(Topic ID: 63352)

Twilight Zone Owner's club

By Caucasian2Step

10 years ago


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Topic index (key posts)

8 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #5897 Updated 9.4H manual with corrections from Coyote Posted by Coyote (5 years ago)

Post #8716 Have your picture taken in the translight Posted by Neal_W (3 years ago)

Post #10381 Switching to stereo sound. Posted by hawknole (2 years ago)

Post #11803 How to Add 3rd Magnet. Posted by mbaumle (2 years ago)

Post #11810 Third Magnet Parts List Posted by mbaumle (2 years ago)

Post #13048 Board replacement options. Posted by DumbAss (1 year ago)

Post #14049 Flipper cabinet opto board data Posted by DumbAss (10 months ago)

Post #14166 More key board data Posted by DumbAss (9 months ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#4721 6 years ago

Bent flap and removed rubber here.

2 months later
#4866 6 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

That's awesome!!! Where did you get that?!

You used to be able to buy the perfect magnets for the job at Radio Shack.

#4868 6 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

I think you misinterpreted which post I was responding to

So I did.

3 weeks later
#4945 6 years ago
Quoted from AlexSMendes:

I know that it's meant to pay homage to the B/W era, but TZ's colordmd could use a little bit more colors...

As tricked out as you've got that machine, a monochrome DMD might actually provide a brief interlude of sanity.

2 months later
#5499 6 years ago
Quoted from AlexSMendes:

Yep, 9.4H...

Just published the videos below and sent'em the links...
» YouTube video
» YouTube video

Your _first_ video is not the way mine works; the color on mine stays, as you'd think it should.

Your _second_ video is exactly the way mine works. I never considered that a problem, because it _is_ colored, in grey and white, like several other effects (the "GAME OVER", for example).

2 months later
#5861 5 years ago
Quoted from PhillyArcade:

Checking in! New TZ owner here! I played a ton of pinball at the Texas pinball festival this year and I kept going back to TZ as my favorite game of the show. Picked up a beautiful super clean re-import locally. Minimal wear plays amazing. Pretty much a virgin as well other then the button battery mod. Can't wait to add some goodies. Color DMD, update the game rom (9.4home is the best for it?), Cliffiy protectors, (all wood is in perfect condition) Game Blades, Gum balls, and a better LED treatment. Glad to be part of the TZ owners! This one I think will be a keeper for a long time!
I've seen some manuals on-line they are different then the one that came with the game. Is this a different version?
Is there any must have mods for TZ other then the ones I've listed? Lemme know thanks!

Congrats! Welcome!

9.4H is a must. The Great Lakes mini playfield switches, if you can find them, are a must.

4 months later
#6333 5 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

When the Powerfield is active, the "The Power" insert in front of the right ramp will flash. Once you get a jackpot, the light will go out. There's no indication (on the PF) that the main ramp needs to be shot.

While the insert is flashing, the DMD says "SHOOT RIGHT RAMP". Once you get a Jackpot, the DMD says "SHOOT LEFT RAMP"; doing so relights the insert.

#6375 5 years ago

Also: the Powerball Jackpot is a combination of two switch matrix closures in close succession: 75, "Mini-playfield Top", meaning a ball was at the top of the mini-playfield, followed by 42, "The Camera", which would normally indicate the _same ball_ exiting the top the of mini-playfield and going through the "subway" to the Slot Kickout.

If, during Powerball Multi-ball play, you hit the top of the mini-playfield with one ball, and then shoot the Camera shot within a second or two with a _second_ ball, you'll score the Jackpot.

This works during LITZ as well.

1 month later
1 week later
#6592 5 years ago
Quoted from Squeakman:

I'm curious now, how many people actually have clock board problems? I have had my TZ for 5 years now and never one single issue with it. I am going through it now and replacing the shell on it and was wondering weather I should bother buying the Ingo board.

The major cause of problems with the clock was always heat buildup within the clock shell, exacerbated by the design change that made the clock illumination GI instead of controlled lights. Drilling vent holes in the clock shell and/or replacing the bulb jumpers with the original diodes will help the problem; if your clock has had these mods done, and you don't leave the machine on 24/7, you could avoid any issues.

#6604 5 years ago
Quoted from Pesmerga:

Thank you, I didn't know it was to change the difficulty level..do you have any idea of its part number? It is missing on my pin and I would like to buy a replacement.. thanks !

Not difficulty level, just _level_, from side to side. If the playfield isn't level, the ball can get stuck in the (low) corner.

2 months later
#6802 5 years ago
Quoted from Durzel:

It's easier to think of the lock area as another trough.
Because it's the only place on the playfield besides the gumball machine where balls can stay, and there's 5 silver balls anyway, basically the game knows that it isn't going to affect gameplay to leave a ball up there between games.
I would hazard a guess that if you ended up with two locked balls up there at the end of the game that it might kick them both out so that you've got at least 2 balls in the bottom trough.

Nope - even _two_ will stay up there between games. You also can't "steal" locks in a multi-player game - if there aren't any in the trough after a lock shot, you'll see the "WATCH FOR KICKOUT" message on the DMD as one is ejected.

The only mass LOCK eject comes when the machine is rebooted.

1 month later
#6963 5 years ago
Quoted from lynnpin:

Regarding the Auto Shooter misfiring, I had the same problem and found a great fix at Dr. Ed Cheung's Pinball Blog and have had no problem since. All of Dr. Cheung's restoration work on his pins is worth reviewing. The fix is at the end of this link: http://www.edcheung.com/album/album08/pinball/tz.htm Good Luck

The good Doctor was right about "slop in the kicker", but what worked much better for me was putting the additional washer on the _other_ side of the linkage. Try it both ways, and see which works better for you.

1 month later
-1
#7032 4 years ago

That's some serious side decal sun fade there.

#7037 4 years ago
Quoted from Green-Machine:

JW doesn’t have pictures of his pins....

You are correct. Pic now uploaded.

2 weeks later
#7120 4 years ago
Quoted from Adipocere:

I suppose so. The ball basically is striking the white rubber in the pic and going right back into the trough, then rinsing and repeating until it finds the correct angle. Some sort of gate WOULD make sense but I don't see a spot for one. Guess I'll go through the adventure of removing the apron and seeing what might be loose or off-kilter. Thanks for the help!

Try removing that rubber.

3 months later
#7379 4 years ago

They're three different standoffs - 1 of "02-4611-2" (Standoff 1 11/16"), 1 of "02-4611-3" (Standoff 2 1/2") and 2 of "02-4611-5" (Standoff 1 1/4").

They're listed as numbers 41, 33, 50 (respectively) on the Upper Playfield Parts List (page 2-48), and shown on the Upper Playfield Parts diagram (page 2-49).

6 months later
#8321 4 years ago

During LITZ, the Piano shot is "Odd Change".

10 months later
#9637 3 years ago
Quoted from awesome1:

You can add a magnet to the backside of the diverter to help with the bounces (won't affect Powerball obviously).
Here's a link to show some options for how this can be done:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tz-tip-cheap-diverter-magnet-mod-works-great

Actually, on my machine, it _did_ affect the Powerball - the added mass of the magnets to the diverter greatly lessened the PB bouncebacks.

1 month later
#10119 3 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

The clock lighting IS GI lighting. It's GI string #3. (Wh/Yl color.)

...that being the source of the infamous clock heat problems: the change to GI (from controlled lights) late in the design process. That's why one of the "traditional" fixes was to put the originally-spec'd diodes back in place of the design-change jumpers.

#10131 3 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Eh, kind of.
Originally while in development, the clock's lights were supposed to be controlled, and light up as the clock told time, effects, and so on. However, during the development phase, to save money and 'for reasons' (I do not know the reasons, would need to talk to Ted Estes, Pat Lawlor, or the bean counters back then) they decided that it wasn't worht it, and converted them over to GI. They kept the board design as-is, and just replaced the diodes with 0-ohm jumpers. Like was previously mentioned, after games were out for months, years, it was discovered that the constant-on lamps would over-heat the clock, and cause opto failures. So, one fix was to replace the jumpers with diodes, halving the brightness/heat. The other fix was to drill air vent holes in the top of the clock.

One reason for the change: the lamp matrix is _full_, all 64 slots in use. As they kept adding features and modes and such, they wound up needing the four lamp matrix slots the clock was using for other things.

4 months later
#11051 2 years ago
Quoted from awesome1:

It's always fun when you can quickly defeat the Power!

I always thought a one-flip Defeat should score double.

5 months later
#11711 2 years ago
Quoted from drhex:

Hey all,
my right spiral deposits the ball stdm if I don't deflect it with the piano flipper, is this normal?
Thanks,
Florian

<nod> It's a golden opportunity to remind your friends there are _four_ flippers...

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