I've been having issues with the pesky Upper Right Flipper Flasher (#37).

At first, it was stuck on. I did some searching on this forum and some other online resources, and performed some troubleshooting leading me to the A-16100 8-Driver PCB Assembly board. Using a DMM, I tested specifically transistors Q16 (a TIP-102) and Q8 (a 2N4403), with Q16 reading with the range of .4-.6, and Q8 reading outside. So, I decided to replace the two transistors respectively.

At the same time, I replaced the incandescent bulb with an LED #906.

After doing the above, I fired up the pin, and the flasher appeared to be functioning (blinking), was no longer stuck in on, passed the flasher test T.5, and I thought all was good. After playing a few games, I noticed the flasher was became solidly lit on, without blinking, so I'm thinking damn, it's stuck in the on position again, so I turned the game off. Hoping that power cycling the pin may reset the flasher, when the pin boots up, it boots without any Test errors, but when I rerun Flasher Test T.5, the flasher in question no longer lights up or blinks, and does not light during gameplay.

All other flashers in the flasher test menu pass successfully.

Are there any other recommended tests, troubleshooting suggestions, or things I should check? I'm open to any ideas.

Thanks!

DtF

UPDATE: On a whim, decided to play around a go through reseating the cable connections on the 8-Driver PCB board again, and that flasher now works and passes the flasher test. I'm back in business!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/twilight-zone-a-variety-of-troubleshooting

Didn't want to clog this thread, but can any of you swing by my TZ-related thread to lend some advice?

For those of you who've already stopped by, thanks for your time.

Hey Dan,

Have you happen to take a look at my thread I posted above in #3420?

Looking for any feedback and reviews of the Rottendog WDB008 replacement board for the 8-Driver PCB Assembly (A-16100).

I read the description (http://rottendog.us/WDB008.html), and see that they modified the design slightly, and looking at the picture, confirmed that the changes were to simplify (remove) some of the smaller jumpers/transistors.

Has anyone swapped out their board, and/or have any experience with the performance of the new one? How would its simplified design affect future troubleshooting and diagnosis with the removal of some of the smaller transistors?

Any feedback would be appreciated!

Thanks

Thanks for taking the time to check in. I'm reading what people have replied with, and following up the suggestions.

I'm strongly considering spending the $42 for the Rottendog replacement A-16100 8-Driver PCB board to hopefully address the locked on flashers.
Also going to replace the Left Ramp switch with a new one.

As for the lamp issue, the issue is not that the lamps are fluttering (forgot to mention they are not fluttering), it's that when running through the "Single Lamps" (T.8) test for individual lamps, additional lamps are turning on when they are not the lamps being selected. For example, when I select Lamp 75 "Power Payoff" to test, not only does lamp 75 light up as it should, but lamps 84 (Piano Red) and 85 (Slot Machine) also light up, when they should not. I'll be updating my thread with a more current Lamp Matrix findings table that I updated after additional troubleshooting took place last night.

Thanks again for everyone's time and assistance.

Funny you mention the CPU board, as my neighbor and fellow TZ owner mentioned this last night as well. He/we removed all cable and ribbon connections from the CPU board, pushed wires back into the cheap punch down connectors, and reconnected to verify they were indeed connected to the CPU board correctly. Doing this had an effect on the Lamp Matrix findings (posted in sub-thread). I didn't think the re-seat and of the chips, and the battery holder was removed from the board by a previous owner, and there is no damage to the board from the battery acid leakage.

Another idea we are going to try is for him to bring his known working TZ CPU board over and we're going to see how this affects the findings.

What is the consensus for replacement battery type to use for the three AA batteries (and not NVRAM chip )?

^^^Thx

As a newer TZ owner, you may find me hanging by a TZ at PAGG picking fellow owners' brains on their TZ. I haven't had any free time to work on my lighting issue I've discussed in my TZ Troubleshooting thread, but I'm hoping to work on in the next few days prior to the show, so that I can talk shop, and purchase any parts and LEDs from the show if I need.

I'll be the inebriated yet coherent guy, possibly asking the same question thrice!

I read in another TZ thread that some are applying magnetic tape and a magnet to this area.

Link: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-definitive-twilight-zone-lock-shot-fix-thread

Has anyone installed the GLM Mini-Playfield switch kit, and one of the 4 switches not register? I installed today, and the front left sign switch assembly does not register? I don't know if it's my solder job, or the little board the wires connect to. I have a feeling I'll need to take the mini playfield back off, and resolder the contacts.

Here's a look at the connections

Mini PF Left Sign Switch (resized).jpg

Doh, nice find!
I'll give it a closer look and do a resolder...after I get the mini playfiled back out....yay me haha

Reporting back that the issue I was having with one of the GLM mini playfield switches is back to good. I removed the mini playfield, then the switch, resoldered the wires, and it now registers.

Thanks for the suggestions.