Twilight Zone
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Good evening,
In preparation for my upcoming TZ, I'd like to upgrade the ROM to 9.4h. I have the programmer, however I would welcome the reference of the ROM chip to order, along with the ROM binary and it's reference.
With regards to ROM code, I found a ZIP file on VPForums, however it contains multiple files: tzu14_l2.bin, tzu15_l2.bin, tzu18_l2.bin and tz_94h.rom. I'm assuming that U14, U15 and U18 are other ROM chips, but not sure what they are needed for. And my understanding is that U6 should actually be the ROM code.
Could someone please confirm ?
Thanks and regards
Happy new owner of a very nice TZ, fully packed with mods, pinsound, shaker, new decals, topper, etc...
So anyway, I just wanted to inquire on two points I'm rather curious about:
- how does the game detect the powerball is in play. It seems to be able to detect at multiple locations
- one point which bothers me is that you don't really start from scratch each game, since the powerball can be at different location (either in the gumball or in the trough). Is there any way to work around that behavior (can't see how, but you never know)
Regards
Quoted from SLAMT1LT:Ha, fixed that issue in my new version of TZ. I now have the PB reload back into the gumball machine when it drains. Not a great idea to keep it out. Makes getting PB mania much more rewarding. I also added 2 extra Powerballs to the game, that only appear during Powerball Mania. Yes, 3 Powerballs in play. Hey, it's Twilight Zone - expect the unexpected.
TZ is the best pin of all time and new code makes it even better....only in the digital world of pinball though, where the game is expanding far beyond the limitations of its real-world counterpart.
Took me a few secs to connect the dots, then I read your pseudo and it clicks 
So when can we expect these new FP tables, hmmm 
Good evening,
The 'diverter' of the upper ramp on my TZ, which allows to block the ball or to allow its passage towards the mini playfield is having issies. It remains locked in the closed position. When the pinball tries to trigger it, a buzz is heard but nothing is triggered.
Obviously when I check the mechanism I don't see anything abnormal. The plunger slides well, I redid the welds (just in case), and when I close it works fine again ... Until the next time
Before I advance in my debug (I feel that I am going to buy probes for my oscilloscope to be installed permanently ...), someone would have an idea?
Thank you
Quoted from DuffysArcade:Ashram56 I had the exact same problem for a while. The issue for me was that the plunger was not far enough into the coil sleeve at the start of the stroke for the coil to "grab" the plunger magnetically and pull it down. If I moved the diverter just a bit by hand while the coil fired, it would immediately work fine and pull down the plunger.
I fixed it by adding some washers to the activating rod so that the plunger was a bit further into the coil at the relaxed neutral position. (Maybe only 2-3mm). After that mine has worked successfully for the past 3 years.
Sounds indeed very similar. I can't see any mechanical issue, sleeve is cleaned. I can push by hand easily from the top, so the plunger is not blocked.
Would be interesting to see how you added washers. Attached a picture of the end of the plunger, problem is that I don't quite get where to add washer so the plunger would be slightly more inserted, since I don't have any axis for the washer to be reliably secured (as when the plunger will move down, the washers will get loose) ?
20210607_081126 (resized).jpgQuoted from DuffysArcade:I can take a picture when I get home from work...but here is where I inserted the washer(s). Between the plunger and the metal bracket. It had the result of keeping the plunger a bit further down at it's relaxed state.
[quoted image]
That's what I assumed. Just wondering the inner diameter of the washer, has to be small to fit the small "pole" connected to the plunger
Quoted from in2kiss:I bought one of these last year when I gave up on my always acting up original. It took a day or so of adjusting the sensor to the ball in the trough but once I got it dialed in, it works great. Highly recommended.
New to TZ club, so I must admit I lack the context of this discussion... Would you mind elaborating? Seems some boards are going bad after a whole, and the replacement boards are hard to get?
Regards
Quoted from Manny65:We have been discussing Switch 26 which is the trough proximity sensor, that has 2 small boards to detect whether the next ball going into the shooter lane was the power ball - the smaller board had an inductor on it and was placed close to the trough while the main sensing circuit board, that the inductor connected to, was more out of the way. B/W improved the proximity sensor switch throughout the 90's with it being used in various machines however TZ was (possibly??) the first and while it worked there were various issues. Having no micro adjustment on the board to calibrate the sensor meant getting the inductor close enough to reliably sense the ball without it being damaged or crushed by the ball, the connectors had to withstand a lot of vibrations due to its location between the trough and 2 shooter lanes, the board senses frequency changes in the inductor but this can be affected by interference by the near by coils.
Most after market replacement boards (for all boards) look to address any of the short comings in the original design, some will use the latest components while others will balance this with keeping the look of the board the same as the original. And also remember that some electrical components simply weren't designed to run for 30 years. So to your point about boards going bad, yes boards do die however in most cases particularly on the larger more expensive boards the failed components can simply be replaced - for example the high voltage section of the DMD controller board and the capacitors on the power driver board; although sometimes it can be easier to replace a board especially with the smaller less expensive boards (such as the TZ trough proximity sensor to make use of some design improvements) or for example major battery damage on the CPU board. Replacements for the vast majority of boards are available, although the people that make them can vary from time to time. Some people will carry spare boards, such that they can keep the game running while the failed board is repaired however carrying spares for everything is expensive - it really depends upon how many machines you have and whether they are common components across them (I've got a bunch of spare boards and haven't used one yet ... touch wood).
Hope this helps
Thanks for the detailed explanation. I was reading the various exchanges on this and assumed that this particular board was more prone to failure than others, hence my question.
Regards
Quoted from awesome1:Love the low profile switches! A little bit of work to install, but well worth it!
[quoted image][quoted image]
Nice indeed, where did you get them?
Quoted from monkeyboypaul:You need the GI version of the OCD board if you want to retain your GI dimming effects with LEDs.
In my opinion, either leave it incandescent and enjoy the original light show, or use LEDs with a GI OCD board and see something very very similar to it. Anything middle ground (i.e. LEDs only) is a poor compromise.
Top-Tip: Buy NON-anti-ghosting LEDs for best effect with an OCD board.
Ah I'm interested into knowing more. I was wondering which pinball machine had dimming effects on GI, and since my TZ came installed with LED, can't really figure it out. Can you capture a video of GI dimming effects in TZ ? (I have an Afterglow GI, but cabling is a pain so before undergoing this some video would be welcome).
And on a sidenote, I would welcome a list of pinball machines with actually GI dimming effect. I know TOTAN has it for ex (I've seen a video), what about Indiana Jones (WPC) ?
Regards
Quoted from monkeyboypaul:Try this video with incandescent bulbs:
Quick scan through shows GI dims roughly at:
4:04 for MB start.
4:15 for Jackpot.
8:30 for Powerball callout.
14:10 for Power field.
Wow, I had not realized how much I was missing. To me GI sounded like On all the time (which it is without GI OCD). Thanks for the pointer
Quoted from noitbe1:I don't know if you've seen this one already:
https://www.ecflipp.fr/fr/pedretti-special/4379-topper-twilight-zone.html
it's a french website but currently out of stock. It seems like it has been released not so long ago.
Ah, that's the one I have on my TZ.
It's a 3D printed "robot", with a motor behind for the rotating antenna (which makes a lot of noise by the way, fortunately there's a switch), and it has "blinking" stars
Just a question: besides Ingo, there is no alternative clock board of good quality, am i right ?
Regards
Quoted from Devo10:I agree that It looks better without. I left mine off when I replaced the ramp. I’ve never had a ball get stuck due to the missing plastic.
Turns out that with a Pinvision mod, it actually blocks the view as well. I'll try without it and see if I get stuck balls here
Quoted from Manny65:The service outlet (called the Utility Outlet is the schematics below) sits in front of the machine's main power fuse, so powering the mods from the outlet is only dependent upon the rating of the circuit breaker in your house and what is being powered off it (including the pinball machine itself). I'm assuming the interactive backboard comes with it's own power supply, so effectively it'd be like putting a double adapter in a wall socket and powering multiple devices from the one power point.
[quoted image]
Exactly. No chance of blowing anything inside the machine, you can go ahead without any concern.
I wish I actually had the power outlet (export machines did not have it), currently the pinvision mod is powered externally
Regards
I need to disassemble my mini playfield to install low profile switches, and I've heard it's a rather complicated process (at least to reassemble)
Anyone would have pointers ? Ideally videos, better to get a sense of what is needed...
Cheers
Quoted from Scotty_K:This is CRITICAL!! There are two connectors that can be mixed up; if you mismatch them, you'll blow out your optos.
Take it from someone who knows...
Ah crap, I did not mark them.... Ouch.... Hopefully there is a color code on them.
Which ones can be swapped, can I identify them?
Quoted from Green-Machine:This
[quoted image]
Many thanks
Unfortunately they don't have any schematics on their website, i'll contact them
Alternatively, since only one led is flashing, I'm assuming it's just the LED (as my understanding is that there are two GI channels driving these leds), but need to identify the LED part number, any clue ? Seems it's the same as the one used in Pindora clock replacement
Quoted from jdlang11:This is from the operators manual. You can also download the manual. Hope this helps.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Thanks
I paid extra attention, and I did not fry anything
Just finished installing stumblor lollypop for bumpers on my Twilight Zone
I kept the inserts to reflect gameplay status, and I have installed colored leds in the three bumpers to reflect the original bumper cover
Installation required a vertical holder to mount the board, see picture (space is TIGHT under a TZ playfield)
20220520_193155 (resized).jpgFinal presentation of my TZ before I send it over to it's new owner. Took me some time to install all mods, of course at the last minute. I was not planning to sell it, but I got an interesting offer, so...
What do we have in this machine:
- Pinvision (interactive screen on the back, replacing the original backboard)
- PIN2DMD
- Mini playfield with low profile switches and aluminium cliffy on the edge
- WS2812 ledring bumper, controlled by a specific control board below the playfield which reacts to bumper triggers (stumblor mod), configurable over wifi
- Custom apron (from Italy), with adressable led below on a custom 3D printed support, for nice lighting effects, also controlled by Stumblor lolly board
- Spiral ramp
Toys:
- Robby
- Small scale car
- Plasma disc
- Rocket
- Piano mod
- Camera and sign mod
Inside the machine:
- Afterglow (for led control)
- Pinsound + shaker + speakers
All in all, quite happy with how it turned out
And of course.... Something broke....
Where are the power ball detectors located? The power all is not detected anymore'... Except from the tunnel from the left...
Quoted from shepP:Where did you get those inside cabinet art blades? I love how they match the playfield!
I must admit... No idea. They were installed when I originally bought my TZ
Quoted from LTG:Tiny eddy sensor sticking up at end of the ball trough. Switch #26 if you want to check in test.
LTG : )
Thanks, found it. I reseated the connectors, all good now (might take the opportunity to rewire them with new connectors)
Sigh...
I just dropped the TZ at the buyer place, all was working fine, thoroughly tested for two hours.
But... On the way back home, I receive a phone call, all solenoids do not work anymore.... Even in test mode, there's nothing working.
In principle, given that the trade is now complete, I could just walk away, but it's not very cool and not in my nature. So I'm trying to help him debug, which is really not easy given that he's about 2h drive away, and he does not have any electronic skill...
So anyway, some questions:
-on my TZ, there is no safety lock on the door, all power is always on even with the door open. At least I could trigger the auto plunger without pushing the button There's just one switch. Am I right in assuming there is no safety return wire next to the backbox?
- the only logical explanation for simultaneous solenoid failure would be the high voltage missing. Is it a single voltage for all solenoids, and is there a master fuse controlling it? Is it driven by a single rectifier, or multiple rectifiers?
Any other suggestion?
Thanks
Quoted from LTG:F112 on the driver board. Pull and check with a meter.
LTG : )
Thanks, I just figured that one out by reading the schematics
Believe it or not, he does not have a multimeter.... Oh well
And... The story goes on.
Fuse replaced, game is working. But burns F112 again, when reaching powerball mania stage.
Otherwise before that point, works fine...
Quoted from LTG:Something shifted in the move. I'd start by looking at coil lugs too close to metal.
Then crap behind the board.
LTG : )
Also found these two leads:
https://www.pinballinfo.com/community/threads/twilight-zone-fuse-issues.40995/?amp=1
And
https://groups.google.com/g/rec.games.pinball/c/0GAY2tUWVnA
Is 10A really recommended on TZ (see first link)?
Asking for a friend: the regulator powering his spiral mod is dead, see pictures of the mod below
It looks like the electronic board is actually a voltage regulator, AMS1117, but given that this particular IC can be configured for multiple voltage output, it's hard to infer from the PBC itself what are the specs. I found on Bangood similarly looking module, rated for 3.3V
As for the motor, unfortunately again, you can find multiple references of the motor with various voltage.
Anyone would know therefore who is the author of this mod, and what voltage level the motor is rated at ?
pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngNo marking under the PCB
The regulator is an AMS1117. Looking at the datasheet, it seems to have multiple voltage output options
I could ask to desolder the resistor and measure their value (since I assume it's a determined resistor combination which defines the output value), but not sure my friend is equipped for SMT components like these
Quoted from Ashram56:No marking under the PCB
The regulator is an AMS1117. Looking at the datasheet, it seems to have multiple voltage output options
I could ask to desolder the resistor and measure their value (since I assume it's a determined resistor combination which defines the output value), but not sure my friend is equipped for SMT components like these
Here's a close up picture. I would have thought the last digit (XJS80) would allow me to identify which part it is, but no dice
(edit) found it, the 5.0 is actually the voltage level, so it's a 5v regulator
received_835019741217962 (resized).jpeg
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Renton, WA