(Topic ID: 63352)
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Twilight Zone
Bally, 1993
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Sandviken
3 weeks later
1 month later
Quoted from FlippinJimmy:I left the machine off for a little while and when I turned it back on the game went straight into a reboot. Even without playing or using the flippers the machine just kept rebooting. Since I am not using any of the electronics do you still think the suggested fix is the way to go or something more serious?
If you know how to solder change BR2, bridge rectifier, and C5 filter capacitor and your game will 99% sure stop reset.
Might also be cracked pins at connector J101 but changing BR2 and C5 usually fix it.
Quoted from FlippinJimmy:Spoke to soon. Problem started again after playing 4-5 games.[quoted image]
Cracked header pin/s.
When after reseating the connectors the game works for a while and then stop again it would indicate a cracked header pin.
Anyway TZ is an old game with BR:s and Capacitors running on over time so changing them and resolder the pins is never a bad idea.
9 months later
3 weeks later
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Is there a definitive test for transistors while installed in a game? I've seen two different ways to do it, and it's a little confusing. My left main playfield magnet keeps blowing a fuse, and I haven't had a chance to address it. I'm thinking the transistor failed so I might go ahead and replace it. But looking up the tests, I'm confused whether I touch the red to the middle tab and black to ground, or if I'm testing the outside legs?
Short answer no.
To be 100% sure it needs to be tested of circuit but they can be tested with pretty high accuracy also when in the game.
How to do it depends of the transistor type, Tip 102, Tip 36 etc, but it is easy if you have a DMM.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Thanks for the clarification! I think it's a Tip 102, but need to verify.
A "dirty" way of testing a Tip 102 is to set the DMM to buzz and then put one lead on the ground strap and the other on the metal tab of the Tip 102.
If you get a buzz the transistor is for sure bad.
Make sure to only do this with the game off!
If it checks out as good in above test then set the DMM to diode position and put the black lead on the metal tab and the red lead to first one of the outside leg and then the other.
You should get a reading of .4 to .6 volts on either leg. Any other reading and the transistor is most likely bad.
(When putting the red lead to the center leg you should see a zero reading)
2 weeks later
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:Ugh, that's a mod? I thought I got them all off (a pyramid and space ship!). I googled TZ playfield and saw this same clock mod on some other playfields (or at least one), so thought it was stock.
Other than the PinStadiums, anything else standing out on my playfield that looks to be a mod?
[quoted image]
Blue flipper rubber, different color rubber rings on posts etc.
2 months later
5 months later
Quoted from awesome1:For me - I always play for LITZ and points! If having a really good game, there's the rare possibility of a second or third LITZ![quoted image]
My personal best is three LITZ in one game with a total of just over 4 billion. If I remember correct, the best LITZ score in that game was just over 650 million.
Only managed three LITZ in one game twice in the 15 years I have had the game. Two on several occasions and one I can get pretty regularly if I am going for LITZ.
I am just an average player at best normally but there is something about TZ that suits my playing style and make me a better player than I am.
Quoted from jawjaw:I would say you are better than average. How do you get so many points in LITZ? I have yet to beat the default high score and only get around 270m or less.
That is far from my regular score in LITZ. More normal is 350-400 million.
I can´t say that I have a clear strategy, too many balls flying every were for that in LITZ
But get a ball or two up to the power is always good, otherwise just make sure the balls are on the playfield all the time and not in the ball trough.
Quoted from jawjaw:I haven't played TZ in a while. Two games in a few nights ago and I'm in LITZ. Nice but only 200m. Try playing LITZ using the home rom cheat many times. Absolute best I can do is 270m. I don't get it. Only thing I can think of is my flippers feel a bit JJPish- sluggish and a bit weak. They have always been that way. I have the right coils (155411), rebuilt flippers, and new flipper boards. Should I try replacing the coils? They look to be replaced at one point but don't remember if I did that. Any tips for snappier flippers?
The coils are seldom the problem, they either work or not.
4 weeks later
2 weeks later
Quoted from horseflesh:This was one of the first times I used my Hakko 808... it made desoldering headers stupid easy! What a cool tool. [quoted image]
Hakko is da shiiit
Have been using their products for decades and never looked back, money well spent in this hobby.
1 month later
2 weeks later
Quoted from misterman:My TZ recently has not been sensing the powerball in the trough, therefore not triggering powerball mode when the ball is served to the shooter lane. What is the usual cause of this and some tests or things to look for. Starting to get annoyed with playing with the challenge of the powerball but not getting the extra points out of it. Thanks.
There is a lot of vibration going on in the ball trough and sometimes all that is needed is to re-adjust the sensor since it has moved out of place.
When adjusting, do so against the power ball since it is slightly larger than the steel balls.
If you adjust it so it nearly touches the steel ball it will get nocked out of place by the power ball.
Instead adjust it so you can just get a piece of paper between the sensor and the power ball and then tighten it down hard. If the screw hole in the wood is starting to give way, put a piece of a toothpick in the hole for the screw to grab and you will be all good.
2 months later
Quoted from PinballHaven:Hey gang, I have a right lower flipper coil that needs replacement. Seems to be expanded in the sleeve and constricting the motion. Replacing sleeve was a chore (very tight) and did not solve the problem. Here’s what I see current wiring…….which doesn’t seem to match the manual? Thoughts on this? Just match what was there is my instinct, but I don’t want to just ruin another coil with somebody else’s bad wiring. Will also note that my left lower coil is a stronger than recommended one, so not super sure what all is going on here. Thanks in advance-
[quoted image]
Isn´t that coil sleeve inserted the wrong way?
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