(Topic ID: 63352)

Twilight Zone Owner's club

By Caucasian2Step

10 years ago


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  • 15,086 posts
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  • Latest reply 5 minutes ago by ottodawg
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Topic index (key posts)

8 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #5897 Updated 9.4H manual with corrections from Coyote Posted by Coyote (5 years ago)

Post #8716 Have your picture taken in the translight Posted by Neal_W (3 years ago)

Post #10381 Switching to stereo sound. Posted by hawknole (2 years ago)

Post #11803 How to Add 3rd Magnet. Posted by mbaumle (2 years ago)

Post #11810 Third Magnet Parts List Posted by mbaumle (2 years ago)

Post #13048 Board replacement options. Posted by DumbAss (1 year ago)

Post #14049 Flipper cabinet opto board data Posted by DumbAss (9 months ago)

Post #14166 More key board data Posted by DumbAss (8 months ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#7668 4 years ago
Quoted from monkfe:

Nice, but I found that that camera really blocked my view of the upper left flipper, so I moved it to the rear of the upper playfield, now I can see it much better...

Really? Mine doesn’t but I’m just over 6’ tall.

#7670 4 years ago
Quoted from algrande:

How do you like the pinsound? I can not decide which pin to install mine.

I’ve have it on my TZ and wouldn’t be without it, much better even with the original mix! Have it on a couple of others too.

3 months later
#8155 4 years ago

Have pinsound/speakers in mine, original sound Mix is crisper and punchier than original soundboard and speakers. With the bonus of different mixes if I fancy it.
Pinwoofer setup would make a big improvement too. But I’m fussy about sound.

1 month later
#8382 4 years ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

I'm thinking my current stock clock isn't working correctly. I was watching it while my son played, and it goes backwards to 6 o'clock, he hit the clock target and it went to 11:45and stayed there. Hopefully the new clock board has better results

Been having issues with mine, I have the piano mod on mine and the clock was sitting flush on it. I tilted it back so it sat on the front edge of the piano and now it’s running with no faults including clock test where it’s now Running around the clock perfect. Before I tilted it all kinds of wrong times where coming up and stopping. Fingers crossed.

#8385 4 years ago
Quoted from Durzel:

Sounds like the minute hand opto interrupter is barely breaking the beam, and when it’s tilted back that’s enough for the hand to work properly.

Yes I think so too, the minute hand seemed a bit floppy so must be sitting back a bit now.
Going to play again later and see if it stays working, can’t enjoy this game unless the clocks working.
Recently put in the reorchestrated pinsound file and it’s so good, really enjoying it.

2 weeks later
#8470 3 years ago

I ordered the blue clock board from Ingo recently, hopefully will get it soon as the Pindorabox board that came with mine is a bit glitchy.
Also trying to get that Invader topper.

#8472 3 years ago
Quoted from monkeyboypaul:

Ingo’s board is top quality. I’m using cold white LEDs in it.

I have cold white and the rainbow leds coming, wasn’t sure what would look best with the white clock face, has warm white at the mo which looks ok.
PCB is blue which I haven’t seen before and will match the blue clock case.

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1 week later
#8581 3 years ago

Received this Pendretti Invader topper today, looks amazing when powered up. Will fit soon.

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1 week later
#8605 3 years ago
Quoted from Kwoody51:

Any solutions for managing airballs off the clock target and greed target near the scoop?
I have the Pinball Resource enhanced stand-up targets (http://www.pbresource.com/pfswitch.htm) which I thought were supposed to help with airballs but after a few hundred games I'm getting more airballs than when these targets were new.
Some airballs off the greed target have shot all the way back to the shooter lane!
Thanks!

These helped quite a bit, they absorb the ball a bit.

https://www.pinballdecals.com/TZTargetDecalsPage.html

3 weeks later
#8650 3 years ago
Quoted from KJS:

Has anyone heard from Ingo at all lately? I order some things off him in Feb and can't get a hold of him? Thankyou

Yes, had my clock board a couple of weeks ago.

#8661 3 years ago
Quoted from legendpin:

Hi! Where did you find this topper? Is it well made? Have it some lights?
Thanks lostcause

It’s made by Pedretti in Italy, I had one of the first. TZ Invader topper. Sold in Europe. €200.
It’s really nice and lighting is good but the antenna that turns is noisy. There is a switch on the back so you can turn the motor off and just have the lighting effects. I have turned the motor off, which is a shame. My first one went back because of the motor noise, the replacement is also noisy but they put a switch on the back. Is what it is. I still like it.

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-1
#8664 3 years ago
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

I like it. How noisy is the motor, any good comparison? Do you hear it clearly standing in front of the pin in attract mode (not playing)?

Very clearly!

4 months later
#9063 3 years ago

Been having a problem with my trough proximity (s26) since I bought mine, normally just needed to readjust the metal sensor. Adjusted it again but was getting a powerball with virtually every ball coming out, seemed the red led would flash as a ball went into the trough so I soldered the wires direct on both boards. No problem with led flashing now from vibration and is operating correctly with metal and powerball but now the game wasn’t recognising the powerball even though the red led was sensing correctly, from what I have read it seems the optocoupler u2 must be blown as the led is operating correctly and everything on the switch matrix is ok.
WTF faults on this game never surprise me, ordered some optocoupler IC’s to see if that’s at fault but also ordered a new board set from Tangles in Australia. I live in hope as I’ve fixed all the other faults that it came with.

#9071 3 years ago

Anyone know if a 4n35 would be ok for u2 in the trough proximity board?
Just seen that Tangles board verision of this has a 4n25 on u2.
Listed as opto 100% CTR 4N.
Thanks.

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#9072 3 years ago

Just checked the part no. on Marco’s website and it is the 4n35.
Doh!

2 months later
#9421 3 years ago
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:

Ugh, that's a mod? I thought I got them all off (a pyramid and space ship!). I googled TZ playfield and saw this same clock mod on some other playfields (or at least one), so thought it was stock.
Other than the PinStadiums, anything else standing out on my playfield that looks to be a mod?
[quoted image]

Judge Dreads does a mod like that, I had one but took it off because I broke the hand attached to the motor when I was doing some work.
Mine would move out of position and get hit by the ball underneath.

1 month later
#9705 3 years ago

I had a blue led strip lighting the back up, while it was great at lighting the area up it really annoyed me seeing the leds reflection on the playfield between the upper flipper and piano. I unplugged it the other week and it’s really dark up there now but I’m waiting on the lcd mod for the back panel which should add enough light.
I guess if it was angled back the reflection might not be seen on the playfield.

#9712 3 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Yes, but I do not believe that applies to emails or PMs.
In the past, mid-2020, Ingo was always active here, and replying to comments and PMs and emails. And now, he's not.
Hence, my concern.

I had mine from him spring last year ish, took a while but it was worth it. Contact was good back then.

1 month later
#10143 3 years ago
Quoted from damadczar:

Anyone on here know where to get a new repro or NOS Twilight Zone speaker panel plexi screen?
Mine is beat to hell and before I go experimenting with sanding it to make it better wanted to see if there were any way to get a nice replacement, just in case.

This guy does excellent quality stuff, I’ve seen the TZ speaker panel and it is very good.
In Europe but check him out, prices are good.
https://xianek.eu/

1 month later
#10329 2 years ago

I think it looks ok with led spots, kind of like stars shining.

4 weeks later
#10439 2 years ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

Break out the soldering iron and solder the wires directly to the pins between the 2 little boards. Your connectors have failed. No need to replace them because they will only fail again. It sounds like a hack but that component needs a rock solid connection to work correctly.

I managed to fix mine while waiting for Tangles to arrive, first fix was to solder wires directly between the boards. That worked for a little while then the opto coupler chip gave in so changed that and been fine ever since with not one error. Have a spare one now from Tangles which looks good.

#10441 2 years ago
Quoted from Green-Machine:

I need the sensor too. This is eddy board only

Pretty sure Tangles boards are hard wired together.

1 month later
#10794 2 years ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Translites:
I just cleaned my translite. It was more cream colored than white on the backside. Yellowed with age, I guess. Lately I've been lusting after the CPR mirrored backglass but didn't want to blow the $300+ to get it. So, I figured I would do my level best to clean/revive my original translite first. I wasn't sure how to attack it. I separated it from the glass and laid it face down on the bench covered with a cotton tarp. I tried 409. Barely touched it. Also IPA:H20. Nah! Then I tried Crazy Clean. Only slightly better. Then I tried P21S Paint Cleanser Wax Prep. It's basically a gentle polish with some kind of detergent. That was as aggressive as I dared go. I rubbed it in, then wiped it off with a damp micro fiber rag. I did bring the translite around until it was somewhere between cream and white, but it sure wasn't bleach-white. I have bought cool-white 1SMD bulbs for the backbox from Comet and I hope the newly cleaned translite will look its best ever when finally installed. I will take a photo then. I'm a sucker for real backglasses. Love the mirrored accents and the vibrant color!

I’ve had a few mirrored back glasses from CPR and the nicest one was the TZ one, the old one can go on a wall. I did have an Indiana Jones one but didn’t fit it as I didn’t like it, wish I did now as I would have had the old translite on the wall.

2F6FF329-FC26-49BC-B401-09BAE2A69B4F (resized).jpeg2F6FF329-FC26-49BC-B401-09BAE2A69B4F (resized).jpeg
3 months later
#11443 2 years ago

I ordered the Ingo clock board at that start of COVID last year, it took a while but was worth it. Also gave me a set of spare LED’s.
Hang on in there as this is the only one to get if you can. Lovely build quality.

1 month later
#11531 2 years ago

I have had bad connections in connectors under the playfield that has given me headaches particularly around the opto board.

2 months later
#11816 2 years ago
Quoted from Juicerc51:

Im looking for a clear blue clock housing if anyone happens to have one.

Good choice

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3 weeks later
#11946 2 years ago
Quoted from pjflyer:

Proximity switch 26 error experience:
I just fixed the proximity switch but found something interesting. I don't know if anyone has experienced what I did. After examining the sensor board and finding the sensor beat up by the ball hitting it, I did some further testing. I unplugged the sensor board from the control (?) board and found the LED would light up. Made sense with the beat up sensor the sensor was the issue. After ordering and installing new sensor, it still didn't work. I found out later by chance and moving some wires, the IDC connector to the control board had issues. I'm not sure which wire had the issue, but it would cause the LED to light up making me think the control board was good. After I fixed the connector issue, I found the control board was NOT working. The LED would not come on with the sensor board disconnected. I replaced the 8 pin proximity chip and it worked. I also twisted and soldered the wires that connect the boards. Hopefully it will last a bit.
I guess a word to the wise of making sure the wires and connectors are actually in good shape and working. Damn IDC's!! I was led down the wrong path thinking it was the sensor. The sensor could have been bad as well, but the loose wire gave me a false indication the control board was working.

Had the same, I hard wired the cables and also had to change that opto coupler chip and never had a problem since.
Since changing the clock board for an Ingo and doing what you just did I have had no credit dots or issues for a while now

1 month later
#12151 1 year ago
Quoted from GoldenBear:

I guess the OCD LED boards are out of stock until November. Looks like I have to delay the transition to LEDs once again

I have an Afterglow board in mine which does the same thing, Stumblor (UK) who sells mods on here is doing another batch soon I think.

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