(Topic ID: 63352)

Twilight Zone Owner's club

By Caucasian2Step

10 years ago


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There are 15,076 posts in this topic. You are on page 69 of 302.
#3401 7 years ago
Quoted from alistaircg:

I personally put Ghosting bulbs into my machine on purpose

You can also do that, less expensive and very good looking as well. You can then use the same 2 smd bulbs.

I put some regular 2 smd left over bulbs on mine for inserts and looks good.

#3402 7 years ago
Quoted from No_Skill:

Trust me, you won't get it perfect on the first try, so don't overthink it and just jump in.

This. If you are unwilling to experiment and just want to be done, the only real option is to put a a good warm frosted LED everywhere.

#3403 7 years ago
Quoted from nosro:

This. If you are unwilling to experiment and just want to be done, the only real option is to put a a good warm frosted LED everywhere.

Or, you know, if you want your game to appear factory-fresh and not look like Technicolor puked in parts.

#3405 7 years ago

I was looking at some stuff on Youtube, and the suggestion was to color match the areas you're upgrading. So is the item is blue on the playfield, you'd want to use a blue LED?

Make any sense?

Also, is it better to go with superbrights like these:

http://cointaker.com/products/555-super
http://cointaker.com/products/44-47-super

Or these:

http://cointaker.com/products/44-47-frosted
http://cointaker.com/products/555-frosted

#3406 7 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Any suggestions on site to buy from, and is there a list of the types of bulbs I will need?
Do you suggest doing it bit by bit (for example, doing the door lights on the play field, and then moving on to another part?)
Again, I'm totally new to the hobby, not the most technically inclined, but I'm willing and happy to learn.
Thank you all so much. Hoping to be part of the TZ crew soon

www.cometpinball.com

#3407 7 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

I was looking at some stuff on Youtube, and the suggestion was to color match the areas you're upgrading. So is the item is blue on the playfield, you'd want to use a blue LED?
Make any sense?
Also, is it better to go with superbrights like these:
http://cointaker.com/products/555-super
http://cointaker.com/products/44-47-super
Or these:
http://cointaker.com/products/44-47-frosted
http://cointaker.com/products/555-frosted

There is not one answer. Personal preferences are at play. Some people like to color match, some like very bright lighting, some are sensitive to flicker, some prefer cool lighting. Myself, I prefer a stock look with warm white frosted LEDs everywhere.

Buy an assortment and start experimenting.

#3408 7 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

I was looking at some stuff on Youtube, and the suggestion was to color match the areas you're upgrading. So is the item is blue on the playfield, you'd want to use a blue LED?
Make any sense?
Also, is it better to go with superbrights like these:
http://cointaker.com/products/555-super
http://cointaker.com/products/44-47-super
Or these:
http://cointaker.com/products/44-47-frosted
http://cointaker.com/products/555-frosted

If you mean to color match the inserts, then definitely. It brings a vibrancy to the insert lighting that an incandescent (or white LED) takes away from. If you're talking about GI lighting under plastics, not as much. Plastics, even when mainly one color, typically have multiple colors in the artwork. Using colored LEDs in these places (especially blue, red, green) really washes out the area and makes it look one color (thus the term color-bombing) which typically does not look good.

#3409 7 years ago
Quoted from Deadpin:

So suddenly these 4 lights under the plastic have decided to stop lighting. Everything else is working as normal. Any thoughts on what to check 1st?

I checked the fuses on this problem. They tested good. What fuse? What was the fix? The wires are fine. Please help.

#3410 7 years ago
Quoted from tonyf1965:

I checked the fuses on this problem. They tested good. What fuse? What was the fix? The wires are fine. Please help.

Fuse wouldn't be the issue, or the ENTIRE left side would be out.
Look under the playfield. Find the GI wires for that side, and check the sockets. Make sure all the wires are soldered on.

#3411 7 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Fuse wouldn't be the issue, or the ENTIRE left side would be out.
Look under the playfield. Find the GI wires for that side, and check the sockets. Make sure all the wires are soldered on.

The way all of these GI lights are daisy chained together - if one goes out do the rest stay lit?

#3412 7 years ago
Quoted from Deadpin:

The way all of these GI lights are daisy chained together - if one goes out do the rest stay lit?

The GI-strings are wired this way - hope, that helps.

WPC-GI (2) (resized).jpgWPC-GI (2) (resized).jpg

#3414 7 years ago
Quoted from german-pinball:

The GI-strings are wired this way - hope, that helps.

Quoted from Deadpin:

The way all of these GI lights are daisy chained together - if one goes out do the rest stay lit?

Correct. They're wired in parallel, not series. One goes out, one goes out. The rest stay lit. So, you have a broken wire there somewhere.

#3415 7 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Is it just pulling out the incandescent and replacing with the LEDs?

Quoted from No_Skill:

If you can raise the playfield and operate a nutdriver, you're good to go.

Yes,and without dropping any hex screws in the process.

#3416 7 years ago

How do i plug something into the GI ? where do I plug it in, how do I get a metre reading, which is common and which is live ?

Is the metal on the rails common for instance ?

Very newbie question I know, but the newbie shoe fits for me

#3417 7 years ago

I found the starting point of somewhere of my issues. Yes the right side all gi lighting out. Just didn't know. Power board had j120 and j121 swapped. Then when it smoked previous owner tried moving the burnt wire to another connector trying to get power. I just bought this machine. Hope to get it running. 1 issue at a time.

IMG_20170321_215137388_HDR (resized).jpgIMG_20170321_215137388_HDR (resized).jpg

#3418 7 years ago

Looks like you found the problem. In your photo, your plugs are in the right location according to the manual. you need a new connector for J121. Brown, return to PF (Pin 1) is melted off!

Replace Plug connector, re-attach wire and you should be in business

J120-J121 (resized).JPGJ120-J121 (resized).JPG

disconnected wire (resized).JPGdisconnected wire (resized).JPG

#3419 7 years ago

Note that J121 and J120 are identical on the board side, so those two plugs can be interchanged without issue.

#3420 7 years ago

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/twilight-zone-a-variety-of-troubleshooting

Didn't want to clog this thread, but can any of you swing by my TZ-related thread to lend some advice?

For those of you who've already stopped by, thanks for your time.

#3421 7 years ago

Yes, and thanks. They look so close. It was confusing to troubleshoot. The brown wire that was supposed to be in connector 121 pin 1. I suppose after it burned up. They moved it to connector 120 pin 1. Which is a not used pin. This machine is loaded with problems. Only going to tackle one at a time.

#3422 7 years ago
Quoted from tonyf1965:

This machine is loaded with problems.

Please don't hesitate to share! Maybe we can all help out in some way!

-Dan

#3423 7 years ago
Quoted from Seatmandan:

Please don't hesitate to share! Maybe we can all help out in some way!
-Dan

Hey Dan,

Have you happen to take a look at my thread I posted above in #3420?

#3424 7 years ago

Looking for any feedback and reviews of the Rottendog WDB008 replacement board for the 8-Driver PCB Assembly (A-16100).

I read the description (http://rottendog.us/WDB008.html), and see that they modified the design slightly, and looking at the picture, confirmed that the changes were to simplify (remove) some of the smaller jumpers/transistors.

Has anyone swapped out their board, and/or have any experience with the performance of the new one? How would its simplified design affect future troubleshooting and diagnosis with the removal of some of the smaller transistors?

Any feedback would be appreciated!

Thanks

#3425 7 years ago

Well my clock is finally broken again. I now have no excuse to not install Ingo's clock board which has been sitting in my toolbox for about the last 6 months, lol. Will post If I have any issues/questions.

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#3426 7 years ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

Well my clock is finally broken again. I now have no excuse to not install Ingo's clock board which has been sitting in my toolbox for about the last 6 months, lol. Will post If I have any issues/questions.

Ditto. I'll be tackling it either this weekend or next weekend. We'll see who is first to stumble into a question.

I did notice that the PDF download instructions are newer than the website html instructions. PDF link is here: http://www.german-pinball-modular.de/get_file.php?id=28051417&vnr=108585

#3427 7 years ago
Quoted from DruTheFu:

Have you happen to take a look at my thread I posted above in #3420?

I took a peek, seems like a lot of great pinheads already pointed you in the right direction! seems to me that all your locked on flashers are board related, the upper RH switch is probably dead and needs to be replaced, and as far as your LEDs fluttering, that's normal unless you buy LED OCD boards from Pinsider Herg and install them.

#3428 7 years ago
Quoted from Seatmandan:

I took a peek, seems like a lot of great pinheads already pointed you in the right direction! seems to me that all your locked on flashers are board related, the upper RH switch is probably dead and needs to be replaced, and as far as your LEDs fluttering, that's normal unless you buy LED OCD boards from Pinsider Herg and install them.

Thanks for taking the time to check in. I'm reading what people have replied with, and following up the suggestions.

I'm strongly considering spending the $42 for the Rottendog replacement A-16100 8-Driver PCB board to hopefully address the locked on flashers.
Also going to replace the Left Ramp switch with a new one.

As for the lamp issue, the issue is not that the lamps are fluttering (forgot to mention they are not fluttering), it's that when running through the "Single Lamps" (T.8) test for individual lamps, additional lamps are turning on when they are not the lamps being selected. For example, when I select Lamp 75 "Power Payoff" to test, not only does lamp 75 light up as it should, but lamps 84 (Piano Red) and 85 (Slot Machine) also light up, when they should not. I'll be updating my thread with a more current Lamp Matrix findings table that I updated after additional troubleshooting took place last night.

Thanks again for everyone's time and assistance.

#3429 7 years ago
Quoted from DruTheFu:

As for the lamp issue, the issue is not that the lamps are fluttering (forgot to mention they are not fluttering), it's that when running through the "Single Lamps" (T.8) test for individual lamps, additional lamps are turning on when they are not the lamps being selected. For example, when I select Lamp 75 "Power Payoff" to test, not only does lamp 75 light up as it should, but lamps 84 (Piano Red) and 85 (Slot Machine) also light up, when they should not. I'll be updating my thread with a more current Lamp Matrix findings table that I updated after additional troubleshooting took place last night

I'm no expert on that- but to me, it sounds like lamp matrix issues which I believe are CPU board related. There are usual checks for that- re-seat all ribbon cables & connectors, re-seat (push in) all chips, etc. Is there any repair work/corrosion on the CPU under the battery holder spot? If so, that could be related.

#3430 7 years ago
Quoted from DruTheFu:

'm strongly considering spending the $42 for the Rottendog replacement A-16100 8-Driver PCB board to hopefully address the locked on flashers.

I think these rottendog boards are good replacements, and, if for no other reason, good surrogates to use while sending out the original boards. I own a Power Driver board myself for a back-up

#3431 7 years ago
Quoted from Seatmandan:

I'm no expert on that- but to me, it sounds like lamp matrix issues which I believe are CPU board related. There are usual checks for that- re-seat all ribbon cables & connectors, re-seat (push in) all chips, etc. Is there any repair work/corrosion on the CPU under the battery holder spot? If so, that could be related.

Funny you mention the CPU board, as my neighbor and fellow TZ owner mentioned this last night as well. He/we removed all cable and ribbon connections from the CPU board, pushed wires back into the cheap punch down connectors, and reconnected to verify they were indeed connected to the CPU board correctly. Doing this had an effect on the Lamp Matrix findings (posted in sub-thread). I didn't think the re-seat and of the chips, and the battery holder was removed from the board by a previous owner, and there is no damage to the board from the battery acid leakage.

Another idea we are going to try is for him to bring his known working TZ CPU board over and we're going to see how this affects the findings.

#3432 7 years ago
Quoted from DruTheFu:

Another idea we are going to try is for him to bring his known working TZ CPU board over and we're going to see how this affects the findings.

If you can get to the point where you can identify that the issue is on the board, there are several reputable board repair places that you can mail your board to.

For smaller boards, Rottendog replacements are probably cheaper than getting a repair if that's your only problem. On the other hand, if you are getting a large board repaired, it's pretty cost effective to throw in a smaller board for repair.

#3433 7 years ago

Out of curiosity, does anyone know what a TZ was selling for back in 1993?

#3434 7 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Out of curiosity, does anyone know what a TZ was selling for back in 1993?

I seem to remember read $2500 USD somewhere

#3435 7 years ago

Got a present in the mail today... Now I can install my OCD boards! Thanks Ingo!

IMG_9729 (resized).JPGIMG_9729 (resized).JPG

#3436 7 years ago

Has anyone installed star post LEDs on the mini-playfield? I am getting ready to install the GLM mini-playfield switch kit, but the star posts I have are 5v and not the 20v versions they describe how to install. This bring up a question of whether to have the star posts lit all the time via GI or get new ones that will only light when the mini-playfield bumper switches are hit. I think the flashing effect would be cool, but maybe it's better to have them lit all the time?

If the thought is flashing would be cooler, are standard 2-lead 5v LEDs (got them from Pinball Decals) compatible with the GLM mod, or do I need their LEDs that draw power from a 3rd lead on the LED?

If it matters, I have blue star post LEDs that go under blue star posts.

Thanks for any opinions.

#3437 7 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Out of curiosity, does anyone know what a TZ was selling for back in 1993?

The arcade I was working for paid $1500 for ours.
*HOWEVER* - That was including the test-site discount. I'm not sure how much we would have paid without it...

#3438 7 years ago

OK, mystery part time. This just dropped out from underneath my playfield, maybe from near the slot scoop, unsure. TZ part or random junk?

photo (resized).JPGphoto (resized).JPG

#3439 7 years ago

Random junk. There's nothing on the game that has an end that matches that.

#3440 7 years ago

Ha, awesome, thanks. It's a new game to me so wasn't 100% sure. Glad that didn't short something out.

#3441 7 years ago

I'd like to buy a TZ flyer... is anyone selling?

#3442 7 years ago

Got my TZ today!!! I'm officially in the club!

Only issue now is that in order to get to 6.5 degrees on the slant, I have to screw the front casters at the way in (lowest point) and raise the read casters all the way up (highest point) and still I'm at like 6.3 degress!

I don't like the way it feel, because the casters are raised so high, that there is a wobble to it.
Is there something wrong with my floors? The previous owner had it set about half way in the back, and quarter way in the front to get 6.5 degrees.

On my MMr, the back legs and front legs are screwed all the way in (lowest point) and that comes in at about 7 degrees, which I like for that game.

HELP!

#3443 7 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Got my TZ today!!! I'm officially in the club!
Only issue now is that in order to get to 6.5 degrees on the slant, I have to screw the front casters at the way in (lowest point) and raise the read casters all the way up (highest point) and still I'm at like 6.3 degress!
I don't like the way it feel, because the casters are raised so high, that there is a wobble to it.
Is there something wrong with my floors? The previous owner had it set about half way in the back, and quarter way in the front to get 6.5 degrees.
On my MMr, the back legs and front legs are screwed all the way in (lowest point) and that comes in at about 7 degrees, which I like for that game.
HELP!

Check that the longer legs are on the back, and the shorter ones are on the front.

#3444 7 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

On my MMr, the back legs and front legs are screwed all the way in (lowest point) and that comes in at about 7 degrees, which I like for that game.
HELP!

The best I could get on mine with front all the way down and back all the way up was 6 degrees. I had to swap out the back levelers for 3 inch ones and then I could get to 6.5 degrees. My floor slopes down in the back though. Make sure the legs are all in the right cabinet holes, too.

#3445 7 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Got my TZ today!!! I'm officially in the club!
Only issue now is that in order to get to 6.5 degrees on the slant, I have to screw the front casters at the way in (lowest point) and raise the read casters all the way up (highest point) and still I'm at like 6.3 degress!
I don't like the way it feel, because the casters are raised so high, that there is a wobble to it.
Is there something wrong with my floors? The previous owner had it set about half way in the back, and quarter way in the front to get 6.5 degrees.
On my MMr, the back legs and front legs are screwed all the way in (lowest point) and that comes in at about 7 degrees, which I like for that game.
HELP!

This happened to me when I got mine - turns out the wrong legs were installed AND they were in the wrong holes. Check your leg length and make sure you have proper length B/W legs and that they are in the right cab holes. Good luck, enjoy the best pin ever!

#3446 7 years ago

Hnmmmm....

What should the leg length be in the front and back?

As for the holes... There are 3? As in, you could set it in a higher or lower position?

Thank you all

#3447 7 years ago

Looks like they sell all 4 legs at 28.5" for TZ:

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=140

#3448 7 years ago

One more thing... I change the date and time in the menu, but as soon as I turn the machine off and back on, it resets it to: 3:17pm April 27, 2017

My machine is Rev 9.4 CH

Thanks

#3449 7 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

One more thing... I change the date and time in the menu, but as soon as I turn the machine off and back on, it resets it to: 3:17pm April 27, 2017
My machine is Rev 9.4 CH
Thanks

DISREGARD! I read that the NVRAM does not store date/time.

Back to the other problem... Can anyone help me figure out how to level my pin without extending the leg levelers fully on the back legs.

Checked the legs and they're 28.5" all around.

Did all TZ machines come with 3 holes in the back? Would like to know before I pull this machine out from the wall again and get it up on chairs.

Thanks

#3450 7 years ago

Yep, 3 holes all around...

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