Quoted from Coyote:Does the game make the sound effect of dumping? Is it a flat pull back and release, or a twitch?
No sounds at all, just a flat pull back and release once every 10 games or so. Totally at random
(Topic ID: 63352)
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Twilight Zone
Bally, 1993
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Quoted from tonyf1965:I have been looking to add a rocket ship mod. I really like this one.
Has anyone seen one of these or knows were to get one?
The silver one in the picture was made by pinballpro, but it's an older version. They still make one, but it looks more like the rocket on the playfield. http://pinballpro.net/shop/twilight-zone-rocket-ship-tz-6/
Hey guys -
Leaving this Wednesday to hit the road, from the East Coast to Reno, NV with a side-stop in Willits, CA.
So, as much as I like helping ya'll, I may be silent for a while. 
If anyone's in Ely, Nevada, let me know. I love US50 west of there. 
Quoted from Coyote:Hey guys -
Leaving this Wednesday to hit the road, from the East Coast to Reno, NV with a side-stop in Willits, CA.
So, as much as I like helping ya'll, I may be silent for a while.
If anyone's in Ely, Nevada, let me know. I love US50 west of there.
Good luck Coyote! Drive safely!
Quoted from lyonsden:Just got these back from the machine shop. Very excited to get one installed and see how it looks.
They look nice! Are they difficult to install? Does the mini playfield have to come off?
Quoted from KornFreak28:They look nice! Are they difficult to install? Does the mini playfield have to come off?
You can take them off and install very easily without taking off the miniplay field. There is a plastic cover than screws it down at the back left of the mini playfield. Unplugging the lights is also easy without taking off the miniplay field. Now reaching the plug to plug it back in, that is a tight fit without at least loosening the mini playfield.
Quoted from lyonsden:You can take them off and install very easily without taking off the miniplay field. There is a plastic cover than screws it down at the back left of the mini playfield. Unplugging the lights is also easy without taking off the miniplay field. Now reaching the plug to plug it back in, that is a tight fit without at least loosening the mini playfield.
there's rivets to deal with still correct?
Quoted from Chosen_S:there's rivets to deal with still correct?
You'll need to drill out the rivets to get the wiring harness out from the old lamp, and then either use new rivets or screws (my plan) to put them on the new lamp. I'll do this tonight/tomorrow and document the process.
Quoted from merccat:And dude... do you actually still have 5 1/4" floppy's?
Commodore-formatted, no less!
Quoted from merccat:And dude... do you actually still have 5 1/4" floppy's?
Ha! Glad someone noticed the drive. It goes with an old Pet (now used as a monitor stand.). I have a couple of 5.25" floppies somewhere...
Quoted from Coyote:Commodore-formatted, no less!
Okay -- I'm deeply impressed that you recognized that it was a Commodore from the photos. There isn't much to go on in my post!
Quoted from lyonsden:Okay -- I'm deeply impressed that you recognized that it was a Commodore from the photos. There isn't much to go on in my post!
I grew up with Commodore computers. The style, color, and font were a dead giveaway.
Sadly, I no longer have my C=64, the best of the bunch I ever had. Have been thinking about going out and getting one again.
Bismarck, ND
Quoted from lyonsden:You'll need to drill out the rivets to get the wiring harness out from the old lamp, and then either use new rivets or screws (my plan) to put them on the new lamp. I'll do this tonight/tomorrow and document the process.
Sounds good. This is something I'm looking forward to. Documenting the process will surely make things a lot easier for a lot of us
Quoted from Squeakman:Eric if you can make those at a considerably cheaper price than the pdi shade is be in. I do think I prefer twilight zone? On the sides though.
Hey Squeak -- I recall sending you an eBay link for buying one with the TZ logo(~$60) from Europe that was less expensive than the PDI (~$150). Also, I said that I don't undercut other mod makers (i.e., I'm not going to make a copy of anther mod in production and then sell it for less). So, if you want a TZ logo lamp cover, there are two options. But if you want an awesome one with an uber modern Illuminati eye on the top and a non-trademarked phrase, I have something you may like.
I like white also. I think the pdi has a film under it to give the color with a white bulb in there.? I like the color coming through the sides but it washes out the colors on the mini Playfield. Natural looks better to me. I use mostly white leds in my games also because I hate the washed out look it gives through the plastics.
A light filter sheet like what is used with stage lighting would line all of your prototypes and more plus its available in a wide range of colors.
Oh yeah they are called "gels"...
For example:
http://www.stagelightingstore.com/Stage-Lighting-Store/Roscolux-Gel-Sheets-Swatchbook-Order
Quoted from lyonsden:Blue (which doesn't photograph well.)
Put two color changers in there.
These pics made me wonder.... do we really need that piece of metal over there? 
What good does it make?
My new tz had a tv mod installed on it by the previous owner.
It's a slide show version but it only seems to come on when I switch the machine off (still plugged into the wall though).
Does any one have a link to the slideshow tv mod? I could only find info on the newer video ones.
I'm trying to understand if this is th correct behaviour or something is wrong.
Thanks everyone for all the feedback! I'll get some filter gels: https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-12-Inches-Transparent-Correction-Different/dp/B01CCIKB5Q .
I took pictures of the install process, and will get them written up and listed in my pinside shop for anyone that wants one.
Quoted from AlexSMendes:These pics made me wonder.... do we really need that piece of metal over there? What good does it make?
It provides light for the power playfield. Without it, it is pretty dark.
Just wrote up some instructions for how to change out the power playfield lamp: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1vLcQAf36xNg7wMxDtN5OjyFojRKBxq9J3ushS_IHC0o/edit
Quoted from lyonsden:Just wrote up some instructions for how to change out the power playfield lamp: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1vLcQAf36xNg7wMxDtN5OjyFojRKBxq9J3ushS_IHC0o/edit
Thank you! How much are they selling for?
Quoted from Chosen_S:I replaced my front decal, fairly stressful, even after really good prep
Looks great though!
I plan on attempting to re-decal my TZ this summer, so I'm going to start picking people's brains now. What in particular sucked, and what (if anything) would you do differently the next time around? I'm dreading do it, but know that it will be so worth it once it's done.
Quoted from BeaglePuss:Looks great though!
I plan on attempting to re-decal my TZ this summer, so I'm going to start picking people's brains now. What in particular sucked, and what (if anything) would you do differently the next time around? I'm dreading do it, but know that it will be so worth it once it's done.
There's nothing I'd do different... unless I learn some new stuff for next time
I remove the old decal with a scrapper and a heat gun
I used citristrip to aid in removing the old glue, as well as a scrapper and razor blades
I used bondo to fill in the gouges and nicks in the wood
Take some masking tape and tap the wood with the sticky part of the tape to remove any unwanted debris
I cut a small hole in the start button area to give me some guidance...
I used rapid tac
I used a hand held squeegee with felt on its edge to not scratch the decal
I removed 1/4 of the decals backing and sprayed it with rapidtac and applied and adjusted the decal until it was in a good place, then removed the rest of the backing to stick on the rest of the decal.
I used an exacto knife and a straight edge to trim everything.
This all took about 3, 1 hour sessions to complete
I still need to touch up some black areas on the edges with some paint and a small tipped brush
... and there is still some debris in the decal that didn't get removed, that's the frustrating part, despite all the prep, you really need a clean room to do this in. When I did my last game I pulled the game into the kitchen, it's the largest cleanest room in the house and everything went better
Quoted from KornFreak28:Thank you! How much are they selling for?
I have it posted in my pinside shop: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1025-professor-pinball/00837-twilight-zone-power-playfield-custom-lamp
I'm the proud new owner of my own #TZ. Working on getting everything on my machine running 100%. One question I have is where is the lamp above the mini-playfield supposed to sit and shine? Mine is shining just about over the top exit hole (where you want the ball to go to "defeat the power"). Is it supposed to shine more over the middle of the mini-playfield, toward the gumball machine exit or where mine is?
Where mine sits right now it creates a lot of glare off the plastic at the top of the mini-playfield and it just doesn't look quite right.
Thanks!
- Gblaz
Quoted from gblaz:I'm the proud new owner of my own #TZ. Working on getting everything on my machine running 100%. One question I have is where is the lamp above the mini-playfield supposed to sit and shine? Mine is shining just about over the top exit hole (where you want the ball to go to "defeat the power"). Is it supposed to shine more over the middle of the mini-playfield, toward the gumball machine exit or where mine is?
Where mine sits right now it creates a lot of glare off the plastic at the top of the mini-playfield and it just doesn't look quite right.
Thanks!
- Gblaz
From photos in the original flyer it appears to be positioned around where yours is, perhaps a little lower. Myself, my game area is relatively well lit anyway so I have it moved back toward the gumball exit. It looks fine to me there, doesn't obscure anything or produce any glare.
You can try bending the lamp's mount and change the angle. Also, you can put in flex head LEFs and more easily point them where it is best.
Quoted from crwjumper:I see that there are multiple sound ROMs for this game. What are the differences between them? Different quality of sound? Different sound clips?
Where are you seeing multiple sound ROMs?
Quoted from BeaglePuss:plan on attempting to re-decal my TZ this summer, so I'm going to start picking people's brains now. What in particular sucked, and what (if anything) would you do differently the next time around? I'm dreading do it, but know that it will be so worth it once it's done.
I've re-decaled 2 games now with TZ being the second, and everything Chosen_s said is really accurate. I didn't however, do mine "wet" with rapid tac, I did them dry because when doing the entire cabinet, I didn't want to have to wait for one side to dry before doing the other side. If you chose to do them dry, a "plug" panel for the coin door helps tremendously when doing the front.
I used a Bosch rotary sander very very similar to the festool sander to remove all the old decals, this process using 60 grit sandpaper. I guess the most important thing when doing decals is patience and preparation. Like Chosen_S said with bondo on the cabinet- make sure the cabinet is perfectly smooth, free of grain lines and nicks. T Hose things will stand out on a mostly black decaled game. THe other thing that's important is use a tack rag to wipe down the cab just before applying the decals. Try to do the decaling in a low-dust environment if you can. Don't do them outside.
Here are some photos of mi re-decal job on my TZ.
Quoted from Seatmandan:I've re-decaled 2 games now with TZ being the second, and everything Chosen_s said is really accurate. I didn't however, do mine "wet" with rapid tac, I did them dry because when doing the entire cabinet, I didn't want to have to wait for one side to dry before doing the other side. If you chose to do them dry, a "plug" panel for the coin door helps tremendously when doing the front.
I used a Bosch rotary sander very very similar to the festool sander to remove all the old decals, this process using 60 grit sandpaper. I guess the most important thing when doing decals is patience and preparation. Like Chosen_S said with bondo on the cabinet- make sure the cabinet is perfectly smooth, free of grain lines and nicks. T Hose things will stand out on a mostly black decaled game. THe other thing that's important is use a tack rag to wipe down the cab just before applying the decals. Try to do the decaling in a low-dust environment if you can. Don't do them outside.
Here are some photos of mi re-decal job on my TZ.
Looks great!
Quoted from Coyote:Where are you seeing multiple sound ROMs?
Maybe I'm misunderstanding, but when on IPDB it lists L-1, L-2 & P-3 sound ROMs.
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