(Topic ID: 63352)
Linked Games
Twilight Zone
Bally, 1993
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Danville, CA
3 months later
Quoted from Crazyrayray113:Hey all! I’m super new here and not sure if this is the right place for this post but I figured I would give it a shot. My dad and I used to play on his Twilight Zone machine all the time together. He was an engineer of sorts and he took very good care of the machine with regular tinkering and maintenance. It was a labor of love for him. After he passed away, the game sat untouched for over a year, but I finally turned it on again for the first time a few weeks ago. It’s in need of some TLC and I was wondering if anyone here could help me with pointers on maintaining and repairing this particular machine. I’ve done some research but this is very new to me. I have managed to clean it up and diagnose a few issues, but I’m stumped by some flipper malfunctions. Only one of the four flippers seems to work properly. The two right flippers are notably weak. The clock shot is basically impossible. I ran through the flipper coil test and they all seemed to function normally with the power test, but with the hold test, three out of four barely budged. I’m not sure what this means or if it’s an easy fix but I would love some insight. Many thanks in advance!
Welcome to the Club 
Idea: if you're comfortable with posting your location... maybe someone would chime in offering to come by and assist you in getting your TZ dialed in.
I know "if" you were close to me, I'd be there to help.
Kerry
3 weeks later
Quoted from ray-dude:Lot of work, but very happy with how this turned out. Couple more lighting tweaks, wiring to machine with some relays, and getting a proper eye sticker made for the pyramid, but happy to finally have this on the machine (and the civilians in the house are even happier to have the kitchen counter back
Looks good... it's awesome to do mods to our games.
Note: my buddy put a large champagne bottle of all things, on top his ToM. Over a period of time, it moved and walked off the top, crashing down onto his game... Lots of Damage 
Suggestion to secure the heavier pieces, so they can't move, especially with a heavy nugger
3 weeks later
Quoted from Frogroar:Is this OK to do in terms of resale value, or a big no-no?
Some guys like white legs & armor on their games like TZ & WH20. It's not for me however, if you like it that's all that matters.
BTW: I feel a white powder coated TZ or WH20 would be worth less in value to me, than those games having their standard stainless steel finish.
Kerry
1 month later
Mikespinball your TZ with RadCals and black armor, looks awesome!
Suggestion: IMHO change the chrome leg bolts to black, for the complete package.
Kerry
Quoted from Mikespinball:Thanks Kerry, I thought of changing the leg bolts to black, but kind of like them chrome as it brakes it up a bit.
Hey, if I remember correctly you bought a Champion Pub and a Junkyard from me a few years ago. Do you still have the machines? Kind of miss them.
WOW, small world... I didn't realize that was you, and "Yes" still have them both.
Kerry
1 week later
Quoted from Dan1733:What is the easiest and safest way to create holes in radcals (for bolts) without ruining the radcals? Exacto knife? Drill?
I've done many RadCals... this is what I use with my Dremel for all button holes & shooter openings. It's a 1/8" flush cut trim router bit. It does the cleanest, nicest and quickest holes with no mistakes. Note: I will lightly sand the hole / opening out first (before painting it) to clean off any burs that would mimic the flush cut drill process onto my RadCal.
All the other bolts, just a new sharp box cutter blade in a hand tool to cut out. It's forgiving because the head on bolt will cover any reasonable marks.
BTW: I don't like the button holes pre cut as you have to use them as the alignment for the entire RadCal. I ask and prefer them not predrilled for that reason.
Quoted from Scoot:This is riveted to the apron. I was thinking of removing it but not sure if it's worth the hassle. Why would this be here? Distributor id#?
@Scoot, IMHO that operator ID tag sticks out like a sore thumb
If this was my TZ... I would remove that ID tag, and consider filling holes, then paint (easiest) or powder coat apron, then install new decal stickers and make it go away.
1 month later
Re CPR mirrored backglass's... I bought one for my IJ. IMO, it's way to deep orange/redish. I actually put my translite back in
4 months later
Re: RadCals...
Even "if" you don't sand to the wood (which is what I would do), I'd sand (lightly rough up w/ 120-150 grit) surface and spray or even as last resort, roll on (then lightly sand again) an enamel paint to seal and hide any old artwork. This because; if you don't and install the RadCals you very well may see the old artwork thru your new RadCals. Not a chance I'd be willing to take.
As they say: "an ounce of prevention, is worth a pound of cure"
Just my .02 worth and I've installed many RadCals and decals too.
Quoted from ProjektPat:I can't figure out how to remove the flipper buttons.
2 ways for me:
1) Use a large socket for nut on inside. You can turn it by hand.
2) use needle nose pylers (grab edge of nut) to gently turn nut.
5 months later
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