(Topic ID: 63352)

Twilight Zone Owner's club

By Caucasian2Step

10 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

IMG_0389 (resized).jpeg
Pinside_market_174448_16 (1) (resized).jpg
PXL_20240324_225901432 (resized).jpg
PXL_20240324_225930656 (resized).jpg
PXL_20240324_225912893 (resized).jpg
PXL_20240324_225925287 (resized).jpg
switch_cover_clip (resized).jpg
switch_cover (resized).jpg
IMG_5104 (resized).jpeg
IMG_5105 (resized).jpeg
twilight-zone-escape-clause-youre-the-devil-1_resize.gif
IMG_5096 (resized).jpeg
20240227_093351 (resized).jpg
Eddy board (resized).png
Screenshot 2024-03-02 at 8.44.39 AM (resized).png
Screenshot 2024-03-01 at 5.00.06 PM (resized).png

Topic index (key posts)

8 key posts have been marked in this topic (Show topic index)

There are 15,099 posts in this topic. You are on page 74 of 302.
#3651 6 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

To fill in on the Lock, for those who are really anal about it, or may want to change how their game operates..
There are several lock settings that adjust how a player can start multiball:
A.2 10 - 1st Hard Lock: This setting defaults to '2'. It is easily confused with A.2 13, but is regarding the 'GUM' and 'BALL' lamps/ramp shots. Since default is '2', this means that the 1st Multiball is 'not hard'. Okay, so, this is the multiball # that you have to shoot the ramps to spell 'GUMBALL' before you can lock your second ball, OR, depending on A.2 13, get your release!
A.2 11 - 1st Hard Release: This setting indicates the first time the player has to spell 'GUM' and 'BALL' before the multiball start is ready. By default, this is the 3rd multiball. What this means is, assuming A.2 10 is set to default ('2'), and you just completed your 1st multiball. The second multiball you have to spell 'GUM' and 'BALL' once to lock ball 1. Then again to lock ball 2. Then, LOCK will be solid - no need to shoot the ramps to spell 'GUM' and 'BALL' again. Now, you start and lose multiball, and you swear you're going to get that effin' jackpot. So, you then, to get the 3rd multiball, have to spell 'GUM' and 'BALL' for lock 1, lock 2, and then *again* for the release.
A.2 12 - Last Ramp Release: This setting is the *last* (not first, like the ones above) multiball you can shoot up the Ramp (and around to the Autolauncher) to start Multiball. By default, this is '1', as the first multiball is the only one you won't have to shoot the lock to start.
A.2 13 - Last Easy Release: This setting is the *last* multiball that will allow it to start after only ONE ball is locked.
Because I've seen a lot of confusion between A.2 10 and A.2 13, here's an example of shots required to start 1st and second multiball on a game:
With the game set to defaults, and at the start of a game, you can get the first multiball by:
- Light 'GUM' and 'BALL'.
- Shoot the LOCK. (Ball 1 locked.)
- Shoot the LOCK or Main Ramp, start Multiball.
- Multiball over.
- Light 'GUM' and 'BALL'.
- Shoot the LOCK. (Ball 1 locked.)
- Shoot the LOCK. (Ball 2 locked.)
- Shoot the LOCK. (Multiball start.)
Say you change A.2 10 to '1' (1st Multiball is 'Hard Lock'), then, THIS is what you have to do:
- Light 'GUM' and 'BALL'.
- Shoot the LOCK.
- Light 'GUM' and 'BALL' again.
- Shoot the LOCK or Main Ramp, start Multiball.
- Multiball over.
- Light 'GUM' and 'BALL'.
- Shoot the LOCK. (Ball 1 locked.)
- Shoot the LOCK. (Ball 2 locked.)
- Shoot the LOCK. (Multiball start.)
Now, taking the above into play, let's say you change A.2 12 from default of 1 to 2 (Last Ramp Release):
- Light 'GUM' and 'BALL'.
- Shoot the LOCK.
- Light 'GUM' and 'BALL' again.
- Shoot the LOCK or Main Ramp, start Multiball.
- Multiball over.
- Light 'GUM' and 'BALL'.
- Shoot the LOCK. (Ball 1 locked.)
- Shoot the LOCK. (Ball 2 locked.)
- Shoot the LOCK or Main Ramp, start Multiball.
Now, taking the above, change A.2 11 from 3 to 2. (1st hard release.):
- Light 'GUM' and 'BALL'.
- Shoot the LOCK.
- Light 'GUM' and 'BALL' again.
- Shoot the LOCK or Main Ramp, start Multiball.
- Multiball over.
- Light 'GUM' and 'BALL'.
- Shoot the LOCK. (Ball 1 locked.)
- Shoot the LOCK. (Ball 2 locked.)
- Light 'GUM' and 'BALL' again.
- Shoot the LOCK or Main Ramp, start Multiball.
So, with these 4 settings, you can really give a little nuance to how you can start Multiball.

I gotta print this and hang beside my pin!

#3652 6 years ago

I should stop talking and let you guys figure it out for yourselves.

#3653 6 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

I should stop talking and let you guys figure it out for yourselves.

Nah, you can keep on posting... BTW, kinda little off-topic here.. what is your degree of knowledge about TotAN?

#3654 6 years ago
Quoted from AlexSMendes:

Nah, you can keep on posting... BTW, kinda little off-topic here.. what is your degree of knowledge about TotAN?

ToTAN? Very very little. When the game was released, I could never get into it. Didn't care for the theme, and didn't have any in any of my arcades, so that added to the fact it wasn't a theme that caught my attention, I played it and followed it very little.

#3655 6 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

ToTAN? Very very little. When the game was released, I could never get into it. Didn't care for the theme, and didn't have any in any of my arcades, so that added to the fact it wasn't a theme that caught my attention, I played it and followed it very little.

The reason I asked you is because your name was mentioned at the TotAN club thread...

#3656 6 years ago
Quoted from AlexSMendes:

The reason I asked you is because your name was mentioned at the TotAN club thread...

It was?
Huh. I see it now. Had to search. I never got a notification for that..

#3657 6 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

I should stop talking and let you guys figure it out for yourselves.

...or not--keep the info coming, dude, it is always appreciated!

#3658 6 years ago

Hell, I can ramble on for hours about TZ crap. And then another few days about WCS crap. And then Safecracker and CV crap.

Thank godd I don't like hearing myself talk.

#3659 6 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Hell, I can ramble on for hours about TZ crap. And then another few days about WCS crap. And then Safecracker and CV crap.
Thank godd I don't like hearing myself talk.

Hey Coyote,

I know this might be a bit off topic but I love Harper's Ferry! Love the casino and the royalicious sandwiches are the Bomb!!!

Looking to become a TZ member soon!

#3660 6 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Hey Coyote,
I know this might be a bit off topic but I love Harper's Ferry! Love the casino and the royalicious sandwiches are the Bomb!!!
Looking to become a TZ member soon!

If you're ever in the area, lemme know, stop on by.
I live outside the town, in the backwoods. Yes, I own a banjo.

#3661 6 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

If you're ever in the area, lemme know, stop on by.
I live outside the town, in the backwoods. Yes, I own a banjo.

LOL!!! Sounds like a plan! I love the drive to DC from Harper's Ferry too. Might be up there in a few months. Last time I was there, was right around April, maybe March 2015 and It was snowing! I stayed at the Casino Hotel, which was really nice

#3662 6 years ago

KornFreak, you really shouldn't let go of that TAF! Even if it's for such a beauty as TZ

#3663 6 years ago
Quoted from snowvictim:

KornFreak, you really shouldn't let go of that TAF! Even if it's for such a beauty as TZ

Trust me, I don't want to sell it but at this point in time, It's a move I must make. I got other stuff going on at the moment. Just sold my BSD and my 2017 modded Metallica is next

BSD has given me some room to do a Sell + Trade for TAF. TZ is about the only machine I would do that for. I plan on keeping my all time favorite Indiana Jones tho. I played some TAF today and that thing plays amazing! So you like TAF better that TZ?

#3664 6 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Trust me, I don't want to sell it but at this point in time, It's a move I must make. I got other stuff going on at the moment. Just sold my BSD and my 2017 modded Metallica is next
BSD has given me some room to do a Sell + Trade for TAF. TZ is about the only machine I would do that for. I plan on keeping my all time favorite Indiana Jones tho. I played some TAF today and that thing plays amazing! So you like TAF better that TZ?

Wow man I was going to offer to trade for my sample TZ, which has the prototype playfield, 3rd magnet installed (with optos), correctly wired door flashers, EL wire star field back board, plus every mod available.... then I saw your price for the TAF! Holy Shniekies!

#3665 6 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Wow man I was going to offer to trade for my sample TZ, which has the prototype playfield, 3rd magnet installed (with optos), correctly wired door flashers, EL wire star field back board, plus every mod available.... then I saw your price for the TAF! Holy Shniekies!

And I'm losing money! This TAF is decked out! Let's see your TZ...you never know!

#3666 6 years ago

What are the differences between a sample TZ with a proto playfield VS a "regular" TZ? Thanks!

#3667 6 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

What are the differences between a sample TZ with a proto playfield VS a "regular" TZ? Thanks!

This thread documents all the differences with photos between a sample and regular TZ: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/sample-tz (thanks, of course, to Coyote for listing everything)

Long story made short, there was a lot of stuff that changed/removed as TZ manufacturing when to full production.

#3668 6 years ago
Quoted from lyonsden:

This thread documents all the differences with photos between a sample and regular TZ: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/sample-tz (thanks, of course, to Coyote for listing everything)
Long story made short, there was a lot of stuff that changed/removed as TZ manufacturing when to full production.

Thank you!!

#3669 6 years ago

Having a little issue with Spiral magnet. When I lite spiral, and I shoot it into the lane, the ball stick to the magnet, but then it just hangs there. I have to give the machine a little nudge, and then the ball starts rolling down. Any ideas?

Also, noticed that the machine was really wobbly tonight. Went around and tightened all the legs bolts, and noticed that one in the back was not making contact. I screw it in fully, and it just continued to rotate lie it's not catching. I took the bolt out and tried in another leg hole, and it held. So looks like it's the bracket.

Would I need to get one of these to replace: http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=144

Looks like there is a ground screwed attached to one of the screws on the current bracket as well. Can anyone confirm.

Thanks

#3670 6 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

When I lite spiral, and I shoot it into the lane, the ball stick to the magnet, but then it just hangs there. I have to give the machine a little nudge, and then the ball starts rolling down. Any ideas?

If you set the ball there, you may notice either the ball is magnetized or the metal core is not level with the playfield. You can easily adjust the height of those and replace them when too beat up and gouged.

Quoted from Damien:

I took the bolt out and tried in another leg hole, and it held. So looks like it's the bracket.
Would I need to get one of these to replace: http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=144
Looks like there is a ground screwed attached to one of the screws on the current bracket as well. Can anyone confirm.

Yes, those get stripped and sometimes need replacement, and yes the each plate has a ground attached or routed behind it for safety. You might want to grab some bolts too if you notice any wear on the threads of yours.

#3671 6 years ago
Quoted from ita47:

Lots of hard work. I took everything out of the cabinet including the ground wire, then sanded it real good. I then taped off the floor of the cabinet and painted the inside walls all the way down too the floor. Then reinstalled everything. The artwork on the outside of the cabinet is original but my dad did clear coat it with 2PAC which turned out great!

well it looks shit hot, well done

#3672 6 years ago

Hi guys - my Enter/Begin Test button just stopped working (far right). Other 3 work. I pulled the bracket and checked the red and black wires and they are tight. It worked up until now with no issues.

Any suggestions what else to check or do these just go bad and need replacement? Thank you!

TZ enter switch (resized).jpgTZ enter switch (resized).jpg

#3673 6 years ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

If you set the ball there, you may notice either the ball is magnetized or the metal core is not level with the playfield. You can easily adjust the height of those and replace them when too beat up and gouged.

How would you suggest testing the magnet?

And if I needed to replace, could you point me to a spot I could find the part, and possibly directions to do the install.

Thanks

#3674 6 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

How would you suggest testing the magnet?

I mean - test the balls there and see if they stick with the power off, meaning they are magnetized.

Also, check if the metal core is level with the playfield, or if there is a ridge there.

#3675 6 years ago
Quoted from hockeymag8:

Hi guys - my Enter/Begin Test button just stopped working (far right). Other 3 work. I pulled the bracket and checked the red and black wires and they are tight. It worked up until now with no issues.
Any suggestions what else to check or do these just go bad and need replacement? Thank you!

This happened to me when I got my project doctor who. Make sure that piece of wire which handles the ground is tight too, the solder can separate. Your buttons may also just be dirty.. jam it up and down a whole bunch and wiggle it around and see if you can get contact. I had to hold mine down and wiggle it back and forth, side to side and it would eventually connect

#3676 6 years ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

I mean - test the balls there and see if they stick with the power off, meaning they are magnetized.
Also, check if the metal core is level with the playfield, or if there is a ridge there.

Looks like it's level.

However, with the power off, the ball does not seem to stick to the magnet. On the spiral ramp, the ball looks to hold a little bit just above the magnet (not directly on it).

The magnet itself has some wear on it, and has some black scuffs.

Also, I'm not sure if the magnet on the right ramp is working or not, but sometimes when the ball auto-launces, it will not make the full orbit around to come out where the spiral is.

Any ideas?

#3677 6 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Looks like it's level.
However, with the power off, the ball does not seem to stick to the magnet. On the spiral ramp, the ball looks to hold a little bit just above the magnet (not directly on it).
The magnet itself has some wear on it, and has some black scuffs.
Also, I'm not sure if the magnet on the right ramp is working or not, but sometimes when the ball auto-launces, it will not make the full orbit around to come out where the spiral is.
Any ideas?

...With the power off, the ball should NOT stick to the magnet. It's an electro-magnet, not a rare Earth magnet. That means it needs power to work Think about it - if it just grabbed the ball all the time, how could you ever get the ball past it?

You need to take the glass off, power the game on, put it in test mode and turn the magnet on - THEN see if it sticks

#3679 6 years ago
Quoted from hockeymag8:

Hi guys - my Enter/Begin Test button just stopped working (far right). Other 3 work. I pulled the bracket and checked the red and black wires and they are tight. It worked up until now with no issues.
Any suggestions what else to check or do these just go bad and need replacement? Thank you!

Check for continuity on the two leads the wires are connected to. If you press the button and it has continuity that means the button is good and your problem is in the wiring somewhere.

If you don't have continuity when you press the button then you can try spraying inside the button with contact cleaner, wiggling the switch back and forth a bunch of times, checking other leads on the switch and possibly moving one of the wires to a lead that is showing the correct results.

#3680 6 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

...With the power off, the ball should NOT stick to the magnet. It's an electro-magnet, not a rare Earth magnet. That means it needs power to work Think about it - if it just grabbed the ball all the time, how could you ever get the ball past it?
You need to take the glass off, power the game on, put it in test mode and turn the magnet on - THEN see if it sticks

Makes total sense. Will try it out tonight.

If I do need a replacement, or just want to replace and have new magnets in there, do I just need these:

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1837

#3681 6 years ago
Quoted from YeOldPinPlayer:

Gum is the left ramp, ball is the right ramp. After they are lit you can load the gumball machine by shooting the right loop.
To get LitZ you need to light all twelve door panels. Generally those are lit via the piano and slot machine. The camera can also light some of them.

Also, each time you beat the power you'll get a door award. To further clarify, hitting the slot machine gives you a random door award and hitting the piano gives you the currently blinking door award. Once you get all of the door awards then the ? Door award lights and you just need to hit either the slot or piano to start lost in the zone

#3682 6 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Makes total sense. Will try it out tonight.
If I do need a replacement, or just want to replace and have new magnets in there, do I just need these:
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1837

If you haven't already, download the operators manual: http://ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=2684

Find the diagram with the part that you are looking for. Part numbers are listed. Most sellers (like Pinball Life) also reference the original Williams part number.

#3683 6 years ago

Thanks for the suggestions - tried just moving the switch up and down and around no luck - will try the other items this week! Really appreciate the guidance!

#3684 6 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Makes total sense. Will try it out tonight.
If I do need a replacement, or just want to replace and have new magnets in there, do I just need these:
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1837

Yes if it's the magnet that's burned out - but I think you should be able to see it physically burned. You might want to test the corresponding optos too, in order to make sure they are turning the magnet on and offf at the appropriate times.

#3685 6 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Makes total sense. Will try it out tonight.
If I do need a replacement, or just want to replace and have new magnets in there, do I just need these:
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1837

Honestly, there is no need to replace the magnets if they are working. It won't 'make them stick' better or anything.

You can test the optos and magnet by running the Magnet test. In the test, roll a ball up the spira on each side. The opto should trigger, and magnet should activate, holding the ball for one second, then release it.
You can press the two flipper buttons to fire the mini-PF magnets.

If you ball is sticking AFTER the magnet lets go, and your balls are NOT magnetized, then your magnet cores should be sanded down and re-adjusted to be flat with the PF. (And you WANT them to be flat with the PF to minimize wear! )

#3686 6 years ago

Hi guys. I saw the PAPA finals of yesterday, and noticed that powerball is not greatly equalized.

In the heyday of Williams, programmers made special ROMs for tourney. I was thinking: why there wasn't a "virtual gumball machine" system:

Keep only the powerball in the gumball, and no other balls.

When gumball is lit, and you need 2 or 1 shot to get the powerball, the right magnet catches the ball, animation and all, and release it. When it's time for the powerball, it can be released via a normal gumball cycle.

With powerball in play:

1)Gumball machine is hit: normal play

2)Powerball is locked

At the drain of the ball, lock area is emptied with flippers off to get the powerball in trough. Earned locks are still lit

3)Powerball is trough, about to be served

Powerball is sent to the gumball machine via autolauncher, the steel ball is dispensed via gumball machine, drained, and new steel ball is served in the launcher.

4)Multiball start when powerball is in trough
During the "don't touch the door" animation", balls from trough are cycled (steel balls sent to the autolauncher, shooted and waiting for drain. Powerball: in the gumball machine, steel one from it and the multiball as normal)

I think this would be optimal solution. I know it's too late for ROM changes, but was my idea too far off? Thank you

Alby

#3687 6 years ago

Quick question for Ingo clock board peeps- Does the clock HAVE to be at 12:00 to do a board swap from, say a rottendog board?

Or can it be at whatever time, and as long as you know what it was and re-assemble back to that.

I tried to install it over the weekend and it would not work. I did NOT zero it out to 12:00 though.

#3688 6 years ago
Quoted from Seatmandan:

Quick question for Ingo clock board peeps- Does the clock HAVE to be at 12:00 to do a board swap from, say a rottendog board?
Or can it be at whatever time, and as long as you know what it was and re-assemble back to that.
I tried to install it over the weekend and it would not work. I did NOT zero it out to 12:00 though.

I believe it can be done at whatever time, as long as you reassemble it exactly where it was. The clock does a self check on startup. But it's never 100% perfect - how "off" was it?

#3689 6 years ago

I am finally part of the club again! I've been gone far too long.... anywho, I picked up a game and I am having intermittent issues with the clock. The opts are all fine and working correctly, but the motor will only go forward and one speed in test. If I unseat the connectors under the playfield and restart, it will work fine for a while, then seems to go back to not working. Any thoughts?

#3690 6 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

how "off" was it?

The clock started it's self diagnostic on boot up and during the initial forward advance, it just stopped and froze, then peddled the press enter for test report deal. Game has zero credit dot, so I know it was clock broke error. It's the same thing it did to me when I got the game when the original optos on the front (minute hand) were flaking out. It's almost as if the front optos on the new board were not working/registering. I studied it and it looked as if the minute hand WAS breaking the opto planes, so I'm at a loss. I did NOT go into clock test and run that, I turned it off immediately for fear of frying something.

EDIT: after the Ingo clock board failed to work, I replaced it with my working board and it worked fine again.

#3691 6 years ago
Quoted from Seatmandan:

The clock started it's self diagnostic on boot up and during the initial forward advance, it just stopped and froze, then peddled the press enter for test report deal. Game has zero credit dot, so I know it was clock broke error. It's the same thing it did to me when I got the game when the original optos on the front (minute hand) were flaking out. It's almost as if the front optos on the new board were not working/registering. I studied it and it looked as if the minute hand WAS breaking the opto planes, so I'm at a loss. I did NOT go into clock test and run that, I turned it off immediately for fear of frying something.
EDIT: after the Ingo clock board failed to work, I replaced it with my working board and it worked fine again.

Interesting. I'd ask Ingo if there's anything you need to look out for. I find it hard to believe the board is bad but maybe the optos aren't getting a good connection?

#3692 6 years ago

Run clock test with Ingo's board. See what you get.

#3693 6 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Run clock test with Ingo's board. See what you get.

Yeah, that's my next job-

#3694 6 years ago

Had to show a few pictures of my TZ with the new black armor!

She's officially finished!

01 (resized).JPG01 (resized).JPG

02 (resized).JPG02 (resized).JPG

03 (resized).JPG03 (resized).JPG

#3695 6 years ago
Quoted from MikeHogue:

Had to show a few pictures of my TZ with the new black armor!
She's officially finished!

Love the black. I need to find someone to do it for me at a reasonable price.

#3696 6 years ago
Quoted from MikeHogue:

Had to show a few pictures of my TZ with the new black armor!
She's officially finished!

Did you restore it yourself? Looks awesome!

#3697 6 years ago

Looks good! If I were to color the metal, it'd be black.

This game *always* continues to surprise me.

On one multiball, the game was trying to load balls onto the magnets, for the 'special' release. The second ball missed the middle magnet, and got caught on the left magnet. So, the third ball was supposed to get caught on the right magnet. It missed as well - but not enough. The magnetic field caught it and started to pull it in towards it back down the spiral. However, the game's timer ended, so the magnet shut off, sending the ball shooting down the right spiral towards the flipper. Neat effect!

Later, same multiball, one ball ends up shooting down between the flippers. It happened to hit *just right* and zoom up the side, up the right outlane, then hit the post and rolled into the inlane. Awesome.

#3698 6 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Did you restore it yourself? Looks awesome!

Yep. I completely restored it myself!

Believe it or not but I picked this up for $500 a few years back. It was in five boxes of parts as the prior owner lost interest in it. I never owned a TZ before so I needed the internet to help to put it back together. Quite the puzzle.

It's got new decals, a clearcoated playfield, new translight and a plastic set. Every assembly has been rebuilt. I have just over a grand into it......... not counting my labor.

#3699 6 years ago
Quoted from MikeHogue:

Yep. I completely restored it myself!
Believe it or not but I picked this up for $500 a few years back. It was in five boxes of parts as the prior owner lost interest in it. I never owned a TZ before so I needed the internet to help to put it back together. Quite the puzzle.
It's got new decals, a clearcoated playfield, new translight and a plastic set. Every assembly has been rebuilt. I have just over a grand into it......... not counting my labor.

Cool! Nice job! Enjoy!

#3700 6 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Looks good! If I were to color the metal, it'd be black.
This game *always* continues to surprise me.
On one multiball, the game was trying to load balls onto the magnets, for the 'special' release. The second ball missed the middle magnet, and got caught on the left magnet. So, the third ball was supposed to get caught on the right magnet. It missed as well - but not enough. The magnetic field caught it and started to pull it in towards it back down the spiral. However, the game's timer ended, so the magnet shut off, sending the ball shooting down the right spiral towards the flipper. Neat effect!
Later, same multiball, one ball ends up shooting down between the flippers. It happened to hit *just right* and zoom up the side, up the right outlane, then hit the post and rolled into the inlane. Awesome.

Auto death save!

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
From: $ 55.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Pinball Photos LLC
Decorations
$ 37.50
Cabinet - Toppers
Pinball Haus
Toppers
$ 9.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
Eproms
$ 129.50
Cabinet - Decals
Pinball Haus
Decals
$ 16.00
Boards
Lermods
Boards
$ 14.95
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
ULEKstore
Toys/Add-ons
From: $ 8.00
Cabinet - Other
NO GOUGE PINBALL™
Other
$ 14.95
Playfield - Decals
Pinball Pimp
Decals
$ 259.99
Cabinet - Toppers
Lighted Pinball Mods
Toppers
$ 12.95
Playfield - Decals
Pinball Pimp
Decals
$ 54.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Lighted Pinball Mods
Shooter rods
€ 69.00
Pinball Machine
Multiball mods
Pinball Machine
$ 15.00
Playfield - Other
YouBentMyWookie
Other
$ 109.95
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
pinballmod
Toys/Add-ons
$ 250.00
Lighting - Interactive
Professor Pinball
Interactive
$ 24.00
Various Novelties
Pinball Photos LLC
Various novelties
$ 115.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
pinballmod
Toys/Add-ons
$ 90.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
pinballmod
Toys/Add-ons
Wanted
Machine - Wanted
Corona, CA
$ 115.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
pinballmod
Toys/Add-ons
From: $ 1.00
Boards
Slap Save Creations
Boards
$ 159.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Sparky Pinball
Toys/Add-ons
7,500
Machine - For Sale
West Chicago, IL
$ 10.00
Playfield - Decals
Pinball Haus
Decals
From: $ 159.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Sparky Pinball
Toys/Add-ons
$ 649.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
Led
$ 79.99
Cabinet - Armor And Blades
PinGraffix Pinside Shop
Armor and blades
$ 29.95
Playfield - Decals
Pinball Pimp
Decals
10,500 (Firm)
Machine - For Sale
Brooklyn Park, MN
Hey modders!
Your shop name here
There are 15,099 posts in this topic. You are on page 74 of 302.

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/twilight-zone-owners-club/page/74 and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.