Quoted from Ashram56:

When the pinball tries to trigger it, a buzz is heard but nothing is triggered.

Quoted from Ashram56:

Would be interesting to see how you added washers.

Quoted from billsfanmd:

Picking up a TZ with a bad clock. Back in the club after a few years Without going through everything on here does ingo still make these. Thought I heard they were no longer avail..thx

Quoted from OSUBuckeye98:

I have not received a reply from Ingo yet. I had another pinsider tell me that he ordered a board yesterday and the transaction was refunded this morning. I would interpret that to mean he is not shipping to the states currently. I’ll just wait patiently and hope it gets sorted out.

Quoted from DakotaMike:

Hi, new owner here. I was wondering if anyone had a good way to get a hold of Ingo? I ordered an LED clock from him about a month ago

Quoted from DakotaMike:

Are there any other good replacements out there?

Quoted from misterman:

Thanks for both replies. I think I'll test the switches and then take out the sensor parts involved, poke around on them with my meter and add some solder like you said where it may be needed. Will report back if I have success.

Quoted from gregariousone:

Has anyone had any recent communication with Inglo for a clock board order?
For those who have previously ordered a board, did they forward tracking info when it was shipped?
I sent two order status inquiries (Sept & Dec) that have gone answered. Last info I received was back in July that they were to resume shipping sometime in August. Given it is 4 months later…. I am wondering a bit.

Quoted from jid:

The board from PinballLife (which is made by Casper’s) works great. I’ve had great success with it personally.

Quoted from mbaumle:

I also have a casper board and have had no issues with it.
It'd be nice if the LEDs were replaceable to match the game (to me, they're too harsh white), but it's a good consistent backlight with no hotspots.

Quoted from JohnTTwo:

So after getting lost in the zone, then the restart it said you are now entering the twight zone. I really had no idea what to do. Just seemed like a normal new game but I got a ton of points after the drain. Is this a special mode?

Quoted from WarriorPin:

Got reacquainted with a TZ in near perfect condition yesterday for a few games - what a blast, now I need to get one. I am an admitted TAF zealot, but TZ is a better machine...

Quoted from waldo34:

Just joined the club. Such an awesome pin. Looking for a broken plastic. Thanks
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Quoted from atg1469:

These folks won’t ship to the states unfortunately. There was a group where someone had setup a group buy scenario and would ship items to you from Pinball Center but he got burned one too many times on shipping issues and called it quits. It’s a bummer too because this place carries some very cool, one of a kind type items!

Quoted from IdahoRealtor:

My Dad's TZ has a display problem. What's this board on top of the DMD controller board? I don't see it listed in the manual.
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Quoted from EZ-Rhino:

I am having an issue with the one-way gate at the outhole on my TZ. Upon a ball drain, the solenoid fires and kicks the ball as per normal. However, the one-way wire gate, more times than not, spins counter-clockwise a full rotation so that it ends up on the opposite side of the metal guidepost and thus acts as "wrong-way" barrier for any subsequent ball that drains so that the ball just bounces back onto the solenoid actuator at the outhole and otherwise cannot move into the "rest" in order to be loaded back into the shooter lane. Anyone else ever have this issue? It just cropped up and I'm not sure as to what the best fix is... Thoughts from the group?
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Quoted from EZ-Rhino:

with the apron off so maybe I accidently screwed up the one-way gate. Thanks!

Quoted from Mikespinball:

You could get lucky (like me) and find a TZ topper that came off a IGT TZ slot machine. Very hard to find as I spent many years looking before I found mine. I do have a second one, but is missing the computer board that runs the light show that I would sell if interested. [quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from simonlindsay:

17y 25,650 9 3
Twilight Zone
I have been advised to repost in this forum.
After extensive research across numerous forums, PinWiki etc. I cannot solve the following issue. It all started when I wanted to clean one of the minute optos on the clock. There was no credit dot when I first fired up the machine and then the error message came up that the clock was broken - it began to stop half way through a feature. When I had put the clock back in, I got the "Check fuses F115 and F116 and Opto 12V supply, clock is broken and ball popper opto is stuck"
I found F116 kept blowing so I purchased a 3A circuit breaker (and a 5A for future use) after I had ordered 20 3A SB fuses as I had already blown my last three. I attached crocodile clips to the breaker and then to either end of the F116 fuse holder. It tripped all of my garage sockets. Is there a special way to attach the clips as on the breaker it states 'Line' and 'Load' for each prong.
Just before using the breaker, I removed J116, J117 and J118, put in a new fuse and it blew instantly. I have tested the TPs and here are the results:
TP1 136.1V TP2 5V TP3 11.96 TP7 23.26 TP8 17.63 The voltages do go up and down when testing but the ones listed are about the average. Fuse 116 is not in its holder (for obvious reasons) and I have removed the clock as I just need to clean one of the optos. Clearly, TP1 is a major problem!
According to PinWiki, it looks like BR5 and C30 could be the cause, but what has caused the problem in the first place? I don't want to have to replace both those components only for it to happen again. Is there a way to find the possible cause before I try and replace the BR5 and C30.
Everything else looks fine underneath and I've removed and reinstalled loads of connectors and the ribbons in the backbox.
Many thanks in advance.
Simon

Quoted from DuffysArcade:

Hoping for some help from the club. While sitting in attract mode for 20-30 mins, multiple solenoids just began firing randomly...then the F116 (12v) fuse blew and I smelled smoke. Before the fuse went, a coil seemed to be locking on which created smoke and sent me the wrong direction initially. I see nothing burned up on the power distribution board. The smoke seems to be from a coil getting hot from being locked on. I installed a 2.5A circuit breaker in the fuse block and shot this video of the behavior...

My switch matrix seems to be going absolutely nuts causing multiple coils to randomly fire.. Almost like there's some 12v getting into the switch matrix?
The game had been working fine. Hadn't changed or done anything in months to the machine. Completely out of the blue.

Quoted from Manny65:

I’d disconnect the PF switch connectors on the CPU board to confirm it’s an issue on the board. Try pressing on the ASIC and any socketed chip on the CPU board, to ensure they are seated well. If the problem persists, I’d swap in a CPU board (eg from your TAF) - need to change the game ROM over. This will confirm if this issue is on the CPU board.
Is the circuit breaker that’s now in F116 being tripped? Note that F116 is 12v unreg while the switch matrix uses the 12v reg power. If F116 is still being tripped, then disconnect J116-J118, if it still blows then that issue is on the power driver board

Quoted from DuffysArcade:

Looks like my culprit is the 100uF cap on the 10-Opto PCB under the PF. Explains all of the behavior i saw (and the smoke).
simonlindsay have you checked your machine for the same issue? You and I seem to be having very similar problems, and when I searched the forum for "Gumball Popper Opto", I see some previous posts in regards to the same problem.
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Quoted from harig:

Wow, nice burn
Seems those 100uF caps fail more often on the (opto) boards- tough never seen such a serious fail before

Quoted from bakerhillpins:

HA! - Extra ball and Special awarded to both of you for this... I've been chasing an issue where all the opto switch inputs on my TZ were "flickering/pulsing". This could easily be seen in the switch matrix tests. But it was intermittent for me and it would just go away while debugging. And it was always while I was poking around in a different area of the game so it seemed like it was a bad connection but it didn't track that way. Anyway, I pulled the Opto board because of this post and sure enough the 100uf 35v cap was already leaking (underneath so it wasn't yet visible). I'm going to pull the opto boards from all my remaining games and replace the filter caps on them this week.
After replacement the intermittent problem became permanent. Which made debugging easier. The best part about this was that my daughter (who loves to play pinball) joined me to help debug and fix the problem. Was a great evening for sure.
After a bit of walking through the issue we found that the unregulated +12vdc supply was low. So why did that take so long? Well, because after all these years of working on WPC games it just never sunk in that there are 2 12v supplies on the driver board. I'm sure I've been down this road before but honestly I just moved past actually tracing the power from the opto board because I kept testing the +12 logic power. My daughter is the one that finally got me to actually test the power to the Opto board and it was low (+9,8v). Forest for the trees? Never assume I guess... Once that was apparent we walked back through the power feed and found that the unregulated +12vdc supply was low. I tested the input AC (9.8vac) and it seemed fine at 12vAC so I figured one side of the bridge rectifier opened up. We replaced it but still got a low +12vdc. Turns out there was a problem with the IDC connector. Which, at this point, should have been one of the first places I went. Anyway, it's all working now, I have a bunch of filter caps to replace, and I have a bridge rectifier that I swapped out for no reason.
Regardless, game works and I spent a few quality hours with my daughter. Win

Quoted from Tpbw:

Just want to say the ingo clock board from Germany is by far the best replacement board I have seen, i've fixed many tz's and it's totally worth the wait to get the Ingo board. Not to mention how much of a pleasure it was to Deal with the support staff when I had shipping issues. They reshipped the board with tracking info on their coin. Don't be afraid to upgrade your old underdesigned tz clock with a board that actually works. This one was for a customer but i will be buying another for my tz soon. https://www.german-pinball-modular.de/final-tz-clock-pcb-english.html

Quoted from Redfive05:

And if you order your Ingo board now, you might get it sometime this decade!
6 months, 0 updates unless I asked, first time I asked "It will ship in two weeks" When I asked 3 months later where it was I was told I needed to pick the $17 shipping without tracking and it could take up to three months to ship, or $47 with tracking and it might take a few days. When I told them I already picked the $17 shipping I was told we haven't shipped because some of the ones they shipped that way didn't arrive.
Excuse, excuse, excuse...
If I have only one good thing to say its that when I asked for my money back there was no argument.
Don't lie to me.... if you forgot to ship it, just say it.... if you can't get parts, just say it... if this was suppose to be a pre-order, just say it! (there was a rumor going around that they can't get the optos, if they just said that I would take the board without them seeing I already have replacement optos from other projects ready to go)
Unless you have $130 to just throw into the wind and see what happens stay away from the Ingo board.