I'm about halfway through my rebuild and ohhh boy this is a complicated one. I did think I tracked down my last broken switch in the mean time. Let's hope I can get the rest of it back together! If anyone has better teardown photos than mine, please point the way

Here's the spiral sign I have. I believe this was made by Tom Wible back in 2004. I bought it before I even knew what the original prototype sign looked like.

IMG_20170910_210357865 (resized).jpg

I have an alternative "collect spiral w/LIT" sign for sale - it's the Pinball Decals one:
http://www.pinballdecals.com/TwilightZoneSprialSignPage.html

$40 + ship

Putting my game back together (its close!! waiting on rails delivered tomorrow). I just noticed a connector I can't remember seeing at all before.

Near the harness just above the flipper area, there is a yellow with orange stripe pair of wires going into a SINGLE round pin connector. Molex style, almost looks like a barrel connector.. but the same wire going in and out into a single terminal. I can't remember ANYTHING in this game with a single terminal. Again, off the harness just above the flipper area, below the door panel. Any ideas?

Yellow-Orange is Column 3 in the lamp matrix.. but all the lamps on that column are on PCBs... except the Door 'Gum' light. I replaced the gum/ball lights with pin gizmo flashers nearly 20 years ago. Is this the connector for the old Gum lamp?

I do believe you are describing the GNDN connector.... ok not totally, it is splicing a wire together. All TZ's seem to have it, I don't know that anyone knows why.... other than heck, it's TZ after all.

Yup - that connector goes nowhere. Let it hang free!

Getting my TZ armor very soon - had it all powdercoated gloss black by Robert Stone in Marysville, OH. AMAZING WORK. I can not wait to get it on the game....

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/powder-coating-services-offered/page/3#post-3962553

all the black stuff on that page (of which that link is the latest post) is going on the game.

Also trying out the Pinduino on this game. Cracking it open to do all this stuff has inspired me to fix some of the more annoying things about the game. #1 on the list is that the left speaker was replaced with a totally crappy 3" Data East speaker, and I had completely forgotten about that.

I still have the PinSound remix to get back to... haven't had time to mess with that, as my 'music time' has been taken up with band rehearsal as we start work on a whole new set (all Queen, all the time). I've grabbed a couple of music stings from the actual TV show and I am really psyched to get that in there. The actual show music is a lot 'spookier' than the game. I am hoping I can (some day) figure out a way to incorporate the season 1 (very different, atmospheric) music with Season 2 (the them everybody knows and loves). But first we get the game in good shape!

Has anyone had success with the GLM switch kit for the mini pf with titan silicon rubbers?

Using these bands, they just seem too thick and it presses the brackets outwards to the point they actually conflict with the hangers the pf mounts too. Tony gave me some hints, but I just can't get the alignment to physically work... let alone be adjusted for the switches.

Anyone else been down this road?

I put Titan rubbers on mine. I just had to pull the slack on the rubber to the front, for the switches on the mini Playfield. Also might be the rubbers are too tight, maybe go up in size/length.

The issue I'm having is that the bracket sticks too far out over the edge of the PF making it basically impossible to get it inside the mounting brackets. Even scooting the bracket in as far as possible its still jammed up and makes adjusting the switch impossible to find a spot that works.

The thickness of the rubber, plus the star post, plus the bracket just made it hang out far.

Fingers crossed I sent my playfield out for mild restore and clear coat hoping to have an example worth to display with some of the awesome ones I seen on this post. I PRAY I can remember how to put this back together.......... And now with all of Rdoyle comments on black powder coat I am strongly thinking about borrowing his idea. That would look Great on this title. Starting to think Pinball might be similar to a car restore. A Never ending money drain. But fun.

Boy you hit the nail in the head there. Never-ending money drain. But fun!
Can I ask where you sent your playfield? I need to do that as well

I expect to get the powdercoat stuff pretty soon - i'd seen some great looking games in photos with that powdercoat, but saw a perfectly restored one with all black armor at another pinsider's house. STUNNING.

Thanks for the great clock board Ingo.
Best board and looks awesome!

I ended up going to Brian at HSA. Very nice person, his work is AMAZING, and he will touch up with real paint no stickers every inch of the playfield till it looks new including the clear coat. There are many great ones out there but I couldn't find a bad review on him and he was very helpful in discussing my needs. I did Try a few others (no names) but they did not seem interested in doing business or just plain scared the crap out of me to do business with them or my playfields. For me you don't have to be the cheapest in town as long as your work and reputation speaks for itself. I would Really love to see what your machine looks like after your done. And if you would share consider via PM, I was just wondering if the black setup was a 200$ problem or a 1000$ problem. lol Evaluating my budget......

Can't wait to see your pics, guys.... recently I sent my TZ, TAF and EatPM legs to be powder-coated black, but chose not to take the side-rails off for now....

Understood. I got what I thought was a very reasonable quote from a preferred restorer, plus he was able to take the job. I just don't have time to disassemble the play field just yet.

The powder coat was somewhere in the middle as far as cost - maybe $600 all said and done. I bought all new hardware and had it sent directly. If you buy raw (unfinished) pieces they are cheaper so that saved me some money. I could have saved about $200 had I just send the original hardware but I didn't have time to remove it all. and I had a really crappy coin door sitting around that needed a lot of help.

Check that thread I posted for how awesome that door looks now, it's almost unbelievable!

I'm in the process of installing Prof Pinball's (lyonsden) Pinduino which is UN-believably cool. I haven't had a ton Of time to do that either, I've been writing a lot of proposals lately. So I will either have a lot of time
Coming up soon if these don't get picked up.. or I will have a lot more cash to blow on game enhancements And no time to install them!

Pls share how the pinduino ends up going, was considering that to light the gumball machine.

On the average what does a professional clear coat run these days?

Mostly just curiosity as my PF is fine but maybe if I get the itch sometime.

Playing tonight at the end of game frustrsted I was randomly hitting the flipper buttons during the match sequence... all of the sudden a chime sounds and it scores a 5 million "flipper bonus"

What the heck? Did I stumble on an easter egg?

The Pinduino is awesome!

Seriously, let me know if you have any questions about it.

$400 for powder coating??

I got the legs, lockdown bar, rails, coin door, shooter housing done for $175 local, they look great and they're clear coated, maybe you could find someone local, sure seems high

No I'm including shipping ( between pbl and shipping out there and back) and a bunch of other stuff for other games, it was a totally fair cost

Wasn't during the match sequence, but during bonus countdown.
If your end-of-ball bonus awards you a replay, once the replay animation (slot machine) starts playing, hit both flipper buttons, and it gives you the 'Flipper Bonus' award (5 Mil), as well as the Replay award.

TZ Clock Board, problem with rainbow LEDS
Hi, I'm a longtime lurker, but I seldom post, I have an issue I'm hoping someone has some experience with. I just installed a new clock board of Ingo's, V1.9, with the rainbow color changing led's. When the led's are fading from one color to another they flicker a lot. It looks like when a color is barely on it flickers on and off. It's more obvious at lower brightness settings, it still happens at high brightness but the 'new' color is so bright it washes out the flicker from the led turning off.
Has anyone seen or dealt with this before? I have sent a message to Ingo but would like some ideas before I button it back up.

Thanks,
Jerry

LED's flickering makes me think power. I would start with re-seating the cables connecting to the clock board. Did you get any other LED's when you got the board (plain colors, or did you just get the rainbows?) would be handy if you could swap them out to see if the problem is just with the rainbow LED's themselves.

I just finished (well, couple plastics to go -- keep losing lock nuts!) putting mine back together and I had a fun "I have all these extra pieces" situation. Just need to trace my left side GI not working and rebuild the flippers and I'll finally be able to play it.
(Well, as soon as my diverter wire gets here. Brittle thing snapped )

I am wondering if anyone has a spare TZ Clock minute hand for sale?.
Some how mine snapped just proximal to the opto tab. The clock works fine.

Thanks

All new black legs!

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IMG_20170923_071421 (resized).jpg

Really nice!

Just installed black gloss powder coat on my guy:

IMG_2223 (resized).JPG

IMG_2224 (resized).JPG

IMG_2225 (resized).JPG

Yeah!

I did this because my chrome legs were becoming dirty/rusty pretty fast and I didn't want to deal with the hassle of constantly cleaning it over and over again anymore... next step would logically be side-rails and lockbar, but I don't know if I'm going that way yet....

BTW, I'm actually toying with the idea of turning my TZ into a B/W project... I think I got all the resources I need down here to make it happen (repro plastics, repro translite, repro cabinet decals, artist to take care of the PF...)... hmmm... what about the gumball, start buttons and the door jewels? And the skill shot???

Well, the downside is: will I tear apart a newly restored, completely functional, beautiful machine and wait months/years to complete the project?

But anyway, if anyone wants to start a similar project, lmk and maybe I can help!

When you say "b/w" do you mean black & white? I remember a thread on heee somewhere where a guy was doing that. The mock up looked amazing - don't know where that ended up

Exactly: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/black-and-white-tz-coming-soon#post-853088

If only I knew then (when I bought my TZ and restored it), what I know now, I certainly would have follow that path...

Flipped my first games on my tz rescue Friday night. Needs a lot of adjustments and leveling but it is playable!

Such a good feeling, isn't it?

Now if I could just figure out why the damn multiball is so buggy

Getting closer and closer to 100 percent. Need to get a clock board and still sort out these last few switches and the GI connector. Took it to a friend's place to call in some assistance on the final steps. I did order new springs for the plunger and the barrel spring out of the manual is too fat though

My tz came with an already included tv mod. The weird thing is that it only comes on when the machine is on and only when the machine has been played a few times.

I haven't ripped apart the mod to see how it's connected but I assume these tv mods are supposed to be on when the machine is on right?

Can you post a pic? There are a couple of these mods

Mine is always on when the game is on.

S1070019 (resized).JPG

Looks like I may have the clock situation under control
Now to see why Fast Lock isnt starting.

Had an interesting ball trap tonight. Knockerlover managed to air ball the ball into the triangle are between the ramps where the ball sat down on the red plastic underneath.

I've never seen the ball go down there, and from all my image searching I don't see any games with anything there to prevent it. You only have that metal vertical plate between the ramps. The plastic does have a hole at the edge, but I've not seen a game with anything filing or blocking the gap.

IMG_3846 (resized).JPG

Any suggestions?

I also have not seen any successful posts on where those other small clear plastics go (beyond the one on the shooter lane)

"Quit playin' with the clock!"

IMG_1402 (resized).JPGIMG_1404 (resized).JPGIMG_1403 (resized).JPGIMG_1406 (resized).JPG
It says something in green like ingenia or something when it starts.

Just lifted the pf and traced the cables.

Red/black Alligator clips as per the photo.

I assume the wiring for this is wrong some how?

IMG_1407 (resized).JPG

@flynnibus, that plastic should have a taller spacer in it neat the bottom (on the edge nearer the ramp entrances) to slope it up.

Balls that land in there shouldn't get stuck - they should roll up (back) to the gumball tumnel entrance.

Maybe the rabbit ears on koops TV mod need to be adjusted?

You may be right!

nah picture is fine.

I think I may have found the mod.

http://www.edcheung.com/album/album08/pinball/tz2.htm

It has the same boot screen!

pasted_image (resized).png

He mentioned the following

"Once installed connect the red and black alligator to the gumball machine control board under the playfield. There is a ceramic bypass capacitor near the voltage regulator that is a good location for the connection."

Which one is the gumball machine control board? I think mine is connected to # 17.

pasted_image (resized).png

That SHOULD be it but I forgot to double check on mine for you last night
I think I solved my lock problem. The two lock optos are fine but the actual physical bottom lock switch doesn't. So normal MB does count locks but fast lock does not.