Very nice restoration, I'm glad mine inspired you to do the black armor. I think black armor is perfect for TZ. Now if I could only find me another one for as little as you did....(jealous)

Is ther any guideline as to when a powerball should be replaced or is it pretty much the same criteria as a steel ball? The powerball in my game is clearly older and not as white as it could be but there are no chips or gouges to speak of.

Has any had an issue with ball launches not making the full orbit? When I get a Ball Saved or Multiball, and the ball gets shot out, it looks to stop around this point shown in the photo. Note sure if it's the magnet, guides, or something else.

Also when I shoot the ball into lock, about 1 out of 3 times, it will roll back out. It sounds like it's hitting something metal before it pops back out.

Any help would be appreciated

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The discussion really changes when the cost of a ball changes from $1 to $40. To complicate this further, some people are measuring that newer replacement powerballs play differently than the original powerball: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tz-powerball-original

I'm going to weight my original powerball and report back.

Yeah, if the original is fine, looking at $40+ for a single ball gives some pause. I wouldn't mind having a spare on hand but feels high.

Spoke to previous owner, and he mentioned that this was normal for him regarding the Lock issue. From videos I've watched, it should not be doing this.

Ball is still not completing an orbit. Curious to know if anyone has experienced this or knows a fix.

When you observe the ball as it gets launched, does it appear that the ball is hitting anything or getting snagged anywhere (trajectory changes, sudden speed changes)? How are the mechanics of the auto plunger? Mech moves freely?

Some people have had good results cleaning their powerball, but I've always hesitated to do so since the owner's manual says not to do so.

I can't really see how it'd hurt to clean it with something non-abrasive and non-caustic or non-alcoholic. I don't think there was a special coating on those things. I haven't cleaned mine yet, but mainly because it's not that dirty and I like the pearlescent look to it.

I also get perhaps 1 out of 10 autolaunched balls end up rattling enough in the orbit such that it falls back down the right orbit.

This is normal and a common complaint: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-definitive-twilight-zone-lock-shot-fix-thread

For the powerball, being 'grey' has no affect on playing; it's purely cosmetic. I've never tried cleaning mine. While $40 isn't a drop in the hat, getting a new one every three years or so (seems to be the time limit before mine turns really steel-pinball dark), it's nothing huge. Especially when compared to, like, the cost of 40 LEDs.

Is the kicker weak, or is the kicker sending out the ball at a good velocity, and the the ball seems to hit something or bounce around?

I spent some time trying to manually clean the powerball (with Novus). That accomplished almost nothing after 15 minutes of hand polishing. Aside from tumbling it, I think the only other option is to buy a new one.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cleaning-powerball

I'll pay US$ 5 for your old dirty one...

Thanks for the tip!! The switch has connectivity and I unplugged J205 and built a jumper and was able to get the enter to work that way (thanks to the person that posted the wikipin link to how to test these switches!) so for sure the wiring is the issue as you suggest. Since all the other switches work do you know if that means it has to be the Orange and not the ground or could it be either or? Nothing seemed obviously loose so any tips on tracing this out? Really appreciate all your guys help on this site! Thanks!

Quick documentation on a diagnostic process (for those non tech types to know what goes on in the head of a tech fumbling his way through):

1. Test report showed all but one of my EOS switches was out on TZ.

2. Not being super familiar with the WPC switch matrix... to the manual! EOS switches are dedicated and go to J906 on the fliptronic board, this will be easy to test... to the jumper cables..

3. Hookup to the indicated switch ground (pin 6 - orange wire) and tap each pin on J906 with switch edge test on... they all work (*phew*)... to the high power flashlight.

4. The common wire is Ground (orange), follow from switch to switch (not being sure the order they were wired in) and finally... bingo!

Well there's yer problem...

Power off, cleanup wire, quick dab of fresh solder... good as new. Time to play a game.

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Thanks for the link. I tried putting magnetic tape along both sides, but no improvement.

I guess I have to try mounting the other magnet to draw it in more.

As for the autolauncher, it does seem to hit something an rattle. Can't quite figure out what it is. Maybe have to record it in slow motion. Seems to happen about 1/3 times.

Just suits it so much! The black cab art blends in so well to the trim/armor.

Has anyone tumbled theirs? Does it dull the shiny finish?

Wish I could remember what I cleaned my Powerball with. The difference was DRAMATIC! I remember it was quick and easy. The gray came right off and it has looked great ever since.

For me polishing with chrome polish worked great to clean the power ball.

You know, I bet that if I put the powerball in my tumbler with some water and FITZ chrome polish and let it go overnight it would come out great.

the ball is ceramic right? what about hydrogen peroxide, or diluted muriatic acid... maybe treat it as if it is a piece of ceramic tile?

Wow What I love about being in this club is that this is by far the most techinical one... So, it means that most of the time I don't understand shit of what you guys are saying... even if it's only about a ball now

And what about plain water?

Anyone have an old powerball lying around to try this?

http://lifehacker.com/5881940/use-flour-and-peroxide-to-clean-stains-in-stone-countertops-tile-and-concrete-floors

I inquired with a local place and for $140 I can get the legs, coin door, hinges, shooter housing, lock bar and rails done in black.

Never took off side rails, hope I don't damage them. Will use a putty knife.

Debating whether to put on new cab decals. Mine are in good shape except for some wrinkling around the legs. I just don't have a lot of hours to spend doing all the prep.

Isn't your coin door already black?

Yes, but it's a bit beat up and the cost of having it redone and match the other components in texture is minimal.

I just did a full set of decals on earth shaker, I would say about five hours of prep time , Most of it was scraping the old decals off, and then scraping the old glue off, then dry time , Plus, the playfield has to come out. And if you're going that route, you might as will touch up all of the black paint in the head, that will add even more time.

Is this faint red Williams "W" on my TZ speaker panel normal?

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No.
No TZs had that. It's a Bally game (and despite being the same company, AFAIK they didn't 'mix' brands like that..)

Your speaker grills were taking from something else.

Amusing, and if it don't bother you, I'd keep it..

I have a really nice TZ, color dmd, original cabinet,which is bright, lots of mods , leds,chrome, I'm in the bay area ,playfield is beautiful, thinking of selling , Hate craigs list, looking for a aerosmith LE ? I can add cash ,
Will sell outright but don't have time to deal with tire kickers,

Excellent. Thanks for the advice.I have left the old rubbers on because I could not get the damn bands on without pulling so hard I was worried about ripping the flipper off.

yeah, it's pretty cool... i will look at the right one to see if it has it too next time I think about it!!

it looks to be from either: Whitewater, fish tales or getaway HS 2

Little awkward, but I'm new to the site, and figured I'd make my first post here since TZ is my favorite pin. I'm an arcade collector, and in the market for my first pin (which will be a TZ). Looking forward to learning all I can.

Not a bad first post! Welcome! An arcade collector here too! Don't be surprised if you end up with 3 or more pins in the next month, hehe

I planned for 1 arcade cabinet, and it turned into a collection. My plan is to purchase 1 pin, but I'm already eyeing other pins. It's a sickness.

That it is. For me after getting into pinball collecting the arcade games went by the wayside. I still have a few but been meaning to get of of em.

Anyway.. question on the shooter lane divider.... my wife kept getting balls stuck on the top of the divider and there was no way to dislodge it without a tilt. Basically a plunge with not quite enough to completely clear the gate and your ball is over. Is that normal? My solution was to simply wedge a post sleve into the front of the divider up there at the gate which seems pretty effective. But I was wondering what is proper for that spot.

Pretty large step for first pinball machine. A properly working TZ is a sight to behold, and easy to maintain, but when they have multiple problems, they can be a S.O.B. to diagnose.... One thing's for sure, cutting your teeth on this title will prepare you for most all other machines!

My first pin was a TZ that I bought about 1 year ago. Absolutely 0 buyer's remorse.

Take your time and find a solid machine. There a lots of TZ's out there.

Also, be sure to read Vid's guides, especially this one:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cleaning-and-waxing-pinball-machines-vids-guide

Welcome!
TZ was the first game I ever owned. Originally being an operator/tech, TZ was one of the few games at the time that I really 'got into'. I have a couple pins now, but also have a few arcades as well. (Driving games, video, redemption, changer, etc.)

Okay, little clarification needed - are you meaning the *gate* up at the skillshot and leading to the rocket, or are you meaning the diverter at the entrance to the autofire kicker?

If the former, try adjusting it - loosen the two screws on the underside of the PF and the screw on top, and shift it, see if that helps.

For the record, mine USED to work perfect - never got balls hung up. However, after clearcoating the PF, the thickness and reassembly now causes one in maybe 100 balls to get stuck. (Used to be more, I had to mess with it..)

Oh yeah, sorry. Yes the gate up by the rocket, not the diverter. A skill shot attempt with just the right amount of foce will go under the gate but not completely through and end up sitting on top of the divider between thr autoplunge lane and the shooter lane. As the divider is open up there it cradles the ball pretty good and it takes a tilt to dislodge it.

Cramming the post sleve into there seems to pretty well solved it as the ball no longer has a chance to roll that way without first completely clearing the gate but wondering if its at all common or what solutions are preferred.

Replaced the grody cardboard under the mini playfield with new white abs.

The white will reflect the new LED lights nicer and will give a nice secondary bounce light under the mini playfield, you can use black abs for a different effect and it will absorb allot of the light, you could also scuff up the abs for a softer bounce light, but I didn't.

Used a Dremel with a circle band sanding bit to shape it perfectly and quickly after cutting the basic form with an nt cutter. The holes where drilled with a 3mm wood bit.

I can draw the cutout as a template you can just stick onto a piece of abs ?

I used abs because it's thin, strong and flexible.

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I like that. Where did you get the plastic sheet?

nice job. I did mine in acrylic. I like seeing the light shine under the mini play field a little.

NICE!!! OK time for someone to laser cut those bad boys! I'm in for one...

It takes five minutes to make

I got the abs from a plastic manufacturer, you only need slightly bigger than A4 so sometimes they just give you a sample for free, this piece cost me 12 South African rand so in dollars that about 80 cents

Just installed these blue led buttons from pinball life

The blue is out of the gamut range of my phones camera, so it looks better in life

The kit was easy and you can set the fade rate in the blink/twinkling or just have it on, and change the brightness from a little built in controller switch.

I matched the blink cycle rate to the intro stars if the tv show eventually - yeah I'm that guy

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My local plastic supplier for industrial signage, maizys plastics herein South Africa

It's technically abs , normal plastic will melt and/or crack and get brittle

Abs is used in the signage industry, it's cheap and versatile

What thickness did you use?

It looks like Ebay has plenty of suppliers.