(Topic ID: 63352)

Twilight Zone Owner's club

By Caucasian2Step

6 years ago

Topic Stats

  • 7,761 posts
  • 584 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 14 hours ago by Tranquilize
  • Topic is favorited by 314 Pinsiders


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Twilight Zone Mini Playfield Protector.pdf (PDF preview)
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twilight zone keyring.pdf (PDF preview)
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Twilight Zone missing plastic CMYK Vector - SPOT Colour Die trace.pdf (PDF preview)
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twilight ball divertor artwork Correct Size.pdf (PDF preview)
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#77 6 years ago
Quoted from seiman:

What do you think about how I fed my Gumball Machine?

IMG_2850[1].JPG 2 MB

Nice touch! I was preparing to do exactly the same thing!
The steel balls are more in-line with the back-glass art. There are no colored gumballs featured in any of the playfield or back-glass art so far as I can tell (save for the "loose" gumballs depicted on the gumball's plastic apron/ escutcheon). Good eye!
I especially like the icy blue tint you've given the feature. Once again, in keeping with the back-glass art and that overall "icy", cold, appearance - looks great.
Well done in keeping true to the depicted art.

Will post mine after I finish getting everything squared away. I've got a new gumball diverter and pcb setup constructed to replace the OEM part. Now, just bread-boarding different colors / color temp leds to find that perfect effect.

#81 6 years ago
Quoted from Waxx:

This thread is already epic because I thought there was no fix to the slot machine target, as I have never seen an unbent one.
Now I now you can replace it with a reinforced target. Sweet.

Those targets are available from here:

I recommend further enhancement of these targets. After installation of the slot target, the nuts began to vibrate off of the back side. Just add a castellated washer under the nut and a shot of loc-tite to prevent loosening. I caught the problem just in the nick of time.

I also see complaints regarding the slot machine kickout.
The original weldment tabs have a tendency to break and you cannot see this break without prying the slot scoop with your fingers and checking the tabs for damage. If broken, simply take the scoop to a professional welder who specializes in stainless steel (restaurant equipment suppliers are a good resource for recommendations). I paid $40 USD for the repairs - I had them place three 1/4" welds per side on the scoop. You might get a better deal but these guys did a perfect job for the price. After repair, the ball hits the right flipper - every time without deviation.

#113 6 years ago
Quoted from btw75:

Can you just verify that its those same hex head screws used for everything else? I assume it is. I'm contemplating just rotating the bracket a few degrees and putting new screws in - extracting the old ones and then filling/re-drilling seems a little unnecessary now that I've thought about it.

I just went and checked by removing one of the screws.
It is exactly the same as all of the other 1/4" head x 5/8" wood screws for mounting all other coil brackets.
Your proposed fix should work perfectly. I checked the mechanism and there is a little play which will allow slight rotation of its mounting position.

1 week later
#129 6 years ago
Quoted from flipper_fever76:

So yeah, in the club now. Love TZ, been on my hit list for quite a while. Was fortunate enough to make a deal w/ a local pinsider as well. Always makes things easier when it's local. I got a question for some of the veteran TZ owners, the divertor bounce back...gotta say, kind of a pain in the ass. I've seen the magnet fix on ebay but if there was another option, seems to me like this would be one of the first things to straighten out.

Here is a pic of my home-done fix.
Neodymium magnets were purchased in the hardware section of Home Depot.
One of the disc magnets was glued to the packaging pillow included by the manufacturer. The "pillow" or pad is used to add spacing to the magnets during handling and reduces the magnet's pull.
I've put this fix through several hundred cycles and it seems to work perfectly on the steel pinballs.

Another fix is to reduce the play in the mechanism by adding a washer to each side of the pivot point beneath the c-clip which holds the hinge pin in place. This helps with the Powerball - but I still get some random ejects from the carriage.

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#139 6 years ago

Finally finished my mods. Here are some pics.
Everything is custom constructed from the models which were provided to me by the original owner at sale. Said another way, I was provided with the toys - I had to add the "works" and install them.
While I was at it, I constructed an 8x8 wiring harness to give access to the lamp matrix. Disconnects were provided for service/removal purposes. Un-used conductors were simply capped off for possible future use or later simple removal should they prove unnecessary.

Camera.JPG El Roboto, Roberto.JPG Gumball.JPG Piano.JPG Rocket Hack.JPG Wiring harness i.JPG Wiring harness ii.JPG Mod disconnects.JPG
#154 6 years ago
Quoted from LitzDoc:

How do you jump to the LITZ mode? I would like to give it a try.

As noted above:
Press and hold the buy-in button any time during game play.
Then hit the Slot Machine or the Player Piano.

There is also a pause feature.
During game play you can trap the ball on either flipper.
While holding the flipper (and the trapped ball), press the buy-in button to pause game play for up to 15 minutes.
Reverse procedure to resume game play.

#164 6 years ago
Quoted from LitzDoc:

What does plug and play mean? No soldering.

Plug-and-Play generally means "no expert knowledge required for operation/ installation".
I would assume that the car is pre-wired - lighting circuits properly engineered for correct game interface.
I would also assume that the car is provided with a disconnecting means - most likely a way to plug the car into a nearby flasher socket for easy addition/removal.

I've been looking for the model as my next project.
The flasher lamp in the town square has a tendency to wander out from under the plastic after game play. This car could be a perfect way to manage that little inconvenience without having to re-rivet the lamp socket or replace the plastic/lamp socket combo.
Does this happen to anyone else?

Also, if someone could steer me toward a scale model, I would be most grateful. The words "some assembly required" are music to my ears.

2 months later
#201 5 years ago
Quoted from Methos:

My game is "clock broken", but it looks like it is working. Where do I start?

Here are some articles which may help:

I hope this helps guide you to a solution.

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