Edit: I'm confused by your statement, "The switch has connectivity..." If you tested continuity from the orange/gray wire at J205 to the switch and found continuity then there is no break in the wire and the below information probably won't help.
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Yes, if I understand you correctly. You should try and trace the Orange/Gray wire from the switch to J205.
D8 is your enter switch. The manual (page 3-3) shows the wires as Orange/Gray and Black. If you disconnected J205 and jumpered pins 9 and 11 and got a result as if you pressed the enter button then tested your switch and confirmed it's good that indicates a problem in the circuit connecting the orange/gray wire. It goes through the coin door interface board between the switch and J205. I would check connectors J1 (pin 8 ) & J3 (pin 11) on the coin door interface board (page 3-31)

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Awesome - thank you - sorry - new to testing things and even using a multi meter so I mis-spoke. I meant I checked that the button when I press down worked as I got the beep so that is fine - was hoping as a couple suggested I could just push button down a bunch or clean and that would solve it.

When I tested the connectivity from the switch to the plug going into J205 I did not get connectivity so seems like it is the wire break and your info and drawings will help and will try that next. TYVM for sharing! I was preliminary thinking the issue would be around the coin door as the switch worked well for a while and just stopped working and I had noticed the wires were not really tied together well when I got the game and was opening and closing the door often figure something may have pulled loose or broke but cannot see anything apparent.

Thanks again and appreciate the patience with the noob! Your guys knowledge and willingness to help us learn is amazing!

Thanks for the warm welcome and great advice, everyone. I will take my time and find a solid machine.

I second this, curious of the thickness

I will look for the invoice to confirm in the morning (gmt +2), but I want to say 0.5 mm thick, it's the same thickness as the original board, I will doublecheck in six to eight hours time

Neat little mod I did on the coin slots, let me know if you want the artwork I'll post it then

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That reminds me...I made a CAD file of the outline of the mini playfield protector and saved it as a .dxf file. You can take it to any local plastics supplier and they will cut it out of any material you want.

A link to the file is below:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/vcfmwxhtvyw4oq7/Mini%20Playfield%20Protector.DXF?dl=0

Mini Playfield Protector (resized).PNG

That looks like Charlie Chaplin

I like those! Mine say "tokens" but it would be fun to replace them...

Hey everyone. My name is jesse. Im new to the forum here. Just wanted to say i joined the tz club today. Big thanks to shawn. (Arcadenerd) for getting this to me. I love all the knowledge ive been reading on here. (Even though most of it seems greek to me most of the time). Well i just wanted to introduce myself to everyone. & if your in the downey area here feel free to drop by & play!

Welcome to the club and congrats on a great first game!

I've been looking around and I can't seem to find a source for WPC onto switch receivers. I found the transmitters at Marco, but can't seem to locate the receivers anywhere. What's a good source for these?

Found them at Bay Area Amusements.

This little hunt will teach me to work on things at 1am after a few (I put the mini playfield back in wrong and immediately blew out the optos).

Receiver
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=169

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-16909

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-14232

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-16909-1

Transmitter
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=168

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-14231

Everything I could find so far

Thanks and Dang, I should have waited a week before ordering. When I went to Marco their site showed them as out of stock and I was only able to get the transmitters.

Totally get it, I hate it when that happens

It took me 3 years to find "mini post" on Marco... some of their parts are like hidden jewels

Would you guys replace the cabinet decals on this game? They look very good in terms of color, but there is some leg wrinkling and on the right side a few pin holes. The front has a tear so I will replace that one, easy enough. Head decals, not shown are very good. I'm taking hardware off today for powder coating, but I really am hesitant to take on the cabinet side decals as time is a very big issue for me.

The wrinkling was caused by someone using the upper leg holes (my game as three).

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0.9mm ABS, so 1mm would be fine

crap... now i cant unsee that

Thank you. I'm going to order a sheet from EBay and try this.

Well, it really depends on how picky you are! If it were mine, I'd replace'em all!

This is about 40 mins of sanding. I think a heat gun could be better. Using 100 grit paper and a festooned sander.

Pulled out the belt sander and the rest took 5 mins, but you have to be careful with a tool like that as it can easily gouge if you aren't careful. I'd guesstimate I could get the sides off in an hour with that tool, but I decided not to do the sides at this point.

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Bulbs from the door panels on my pin have a tendency to fall out. Anyone have fix for that?

All done. About 2 hrs total.

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Nice job! About to tackle a decal project on my RFM... TZ will be next. Where did you get your decal from?

What are peoples opinion on Silicon Rings in a TZ? I use Titan Pinball's rings in my WOZ and have been really happy with their performance there, but I know they are not right for every game.

I had bought a kit of the "factory proper" white rings but I must say that I'm pretty disappointed in them. Two weeks in and they are already starting to disintegrate and break. They looked fine installing so I'm figuring I either got a bad batch or while unused they were too old. At least I have some spares of common sizes sitting around to keep me playing.

Can't remember. I've had them rolled up under my game the past three years. With that belt sander, I bet I could get the side decals off in an hour per side with 60 grit. I went back with 100, 150 and 220 grit. You really have to get all the roughness out as even small imperfections will show up. Also, never use wood putty to fill holes, especially if you do the wet method, as wood putty shrinks when water hits it and you'll get a divot. Use bondo!

Games is going to look great with the black armor.

I just did decals on ES, I removed them with a heat gun and a paint scraper, then I had to spray citirus stripper on the cab to scrape off the old glue, although on the head I just sanded the glue and got it as flat as I could, and went ahead and re sprayed the blue paint areas, then sanded the sides again after the paint was dry, then laid on the new decals. It was a few days of work.

The decals all removed in 20 minutes from the heat gun and paint scraper

Yes, use bondo, I found out about the wood filler the hard way with the wet method on the front of the cab,

The sides and the head got the dry method treatment.

Lermods, how did you line up the decal on the cab, the placement looks great!

I haven't tried the Titan rings, but there's a whole thread about them: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-product-competition-silicone-rings

I personally was going for an original look, so I used all white rubber from Pinball Life. Aside from the inlane rubber (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/twilight-zone-cant-find-correct-rubber-size-for-inlane), I had no troubles and Pinball Life white rubbers have always held up well for me.

As an aside, I recommend you clean your subways. I find the grime in the subways are a major contributor of dirt to the playfield rubbers which are made more visible by white rubbers.

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Great tip on cleaning the subways. I already have, but man were they NASTY! 20+ years on location and while the game was overall well maintained those were clearly never cleaned.... Clear?...no. Translucent?... no. Pretty dark?... no. Pitch Black?... bingo. Even the under side of the play field that was covered by the subways was black.

-Ryan

Thx. I eyeballed and used the start button as a reference point. The start button has to be in the middle of the spiral, if it's not, it will look really bad. I spent a lot of time looking at it to make sure it was right. The front decal is very forgiving on the game with a lot of extra black around the top and sides.

Always recommend keeping the screen printed cab art whenever possible.... its just better.

Right on, it took resetting ES front decal about 10 times to get it spot on.

Looks fantastic! You did a great job. I've had a bear of a time with some front decals due to getting wrinkles from having the large gap where the door goes and not being able to get all four sides equally placed down.

Nice Job! I noticed the instruction cards and how the graphics blend with the apron. Are they available anywhere?

I am away from my game right now but I've always suspected my front art is a decal, placed on top of the original screened art. What might be the best way to remove it without damaging the screened stuff underneath? Assuming I can verify that there is indeed a decal at all

Heat gun, patience. But if it was decaled it was done for a reason. Have a plan for repair before you rip it off.

Thy are sweet and yes I think a pinsider did them and had posted the jpegs here at one time. I couldn't find them but a google image search did turn them up on photobucket. I actually just turned them into a pdf and had kinkos print me a pair on their glossy card stock, they look great.

If the creator doesn't mind me reposting his cards as a ready to print PDF I'll happily put them up.

Edit: Looks like another guy did a set similarly but included rod sterlings photo on them (pinballcards.com), however I think I prefer the ones without the photos.

Edit Edit:
Found them. Its actually from the google group and referenced in the TZ Mods thread. Here is a link the ones I used. Really happy with the result.

https://groups.google.com/forum/m/?hl=en#!topic/rec.games.pinball/QuYFiLkMW5o

Nice job! Did you fill the coin door hole to apply the decal? Did you cut the coin door hole after the decal was installed?

Just had my best game yet! Lit up the entire door and had the Handle flashing. Wasn't sure what to do, and before I could figure it out, I drained!!! So close!!!

What do I need to hit to get to LITZ?

Shoot piano or slot (Or Battle Power, if lit).

I cut the hole for the coindoor after the decal was applied. You need an exacto knife with a very sharp blade to trim it. Decal was applied using wet method, Dawn and water.

They are all decals. Best way to prevent wrinkling is with metal cabinet protectors. Pinball life sells a set for $15.

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=2711

Hmm... you sure about that?

I'm sure coyote will chime in, but I thought all were decals. Mine is from June 93 and it's decaled.

I have had a machine with beautiful new decals wrinkle (badly) around the leg protectors. Wondering if there is a way to prevent this through the decal application process. I can take my question to the tech forums if I ever get serious about doing some decals. Just thought whoever applied them here might have a quick tip from their experience... Also, looking at my machine, it looks like paint. Here is what I am seeing where it looks like wood grain coming through in the white areas only. The more I inspect maybe they are decals...

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I guess wood grain could show through a decal too...

Decals will show every flaw underneath, including rough sanding marks. That's why it's critical to have a perfectly flat and clean surface.