(Topic ID: 63352)

Twilight Zone Owner's club

By Caucasian2Step

10 years ago


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Topic index (key posts)

8 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #5897 Updated 9.4H manual with corrections from Coyote Posted by Coyote (5 years ago)

Post #8716 Have your picture taken in the translight Posted by Neal_W (3 years ago)

Post #10381 Switching to stereo sound. Posted by hawknole (2 years ago)

Post #11803 How to Add 3rd Magnet. Posted by mbaumle (2 years ago)

Post #11810 Third Magnet Parts List Posted by mbaumle (2 years ago)

Post #13048 Board replacement options. Posted by DumbAss (1 year ago)

Post #14049 Flipper cabinet opto board data Posted by DumbAss (10 months ago)

Post #14166 More key board data Posted by DumbAss (9 months ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#7040 4 years ago

I'm experiencing a weird bug lately. During some games, the Power "Hahaha" sound starts playing even when random switches not tied to The Power are hit. I first noticed this after a BTP multiball mode: Even after the mode was over, the "Haha" played every time the Right Flipper was hit. This happened again today. I am using the 9.4 ROM and have since I got this game in 2006, but I have not noticed this before. Is it a known bug, or something more sinister?

Thanks. I tried searching but might have been using the wrong keywords.

#7042 4 years ago
Quoted from monkeyboypaul:

Check your batteries!

I mounted them remotely. Is corrosion the reason for your concern?

I rebooted and got a switch error for "Power Payoff 2" at 65. Doing manual checks, I noted that the switch at 66 (Middle R 5 Million) when tested was activating both "Power Payoff 2" AND "Middle R 5 Million.

So I turned off and unplugged the machine a few minutes. When I rebooted there was no more error.

Has anyone else ever experienced this? Again, the trigger seemed to be the Power multiball that starts when you reload the Powerball. There is so much going on there (especially when you have the playfield AND flippers going) that i was almost like it broke the game's brain...

#7044 4 years ago
Quoted from 2pupPinz:

Your leaf switch may need adjusting/cleaned. If there is only very little space to close, vibrations could be triggering it. With the power off, find the leaf switch from underneath and bend them apart a little bit. The two bits of metal should be close about 1/16 of an inch, but not too close. I had something similar on my NGG.

Copy that. Thanks!

#7056 4 years ago
Quoted from monkeyboypaul:

Yes, that was my initial thought.

Thanks. Honestly, I can't rule out some previous acid damage any time something like this happens. You clean that stuff up, swap components, etc, but in the back of your mind it's like cancer. You're wondering "what if it comes back???"

1 week later
#7083 4 years ago

Question: I have one of those translights where the bulbs in the cabinet burned some time in the past (before I got it), leaving the back of the translight itself with that nice brown ashtray color. The front looks fine, but I'm wondering: can the stain on the back be cleaned at all, and if so, how? Is it even worth it to bother?

Thanks!

#7085 4 years ago
Quoted from mrf_pa:

Be very careful, I made the mistake once of cleaning a translight using just some warm water applied to a soft rag, 10 seconds of barely touching the back of the translight and there was more white paint on the rag than the translight. A very costly error. If it looks OK from the front, you may want to consider just leaving it alone.

I suspected as much. Best to leave well enough alone. Thanks!

#7092 4 years ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

So I’m thrilled to share that I’m joining the TZ club tomorrow. After years of admiring this legendary pin from afar (I’ve actually only played this pin maybe 6-8 times total in my life), I found a beautiful original example to trade for. I’m giving up a beautiful MB plus cash for this very clean TZ with color DMD. I love MB. I hope to own it again someday. But the opportunity to own a very nice TZ is too compelling to pass up. The theme, the many shots, the deep code. I did my research before taking the dive. I am thrilled to become a TZ owner. My wife and I have owned other Pat L titles - CSI, Ripley’s, Dialed In, Shrek. We love the way he packs shots into a playfield. He likes chaos, it seems, with shots from multiple flippers and angles. I tested this particular TZ and it plays great. Good, strong flippers and smooth shots. Cabinet isn’t faded yet. I’ve picked out a couple mods and decals, but I will try not to go overboard. They offer SO many amazing mods for this pin, it would be easy to get carried away.
We will pick up our new TZ on Monday and bring her home. Can’t wait. I haven’t even begun to scratch the surface of this amazing, benchmark pin. I understand Lawlor was given a very wide latitude to make this game as amazing as he wanted after the incredible success of TAF. I wonder if pinball reached a zenith of sorts in 1993 and if any machine will approach TZ in terms of complexity and grandiosity in the future. Can’t wait to open the door...

Congratulations! TZ has been my one and only pin for over a decade now. I am considering adding another soon, but I will never get rid of my first love. If you love the game and the theme it is hard to think of a better pin for the home. Enjoy!

#7112 4 years ago

Here's an irritating issue I've had for awhile: When a ball gets sent from the ball trough outhole kicker to the shooter, the ball (more often than not) strikes the little post and bounces back into the trough instead of going to the shooter. This happens sometimes 3-4 times before it finally gets to where it needs to go. Is this a leveling issue (the table seems level), something screwy with the kicker/trough itself, or just another quirk of this game? Looking for some ideas on where to start.

Thanks in advance!

#7114 4 years ago
Quoted from Mneubey:

Could your wire gate that keeps it from rolling back into the trough be broken? Ive had that happen a few times

Hmm. What is this wire gate you speak of? A cursory examination of my trough does not show one. Perhaps this is the issue...

Pic below. I also scanned Marco real quick: am I possibly missing this part, or another one?

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/12-6542

IMG_8660 (resized).JPGIMG_8660 (resized).JPG

#7118 4 years ago
Quoted from Mneubey:

Actually, sorry .. After rereading, it may not be ur issue. The gate just keeps it from falling back out of the trough when its kicked into the trough after a drain. Worth taking off the apron to see if anytging else could be adjusted though

I suppose so. The ball basically is striking the white rubber in the pic and going right back into the trough, then rinsing and repeating until it finds the correct angle. Some sort of gate WOULD make sense but I don't see a spot for one. Guess I'll go through the adventure of removing the apron and seeing what might be loose or off-kilter. Thanks for the help!

#7122 4 years ago
Quoted from JWJr:

Try removing that rubber.

I've considered that. I am also wondering if using black rubber there might accomplish the same thing with less bounce back.

#7124 4 years ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

It is a common issue on TZ that the ball guide sometimes needs to be bent a little like shown above to resolve kickout issues. (It has been documented many times in this tread.)

Thanks. I tried this and indeed it seems to work! I did try and do a search of the thread earlier, but it is possible I was using the wrong keywords.

2 weeks later
#7172 4 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Open the coon door, and HOLD DOWN the ESCAPE button. Keep holding.. keep holding.. there you go.

Does that erase the default developer scores as well? Does it set all scores to zero?

#7173 4 years ago
Quoted from Adipocere:

Does that erase the default developer scores as well, effectively setting all scores to zero?

#7175 4 years ago
Quoted from BenB:

I’d also like to know the answer to that.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/how-do-you-lower-default-high-scores

I found this thread showing how to manually lower each of the defaults but haven't had a chance to try it yet.

#7177 4 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

No. In normal, unhacked WPC firmware, it is impossible to do this.
Keep in mind, these are *commercial* machines, meant to draw in money. If all the high scores could be reset to '0', it would seriously mess up the freeplay percentage when bookeepings or highscores were erased. Therefore, this 'feature' was never implemented.

Fair enough. And indeed, holding Escape did not do this.

What DID work was to manually set the scores in the menu (link provided again below). I set the GC and top 4 scores down really low, like 10-6 million each. My wife and I then proceeded to play several rounds of absolutely WRETCHED pinball. The good news is, I'm the new Grand Champion with a blistering score of 132 million.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/how-do-you-lower-default-high-scores

#7182 4 years ago

I have two technical questions that I can not find the right answer for that I would like to pose:

1. My Gumball machine does not empty when I hit the "Empty Balls" setting on Tests. The machine works fine during play and I am not seeing any switch errors. Ideas?

2. I need to replace two of the connectors on the main board for J206/J208. These appear to be 9-pin .100 connectors. Are these the correct parts that I need to order?

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5792-12116-09

And if so, how do they work? Do you just strip the existing wires and plug them in? They do not seem to be the crimping type that you see. If not these, would someone recommend a different method?

Thanks, as always

#7184 4 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

In Gumball test, when you select 'Empty', does it empty? It should. (Assuming the other tests work too..)

It does not. Its weird that the tests don't work, but it works just fine in game.

#7187 4 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Does your game have the high-voltage interlock? Try closing the coin door as the test is running.

That doesn't work, and yes, based on past times when it did work, I do have that. The balls in the trough do get popped out during "Empty Balls" but the gumball machine just sits there.

#7189 4 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Ah - you may either be on a version BEFORE 9.4H (possibly 9.2, I do not have my notes with me), OR, a hacked version of 9.4H?

It's 9.4 CH. That is the same ROM that has been in it since I got the machine in early 2006. Now let me clarify: this has not ALWAYS been a problem. The empty balls thing used to work reliably. Lately it has not. I just find it odd that I'm not either getting a switch error, or seeing similar problems during gameplay.

Also, thank you for the advice on the connectors. I am going to try using molex crimps, since that will be cheaper than tracking down a IDC insertion tool (Marco is OOS and they are $35 everywhere else...). First time trying this out but I've put it off far too long.

#7192 4 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Likely your flipper optos need to be cleaned. Check in switch test and see what the flipper optos (NOT 'EOS') report.

True, but Ted (y'know, the programmer?) said that 'CH' had some issues in the code - the person hacking it made some issues. Since we ruled out everything else, and the only OTHER person that had an issue with the Gumball Machine not spinning the motor was ALSO running CH, it's logical to wipe that off and rule it out as a factor. Since going from 9.4CH to 9.4H will not wipe memory, I would also do a factory reset.

Interesting. And yeah, I know Estes wasn't happy about the hack (that's apparently why we never got 9.5...). I guess it wouldn't hurt to grab a 9.4 H and do a reset. That might also explain the bizarre Power Payoff glitch that keeps happening every time I get Powerball multiball...

2 months later
#7382 4 years ago

When I boot up TZ lately, the game always auto-launches a ball around the orbit as is if it were trying to load the gumball machine. The ball then rolls around the orbit and into the center drain and everything goes on as normal. There is no credit dot (though I have been chasing down a Power Payoff (65) dot that seems to come and go at will) or other error showing. The correct amount of balls are installed. Any thoughts?

#7386 4 years ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

I don't have experience with that, but it sounds like it is incorrectly sensing a 4th ball in the trough (switch 25), and when it kicks a ball in to the auto-shooter, it then senses the switch for ball 3 (switch 17) not activated so it knows there are then 2 balls in the trough, and returns it to the trough. Is switch 25 working reliably in the switch test?
Switch 65 is the two targets next to the piano, wired in parallel. Are both working OK in the switch test and neither bent where there is no gap?
[quoted image]

I don't think it is related to the switches themselves. I suspect it may be related to some corrosion damage on the circuit board I have been hounding down, but I am trying to eliminate the simple before cutting out and socketing a chip or two (since my circuit board skills are shaky at best). I think the Right Trough switch is in the same line as the Power Payoff if I am not mistaken (according to the switch matrix, they are both on J205-6, U19-11), so the two may be related. Honestly, I'm kind of just guessing. Everything is leaning towards replacing U18/U19, but I wanted to look for horses before zebras.

4 weeks later
#7463 4 years ago

LED question: should I be using actual red LEDs under the red inserts? I’ve tried both warm and cool white LEDs but both just give a sort of washed out look that doesn’t do the inserts justice. Thoughts?

#7468 4 years ago

Thank you all for the LED info! I’ll try out some of the suggested matches and let you know what I think.

#7470 4 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Keep in mind, guys..
There are two different colors of red inserts in the game. You'll lose this small color change by using colored LEDs.

So there's the door red, and then a different red for the outlanes and Extra Ball?

1 month later
#7673 4 years ago
Quoted from spblat:

It’s really grown on me. I was amazed to learn that...

...AND that the original DCS music could be experienced with pinsound. I’ve been playing it for a month now and while I miss the original jackpot music a bit, I think the original DCS score is absolutely brilliant. The mix of original low res callouts and amazing new stereo music is a bit jarring, and there are a range of (correctible) timing issues, but I think the good far outweighs the bad.

I can not imagine this game without the original JACKPOT sound though. I feel that would be a huge deal breaker.

2 months later
#7997 4 years ago

After a lot of stressing and misdiagnosis about my WPC board (which had some minor battery damage), I finally decided to just buy a Rottendog board and put it in so I could get back to enjoying the game. I am here to say that I should have done this 6 months (and a lot of spare parts orders) ago. The game works great now, no errors or odd behavior, plus I can always go back and tinker with the original board once I get more confident in my soldering skills. It's good to have TZ back among the living again!

#8030 4 years ago

Question regarding Color DMD: Does anyone have video of the LCD animations with "smoothing" turned on? I've seen a few CDMDs in the wild (and on the web site) but they always seem to just be dots. I did a search here, in the DMD thread, and in the "wild" but have not yet found anything.

Thanks.

#8060 4 years ago
Quoted from Scotty_K:

I have a ColorDMD on my TZ, and I currently have it on the smooth setting. For me, I think it looks great!
I'll take some pics and video when I get home from work today so that you can actually see it for real on TZ.
I think the real beauty of the ColorDMD LCD is that you can make the choice on how you would like it to look; dots, squares, or smooth. If you try one out for a while and don't like it, you can go back and change the setting to look like something else.

Would love to see this in action. Given the popularity of TZ I'm surprised images of it with smoothed Color DMD have been so hard to find!

I also agree that the smoothing can be a little... unsettling on some games. Still, its a nice option to have, especially since LCD can do the other settings as well.

#8062 4 years ago
Quoted from Scotty_K:

Sorry, but I was unable to do a video of this last night; I came home to find a broken toilet, and the wife, for some reason, said that needed to take priority.
I did get the toilet fixed, so I'll do the video this evening and put it up for you to see.

Awesome. Post a video of the toilet too!

No reason.

#8069 4 years ago
Quoted from Scotty_K:

OK I finally got around to doing the video of the ColorDMD with the high resolution / smoothing setting. It's about 10 minutes long.
I did some editing on it, trying to show as many different elements as I could. There is a Jackpot hit at around 8:05 or so.
I hope this helps.

Great video, thank you! I have to say, that smoothing actually looks pretty good on TZ.

#8078 4 years ago

I am thinking about changing the super bright white light in the lampshade over the mini-playfield for a colored LED. Any suggestions from others who have done the same? I was thinking blue or purple. That white light peeks out through the cracks in the side of the metal shade and is quite distracting.

2 weeks later
#8208 4 years ago
Quoted from Navystan:

Thanks. Looks like not an issue for me. I think a friend and I believe it's because this pin was fully restored including the cabinet and playfield. It seems that this cabinet may not have been an original TZ. Has anyone else experienced this? Someone restore your cabinet and used a different widebody cabinet?

If I may offer a alternate suggestion...

My TZ, like many others, had leg plates that were stripped out so that the bolts did not tighten all the way. I decided to replace the plates inside the cabinet. When I ordered the replacement brackets, I found that they only had 2 holes as opposed to the 3 that the originals had. It is possible to install these in such a way that the "top" hole in the front is actually the middle hole, thus making the pitch much more shallow and resulting in a need to jack the back legs way up. You would not notice this unless you pulled off the leg protector and realized there was an extra hole up top. If this is the case (and it could be if this was a restore), simply pull the bracket out, turn it upside down, and make it so that the holes on the bracket line up to the top 2 holes on the cabinet. Then reinstall the legs and you will have a more normal pitch. I have seen from looking at many pictures over the years that this is a very common problem with TZ due to the 3 hole options for legs.

Credit also to Coyote who basically pointed this out in an earlier post.

#8224 4 years ago

Had a fine day working on my beloved TZ today. Long overdue flipper assembly repair/ replace (kind of wish I'd taken pics of how bad they were, they were obviously original), new coil sleeves and stops, some new LEDs and rubbers, a good Novus cleaning, and finally, new mirror blades from Pinball Decals.

It was a rather satisfying day of work and the old girl looks and plays like a dream now!

4 weeks later
#8395 4 years ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

Yes, that's why I got the 9.4H. don't wanna get kicked out of the club!

Mine came with the "hacked" version when I bought it in 2006 and I've used it ever since. It's your machine. Do what you like.

#8404 4 years ago
Quoted from damadczar:

Does anyone have mirror blades installed in their TZ? Do you like it? I'm thinking about it b/c I'm restoring mine and have a set I could put in there. Thoughts?

I have mirror blades in mine and they make a huge difference. In my opinion they are a much better option than any of the blade art sets I have seen.

Some TZ pics here (these are the ones I ended up buying): http://www.pinballdecals.com/MirrorBladesPage.html

#8416 4 years ago
Quoted from Kwoody51:

I joined the club!!! Got this last weekend and sold my POTC less than 24 hours after picking this up.
Let me know what you think, looks pretty clean to me!
Spent this morning adding some minor mods to it.
-Added Gumballs
-Gumball light kit from Pinbits
-Reinforced targets for clock and slot machine
-Direct solder wires for switch 26 powerball sensor
-PETG protectors under plastic by flippers
-cleaning and waxing Playfield
-new ninja chrome balls
-will add Cliffy’s protectors soon
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
[quoted image]

Ninja Chrome balls don't deal with magnets very well from what I hear. And this game has a few magnets.

That aside, welcome to the club!

2 months later
#8777 3 years ago
Quoted from Navystan:

Well, looks like I will be selling/trading my restored Twilight Zone. But, I have it listed very high, essentially what I have in it. Actually, I have over $12K in it. Take a look and tell me what you think is fair market value. Of course, if I don't sell, I still have one the greatest pins ever. It's posted on Pinside.
Here's a link to many pictures and videos:
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0rJ0DiRHJujABv
Here's a link to a YouTube video of the pictures and videos all together:
When I first got the pin, I had issues like many others with the clock. With Coyote's and others here, I was able to get to the root of the issues and now I have a 100% working TZ. Clock has worked flawlessly since.
I have a very small collection and I need to make room for my TMNT LE coming soon.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
[quoted image][quoted image]

With that lineup, TZ would not be my first choice to sell. Ask yourself which pin will be easier/cheaper to reobtain later if I sell it? Maybe consult your Ouiji board...

#8782 3 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Houdini is “easy” to find now that there were a few in the marketplace. But what happens in a year or two when AP has moved on, and there are no more NIB, and the owners have realized what a killer game it is? None for sale. 600+ built vs thousands for other titles.

So would you sell your TZ before your Houdini if that were the choice before you?

1 month later
#8866 3 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

A little pricey, but that guy makes real nice mods. I have his piano mod (amazing quality and translucent piano roll so the lights are inserted in back and look great), and I bought his great Uncle Fester back when I had a TAF.

I finally received the clock target and piano mods that I ordered from him awhile back today and I have to say, the quality on both is pretty amazing. Given the quality of some mods I've seen I can say these really impressed me, even with the slow COVID-era shipping.

One downside is that they came with no instructions. I'm assuming the alligator clips that were in the package are for the clock mod? Anyone familiar with this?

3 months later
#9249 3 years ago
Quoted from AD72:

I moved and the only good space for my TZ is by the window. Does anyone know of a cover I could get?
[quoted image]

(Gasp) I think I can actually HEAR the side art fading just looking at the picture! Take immediate action, friend. Paint that window matte black.

1 month later
#9529 3 years ago

I've been problem free for awhile but 2020 isn't through with me yet. Today I booted up TZ and noticed a solenoid was popping repeatedly by the gumball. After some fiddling, I am getting the error message "ball popper opto stuck". On test games, the gumball machine is definitely acting funny. I'm not completely sure where this opto is. Any recommendations on what things to check and in what order?

Thanks. I am not having any other odd issues so hopefully this is an isolated issue...

#9531 3 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Gumball popper opto is the opto that's on the gumball popper - under the PF at the end of the small subway.

I found it. It was quite filthy so I gave it the q-tip treatment and reinstalled. Booted back up and... still popping.

#9533 3 years ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

You can check the switch status, in the service menu 'tests'. Is the switch your looking at showing working in the test? You can test that switch and others for normal operation.

In the gumball test the opto is showing open (x), but keeps flickering back and forth. Now it IS possible that I still have more cleaning to do (didn't use alcohol, just polished it with a bare Q-tip), or the opto itself could be failing. I will say, the glass did have that kind of nicotine coloration to it...

It appears to be an A-16908: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-16908

#9534 3 years ago
Quoted from Adipocere:

In the gumball test the opto is showing open (x), but keeps flickering back and forth. Now it IS possible that I still have more cleaning to do (didn't use alcohol, just polished it with a bare Q-tip), or the opto itself could be failing. I will say, the glass did have that kind of nicotine coloration to it...
It appears to be an A-16908: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-16908

Sigh.. ok, now I've got Switch 75 (Mini Playfield Top) AND 74 (Gumball Popper) activating on and off constantly. Starting to suspect a larger issue.

#9539 3 years ago
Quoted from Boof-Ed:

Check C1 on the 10 opto board. They can leak and do some weird things to the switch matrix.

Checked it. Opto board looks fine as far as I can tell. No leaks, corrosion, etc. Doesn't appear to have had any work done to it previously (and I've owned the machine for 14 years).

#9540 3 years ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

Those may (?) go back to the opto board mounted under the playfield. I had a cold solder joint on the connector header on that board that cause some strange opto issues.
If you tap on that board, do the switches trigger?

I'll try this, but I'm a little nervous about shocking myself. I don't usually work under the playfield with the power on.

2 months later
#10128 3 years ago
Quoted from PinballHaven:

Just joined the club! My bucket-list is minus one-
The 4th game is The Hobbit........torn on putting the JJP side by side or the Lawlor games next to each other-[quoted image]

I have Wonka and TZ side by side as well (of course, they're my only two games). I think they complement each other quite well.

3 weeks later
#10219 3 years ago
Quoted from Trooper11040:

Problem was solved. Initially I replaced all 3 LM339s but that didn’t work. Replaced the 10 channel opto board with a new one from pinball life and all is well.

I've been having this issue all of a sudden as well. I considered replacing the LM339s (they aren't socketed and I'm not proficient with board work), but I think I'm gonna do the same and buy a replacement board. Worked great for the acid damage I inherited on the main board.

#10229 3 years ago
Quoted from Trooper11040:

Removing the soldered LM339s wasn’t awful but changing out the entire board was definitely the easiest method

Well, now I feel a bit foolish. Upon further examination, a wire to the coil had come loose! How in the world I missed this last time I looked, I have no idea. The advice is true: start simple!

Thank God I can fix this with a little bit of solder instead of an $80 opto board replacement. This time at least.

2 months later
#10511 2 years ago

I'm sure this applies to many other machines of the era, but I have owned my TZ since early 2006 and every time I turn it on I breathe a sigh of relief when I don't hear that "bong bong bong bong" sound of an error message after the boot test. Anyone else do this?

4 weeks later
#10796 2 years ago
Quoted from jetmechinnc:

Just added a nice Twilight Zone to my small collection. Playfields, Ramps, and plastics are all perfect. I already ordered the CPR mirrored backglass and flipper fidelity speakers for some nice pop. Nice to have great Pat Lawlor games next to each other.
Only issue I have since bringing it home yesterday (didn’t happen when I looked at the game) is the left lower flipper sometimes doesn’t have the power to move the ball as it should. In switch test mode, it’s fine, all three other flippers work great. When I push on the flipper with the glass off, sometimes it struggles to move my hand. The other three flippers are all great.
Than at times it’s perfect.
Could this be a flipper opto board or flitronic board issue? Will have to check voltage, but if the upper left is fine, and the others are fine,wouldn’t that suggest it getting the proper volts? Will take out the fliptronic board out and check for cold solder joints. Maybe time to replace all the flipper boards??
When I talked to the seller, he said he had the same issue when he bought it. But after checking connections , all started working correctly. Hate intermittent issues. That’s why I’m leaning on cold solder joints?? Or am I wrong?
Thank you and glad to be in the club!!
[quoted image]

Great collection! My TZ is also beside my WW and the wife really wants a JP.

In answer to your question, I had the same issue with my left flipper and indeed it was a failing flipper opto. Easy to diagnose if you just swap the left and right ones. It's a pretty cheap and easy replacement part too. Good luck.

2 weeks later
#11010 2 years ago

-

4 months later
#11548 2 years ago
Quoted from jackd104:

Can the bulb in the extra ball button be replaced or need I buy a new button? I thought it could be replaced but in trying to take apart the button it’s not budging and doesn’t seem perhaps like it’s designed to take apart. Either than or the plastic insert that holds the switch is really stuck. Thx

Yeah it can be replaced. Mine gave me fits at first too.

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