Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Yep, 3 holes all around...
From the back of the machine, measuring from the bottom of the cabinet, to the center of my lowest bolt, it's roughly 2.5".
Is there a third hole lower than that?
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Yep, 3 holes all around...
From the back of the machine, measuring from the bottom of the cabinet, to the center of my lowest bolt, it's roughly 2.5".
Is there a third hole lower than that?
Quoted from Damien:Looks like they sell all 4 legs at 28.5" for TZ:
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=140
Interesting. Would like to hear from other TZ owners on this. My TZ (again,v early sample) came with short and long legs, 2 of each. (With three mounting holes in cabinet..) I wonder if that was intended, or another design change..
Quoted from Coyote:Would like to hear from other TZ owners on this.
Standard BW legs all the way around on mine. Bought from Pinball Life when I restored it. 6.5 degree PF with the rear Levelers extended all the way and the fronts bottomed out
I attached a pic to show their positioning
Quoted from Seatmandan:6.5 degree PF with the rear Levelers extended all the way and the fronts bottomed out
Same here.
Three leg holes. Use the bottom two leg holes front and rear.
Would it make sense to use the 2 lowest holes on the back, and the two highest holes on the front to bring the front down and increase slant?
Quoted from Damien:Would it make sense to use the 2 lowest holes on the back, and the two highest holes on the front to bring the front down and increase slant?
You can, yeah. Not a problem in the least.
Interesting that others have the same legs on front and back. I'm curious to hear from another sample owner to see if theirs is the same. I guess it's possible that in the moving of my games, I got legs mixed up..! But, hard to say..
Quoted from Damien:Would it make sense to use the 2 lowest holes on the back, and the two highest holes on the front to bring the front down and increase slant?
I may actually need to do the same thing, though this is mainly because the game is in a section of my garage where the floor is slanting towards the garage door. I didnt even think of this as an option, heh. thnx!
Standard legs and casters , 28.5 all way around on mine... game is a 7.0 and still have lots room to move mine higher if i want. Im usiing the lowest set of holes all way around ...
Quoted from bigd1979:I believe im using the middle set of holes all way around ...
Quoted from Coyote:Thanks for the measurements!
Since there are only three holes, and the legs use two, you will ALWAYS be using the 'middle' hole. It is whether the other bolt is in the top or lower hole.
Was editing but u were to fast lol....
Question about the photo above. The metal protectors shown are screwed into the cabinet. If I want to move them up a notch, I would have to screw new holes to mount it. I'd prefer not to do this. Is there another option? Can I use rubber/plastic protectors, or something else that doesn't need to be screwed in?
And before I get deeper into this, does it make sense that the back legs could be on the bottom top holes, and the front on the top two holes? It clearly raises the legs up in the front to create a greater slant angle, but does having the front and back legs in different hole positions create any issues?
Thanks
I would raise the front legs and try that. You should also cut and peel the cabinet decals from behind the spacers.
All the legs on my TZ are the same length and I am pretty sure there are only two holes for each, I did not take a leg off but looked inside of the cabinet at the plate that the bolts go into and only saw 2 spots that bolts thread in. Are there others that have only one option for the legs? I might have to take a leg off to check but you would think you would be able to see the three bolt location from inside the cabinet.
Quoted from arcadenerd925:I may actually need to do the same thing, though this is mainly because the game is in a section of my garage where the floor is slanting towards the garage door. I didnt even think of this as an option, heh. thnx!
Can you let me know if it works out. I just went to do it and noticed one of the leg levellers is stripped, so now I need to replace it.
I'm just curious to know if the machine becomes lopsided at all if we go on the bottom setting in the rear, and top setting in the front.
About to buy some legs. The ones I have now sort of match the silver trim on the machine.
Do you guys think this would be a good fit:
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=4128
And then for the protectors, most of what I read suggests that we should use metal protectors.
However, I was looking at PinCab protectors, and I really like that I would not have to drill additional holes.
Does anyone know if we can use these on our cabinets:
Quoted from Damien:About to buy some legs. The ones I have now sort of match the silver trim on the machine.
Do you guys think this would be a good fit:
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=4128
And then for the protectors, most of what I read suggests that we should use metal protectors.
However, I was looking at PinCab protectors, and I really like that I would not have to drill additional holes.
Does anyone know if we can use these on our cabinets:
http://pinballfanatic.com/products/pincab-protectors/
If you are trying to match the original legs, you probably want the ribbed legs: http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=140. I've purchased countless sets of these Pinball Life legs. You linked the non-ribbed legs.
Those plastic protectors (which cover beyond what the legs cover) are generally used when you need to cover up existing damage, but most people find that it does not prevent further damage since nudging will simply cause the plastic to move around, further damaging the decal. The metal protectors work by isolating the leg movement from the decal.
Quoted from nosro:If you are trying to match the original legs, you probably want the ribbed legs: http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=140. I've purchased countless sets of these Pinball Life legs. You linked the non-ribbed legs.
Those plastic protectors (which cover beyond what the legs cover) are generally used when you need to cover up existing damage, but most people find that it does not prevent further damage since nudging will simply cause the plastic to move around, further damaging the decal. The metal protectors work by isolating the leg movement from the decal.
Thanks! Appreciate the reply!
So before I buy these, can anyone confirm that it is possible to put the rear legs in the lowest position, and the front legs in the highest position?
It makes sense to me, to give me more of a slant, but just wanted to make sure it's doable.
Thanks
Quoted from Coyote:Interesting that others have the same legs on front and back. I'm curious to hear from another sample owner to see if theirs is the same. I guess it's possible that in the moving of my games, I got legs mixed up..! But, hard to say..
I seem to remember reading SOMEWHERE (the internets a big place!) about TZ sample games having the odd leg lengths. I'm really surprised you're not 100% on this one Coyote, you know everything about this game!!
Quoted from TZpinboter:All the legs on my TZ are the same length and I am pretty sure there are only two holes for each
Mine has 3 holes for each leg and large bolt plates with 3 holes that can be seen from inside. Maybe your bolt plates were worn and swapped with standard ones or maybe your cab was swapped and decaled.
Still no one chiming in on this hahaha!
"can anyone confirm that it is possible to put the rear legs in the lowest position, and the front legs in the highest position?
It makes sense to me, to give me more of a slant, but just wanted to make sure it's doable."
Anyone??????????
Quoted from Damien:Still no one chiming in on this hahaha!
"can anyone confirm that it is possible to put the rear legs in the lowest position, and the front legs in the highest position?
It makes sense to me, to give me more of a slant, but just wanted to make sure it's doable."
Anyone??????????
Two people, including myself, already said to go for it:
Quoted from Coyote:You can, yeah. Not a problem in the least.
Quoted from fiberdude120:I would raise the front legs and try that.
.. Go for it, sheesh.
Quoted from Seatmandan:I seem to remember reading SOMEWHERE (the internets a big place!) about TZ sample games having the odd leg lengths. I'm really surprised you're not 100% on this one Coyote, you know everything about this game!!
I'll admit - I have moved my game a lot of times, along with other games. It's entirely possible that in a move, legs from the games got mixed up. So, I can't rightfully say that I know 100%. I know, I know.. I'm not perfect!
A previous owner used the top holes on my game and it caused decal wrinkling. I would not use those top holes if you ever plan to again use the lower two holes.
Quoted from Neal_W:Mine has 3 holes for each leg and large bolt plates with 3 holes that can be seen from inside. Maybe your bolt plates were worn and swapped with standard ones or maybe your cab was swapped and decaled.
Mine is an Original TZ cab (NOT sample or prototype) and has the 3-hole threaded plates as well
Mine is a sample, and also has 3 holes cut. I had the legs installed in the wrong legs initially and could never get the pitch right. I think this is my only game that still has the legs it came (to me) with. Standard w/bs.
You should be able to get fairly close by adjusting which holes you're installing in, but you'll have to test to see!
Quoted from nosro:By the way, does anyone know where to find replacements for the 3-hole plates?
When I restored my game, I couldn't find them anywhere; I had a couple stripped, so I had to buy 2-hole plates. If you find them made someone, please let me know.
Quoted from Coyote:Two people, including myself, already said to go for it:
Ooooops, was looking at this one my phone and somehow missed those.
Was just at my local pinball shop, and the guy there mentioned I could get 31" legs to raise the back more, rather than raising the front legs and running the risk of extra decal damage.
He had a set of Gottlieb legs that he said would fit. Does anyone know if the B/W chrome ribbed legs come in a longer than 28.5" size?
Thanks
This thread reminds me of people putting stronger flipper coils in their games when the real solution is to rebuild the flippers. If you have 28.5" legs all around, in the bottom two holes all around, you should be good to go. If you aren't, your floor isn't level.
Quoted from johninc:This thread reminds me of people putting stronger flipper coils in their games when the real solution is to rebuild the flippers. If you have 28.5" legs all around, in the bottom two holes all around, you should be good to go. If you aren't, your floor isn't level.
Some people (like myself) like steeper games. Don't like balls 'floating' around the playfield. And sometimes, then the standard holes won't cut it.
Quoted from johninc:This thread reminds me of people putting stronger flipper coils in their games when the real solution is to rebuild the flippers. If you have 28.5" legs all around, in the bottom two holes all around, you should be good to go. If you aren't, your floor isn't level.
My floor definitely isn't level, but that's a whole separate issue.
Using a digital level, the floor appears to slope by about 1 degree. Not sure why that is causing the game to be so losing the back, but it is.
So, now I have to work with what I've got.
Does anyone know where to get legs for this machine longer than 28.5"?
Quoted from Damien:My floor definitely isn't level, but that's a whole separate issue.
Using a digital level, the floor appears to slope by about 1 degree. Not sure why that is causing the game to be so losing the back, but it is.
So, now I have to work with what I've got.
Does anyone know where to get legs for this machine longer than 28.5"?
How long is the shaft on your leg levelers? 2" or 3"?
I had to put 3" leg levers on the back of mine due to my wonky garage floor slope.
Quoted from arcadenerd925:How long is the shaft on your leg levelers? 2" or 3"?
I had to put 3" leg levers on the back of mine due to my wonky garage floor slope.
3" and they're extended almost all the way up to get me at 6.5 degrees.
I'd settle with that except for the fact that it is now very wobbly in the back.
Quoted from AlexSMendes:OK - To end this discussion: these are the best TZ legs ou can get. PERIOD.
Are they longer than 28.5"
Quoted from Damien:Would 31" Gottlieb legs fit properly?
Yes, the ones on mine are 31 inch. They work, but after reading these comments I realized they're the wrong legs. The downside to the longer legs is that you'll have to mount them on the top 2 holes (possibly resulting in art damage unless protected, as others have noted), and your machine will likely look slightly too tall if it's side by side with other machines. Mine's next to a Theatre and the height at the rails/top of backbox is about an inch higher than it should be. The 31 inch legs also give it a slightly wider footprint on the floor.
Rocket kicker question: Where should the rocket kicker send the ball? Into the upper flipper/camera hole or into the hitchhiker loop/pops? Mine usually hits the rubber post inbetween these two areas. Any way to adjust this mech so it puts the ball somewhere consistently or is it supposed to be random?
Quoted from canea:Rocket kicker question: Where should the rocket kicker send the ball? Into the upper flipper/camera hole or into the hitchhiker loop/pops? Mine usually hits the rubber post inbetween these two areas. Any way to adjust this mech so it puts the ball somewhere consistently or is it supposed to be random?
Hitchhiker. The bottom (towards player) metal guide can be adjusted.
Quoted from lyonsden:I have a sample and all the legs are the same length. 28.5"
Thanks for checking. While I too have a faint memory of the game coming with different sized legs.. I'm well aware that my memory is too fuzzy to trust it. I'm old.
Quoted from Coyote:Hitchhiker. The bottom (towards player) metal guide can be adjusted.
Great, thanks! Easy fix.
Quoted from canea:Yes, the ones on mine are 31 inch. They work, but after reading these comments I realized they're the wrong legs. The downside to the longer legs is that you'll have to mount them on the top 2 holes (possibly resulting in art damage unless protected, as others have noted), and your machine will likely look slightly too tall if it's side by side with other machines. Mine's next to a Theatre and the height at the rails/top of backbox is about an inch higher than it should be. The 31 inch legs also give it a slightly wider footprint on the floor.
What do you mean by you realized they were the wrong ones based on comments. I didn't see anything suggesting that.
Also, curious as to why you would need to use the top two holes for thew longer legs? Couldn't you just use the bottom ones? What would the difference be?
I figure that I have my levellers extended by 2.5-3" now, so using a 31" leg would essentially be the exact same height without extending the levellers at all ad getting more sturdiness from that too.
Quoted from Damien:What do you mean by you realized they were the wrong ones based on comments. I didn't see anything suggesting that.
Also, curious as to why you would need to use the top two holes for thew longer legs? Couldn't you just use the bottom ones? What would the difference be? I have a metal protector on the bottom two holes now, and would just love that on too.
I figure that I have my levellers extended by 2.5-3" now, so using a 31" leg would essentially be the exact same height without extending the levellers at all ad getting more sturdiness from that too.
On another subject, does anyone know where to get replacements for the bulb condoms, like the red one on the gumball ramp sign?
Quoted from lyonsden:I have a sample and all the legs are the same length. 28.5"
For some reason, I think I remember reading that the sample games were normalized, but the PROTOTYPE games had the different length legs...
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