(Topic ID: 63352)
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Twilight Zone
Bally, 1993
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La Porte, TX
Quoted from Manny65:TZ had a 3 inch 4 ohm 15 watt tweeter (5555-12924-00) and 5.25 inch 4 ohm 25 watt speaker (5555-12856-00) is the speaker panel.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5555-12924-00
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5555-12856-00
Perfect. Thanks. I’m not in the club yet
E2B0BE25-CE70-41FF-BA39-AABA0AA07A36 (resized).jpegQuoted from Manny65:Doesn't need to be working to be in the club ... then again maybe this is one you are looking to buy??
A plastic and 2 screws (one for the ramp L shaped bracket and one for the post to hold the plastic in place). Everything else seems to be there[quoted image][quoted image]
Thanks! I bought a new plastics set. It should be included!
1 week later
Quoted from DumbAss:The RTC is in the ASIC. The ASIC is always powered by VBATT.
There is a jumper on the CPU board that allows U8 (RAM) to be powered by either VBATT or VCC. Factory setting is W7=VBATT. If you remove W7 and install W6=VCC then U8 is powered only when the main power is applied. This reduces the draw on VBATT when the power is off but allows for the RTC to continue to operate extending the life of the RTC on batteries.
You can have the best of both worlds - i.e. RTC still running off batteries when power is off and NVRAM holding settings but not drawing any power unless on mains. It is still recommended to mount the batteries remotely.Johnny Mnemonic is WPC-S so the CPU board is incompatible with Twilight Zone.
Ok…sooo this is board I have with NVRAM installed….just add the Battery pack and keep the NVRAM. Set W7 off , W6 on, and all is good? I guess these are the small toggles switches on the MPU.
Quoted from DumbAss:That board uses the traditional 0 Ohm jumper offset slightly (overlapped) with a common pin. You will need to either cut the currently installed 0 Ohm jumper and install a new one in the desired position or remove the currently installed 0 Ohm jumper and install it in the desired position. Board designers who have put at least some thought into their boards use shunt jumpers that are much easier to switch configuration. You can argue that these kinds of configuration changes are rarely (if ever) made so a shunt jumper is overkill. Fair point. There's no right or wrong here. Simply preference. My preference is a shunt jumper. It's what I use on my board.
Schematic (for reference) is shown here.
[quoted image]Blue is fixed (VBATT to ASIC).
Red is factory installed W7 (VBATT to U8).
Green is switch to W6 (VCC to U8).You can leave W7 installed but this means that there can be a power draw on the battery while the IC is in standby. Consult the datasheet for the installed FRAM IC on your board to be sure if there is a power draw in standby. To eliminate this possibility switch the jumper from W7 to W6.
My Bad bro…this is the actual board that I have from Ksarcade.. https://www.pinsound.org/products/rocket-cpu-wpc/
Found a Backbox! Old Addams Family BB missing everything.
2094A120-EAC5-425C-AC74-382A91381345 (resized).jpeg2AC99167-777A-48C4-BA67-CA8A62DB6659 (resized).jpeg59B25FED-6A05-4340-90CA-FD4410C87C5A (resized).jpeg6876DDF4-E9A9-45B1-85EF-42FE8745F8DA (resized).jpeg72B883CF-6BC2-4B0D-9274-A26284B15AB1 (resized).jpegDB8E498E-0478-478B-9FA4-60C71A5AAED1 (resized).jpegDC6BBAD3-6A9C-444C-A9C0-381C69EDFA12 (resized).jpegFDE0008A-485E-4AB2-87F1-B4BB00994B33 (resized).jpegThanks but those are to small…may cut the larger ones. Not perfect but it will work. Wire Harness next.
0C0E4BC8-C14A-42DC-96FC-D1F4A7E55B45 (resized).jpeg218C44B0-5DE8-4782-9342-DC46960FDF98 (resized).jpeg61F65B05-9CD3-4F7B-A713-07F76F3C52B0 (resized).jpegDE35B0E3-E3F6-4E21-9FF3-A6DC4D92917A (resized).jpegQuoted from LTG:https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/20-9672
Do you have the clips that hold them ? I ask because sample games didn't have them. If you have the clips you are good to go.
LTG : )
Yes, it includes the clips.
Quoted from Scotty_K:Of course, you could always get the "low profile" switch kit from PinballLife, and eliminate the need for the switch covers entirely:
https://www.pinballlife.com/twilight-zone-the-power-mini-playfield-switch-replacement-kit.html
I recently did this, and it looks great!
Wow, that’s nice. I’ll make due for now. As I’m spending big $$$ on piecing together the entire head and trying to save the Cab and PF…
DF09EDBA-7F65-421D-A01C-7C3A3D153688 (resized).jpegQuoted from Scoot:Was that in a flood or a fire? Yikes!
Stored standing with the glass off for 15 years. Machine shop. Everything was greasy, I think it helped Preserve everything. Here’s the Mini cleaned up.
04B0143D-A117-4CAF-B0D3-58B8314232A4 (resized).jpeg 1 week later
Quoted from Spannerhead:Hey guys,
I’ve been looking into my fathers old Twilight Zone and would like to create a thread with some photos as it seems to be an early sample machine dated 03/04/93. Can someone verify my account so I can create a thread?
Thanks!
Take a picture of the Machines 5th flipper. 3X zoom. To verify you’re not a robot!
Quoted from sandro:It looks like a site called Pinball Pro sells a variant of this mod: https://pinballpro.net/shop/new-twilight-zone-dazzler-kit/
I found this through Google, I have no idea if that site is legit or not. Has anyone heard of them before? Are they a reliable vendor?
It looks like Judge Dread sells something similar on eBay (ebay.com link: itm), but I don't know if it's interactive with game modes the way the original was. But I have at least bought from him in the past, and I know that he *does* ship products ordered (from England iirc).
Thanks! Even better.
Quoted from Spannerhead:I attached a couple photos, let me know if there’s a specific angle and I’ll see what I can do
Cheers,
Spannerhead
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
What is this collect next spiral value Plastic? I guess mines is missing…
7E013237-B5A2-4476-A357-40455ADD8B6D (resized).jpegQuoted from Coyote:The sign was removed because it was a ball trap.
The yellow lamp at the back of the powerfield - in the same location as where the sign is mounted - is your Left Spiral lamp.
Thanks for the info.
Ok, 3 legs Mount holes on each corner. Strange, I’ve haven’t seen this. Which is the most common to use? Thanks In advance. I’lm adding new Decals so I want to start fresh. Looks like, the last owner was all over the place…Jajaja
Surly headed for the dumpster TZ is almost saved.
4286D9C0-2B08-4C16-A83F-AE79EDE43932 (resized).jpegEBF9EB1D-7BE7-487F-BC33-CD534F1692F3 (resized).jpeg
https://www.facebook.com/groups/3498499426859515/permalink/5347948191914620/
Short Video of it on pick up day. Lady had it post on Offer up for Months. She said, the next day it was headed to the dumpster. $100 find.
Quoted from bakerhillpins:Probably be cool to watch but it's a link to a video in a private FB group so that's worthless on 2 levels, FB and Private group on FB.
Yea, It would be nice to be able to post videos here.
Quoted from bakerhillpins:There's this new website called Youtube... have you heard of it? There's a few others like it out there. It's kinda cool as it doesn't require you to have an account and you can share videos with everyone.
Never heard of it.
Quoted from sandro:Without getting into this pissing match. I have a FB account, and I couldn’t access the posted video since it’s in a private Gogar group, and I didn’t feel like waiting for access. I’m fine missing the video, but the OP of that link should understand that they were definitely going to have a limited audience for it.
I tried to switch the account to public, but Facebook has it locked…
904FEE68-64FC-4196-92A1-96E381D2C216 (resized).pngQuoted from Trooper11040:I don’t want to put the $$ out there unless I know I’m going to receive it. Sad as I really want one
I’m fixing to plug My TZ for the 1st time. Hope that clock works. Original and look burned. Lol.
OK in clock test. I can move the clock forward backward slow and fast. But on the DMD’s the Opto’s‘s are locked on. And as it passes the minutes and hours there’s no opto beep. And it says clock broken. So I think I need a Clock board.
Quoted from Tranquilize:The optos are not working. Crack it open, clean and reflow. You can test without reassemble. You should have at least one or two good optos. Check the connector between the boards. As I said, that's the usual issue. Remove the connector and solder wires direct instead.
https://www.flippers.be/tz_clock.html
Thanks. Yep. The connector was bad. Loose wire. Now the 6o’clock opto doesn’t work. Guess I should just get this aftermarket board.
Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:Thanks guys!
I ordered a rom puller tonight, but didn’t want to wait!
Successfully installed!
Cheers
Richard
[quoted image]
Nice!
36B50701-E84E-4C6D-963A-3DE57D4D665E (resized).jpeg99B190AA-6108-49ED-B38D-02C941E0F0A3 (resized).jpegAA1505E2-A30E-4FF0-83A4-1D5FF22EB882 (resized).jpegD5FEEA66-4689-4E92-8A2F-33BEDDC81414 (resized).jpegWhat flasher, flashes the least. I got Pin stadiums pretty much to brighten the PF But I don’t want a shit show. Lol… May not end up putting them in this Pin if I can’t make it look right. Don’t want a Christmas Tree.
Quoted from Thor-NL:Check if the autolauncher hits the ball dead-center.
Inspect the mechanism, if the arm is sloppy (loose) try adding a washer so the energy is not wasted in the arm's "wigglyness"...
Done. Improved a bit. What is a fair percentage of good launches?
Quoted from simonlindsay:Hi Gorgar, The F116 kept blowing so nothing worked and even after removing the clock again, the fuse still blows. I did lift the playfield and looked at most connectors and to see if anything was obvious. There must be a short somewhere as TP1 is showing 139V (UK voltage is 230-250V).
If it was me. I’d remove all the boards. Tighten down the metal back plate “board Mount plate” Check all pins for cold solder. Spray all the connectors with https://www.amazon.com/DeoxIT-D5S-6-Contact-Cleaner-Integrated/dp/B0002BBV4G/ref=asc_df_B0002BBV4G/ right before plugging them back in…
Quoted from Gorgar666:If it was me. I’d remove all the boards. Tighten down the metal back plate “board Mount plate” Check all pins for cold solder. Spray all the connectors with amazon.com link » right before plugging them back in…
I had a similar issue. Was a tiny metal shavings laying across the legs of a transistor. Was a miracle I saw that.
Quoted from simonlindsay:Manny65, progress at last! I connected everything except for J116,117 & 118 and I left the clock disconnected. I brought my fire extinguisher close to hand. I put in a good fuse in F116 (I always check them out of the holder) and switched on the machine.
Nothing blew! I checked TP1 but only managed to get up to 1.7V, I took the fuse out and it had not blown. What should be my next steps? I think that J118 may be the issue based on my previous tests, but I'll await your invaluable advice.
Many thanks.
My fire extinguisher lost charge. Need another I guess.
Quoted from Pinkitten:I know this is probably a silly question, but does anyone have a blue or clear clock housing they would sell me? Mine is red, which is fine, but I prefer the blue or clear. I would buy or include my red + $.
Thank you!
I old yellowed one.lol
1 week later
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:I think this guy was making them at one time. Might want to reach out to him.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/twilight-zone-spiral-ramp-last-one
Thanks bro!
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:In my opinion both TZ and Adams Family are painfully too dark with incandescent bulbs. Those two games really benefit from LEDs. Just replace your bulbs with frosted warm or sunlight bulbs. That will create more light with the same look. The Casper board will then blend perfectly. LED lighting has really improved over the last 5 years or so.
I added PinStatuims and tried to match the color of the glow of sunlight white. Added the flasher on Rocket shot. Too Minimize the flash light show as much as possible. It was a lot of money for increased lighting. Oh well, I’m happy.
Quoted from Redfive05:And if you order your Ingo board now, you might get it sometime this decade!
6 months, 0 updates unless I asked, first time I asked "It will ship in two weeks" When I asked 3 months later where it was I was told I needed to pick the $17 shipping without tracking and it could take up to three months to ship, or $47 with tracking and it might take a few days. When I told them I already picked the $17 shipping I was told we haven't shipped because some of the ones they shipped that way didn't arrive.
Excuse, excuse, excuse...
If I have only one good thing to say its that when I asked for my money back there was no argument.
Don't lie to me.... if you forgot to ship it, just say it.... if you can't get parts, just say it... if this was suppose to be a pre-order, just say it! (there was a rumor going around that they can't get the optos, if they just said that I would take the board without them seeing I already have replacement optos from other projects ready to go)
Unless you have $130 to just throw into the wind and see what happens stay away from the Ingo board.
I just ordered the Marcos one. It works as it should and I haven’t thought about it since….
Quoted from Frogroar:I bought a shabby TZ and I'm planning to do a complete restoration. During my online searches I found a TZ with white powder coated legs and side rails. It looks really great on this game IMO!
Is this OK to do in terms of resale value, or a big no-no?
Don’t do it.
Quoted from Zee:Different topic: back in 2003 I came up with this polycarbonate deflector for the shooter lane to keep balls from hitting the ramp and bouncing back down. It reduced the failed ball launches by about half.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Got a Pic installed?
Quoted from bakerhillpins:I worked on a TZ where sometimes the memory would hold and sometimes not... turns out the battery holder had some minor corrosion damage on one of the paddles and it made marginal connection with the negative terminal of the center cell. I found the problem by waiting for the memory to fail on boot and measured the DC voltage across the entire batter pack and compared that to the sum of the voltage measured across each of the 3 batteries. It didn't match so I inspected the holder and found the bad paddle.
Nice Info!
Quoted from mbaumle:I am incredibly happy with the board! I absolutely love it, and I think it’s a must-have mod. I absolutely value your work and dedication to the hobby.
That said, if you do ever decide to make an incandescent version of the board, I will 100% buy it. I keep all of my games incandescent since I prefer the look.
So is this plug-in play or do I have to make another harness. Is it still looks like $120?
Quoted from Purdue:It comes with a harness and instructions. It’s really a neat upgrade!
You have one? I already have Pin Stadium's, wonder how that would look. I do like Extra Bling.....I'd be in if it don't break the bank..
Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:How is the pinstadium on TZ?
I have all the CGC remakes and like the RBG effects CGC have incorporated into them.
Richard
Actually set the G.I. to antique yellow whithish...the flashers to blueish...kinda cool. Don't think it was worth the money though. Lesson learned.
Quoted from Mikespinball:They are EVO Brite lights. I have them on all my machine's. Love to match the caps to the color of the LEDs and that they have cool white shining down to light up the pop bumper areas which is usually dark.
I purchase them at Pinball Life:
https://www.pinballlife.com/britecaps-evo-pop-bumper-lighting.html[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
SORCERER!
Quoted from eroomnek:Does anyone sell a complete harness for TZ? If so, who. I bought one once, but it was missing all of the connections. Thank you.
I saw a post of a TZ Crash build. He made homemade Complete harnesses…looked really homemade though..maybe reach out to him.. I recently homemade my harness for my G.I. lighting.
Quoted from bakerhillpins:It's not really that complicated to tear down and re-assemble, but then again the instructions in the manual don't read really well at all. See Ed Cheung's write-up as I found very clear. About 3/4s of the way down.
https://www.edcheung.com/album/album08/pinball/tz.htm
Look for the section "Reassembling the TZ clock gears".
Pay close attention to the 2 small dots and line on the last 2 gears.
Quoted from Pinkitten:Getting my newly added TZ customized to my liking. I added a color DMD, target decals and a few other mods (street lamp, chrome spiral sign, soon also a spinning slot machine, etc). I still need to install mirror blades, then decide on chrome vs black sparkle powder coat. I added clear flipper buttons with color-changing LEDs today, and my clock shooter rod is coming soon! Thanks to James in NY for this excellent deal. A true keeper. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Sick….too clean.
Quoted from Pinkitten:Both, dual monitors. Get more done that way.
I have LCD in mine, which I usually choose because I like the scan option, but many prefer LED, which I agree does appear slightly brighter with better contrast, if you don’t mind the dots. But I have LED in my TOTAN and LCD in others. Both huge upgrades over the stock DMD.
Swaying towards two LED’s. I already have 6 LCD’s in other Pins. Getting the Show discount for WCS and my TZ.
1 week later
Quoted from PinJim:I’m having an odd problem with my TZ. It start with the dreaded “clock broken” error. I went into the clock test and noted that the 45 minute opto was stuck closed.
During gameplay the right ramp diverted would randomly activate. Getting closer, seems to be related to row 3 of the matrix. The left orbit and right ramp optos are intermittent, mostly working, but jitter at times. The 45 opto is broken for the most part, but does work at times.
I have an Ingo board, for what that’s worth.
I haven’t begun troubleshooting it outside of identifying row 3 as the commonality between the 3 optos.
Those two tiny .100 connectors are super flaky under the clock housing.
2 weeks later
Selling all my old TZ plastics. Make me an offer. Typical old plastics condition. Warped, yellowed, chipped, smelly, cracked,ugly, faded, some are better than others but better than missing or completely broke in half pieces.Serous folks message me! Curious folks most likely have new great condition plastics. $25 + shipping. Whoever buys it without lowballing me gets the original Clock housing not bad but slightly yellow…. Peace out brothers!!
Quoted from GILV:Here are 2 pictures of how they are held and 3 of the door that is not very clear on the first post.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Nice, I couldn’t drive a screw on the top Backbox willingly….just me…
Quoted from Miguel351:Stuff like that is always in the manual. If you don't have one, you can download it on the IPDB website.
In the menu:
[quoted image]
Quoted from Miguel351:Stuff like that is always in the manual. If you don't have one, you can download it on the IPDB website.
In the menu:
[quoted image]
This is ball per game, looks like. Wow! Up to 10 balls!!!? I’m asking how many can be installed. I think the code 9.4 superseded the manual print… sometimes all my balls are locked in the gumball and I’m stuck with a cycling of two Balls and one is the Powerball….
3 weeks later
Quoted from Frogroar:Does someone have a good example of Pin Stadium lights on their Twilight Zone? Pictures, maybe a video? I’ll restore a TZ soon and I’m hesitating. I’m worried the strong lights will “wash out” the iconic playfield. So should I leave it as the pretty dark game it is, or are Pin Stadium lights an option…
Thanks!
I have them on my TZ. Over Priced. If you buy. Get the cheapest OG ones. No difference, but slight thinner. UV isn't nothing special. App is a modded TV LED strip App. Look poor .mans Pin Stadiums. The flashing gets old quick. Best setting is daylight white, best you can in the app. All others look Purple,Red,Green G.I. bombed.. I didn't listen, wish I did. $400 gone. My 2 Cents.
3 months later
1 month later
Quoted from jrcmlc:I'd like to work with someone to recreate the 3rd magnet kits and make them available here in my store. Pm me.
Interesting. Is that a helper magnet only? I hear people say that the ball doesn’t make the loop. I don’t have a problem.
Quoted from slochar:It's mainly for a dramatic multiball start - all 3 balls on magnets, they all drop at once to start. They put 2 on the right originally as they didn't think one would be enough to stop the ball on a spiral loop, but it turns out it was.
Good info thanks. I have 9.4H code so I guess the 3rd magnet wouldn’t make a difference…
Quoted from Green-Machine:Have you considered trying to buff it out? This works most of the time for me.
If it’s really bad would you be will to get it electroplated? Here’s a link to removing rust from chrome.
Thanks, I already
Quoted from Durzel:Mine was quite inconsistent and it was fixed completely by cleaning the coil plunger. Mine has gotten a bit gunked up and as a result it wasn't returning back to idle position quickly, compromising subsequent firing.
Cleaning it up completely fixed the problem and every single ball now goes around.
I'd give that a try as a first port of call.
Same. New Sleeve and new Power!
3 weeks later
1 week later
Quoted from atg1469:So lately I’ve noticed that balls are getting stuck on the upper left magnet after it’s fired. I can shake the ball loose pretty easily but it’s still annoying during gameplay. Is there a way to test the magnet to see if it’s staying on after firing or has anyone experienced something similar and might have some idea what is going on here? Thinking I should replace the metal balls too in case they’re magnetized.
Is the magnet dimpled?
1 month later
Quoted from Ypaddave:Hey TZ owners.. just letting you all know that I have some alternate wireforms for some machines and TZ is one of them.
I have a wavy rail for TZ available, as well as TAF, CFTBL and DE_JP.
The wavy rail is quad wire which prevents any balls falling onto the PF.
Check out my site for more info.
https://pinball.avidcreations.com.au
Cheers
David.
[quoted image]
Nice. Fair price. How about making a Gumball Wireform with some flair…. I understand it’s kind of limited of what can be done with that…mines is rusted…
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