I looked but no luck. I hate when I put something somewhere so I dont lose them and completely forget where that place is lol
To be Continued.....
I looked but no luck. I hate when I put something somewhere so I dont lose them and completely forget where that place is lol
To be Continued.....
Quoted from Seatmandan:I've re-decaled 2 games now with TZ being the second, and everything Chosen_s said is really accurate. I didn't however, do mine "wet" with rapid tac, I did them dry because when doing the entire cabinet, I didn't want to have to wait for one side to dry before doing the other side. If you chose to do them dry, a "plug" panel for the coin door helps tremendously when doing the front.
I used a Bosch rotary sander very very similar to the festool sander to remove all the old decals, this process using 60 grit sandpaper. I guess the most important thing when doing decals is patience and preparation. Like Chosen_S said with bondo on the cabinet- make sure the cabinet is perfectly smooth, free of grain lines and nicks. T Hose things will stand out on a mostly black decaled game. THe other thing that's important is use a tack rag to wipe down the cab just before applying the decals. Try to do the decaling in a low-dust environment if you can. Don't do them outside.
Here are some photos of mi re-decal job on my TZ.
Looks great! In what way does the coin door "plug" help when decaling a cabinet? Thanks!
Quoted from KornFreak28:Looks great! In what way does the coin door "plug" help when decaling a cabinet? Thanks!
It helps because it gives a consistent surface on which to apply the decal. With the decal being a single piece without the plug there it tends to want to veer off into the giant hole.
Quoted from merccat:It helps because it gives a consistent surface on which to apply the decal. With the decal being a single piece without the plug there it tends to want to veer off into the giant hole.
After re-decaling several arcade machines and now a few pinball machines, I have discovered that when doing the coin door area it is much much easier to apply the decal with the cabinet in its normal orientation, and the side decals are much easier when laid parallel to the floor.
Doing the coin door area in this way removes a lot of the problems of laying the decal on it with the coin door panel .
I decaled earth shaker with the coin door parallel to the floor, it took me about eight tries, even doing it wet to get it in the correct position, and I fought it wrinkling because of the coin door hole.
When I Decaled the coin door panel on TZ yesterday, it took me one try and about three minutes as opposed to the 30 minute ordeal with doing it the other way Decaled the coin door panel on TZ yesterday, it took me one try and about three minutes as opposed to the 30 minute ordeal with doing it the other way. No coin door plug needed, but others experience may differ.
I only do the wet method on small pieces, definitely dry method on big pieces
Quoted from Chosen_S:After re-decaling several arcade machines and now a few pinball machines, I have discovered that when doing the coin door area it is much much easier to apply the decal with the cabinet in its normal orientation, and the side decals are much easier when laid parallel to the floor.
Doing the coin door area in this way removes a lot of the problems of laying the decal on it with the coin door panel .
I decaled earth shaker with the coin door parallel to the floor, it took me about eight tries, even doing it wet to get it in the correct position, and I fought it wrinkling because of the coin door hole.
When I Decaled the coin door panel on TZ yesterday, it took me one try and about three minutes as opposed to the 30 minute ordeal with doing it the other way Decaled the coin door panel on TZ yesterday, it took me one try and about three minutes as opposed to the 30 minute ordeal with doing it the other way. No coin door plug needed, but others experience may differ.
I only do the wet method on small pieces, definitely dry method on big pieces
Thanks for the explanation! If it's not too much to ask, What do you use as a plug for the coin door hole?
Quoted from KornFreak28:Thanks for the explanation! If it's not too much to ask, What do you use as a plug for the coin door hole?
You'd need to make a template and create a piece of wood.
If you will pull the backing of the decal and cut 1/4 of the backing off, then place it on the front exactly where you want it, then pull the rest of the backing off, use a squeegee and the rest will fall in place without the need of the plug
Quoted from Chosen_S:You'd need to make a template and create a piece of wood.
If you will pull the backing of the decal and cut 1/4 of the backing off, then place it on the front exactly where you want it, then pull the rest of the backing off, use a squeegee and the rest will fall in place without the need of the plug
Got it. Thanks!
Quoted from KornFreak28:Got it. Thanks!
You're welcome, I apologize for not having pics of the process
Quoted from crwjumper:Maybe I'm misunderstanding, but when on IPDB it lists L-1, L-2 & P-3 sound ROMs.
Oh. Those are revisions. Like L-5 and 9.4h game versions. Just fixes for sounds. Nothing added, different.
Quoted from Coyote:Oh. Those are revisions. Like L-5 and 9.4h game versions. Just fixes for sounds. Nothing added, different.
Thanks Coyote.
So if I have 9.4h ROM I should automatically also have the newest sound rom on that chip?
Quoted from crwjumper:Thanks Coyote.
So if I have 9.4h ROM I should automatically also have the newest sound rom on that chip?
You can. It's recommended to have the latest, as volume pops, cracks, and other bugs are fixed. But you don't *HAVE* to. The game will run fine with 9.4h and a P- level audio ROM.
New TZ owner question here. I need to relocate my machine to a different room in the house. Due to fitment issues around the house, I have to remove the legs and set the machine upright. I will put a blanket on the floor and just slide the machine into the room. My question is: Do I have to remove the balls from the gumball machine? If so, how? Will the machine automatically load the balls back into the gumball machine upon start up? Thanks!
It's a good idea to remove the balls from the gumball machine, although not 100% absolutely necessary. I raise my playfield up all the time to work on stuff and only remove the balls in the trough when I do. The balls in the gumball machine will most likely just fall into the VUK area and the subway ramp that feeds it. Once you turn it back on, it'll refill the gumball machine.
That said, because you're moving the game around, I'd empty it. The easiest way to do that is to let the game do it for you. Go into test mode and find the gumball test selection. It'll bring up a screen that shows all the switches and sensors involved with the gumball operation. At the very top of all that will be the dialog are that shows you what test is being run. Hit the (+) button until that dialog reads "Empty Gumball Machine". Then, one by one, the balls will all come out of the slot machine. Catch 'em all, shut the game off, and you're ready to move it!
Quoted from KornFreak28:New TZ owner question here. I need to relocate my machine to a different room in the house. Due to fitment issues around the house, I have to remove the legs and set the machine upright. I will put a blanket on the floor and just slide the machine into the room. My question is: Do I have to remove the balls from the gumball machine? If so, how? Will the machine automatically load the balls back into the gumball machine upon start up? Thanks!
You should remove the balls from the ball trough anytime you raise the playfield and certainly if you are flipping the machine upright. Otherwise they will slam around the machine randomly when the playfield tips and could smash something (possibly even the playfield glass). You don't necessarily have to empty the gumball machine each time, but if you are really moving the machine around I would.
As to how, some roms have a setting under the Tests section that will empty all of the balls in the trough and the gumball machine. Otherwise, you can empty the trough easily by carefully flipping the lever mechanism under the apron. This will flip the balls into the shooter lane where you can grab them. You can then run the gumball machine test to empty it out one ball at a time.
When you are done, just put all the balls in the machine. The machine will run its startup routine and realize the gumball machine is empty. It will then automatically fire balls one by one until the gumball machine is full. Its pretty cool actually...
Good luck!
- Gblaz
Quoted from KornFreak28:remove the balls from the gumball machine
Test -> 15 -> empty -> [enter]
to empty the trough:
Test -> 4 -> 9 -> repeat
Quoted from gblaz:You should remove the balls from the ball trough anytime you raise the playfield and certainly if you are flipping the machine upright. Otherwise they will slam around the machine randomly when the playfield tips and could smash something (possibly even the playfield glass). You don't necessarily have to empty the gumball machine each time, but if you are really moving the machine around I would.
As to how, some roms have a setting under the Tests section that will empty all of the balls in the trough and the gumball machine. Otherwise, you can empty the trough easily by carefully flipping the lever mechanism under the apron. This will flip the balls into the shooter lane where you can grab them. You can then run the gumball machine test to empty it out one ball at a time.
Good luck!
- Gblaz
You SHOULD, but not everybody does. I stick a flipper rubber in the trough exit hole so the balls don't come out; if you put it in there vertically there's no chance they will move. you don't want to leave it like that obviously but it works for quick stuff
Thanks for the help guys! I love this club! I was just confused about the gumball machine but now I feel great knowing how to do this properly. It's a very heavy machine so wish me luck! Only the wife is helping me on this move
Quoted from KornFreak28:Thanks for the help guys! I love this club! I was just confused about the gumball machine but now I feel great knowing how to do this properly. It's a very heavy machine so wish me luck! Only the wife is helping me on this move
You can do it dude!
Use a piece of stuff cardboard and it will help you slide it
Quoted from Chosen_S:You can do it dude!
Use a piece of stuff cardboard and it will help you slide it
Thank you! Using both cardboard and a moving blanket
Quoted from KornFreak28:Thank you! Using both cardboard and a moving blanket
Awesome, lol, I meant Stiff cardboard.
Loading a game in a new friends van, I noticed he had lined the bottom with hardboard. Genius! It slid in super easily.
Hey all! [updated post - located the mod in question]
I have recently joined the club, made one previous post in here. Love TZ and just starting to go through to clean it up. Mainly just dirty with a few items that could use some adjustments and fixing but there quite a few mods on this pin and there is one that I could use help with.
There are two pair of wires that feed the 3D Camera mod (see pic for the very specific model of the mod, can't seem to locate who's it is) that is wired using a cat 5 cable (only 2 pair in use). 1 pair goes from the camera insert to the top light (looks purple, maybe it is a UV LED) in the mod but the other appears to go up into the back box to a z-connector to insert in-line with J4 on the 8-driver PCB. Using the schematics, as the silkscreen connector/pin numbering are different, I see that we're connected to pin#4 (Flasher#39 - GumBall mid(?)). The other wire just has an alligator clip on it but is of the same overall length so I assume that it clips to something close by. The main question here is what is the power requirement of the bottom LED(s) on this particular camera mod? The schematics show that the GB Flasher is powered by the +20V from J107-6 on the PWR DRV but I can't determine where the clip should be connected to, to get it's power.
I can't assume that the bottom light uses +20V. Can anyone speak to what the voltage wire should be connected to if they have the same mod with similar tap on their TZ.
Also, why would the camera mod's bottom LED(s) be wired to on of the GumBall flashers? (just curious)
Thanks
Quoted from merccat:Loading a game in a new friends van, I noticed he had lined the bottom with hardboard. Genius! It slid in super easily.
Not sure what "hardboard" is, but I used paneling and it worked perfect. The pin slides freely on it.
Quoted from dnaman:Hey all! [updated post - located the mod in question]
I have recently joined the club, made one previous post in here. Love TZ and just starting to go through to clean it up. Mainly just dirty with a few items that could use some adjustments and fixing but there quite a few mods on this pin and there is one that I could use help with.
There are two pair of wires that feed the 3D Camera mod (see pic for the very specific model of the mod, can't seem to locate who's it is) that is wired using a cat 5 cable (only 2 pair in use). 1 pair goes from the camera insert to the top light (looks purple, maybe it is a UV LED) in the mod but the other appears to go up into the back box to a z-connector to insert in-line with J4 on the 8-driver PCB. Using the schematics, as the silkscreen connector/pin numbering are different, I see that we're connected to pin#4 (Flasher#39 - GumBall mid(?)). The other wire just has an alligator clip on it but is of the same overall length so I assume that it clips to something close by. The main question here is what is the power requirement of the bottom LED(s) on this particular camera mod? The schematics show that the GB Flasher is powered by the +20V from J107-6 on the PWR DRV but I can't determine where the clip should be connected to, to get it's power.
I can't assume that the bottom light uses +20V. Can anyone speak to what the voltage wire should be connected to if they have the same mod with similar tap on their TZ.
Also, why would the camera mod's bottom LED(s) be wired to on of the GumBall flashers? (just curious)
Thanks
That camera mod blocks the upper left flipper view. I got rid of mine!
Quoted from AlexSMendes:That camera mod blocks the upper left flipper view. I got rid of mine!
Well that is one option haha! I would like to try to get it working for now but I do have to keep reminding my GF that there is a flipper 'up there'
Quoted from monkeyboypaul:I really miss owning TZ...
I am really enjoying TZ but I like Lawlor and love the theme. It is interesting to me how polarized people can be on TZ, let's just keep the haters out of here
I have recently added a PinSound to mine (4th pin to have a PS now, just love them!) and am just starting to add real RS call outs and content from the original series to one of the better existing sound libraries from their website (Chris' DCS). It is quite surprising that there hasn't been more traction on this front. A really fine tuned PS is, in my opinion, superior to a colour display. Although I do love those as well, I am not always looking at the screen. The audio however can really bring it to the next dimension, maybe even the 6th!. I put 60+ hours in on my BSD, ripping from the blu-ray and the experience is incredible even with the stock speakers. Moved on to Batman Forever to start the same; easily one of the worst (annoying) sound packages in pinball and it is finally starting to get enjoyable to play with the sound up.
I digress... back to TZ!!!!
If anyone else is working on new sounds, let me know.
I've been playing around with some custom audio. I'm re-recording all the speech tracks with my two kids to create a personalized edition. My 4 year old daughter as The Power is hilarious.
It's a little slow going for obvious reasons.
Voice actor Mark Silverman played a spot on Rod Sterling for Disney's Tower of Terror ride. I wonder if he would ever be willing to record high quality versions of the callouts. I'd pitch in for that.
Unfortunately there would likely be some sort of licensing requirements that would make it impossible.
Quoted from merccat:Voice actor Mark Silverman played a spot on Rod Sterling for Disney's Tower of Terror ride. I wonder if he would ever be willing to record high quality versions of the callouts. I'd pitch in for that.
Unfortunately there would likely be some sort of licensing requirements that would make it impossible.
Rod's voice has to be licensed separately from the game, and as Mark is the officially recognized voice for Rod by the Serling Estate, He would certainly need something in place legally. he's a Tier 1 Voice of Disney so ... yeah it would be expensive.
Ive been working on some updates lately too but ended up having a lot of actual jobs lately so I have to prioritize my voice for those. I should be dry in June though so maybe soon
So I moved TZ to another room in the house. All went really smooth. Removed all balls, set the game upright, used cardboard and moving blankets to slide it into the room, put the legs back on and started a game. Everything works great but now, the slot machine kickout will randomly kick some balls to the right flipper, some balls SDTM and some balls to the very tip of the right flipper!
Before moving it, the slot machine would ALWAYS kick it out to the right flipper. The move was from one room to the other and nothing hit or moved the slot scoop at all! I did a visual inspection on it and it all looks to be in place.
Since 50% of the balls do hit the right flipper and the other 50% don't, Is it safe to assume the scoop itself is not to blame here? Do you guys think the coil mechanism is causing this? Any help is much appreciated, as this has turned into a rather annoying issue
Yes, the game is perfectly leveled. Thanks!
Quoted from dnaman:If anyone else is working on new sounds, let me know.
Can you swap out music with Pinsound, or just call-outs? (Sorry, probably dumb question, but haven't ever thought about trying a pinsound). I would love TZ even more with some of the more atmospheric, minimalistic music from the shows.
Quoted from KornFreak28:So I moved TZ to another room in the house. All went really smooth. Removed all balls, set the game upright, used cardboard and moving blankets to slide it into the room, put the legs back on and started a game. Everything works great but now, the slot machine kickout will randomly kick some balls to the right flipper, some balls SDTM and some balls to the very tip of the right flipper!
Before moving it, the slot machine would ALWAYS kick it out to the right flipper. The move was from one room to the other and nothing hit or moved the slot scoop at all! I did a visual inspection on it and it all looks to be in place.
Since 50% of the balls do hit the right flipper and the other 50% don't, Is it safe to assume the scoop itself is not to blame here? Do you guys think the coil mechanism is causing this? Any help is much appreciated, as this has turned into a rather annoying issue
Yes, the game is perfectly leveled. Thanks!
Its probably not necessarily related to your move, but 90% of problems with the slot machine kickout are due to a broken weld. Its easy to remove the assembly to check (you can leave the switch attached). Just unscrew a few screws and the whole assembly can be removed to look at it. There is a switch riveted to the scoop - you can just leave that on and still remove the scoop enough to inspect it.
There is a weld on each side of the scoop. The factory welds are small and not strong enough for the abuse that scoop takes. One is probably broken. Now fixing it is another story... You can find someone to redo the welds for you or you can buy a pricey replacement scoop.
While you are in there you should also look at the target to the left of the scoop. Its probably bent back as well. You can buy a replacement that is built with the extra reinforcement this switch needs.
Good luck,
- Gblaz
Quoted from gblaz:Its probably not necessarily related to your move, but 90% of problems with the slot machine kickout are due to a broken weld. Its easy to remove the assembly to check (you can leave the switch attached). Just unscrew a few screws and the whole assembly can be removed to look at it. There is a switch riveted to the scoop - you can just leave that on and still remove the scoop enough to inspect it.
There is a weld on each side of the scoop. The factory welds are small and not strong enough for the abuse that scoop takes. One is probably broken. Now fixing it is another story... You can find someone to redo the welds for you or you can buy a pricey replacement scoop.
While you are in there you should also look at the target to the left of the scoop. Its probably bent back as well. You can buy a replacement that is built with the extra reinforcement this switch needs.
Good luck,
- Gblaz
Thanks! If I remove the scoop, Do i have to rivet the switch when it comes time to install it?
Quoted from canea:Can you swap out music with Pinsound, or just call-outs? (Sorry, probably dumb question, but haven't ever thought about trying a pinsound). I would love TZ even more with some of the more atmospheric, minimalistic music from the shows.
Eeeeeverything that makes a sound can be changed. Music, callouts, sound effects. I am working on a complete Doctor Who revamp which replaces all the callouts with modern episode quotes, and some of the sound fx as well
I've had my TZ for about 3 weeks now, I have yet to play a game on it, it's starting to get to me.
I'm waiting on powder coating and a few parts, I'm going to remove the gum ball machine and the mini pf and mod / update them.
I bought a new globe and yellow switch and the dazzler kit and chrome balls for the globe,
Has anyone done chrome balls for the globe?
I bought the glm v2 for the mini pf, but I don't know what mods to connect to the extra switches. Anyone have some ideas?
I'm also going to replace the under guard with something nice like a few guys did a few pages back.
Are there any MUST haves that I need to plan on before I finish off the cleaning/ modding??
Quoted from KornFreak28:Thanks! If I remove the scoop, Do i have to rivet the switch when it comes time to install it?
The switch for the slot scoop is held with small bolts, if that's what you are asking, so no rivets are necessary.
Quoted from nosro:The switch for the slot scoop is held with small bolts, if that's what you are asking, so no rivets are necessary.
Thanks! I'll inspect it tonight. Pretty weird it's doing this. Before relocating the machine, it would always kick the ball to the right flipper
Quoted from KornFreak28:Thanks! I'll inspect it tonight. Pretty weird it's doing this. Before relocating the machine, it would always kick the ball to the right flipper
You could try just loosening the playfield screws that hold the scoop and see if you can move it move the scoop slightly. I would think you can see any weld problems without removing the scoop from the machine.
Quoted from nosro:You could try just loosening the playfield screws that hold the scoop and see if you can move it move the scoop slightly. I would think you can see any weld problems without removing the scoop from the machine.
Great idea! I'll report back my findings. Thanks!
Quoted from dnaman:I am really enjoying TZ but I like Lawlor and love the theme. It is interesting to me how polarized people can be on TZ, let's just keep the haters out of here
I have recently added a PinSound to mine (4th pin to have a PS now, just love them!) and am just starting to add real RS call outs and content from the original series to one of the better existing sound libraries from their website (Chris' DCS). It is quite surprising that there hasn't been more traction on this front. A really fine tuned PS is, in my opinion, superior to a colour display. Although I do love those as well, I am not always looking at the screen. The audio however can really bring it to the next dimension, maybe even the 6th!. I put 60+ hours in on my BSD, ripping from the blu-ray and the experience is incredible even with the stock speakers. Moved on to Batman Forever to start the same; easily one of the worst (annoying) sound packages in pinball and it is finally starting to get enjoyable to play with the sound up.
I digress... back to TZ!!!!
If anyone else is working on new sounds, let me know.
I'm very interested in PS for my TZ as well, make sure you post your mix up to the forums
Wondering if anybody has the clock millions mod? What are your thoughts on it? Interested in buying one being sold by a store in Spain.
Also interested in the piano mod. Which one do you recommend? Does the clock have to be removed to install the piano? Thanks!
Quoted from arcadenerd925:I'm very interested in PS for my TZ as well, make sure you post your mix up to the forums
I was on the fence about pinsound. For the $350 bucks I had better stuff to spend it on. Pinsound is still a new idea. I recently just bought my TZ and it was already installed with a flipper fidelity kit. They had a corny Chris granner pre dcs sound mix but after a while it got old. So I went on the pinsound forum and download a mix someone else posted. And wow incredible. It just took TZ from a awesome game to a bad ass game. The sound is crystal clear, stereo sound, full adjustable. I thinking about getting one for my last action hero. With real ac/dc tracks
Quoted from cavalier88z24:I was on the fence about pinsound. For the $350 bucks I had better stuff to spend it on. Pinsound is still a new idea. I recently just bought my TZ and it was already installed with a flipper fidelity kit. They had a corny Chris granner pre dcs sound mix but after a while it got old. So I went on the pinsound forum and download a mix someone else posted. And wow incredible. It just took TZ from a awesome game to a bad ass game. The sound is crystal clear, stereo sound, full adjustable. I thinking about getting one for my last action hero. With real ac/dc tracks
Which mix are you referring to? There are 5 I think. Granner DCS mix, Original, Tim Kitzrow "remixed", Haunted House remix, and one other I can't think of right now
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Which mix are you referring to? There are 5 I think. Granner DCS mix, Original, Tim Kitzrow "remixed", Haunted House remix, and one other I can't think of right now
I think I've heard all of them by now (at least 4 different mixes I am pretty sure)... anyway, though I find some ideas pretty amazing, I still haven't found a specific mix that would make me want to drop the originals off....
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Which mix are you referring to? There are 5 I think. Granner DCS mix, Original, Tim Kitzrow "remixed", Haunted House remix, and one other I can't think of right now
I had mentioned the Granner DCS (as a must have and one that I was using) but afterwards I went to increase the RS call-outs and realized that I had actually been using the TK remixed. It is the one with the cleaner guitar rifts and slap bass. So this is the library that I currently enjoy the most but plan on augmenting it. This being said my GF actually disliked the music at first but doesn't comment on it now.
Unfortunately all of the Tim Kitzrow RS call-outs, across all current libraries, are distorted. Almost all of these can't be lifted from the series as they are custom to the pin. So, who has the best RS impression here? Many would pitch in for sure. I could post something online looking for someone to do 'custom' voice over work
Quoted from dnaman:I had mentioned the Granner DCS (as a must have and one that I was using) but afterwards I went to increase the RS call-outs and realized that I had actually been using the TK remixed. It is the one with the cleaner guitar rifts and slap bass. So this is the library that I currently enjoy the most but plan on augmenting it. This being said my GF actually disliked the music at first but doesn't comment on it now.
Unfortunately all of the Tim Kitzrow RS call-outs, across all current libraries, are distorted. Almost all of these can't be lifted from the series as they are custom to the pin. So, who has the best RS impression here? Many would pitch in for sure. I could post something online looking for someone to do 'custom' voice over work
Working on it - will have samples in June
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Which mix are you referring to? There are 5 I think. Granner DCS mix, Original, Tim Kitzrow "remixed", Haunted House remix, and one other I can't think of right now
It didn't have a name. it was the last one i listen too. It says twilight zone 1993 zip by gerald. That's what it says on the website. It's great. I love all the new backround music. finally a beat to the music i don't mind listening to. You know some backround music just gets so damn annoying. also the voice overs on power ball and custom call outs through out the game are cool. add a color DMD. just takes a great game to the next level.
Quoted from cavalier88z24:It didn't have a name. it was the last one i listen too. It says twilight zone 1993 zip by gerald. That's what it says on the website. It's great. I love all the new backround music. finally a beat to the music i don't mind listening to. You know some backround music just gets so damn annoying. also the voice overs on power ball and custom call outs through out the game are cool. add a color DMD. just takes a great game to the next level.
I will have to find that; I'm not sure I've heard that one.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:I will have to find that; I'm not sure I've heard that one.
i just went on the forum. it's still there. download it. convert it, and enjoy. i think you will like it.
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