hopefully break even, or to lose less than 500 whenever the time comes to sell. Cabinet decals are also on my watch list, but so far I have not found a good source.

Tearing into my game now for cleanup and maintenance. It's hard not to hurry because we miss playing it! I've enjoyed cleaning up a few WPC games but this one will probably be the furthest I've gone without doing a complete playfield swap.

If anyone has an extra split set of cabinet decals I would be interested in the right hand side head and cabinet.

A live & learn moment for me. I am posting so hopefully someone else may avoid the same mistake. I should have started with some simple green or something lighter first to remove the glue residue. Instead I used some liquid goof off and roasted this plastic in about 5 minutes. I was relieved to see that Pinbits has some sort of replacment, and I also picked up their door flasher upgrade while shopping.

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This board seems to have been replaced in the not too distant past, but still was giving me the broken clock error. Looking forward to installing Ingo's upgrade board.

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I'm going to be adding some molex connectors as well. Are you able to use the same size pins for every location, or is a mix of sizes required? I'm wondering about .062 vs .093 for this.

I'll be replacing my smoked ramp with a clear one. This should help lighten up that back corner.

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I don't think its so bad... it's not like detailed board soldering. It can be done with a basic soldering iron and basic skills. Youtube has some tutorial videos.

Hey, I have a question for anyone who has rebuilt the clock mech. I am assembling now after cleaning and I am wondering if the plastic gears should be lubricated or if they are better left alone.

Does anyone know where this plastic protector might go?

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I just picked up a clear gear housing from Marco last month. Going to be assembling my clock finally this weekend... making lots of good progress this past week.

edit... sorry I misunderstood. No the only housing I see is colored. I wish PPS would have made these but I settled on blue from Mantis. It looks really sharp though, I think overall I will like it.

I am missing a reference picture for this piece. Does anyone know where this metal spacer belongs?
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That's good because I am just about finished with reassembly. No more broken clock!

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Are you talking about this black round piece with the 4 prongs? Should be just a single screw in the middle that attaches it to the plunger.

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I've got a couple of lingering issues. Anyone have experience with these?
- Shooting the lock shot does not start quick multiball. Seems like all the switches are working during tests.
- Powerball sensor will sometimes give a false positive, but this mode will revert once the game senses a steel ball. Trough kicker is a bit wobbly, and I have replacement parts for that. Have the upgraded sensor boards been discontinued?

Fixed one of my issues today... lower lock switch was actuating with finger, but not with a ball. After a switch adjustment that issue is solved.

I am guessing the powerball thing may be an adjustment as well. One of these days I will get off my lazy butt and install the new ball kicker for the trough.

There plenty of inexpensive chip pullers on Amazon as well. Does not need to be fancy, just looks like a big pair of tweezers.