(Topic ID: 63352)

Twilight Zone Owner's club

By Caucasian2Step

10 years ago


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Topic index (key posts)

8 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #5897 Updated 9.4H manual with corrections from Coyote Posted by Coyote (5 years ago)

Post #8716 Have your picture taken in the translight Posted by Neal_W (3 years ago)

Post #10381 Switching to stereo sound. Posted by hawknole (2 years ago)

Post #11803 How to Add 3rd Magnet. Posted by mbaumle (2 years ago)

Post #11810 Third Magnet Parts List Posted by mbaumle (2 years ago)

Post #13048 Board replacement options. Posted by DumbAss (1 year ago)

Post #14049 Flipper cabinet opto board data Posted by DumbAss (10 months ago)

Post #14166 More key board data Posted by DumbAss (9 months ago)


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#3394 7 years ago

I'm very close to picking up a TZ, but it does not have LEDs, and this is something I would definitely like to do.

I'm new to the hobby and not very savvy yet, so I'd like to know what the cost would be (and if you could recommend some good quality lights) and most importantly, how much work is involved?

Is it just pulling out the incandescent and replacing with the LEDs?

Thanks in advance

#3398 7 years ago

Any suggestions on site to buy from, and is there a list of the types of bulbs I will need?

Do you suggest doing it bit by bit (for example, doing the door lights on the play field, and then moving on to another part?)

Again, I'm totally new to the hobby, not the most technically inclined, but I'm willing and happy to learn.

Thank you all so much. Hoping to be part of the TZ crew soon

#3405 7 years ago

I was looking at some stuff on Youtube, and the suggestion was to color match the areas you're upgrading. So is the item is blue on the playfield, you'd want to use a blue LED?

Make any sense?

Also, is it better to go with superbrights like these:

http://cointaker.com/products/555-super
http://cointaker.com/products/44-47-super

Or these:

http://cointaker.com/products/44-47-frosted
http://cointaker.com/products/555-frosted

#3433 7 years ago

Out of curiosity, does anyone know what a TZ was selling for back in 1993?

#3442 7 years ago

Got my TZ today!!! I'm officially in the club!

Only issue now is that in order to get to 6.5 degrees on the slant, I have to screw the front casters at the way in (lowest point) and raise the read casters all the way up (highest point) and still I'm at like 6.3 degress!

I don't like the way it feel, because the casters are raised so high, that there is a wobble to it.
Is there something wrong with my floors? The previous owner had it set about half way in the back, and quarter way in the front to get 6.5 degrees.

On my MMr, the back legs and front legs are screwed all the way in (lowest point) and that comes in at about 7 degrees, which I like for that game.

HELP!

#3446 7 years ago

Hnmmmm....

What should the leg length be in the front and back?

As for the holes... There are 3? As in, you could set it in a higher or lower position?

Thank you all

#3447 7 years ago

Looks like they sell all 4 legs at 28.5" for TZ:

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=140

#3448 7 years ago

One more thing... I change the date and time in the menu, but as soon as I turn the machine off and back on, it resets it to: 3:17pm April 27, 2017

My machine is Rev 9.4 CH

Thanks

#3449 7 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

One more thing... I change the date and time in the menu, but as soon as I turn the machine off and back on, it resets it to: 3:17pm April 27, 2017
My machine is Rev 9.4 CH
Thanks

DISREGARD! I read that the NVRAM does not store date/time.

Back to the other problem... Can anyone help me figure out how to level my pin without extending the leg levelers fully on the back legs.

Checked the legs and they're 28.5" all around.

Did all TZ machines come with 3 holes in the back? Would like to know before I pull this machine out from the wall again and get it up on chairs.

Thanks

#3451 7 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Yep, 3 holes all around...

From the back of the machine, measuring from the bottom of the cabinet, to the center of my lowest bolt, it's roughly 2.5".

Is there a third hole lower than that?

#3456 7 years ago

Would it make sense to use the 2 lowest holes on the back, and the two highest holes on the front to bring the front down and increase slant?

#3463 7 years ago

So it appears I was using the lowest holes in the front. Going to try raising the front to the top position.

Also, what can I buy to prevent further damage shown here in photo?

IMG_20170327_125411 (resized).jpgIMG_20170327_125411 (resized).jpg

#3465 7 years ago

Question about the photo above. The metal protectors shown are screwed into the cabinet. If I want to move them up a notch, I would have to screw new holes to mount it. I'd prefer not to do this. Is there another option? Can I use rubber/plastic protectors, or something else that doesn't need to be screwed in?

And before I get deeper into this, does it make sense that the back legs could be on the bottom top holes, and the front on the top two holes? It clearly raises the legs up in the front to create a greater slant angle, but does having the front and back legs in different hole positions create any issues?

Thanks

#3468 7 years ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

I may actually need to do the same thing, though this is mainly because the game is in a section of my garage where the floor is slanting towards the garage door. I didnt even think of this as an option, heh. thnx!

Can you let me know if it works out. I just went to do it and noticed one of the leg levellers is stripped, so now I need to replace it.

I'm just curious to know if the machine becomes lopsided at all if we go on the bottom setting in the rear, and top setting in the front.

#3469 7 years ago

About to buy some legs. The ones I have now sort of match the silver trim on the machine.

Do you guys think this would be a good fit:

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=4128

And then for the protectors, most of what I read suggests that we should use metal protectors.

However, I was looking at PinCab protectors, and I really like that I would not have to drill additional holes.

Does anyone know if we can use these on our cabinets:

http://pinballfanatic.com/products/pincab-protectors/

#3471 7 years ago
Quoted from nosro:

If you are trying to match the original legs, you probably want the ribbed legs: http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=140. I've purchased countless sets of these Pinball Life legs. You linked the non-ribbed legs.
Those plastic protectors (which cover beyond what the legs cover) are generally used when you need to cover up existing damage, but most people find that it does not prevent further damage since nudging will simply cause the plastic to move around, further damaging the decal. The metal protectors work by isolating the leg movement from the decal.

Thanks! Appreciate the reply!

So before I buy these, can anyone confirm that it is possible to put the rear legs in the lowest position, and the front legs in the highest position?

It makes sense to me, to give me more of a slant, but just wanted to make sure it's doable.

Thanks

#3475 7 years ago

Still no one chiming in on this hahaha!

"can anyone confirm that it is possible to put the rear legs in the lowest position, and the front legs in the highest position?
It makes sense to me, to give me more of a slant, but just wanted to make sure it's doable."

Anyone??????????

#3482 7 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Two people, including myself, already said to go for it:

Ooooops, was looking at this one my phone and somehow missed those.

Was just at my local pinball shop, and the guy there mentioned I could get 31" legs to raise the back more, rather than raising the front legs and running the risk of extra decal damage.

He had a set of Gottlieb legs that he said would fit. Does anyone know if the B/W chrome ribbed legs come in a longer than 28.5" size?

Thanks

#3485 7 years ago
Quoted from johninc:

This thread reminds me of people putting stronger flipper coils in their games when the real solution is to rebuild the flippers. If you have 28.5" legs all around, in the bottom two holes all around, you should be good to go. If you aren't, your floor isn't level.

My floor definitely isn't level, but that's a whole separate issue.

Using a digital level, the floor appears to slope by about 1 degree. Not sure why that is causing the game to be so losing the back, but it is.

So, now I have to work with what I've got.

Does anyone know where to get legs for this machine longer than 28.5"?

#3487 7 years ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

How long is the shaft on your leg levelers? 2" or 3"?
I had to put 3" leg levers on the back of mine due to my wonky garage floor slope.

3" and they're extended almost all the way up to get me at 6.5 degrees.

I'd settle with that except for the fact that it is now very wobbly in the back.

#3489 7 years ago
Quoted from AlexSMendes:

OK - To end this discussion: these are the best TZ legs ou can get. PERIOD.

Are they longer than 28.5"

#3490 7 years ago

Would 31" Gottlieb legs fit properly?

#3497 7 years ago
Quoted from canea:

Yes, the ones on mine are 31 inch. They work, but after reading these comments I realized they're the wrong legs. The downside to the longer legs is that you'll have to mount them on the top 2 holes (possibly resulting in art damage unless protected, as others have noted), and your machine will likely look slightly too tall if it's side by side with other machines. Mine's next to a Theatre and the height at the rails/top of backbox is about an inch higher than it should be. The 31 inch legs also give it a slightly wider footprint on the floor.

What do you mean by you realized they were the wrong ones based on comments. I didn't see anything suggesting that.

Also, curious as to why you would need to use the top two holes for thew longer legs? Couldn't you just use the bottom ones? What would the difference be?

I figure that I have my levellers extended by 2.5-3" now, so using a 31" leg would essentially be the exact same height without extending the levellers at all ad getting more sturdiness from that too.

#3498 7 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

What do you mean by you realized they were the wrong ones based on comments. I didn't see anything suggesting that.

Also, curious as to why you would need to use the top two holes for thew longer legs? Couldn't you just use the bottom ones? What would the difference be? I have a metal protector on the bottom two holes now, and would just love that on too.

I figure that I have my levellers extended by 2.5-3" now, so using a 31" leg would essentially be the exact same height without extending the levellers at all ad getting more sturdiness from that too.

#3499 7 years ago

On another subject, does anyone know where to get replacements for the bulb condoms, like the red one on the gumball ramp sign?

#3504 7 years ago
Quoted from nosro:

But they are out of yellow and green on the "thick" ones which cover 555 bulbs:
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=311
The thin ones will not cover 555 bulbs:
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=312

Do you know if they use thin or thick ones on TZ?

I need some for 44 and 555 bulbs.

#3513 7 years ago

Congrats! I got mine the other day, and it's pretty awesome to have such a great game right there in your home to play anytime

#3514 7 years ago

Is anyone using PinGuard protectors?

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1403

I have read, and it says right in the description, that it should not be used for cabinets with decals.

Just wanted to get some feedback.

Thanks

#3516 7 years ago

Ok, good to hear. I have those metal ones on my machine now, but was just checking to see if there were other better options.

Are the metal ones better than PinCabs?

#3517 7 years ago

Curious to know what slant you guys have your machine at?

I'm at about 6.5-6.6 degrees right now, and the game feels pretty fast.

#3520 7 years ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

Pincabs are fine on original screen printed cabs and also help cover up prior damage from having no protectors.

So, PinCabs vs. Metal protectors?

#3521 7 years ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

7.0 on mine and plays well ....

Do you have the levellers cranked up to the max in the back?

#3525 7 years ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

Nope about half way.... ill probably raise it a little more here soon to around 7.5

Are you using a digital level to measure?

My floors must really be sloped because I'm at the way up and only get 6.60

I also can't nudge this thing side to side. I have rubber feet on it, and it's very difficult to get a good tilt.

However, I have been nudging the machine forward, and I do save a few balls!

#3532 7 years ago

Was checking out the menu settings, and under features there is a setting for "Outlane Diff" and by default it's set to Easy.

Can anyone explain what this does?

Thanks

#3537 7 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Whether or not lit outlines hold over to the next ball.

So "Hard" would mean they don't?

Also, what is "Free Ride"?

#3542 7 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Correct.
Say on Ball 1, you get the Camera award 'Lite Outlanes'. You get the Left one, but do not get the right one. You drain.
Ball 2, none are lit anymore on 'Hard'. On 'Easy', the Right one will still be lit when switched.
Free Ride is the ball saver.

Cheers

#3543 7 years ago

What the trick to keeping the ball from coming out of the bumpers and going straight down the left outlane?

It's brutal! I'll be having a pretty good game, and then I end up in the bumpers and have what feels like zero control over what happens from there.

Love the game, but I'm not sure about those bumpers.

#3559 7 years ago

Curious to know what you guys put up as an average score.

I'm at about 200mil on easy setting (default) and feel like the game is always kicking my ass.

I need to learn where the big points are. During Multiball, I would normally just try to keep the ball alive, but then I saw a video on YouTube yesterday, and saw that during each Multiball there is a jackpot!

I also saw that you could restart the Multiball???

This game is definitely more complex than my MMR!

#3581 7 years ago

Question for owners who nudge their machines... Do you find it more effective to have the game on carpet or rubber feet, where it sort of stays in place, or is it better to have it on sliders so it moves around a little?

I understand that on sliders you're less likely to damage the cab, but when I play my MMR without rubber feet, it moves so much on my laminate floor that the nudge just slides the machines across the floor and doesn't really do much for redirecting the ball.

#3589 7 years ago

Is it just my machine, or is it brutal trying to hot the LOCK ramp?

Only way I seem to be able to hit it, is when he slot machine ejects to the right flipper, bouncing to the left, and as it slowly rolls down the left flipper I shoot it from almost the very last point.

Otherwise, it seems nearly impossible to hit it.

#3596 7 years ago
Quoted from AlexSMendes:

Nope, piece of cake

Hnmmmm... From what point on the left flipper do you usually shoot to hit it?

I have to trap, let it roll down, and fire it at almost the last point. Letting it go right to the edge is how I hit the Gumball slot.

#3599 7 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Sounds like your flippers aren't adjusted right.
You will notice two holes - original OEM fields had metal tension pins through them, not sure about Mirco's fields - about 2/3 the way down each flipper. The flipper - WITHOUT rubber - should rest on a toothpick sticking up from this hole.

So, take the rubber off, loosen​ the bolt that holds the flipper in place under the playfield, put a toothpick in the hole, rest the bat on the toothpick, then tighten the bolt again. Then replace rubber. Sound right?

#3603 7 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

True, but keep in mind two things:
It's easier without having to hold the straight-edge, and
The designer may not have wanted it perfectly straight like that!

Is it just one bolt that I undo to adjust the flipper?

Does anyone by chance have a photo?

#3605 7 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

There are typically two set screws on the little donut thingy around the flipper shaft. A small allen wrench is needed but make sure and get one that fits solid as they can strip out easily.

Can anyone take a pic?

#3607 7 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

Yeah here... Not a TZ specifically as I'm not at home but this is the style of flipper (my brain had gone stupid to a different old style flipper for a minute there)
Its just the clamp type connection secured with the single bolt.

Looks like the same one as my MMR.

Thanks

#3617 7 years ago

Should my flipper be moved down more?

IMG_20170406_004645 (resized).jpgIMG_20170406_004645 (resized).jpg

#3619 7 years ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

Toothpick in the hole for the correct position .......

Toothpick is aligned with the hole on the outside of the rubber! No good?

#3621 7 years ago

Taken with phone laying on glass right above flipper.

IMG_20170406_015616 (resized).jpgIMG_20170406_015616 (resized).jpg

#3626 7 years ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

It should be aligned with the inside of the rubber. You should move it down.

Thanks for all the help everyone!

#3627 7 years ago

Played a game tonight and had everything lit up except Super Skill Shot, Light Gumball and the "?" box.

My score was only about 300mil, and I'm on factory easy settings. Did I make it close to LITZ????

Also, as I'm getting things around the door, the "Gum" and "Ball" as well as "Lock 1" and "Lock 2" go out. Do these modes have to be restarted after initially lighting them on the door? And what do they do in the game?

Thanks

#3669 7 years ago

Having a little issue with Spiral magnet. When I lite spiral, and I shoot it into the lane, the ball stick to the magnet, but then it just hangs there. I have to give the machine a little nudge, and then the ball starts rolling down. Any ideas?

Also, noticed that the machine was really wobbly tonight. Went around and tightened all the legs bolts, and noticed that one in the back was not making contact. I screw it in fully, and it just continued to rotate lie it's not catching. I took the bolt out and tried in another leg hole, and it held. So looks like it's the bracket.

Would I need to get one of these to replace: http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=144

Looks like there is a ground screwed attached to one of the screws on the current bracket as well. Can anyone confirm.

Thanks

#3673 7 years ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

If you set the ball there, you may notice either the ball is magnetized or the metal core is not level with the playfield. You can easily adjust the height of those and replace them when too beat up and gouged.

How would you suggest testing the magnet?

And if I needed to replace, could you point me to a spot I could find the part, and possibly directions to do the install.

Thanks

#3676 7 years ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

I mean - test the balls there and see if they stick with the power off, meaning they are magnetized.
Also, check if the metal core is level with the playfield, or if there is a ridge there.

Looks like it's level.

However, with the power off, the ball does not seem to stick to the magnet. On the spiral ramp, the ball looks to hold a little bit just above the magnet (not directly on it).

The magnet itself has some wear on it, and has some black scuffs.

Also, I'm not sure if the magnet on the right ramp is working or not, but sometimes when the ball auto-launces, it will not make the full orbit around to come out where the spiral is.

Any ideas?

#3680 7 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

...With the power off, the ball should NOT stick to the magnet. It's an electro-magnet, not a rare Earth magnet. That means it needs power to work Think about it - if it just grabbed the ball all the time, how could you ever get the ball past it?
You need to take the glass off, power the game on, put it in test mode and turn the magnet on - THEN see if it sticks

Makes total sense. Will try it out tonight.

If I do need a replacement, or just want to replace and have new magnets in there, do I just need these:

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1837

#3703 7 years ago

Has any had an issue with ball launches not making the full orbit? When I get a Ball Saved or Multiball, and the ball gets shot out, it looks to stop around this point shown in the photo. Note sure if it's the magnet, guides, or something else.

Also when I shoot the ball into lock, about 1 out of 3 times, it will roll back out. It sounds like it's hitting something metal before it pops back out.

Any help would be appreciated

IMG_20170410_160931 (resized).jpgIMG_20170410_160931 (resized).jpg

#3706 7 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Has any had an issue with ball launches not making the full orbit? When I get a Ball Saved or Multiball, and the ball gets shot out, it looks to stop around this point shown in the photo. Note sure if it's the magnet, guides, or something else.
Also when I shoot the ball into lock, about 1 out of 3 times, it will roll back out. It sounds like it's hitting something metal before it pops back out.
Any help would be appreciated

Spoke to previous owner, and he mentioned that this was normal for him regarding the Lock issue. From videos I've watched, it should not be doing this.

Ball is still not completing an orbit. Curious to know if anyone has experienced this or knows a fix.

#3715 7 years ago
Quoted from nosro:

I also get perhaps 1 out of 10 autolaunched balls end up rattling enough in the orbit such that it falls back down the right orbit.

This is normal and a common complaint: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-definitive-twilight-zone-lock-shot-fix-thread

Thanks for the link. I tried putting magnetic tape along both sides, but no improvement.

I guess I have to try mounting the other magnet to draw it in more.

As for the autolauncher, it does seem to hit something an rattle. Can't quite figure out what it is. Maybe have to record it in slow motion. Seems to happen about 1/3 times.

#3790 7 years ago

Just had my best game yet! Lit up the entire door and had the Handle flashing. Wasn't sure what to do, and before I could figure it out, I drained!!! So close!!!

What do I need to hit to get to LITZ?

#3814 7 years ago

Where do you guys suggest getting the best rubbers for slingshots and posts?

Also, do you guys happen to know the sizes I will need?

Mine are a bit dirty, and I'd like to get some new ones in there.

#3839 7 years ago

Do you guys suggest using traditional rubber rings or silicon rings for TZ?

Also, any recommendations for changing out my flipper rubbers?

#3847 7 years ago
Quoted from nosro:

I also get perhaps 1 out of 10 autolaunched balls end up rattling enough in the orbit such that it falls back down the right orbit.

This is normal and a common complaint: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-definitive-twilight-zone-lock-shot-fix-thread

I still haven't figured out the auto-launch issue, but thanks for sending the link on the Lock fix.

I bought some .5" magnetic tape from Home Depot, and it did nothing. Bought some 1" on Amazon, put it in tonight, and so far it seems to have fixed the problem. I did not have to add the magnet on top, as it seems the magnetic strip alone is working.

Cheers!

#3848 7 years ago

Was watching this guy play, and he's unreal!

Curious to know how he keeps getting the Piano Jackpot over and over? I thought that you could get it once, then relight by hitting Lock, and then get a second Jackpot only?

Can anyone tell me how he's doing this?

1 week later
#3975 6 years ago

Just curious to know your opinion of LED vs SMD for inserts and backbox lighting?

I know what I want to do for GI, and I think I'm going to go SMD for the inserts, and fronted LED for the backbox.

Also, I'm thinking natural white over warm white to modernize the game.

Just wanted to get some thoughts.

#3976 6 years ago
Quoted from Miguel351:

This is only TZ related since it happened on my TZ, but:
Does anybody use any kind of tilt mechanism dampener? I ask because mine seems to be swinging like a swing set in a windstorm most of the time. Most annoyingly, it happened two nights ago when I was on pace to break my GC score and as soon as I collected the Spiral extra ball award, it went Danger, Danger 2x, and Tilt in about the same amount of time it took to read those words. I immediately opened up the coin door and that thing is dancin' in there.
Now, I'm not a nudger, nor am I one of those players that every time they hit the flipper buttons it looks like someone's got a taser to their butts. I consider myself a very calm player. in fact, I rarely even nudge a pin when the ball is heading to the outlanes(usually because I feel like when I DO nudge it, I'm actually HELPING the ball drain).
So how do I calm this thing down? I ended up just 14mil points short of my GC score of 1.82Bil, and it really got to me that if I had collected that extra ball, I would have obliterated that GC. Man, was it fun getting there, though.
Oh, and Coyote, I think you and I have our games set up almost identical. I, too, love long game times.

Mine is pretty sensitive too. I turned the tilt warning up to 3 from 2, but it still was an issue (I nudge a bit excessively).

I think I'm going to get a new plumb that you squeeze from the bottom to adjust (like I have in my MMR). I find the twist screw one to sit a little too high on the rod in my game, and it's much more difficult to adjust and find the lowest position.

Usually, I just remove it altogether though when I want to play a bunch of games and not have the irritation of tilt warnings ruining things.

#3986 6 years ago

Decided to play a quick game before bed, and ended up getting LITZ!!! Pretty awesome stuff! Shit the bed with the next two balls and only got a total of 850mil, but still pretty stoked to have done LITZ!

#3999 6 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

That said: the mech that grabs the ball when it goes up the right ramp, to keep it from going to the MPF is dropping the ball occasionally. I haven't ever had an issue with it so I don't know how it works - is there a magnet in there or something?

Mine has been doing that lately too, but not often enough that it bugs me.

Here's a fix: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tz-tip-cheap-diverter-magnet-mod-works-great

The link that was sent to you below refers to the Lock ramp issue.

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8,500 (Firm)
Machine - For Sale
Milwaukee, WI
$ 1,059.00
Pinball Machine
Mircoplayfields
 
$ 27.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
 
Wanted
Machine - Wanted
Corona, CA
$ 79.99
Cabinet - Armor And Blades
PinGraffix Pinside Shop
 
$ 62.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Lermods
 
$ 25.00
Cabinet - Decals
Pinball Haus
 
From: $ 100.00
Lighting - Interactive
Professor Pinball
 
$ 1,059.00

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