Nice TZ! Nice score as well!

If you have a good connection and the continuity test isn’t making a noise - jump the cable and see it this fixes it - the Purple cable could well be broken in the cable.

I have them
In several other games and will install them in TZ when they make an orange one…

Yeah - you have the choice - I have all white ones in my STTNG for example because I have purple caps and they aren't available.... The white ones are damn bright but you can dial them down with the resistor dial so that it looks good - but the coloured versions look better - the LED's merge more into the pop bumper visually - and its more subtle.
There are various suppliers and the company I use hasn't made an Orange version yet. My TZ is set up in Cool white so I am OK with the downlighters...

The only other game I have without is Whirlwind - When I add the Halo lights, I tend to go whole hog and swap out the entire pop bumper plastics with clear coloured pieces - and Whirlwind has 6 pop bumpers... this could be a little bit too much...

Here 2 examples: sttng with white leds the one on the left is at around 50%
Royal rumble with Red ones at full power I think.

The camera make all look way brighter than in reality…

46BBD915-4C45-4AE2-B427-830905CA2545 (resized).jpeg

4C6AF64C-91BA-4614-A4C3-4314AC1C6746 (resized).jpeg

Oh - I forgot - here’s a quick view of the entire machine: nearly finished with the playfield work.. hallmark Romulan and Klingon ships are in my table now - awaiting resistors so I can finish soldering..

And I need to polish the top half of the play field… then it’s on to the boards to fix the 5v issue…

12CA7CDE-FB80-4CCC-A669-ED861A839BE6 (resized).jpeg

Damn.. Now I look at it - also the target decals... The Borg ship is actually dark grey but looks pretty black here. hmm need to think about that. But it is cool because I find it disappears until the flashers go off

D

Yep - good choice. Just remember to adjust the brightness to your liking before you screw everything down!!

That is an awesome collection my friend!!! The caps look great.

I try very very hard here…. 2K mods is another pin - Being a tightass , I typically buy broken Pins and restore them - actually I am starting to enjoy the restoration almost as much as playing them - until I get an issue I can’t fix. (Royal Rumble took months and I love the game but hate that machine…)
I don’t try to make money, Breakeven is fine - For me - I get the have a machine for a few months at no cost and hopefully save another machine from scrap..

I have 5 pins, 3 are keepers and 2 on a kind of forced rotation - I have no more space so have to sell one if I want another or lose the Pool table and that isn’t hapenning.
Now. The keepers, If there is a mod, I am a sucker but try to be reasonable - If the cost to me is a fair price for the effort, I will buy a couple in a year - but lots of mods are so way over priced I ignore them..

TZ - the other love of my life.. I was lucky and got one in good shape. I have a color DMD (PIN2DMD), I changed the slot scoop for the re-inforced one and the stronger clock targets, new clock board. I added LED’s, Car mod and a custom topper... So far that’s it. But in a box I have a Robby the Robot and camera that I bought and added LED’s to myself and a led Matrix that I am going to put in the back Glas in the door that needs an arduino.. The game is crying out for a cleanup when I could add the mods but I am scared to touch it in case something stops working…

The volume on my machines is always low, so I haven’t bothered with any sound upgrades and I haven’t changed the glass.
Oh, the keepers are TZ, STTNG and Whirlwind. “FEEL THE POWER OF THE WIND” - all other games are DMD but man, Whirlwind is awesome. You feel like a GOD if you hit the upper ramp..

Hi guys - I haven’t had to do any maintenance on my TX for over a year.. my remote battery cable came desoldered.. I have re soldered it and now my enter button is doing nothing. The other 3 buttons are working. Any ideas??

Switch is fine - I will check on the MPU board by forcing the switch action on the connector directly today… I think some solder is shorting something.
Damn - serves me right for trying to fix something in situ rather than unmounting the board.

Fixed - all my own dumb fault. Solder had leaked behind the board and shorted the chip below the battery point.

Hi All - big week this week for my TZ…5 projects to be completed as a small upgrade:
Pin sound
Home made Robby mod
Home made Camera mod
Upgraded switches on upper playfield..
And finally copying Duffy arcades idea I have a 256 LED light panel to go behind the door in the back panel.
I have the panel working - and I have gotten the colors down to 2 choices- will post a movie when all is installed…

OK - choices choices - let have you opinions..

attached 2 movies - the new door mod with Bleuend white effect or with Rainbow effect.

let me know which one you guys like -the machine currently switches every 30 seconds..

Blue:

Colour

let me know what you think - it is brighter in real life...

And shout out to DuffysArcade for the idea!!

Yeah me too the Blue goes with the scheme..

If you want one - its a "Homemade"... I can't do a how to but if you are OK with relatively simple electronics and computer work I can describe the process?
You will need:
An Arduino chip - I chose a nano and actually a 3rd party version, cost around €5 - if you are a beginner i recommend buying the real deal. its under $20
Then the LED panel, a power supply and some cables - you need t power the power supply and then just 3 cables from the Arduino to the LED panel - if you have repaired a pinball machine, this is easy.
A 5v power block - 256 LED's - I am not prepared to risk that with a 20 year old Williams 5v power supply

For the Arduino you need to program it from a computer. This required the Arduino software program and the PowerLED package - there are hundreds of how-to and you tube videos on how to do this - better than my explaining it to you..

If you want the exact light effect I have - PM me and I will send the mini file for you to program into the Arduino.

A small note - absolutely nothing happens until you have panel connected and the arduino programmed - if you run power to the panel - do not be discouraged and think it is dead when nothing happens - it only comes alive when the Arduino tells it to do something...

if you want to have a go - Pm me and I am happy to support - or post here and we we go through it together

Arduino chip - I chose a Nano - https://www.amazon.com/Arduino-A000005-ARDUINO-Nano/dp/B0097AU5OU/ref=sr_1_5

LED panel - I got it from Amazon, here a link to the 1st one in Amazon.com:
https://www.amazon.com/8x32-256-Individually-Addressable-Programmable/dp/B08T61FQKD/ref=sr_1_2_sspa

5v Power supply:
https://www.amazon.com/PHEVOS-Universal-Switching-Raspberry-Computer/dp/B074YHN8D1/ref=sr_1_7_sspa

Nice score- and a really nice table!

Not finished yet… actually if any other experts can help - I self made the camera - it is currently just an LED… I want this to flash with the Camera flashing light - but Williams flash circuits are AC. Any advice on how I run the LED? Is there some kind of Mini rectifier or something?

Sorry - I think I need to be clearer. I have a customer made Clock mod - it cannot use a pinball LED. It has a 3.3v standard LED in it - with a resistor to get the right voltage. But it needs a DC voltage. The TZ lighting is AC.. Has anybody overcome this issue and could let me know the components they used?

Yeah - I tried it. Dead.. I will double check to make sure it isn’t a cable or something…

Hi guys - I have an interesting issue.....
I just replaced the miniplayfield switches.

All is great. But. When I amin switch test and test the lower right mini playfield switch. It registers as switch 26 - trough proximity...
Is that supposed to be switch 46?

I which case I guess I need to follow the cable for that row right?

Hi all - I am sorry. I promised details of the light matrix and forgot to post photos…
See some close-ups

Matrix in machine
DF9629C6-EF99-43A7-923D-50211EAD5D68 (resized).jpegF3A3921C-FE8D-4DBF-B3A8-0F03AD8856BA (resized).jpeg
This is the Arduino behind the back box light board. It is attached with Velcro strips, same as the leds
0D0689CE-A128-4278-89C2-31CC9BECF9A7 (resized).jpeg
A close-up when I was testing- you only need to connect 5 cables to 3 terminals
176D8D54-7A26-4243-9EA2-8E2C5B537CB4 (resized).jpeg
I added this 5v transformer rather than burdon the psu. The ac power I spliced into the power line running between the on-off switch and the transformer in the bottom of the cabinet.
22302A34-B333-4438-AED5-3B8B61AE2852 (resized).jpeg

<blockquote cite="#6548417"

This works. It's ugly but it works. I have seen these in machines that I have purchased and I immediately rip them out.
If you need or want help reach out. I am located in a neighboring city.

Ugly? I think that’s a matter of personal taste - this is a small silver box that is hidden either under the playfield or in the back box. So long as the cables are cleanly done it is almost invisible. Talk to any Data East owner with the humming loudspeaker problem - months of diagnostics and work to see no difference - or a $20 power supply feeding the sound board and silence.
Most machines are fitted with LED’s partly to reduce the stress on the power supply. Anybody with a few Mods has to balance the number vs. power issues or add a new supply.

We are talking about an almost 30 year old device with a power board that was working at its Limit from new.. I don’t think adding a modern power supply that outputs clean 12v and 5v power is ugly. I call it protecting. How many TZ’S now have LED’S, GI OCD, a color screen, a pinsound and new loudspeakers? A lot of that stuff isn’t pretty, and adds more cables and circuit boards. But they improve the game

Each to their own but - my answer is, add a new power supply - buy a dual 12v and 5v version - same day/next day delivery, takes an hour, is barely noticeable, reduces stress on old components - and it works.

Your power supply isn’t repaired - you are acknowledging that the 5v section is no longer able to deliver a sustained 5v due to old components and wearing out.

If a new power supply is concerning - check out the Pinsound no-more-reset solution. This doesn’t replace the old 5v supply - if it drops below 5v it “tops it up” from the 12v circuit. Yes - this puts a strain on the 12v board - but this is tenths of volts for very short periods of time - minimal strain in my opinion - again just an opinion but probably significantly less stress that a 12v Mod. If the 5v supply fails - the board stops working to protect the 12v supply.
I Don’t know how some of the other solutions work - if they disconnect the 5v and use the 12v for the entire load - I agree, this is not a long term solution.

I am not disagreeing with the previous comment - If you find it ugly - it’s ugly. I am just saying, that this is a personal opinion and in my opinion - the Pro’s outweigh the cons.