Twilight Zone Owner's club

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By Caucasian2Step

3 years ago


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  • Latest reply 38 minutes ago by LitzDoc

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There are 3283 posts in topic. You are on page 66 of 66.
#3251 5 days ago
Quoted from TRAMD:

I am new to collecting (less than a year) but have fallen in love with TZ. It is a close second to WOZ for my favorite pin and I own two; an all original in great condition and a heavily modded with LEDs, color DMD and tons of extras and refinishes. This an amazing game!
I am thinking about powder coating all of the metal on my modded version with dark blue base and black powder!

You chose well. TZ is the best pin by far. I have owned it twice. I got rid of it a few years back and then missed it a lot. I bought it back and now it will never leave. I am starting to add LEDs. I have always liked the retro incandescents but I think I want to see how the machine looks with LEDs.

Thanks for all the input from all the TZ owners.

#3252 4 days ago

Hey all. I've just replaced my proximity board as I was getting an error and a tech buddy of mine just couldn't get it working.

So, new board is installed, flip the game on, and it would appear to me there is no power getting to the board 'cause the LED is not lighting up. Whoever owned the pin before me, must have cut off the molex for the two pin connector, because the wires are soldered directly onto the pins coming off the board. I resoldered them on. Could someone confirm that they are actually going to the correct pins. If you can't tell from the pic, the red wire is soldered to the left pin.

Failing this, any suggestions? Thanks!

proximity (resized).JPG

#3253 4 days ago

It's ben a while since I've had to deal with trough issues, but I think the LED only comes on when a steel ball is in place. Have you tried that yet? Just put a ball as close to that sensor coil as possible in switch edge test and you'll get your answer.

#3254 4 days ago

It does not matter which wire (red, black) goes on which pin. This is because the board measures the inductance coming from the sensor - it's not directional. So, it's something else, then.

#3255 4 days ago

Also, since I've had a couple PM's about it, I'm the one that drew that prototype clock face. I watermarked it and cranked down the resolution, too. I'm fairly confident as to its accuracy, even though I'm only working from VHS video stills and blurry photographs. But it still could be slightly off somewhere.

I did it more for novelty than anything else since the code for this setup was never really completed and only whitewoods exist(and hopefully still do somewhere) that were going to actually use this feature. If someone has a TZ whitewood and needs this decal for their clock, I'll definitely be happy to send you one for free, once I get mine made. But you have to send me a lot of pictures in trade!

#3256 4 days ago

OK, success. Kind of sort of.

It's detecting the metal balls, but is thinking they're the Powerball. I know I'm probably a dumbass and missing something simple.

#3257 4 days ago
Quoted from Coyote:

I went with warm white in all (save for my green LOCK insert..)

Curious about this as I am partial to green lock inserts... Isn't the actual insert tinted orange? Does the green still look good?

#3258 4 days ago
Quoted from Bigbossfan:

OK, success. Kind of sort of.
It's detecting the metal balls, but is thinking they're the Powerball. I know I'm probably a dumbass and missing something simple.

Go into switch test, and check the status of the switch #26. It should be Active "(A)" when the LED is on, and deactive when the LED is off.

Quoted from Maken:

Curious about this as I am partial to green lock inserts... Isn't the actual insert tinted orange? Does the green still look good?

My game has a green insert there, so yeah, it looks good. I'm not sure how a green LED would look behind an orange insert.

#3259 3 days ago
Quoted from Coyote:

My game has a green insert there, so yeah, it looks good. I'm not sure how a green LED would look behind an orange insert.

Did not know that TZ came with green or orange depending on when it was made.

#3260 3 days ago
Quoted from Maken:

Did not know that TZ came with green or orange depending on when it was made.

Oh heck yeah. Check out this thread:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/sample-tz

#3261 3 days ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Oh heck yeah. Check out this thread:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/sample-tz

Nice Coyote,
you have encyclopedic knowledge about TZ. My TZ has the Green lock insert and the third magnet. Unfortunately the 3rd magnet is wired but doesn't work right now. I have not had time to chase the wires around. There is a lot of stuff in the upper right corner of the PF.

#3262 3 days ago
Quoted from LitzDoc:

Nice Coyote,
you have encyclopedic knowledge about TZ. My TZ has the Green lock insert and the third magnet. Unfortunately the 3rd magnet is wired but doesn't work right now. I have not had time to chase the wires around. There is a lot of stuff in the upper right corner of the PF.

Yeah, that area is very, very crowded with wires and mechs. In theory, assuming you have an opto board capable, you just need to wire in two optos. (Assuming the magnet is already wired up..)

#3263 3 days ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Yeah, that area is very, very crowded with wires and mechs. In theory, assuming you have an opto board capable, you just need to wire in two optos. (Assuming the magnet is already wired up..)

Yes I found the opto board. It is a new replacement and has the pins for the 3rd magnet. I think the magnet is wired up as I see wires coming from it. I just need to track it down now. Easier said than done. I will give it a try this weekend.

#3264 3 days ago
Quoted from LitzDoc:

Yes I found the opto board. It is a new replacement and has the pins for the 3rd magnet. I think the magnet is wired up as I see wires coming from it. I just need to track it down now. Easier said than done. I will give it a try this weekend.

Do the 1-board opto boards have room for additional optos?

#3265 3 days ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Go into switch test, and check the status of the switch #26. It should be Active "(A)" when the LED is on, and deactive when the LED is off.

@coyote

Frigging around with this issue a little bit more.

1. Did as you suggested. I don't get an Active, I get it's "Open". (This is with and without balls in the trough!) Pic attached.
2. When I put a steel ball in the trough, LED comes on. When I put the ceramic ball, it does not come on (which I assume is supposed to happen?).
3. Start a game, still recognizing all balls as a Powerball.

I'm at my wits end and seriously drawing a blank.

#3266 3 days ago

Out of curiosity, are these lights still available? I may try to get more made if they aren't.

streetsign3 (resized).jpg

#3267 3 days ago
Quoted from Bigbossfan:

coyote
Frigging around with this issue a little bit more.
1. Did as you suggested. I don't get an Active, I get it's "Open". (This is with and without balls in the trough!) Pic attached.
2. When I put a steel ball in the trough, LED comes on. When I put the ceramic ball, it does not come on (which I assume is supposed to happen?).
3. Start a game, still recognizing all balls as a Powerball.
I'm at my wits end and seriously drawing a blank.

Okay, then that's your problem. The board is recognizing metal balls. But the switch isn't getting closed. This could be due to:
(1) A broken switch matrix wire somewhere on the playfield,
(2) A loose wire on the plug that plugs into the trough prox board,
(3) Wires in the plug that plugs into the trough prox board are in the wrong pins, or
(4) The board itself is bad and not closing the switch.

Likely, it's #2 there. Check, or re-pin your plug. After that, check that shorting the two matrix wires on the plug activates the switch. (If not, then it's #1). If it does, then something is wrong with the sensor board.

Quoted from lyonsden:

Out of curiosity, are these lights still available? I may try to get more made if they aren't.

I haven't seen them for sale in a long long time. I have one on mine, but it has a blue insert in it; not reddish like that.

#3268 3 days ago
Quoted from Coyote:

I haven't seen them for sale in a long long time. I have one on mine, but it has a blue insert in it; not reddish like that.

I really like them and haven't seen them for sale. I checked with the machine shop at my university (fabricates everything from lab equipment to pieces for the mars rovers), they said they they could do it, and they said they take personal credit cards. If anyone is interested in one, just send me a PM. No obligation, just getting a head count.

#3269 2 days ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Okay, then that's your problem. The board is recognizing metal balls. But the switch isn't getting closed. This could be due to:
(1) A broken switch matrix wire somewhere on the playfield,
(2) A loose wire on the plug that plugs into the trough prox board,
(3) Wires in the plug that plugs into the trough prox board are in the wrong pins, or
(4) The board itself is bad and not closing the switch.
Likely, it's #2 there. Check, or re-pin your plug. After that, check that shorting the two matrix wires on the plug activates the switch. (If not, then it's #1). If it does, then something is wrong with the sensor board.

Thanks Coyote. That kind of repair is over my comfort zone. Guess I'll have to get my tech in!

#3270 2 days ago
Quoted from lyonsden:

I really like them and haven't seen them for sale. I checked with the machine shop at my university (fabricates everything from lab equipment to pieces for the mars rovers), they said they they could do it, and they said they take personal credit cards. If anyone is interested in one, just send me a PM. No obligation, just getting a head count.

Huh, cool! That's something to take advantage of then..!

#3271 2 days ago
Quoted from lyonsden:

Out of curiosity, are these lights still available? I may try to get more made if they aren't.

Similar:

http://www.pinballdecals.com/TwilightZoneLampPage.html

#3272 2 days ago
Quoted from monkeyboypaul:

Similar:
http://www.pinballdecals.com/TwilightZoneLampPage.html

Can't believe I missed that, though $165 is pretty expensive. Also found this one for $55: ebay.com link » Twilight Zone Pinball Mod Custom Mini Playfield Lamp Free Shipping Worldwide

For fun, I designed something different. While the effect is very cool, having the Twilight Zone logo on the lamp for the mini playfield seemed off to me. You'll have to imagine this folded to the appropriate shape, but I feel that this will be a better fit for when you do cross over to the mini playfield. I'll check out how much it will be to get a set of 5-10 made and if it works, sell off the rest to cover some of the costs.

Screen Shot 2017-02-17 at 7.51.22 PM (resized).png

#3273 2 days ago

Eric if you can make those at a considerably cheaper price than the pdi shade is be in. I do think I prefer twilight zone? On the sides though.

#3274 1 day ago

Hi guys,

I had I guy from Dubai who wanted my TZ-clock-board, but he had special wishes - he wanted the board in white, the pcbs for the molex-connectors in black and other Molex-connectors (he did not want Molex, but instead Mascon/Pancon connector MLAS100-8-C).

I asked him, why he wanted the board in white. He said, that he wanted something exclusive and a better reflection for the colors of the Superfluxx-LEDs. I did some tests before ordering the final boards and he was very satisfied.

So I fullfilled his wishes, here you can see the result:

DSCN001 (resized).JPG

DSCN002 (resized).JPG

DSCN003 (resized).JPG

DSCN004 (resized).JPG

And now best, as I have still 8 white boards here:

Here is my special offer only for members of the pinside TZ-Owner´s Club.

1 X white board (warm white LEDs preinstalled) + 1 set cool white LEDs + 1 set blue LEDs + 1 set rainbow LEDs + shipping

All for 99,00 USD - so you can save about 50,00 USD to the regular price.

First come first serve.

Please send me PM!!!!

#3275 1 day ago
Quoted from german-pinball:

Here is my special offer only for members of the pinside TZ-Owner´s Club.
1 X white board (warm white LEDs preinstalled) + 1 set cool white LEDs + 1 set blue LEDs + 1 set rainbow LEDs + shipping
All for 99,00 USD - so you can save about 50,00 USD to the regular price.
First come first serve.

$$$ sent, thanks!!

#3276 1 day ago
Quoted from german-pinball:

Hi guys,
I had I guy from Dubai who wanted my TZ-clock-board, but he had special wishes - he wanted the board in white, the pcbs for the molex-connectors in black and other Molex-connectors.
I asked him, why he wanted the board in white. He said, that he wanted something exclusive and a better reflection for the colors of the Superfluxx-LEDs. I did some tests before ordering the final boards and he was very satisfied.
So I fullfilled his wishes, here you can see the result:

And now best, as I have still 8 white boards here:
Here is my special offer only for members of the pinside TZ-Owner´s Club.
1 X white board (warm white LEDs preinstalled) + 1 set cool white LEDs + 1 set blue LEDs + 1 set rainbow LEDs + shipping
All for 99,00 USD - so you can save about 50,00 USD to the regular price.
First come first serve.

Good deal,
I'd like one

#3277 1 day ago

I'll take one.

#3278 1 day ago

I'll take one.

#3280 10 hours ago

Hi Guys..

I came across a complete NOS gumball assembly in my storage the other day. Highly unlikely I will ever use this, so I figured I would give someone else the opportunity to use it to replace a really nasty one or for a game restoration or something.

I have NO idea what this is worth, so I listed it on eBay for the same price I paid for it many years ago.

Thanks!

ebay.com link

#3281 1 hour ago

Do you have any suggestions on a retailer for LEDs? I would like to start adding some to my TZ. I am going to start with the inserts I guess. Likely all white bulbs with the covers on them.
Thanks

#3282 1 hour ago

Does anyone have a good way to get the Superbands on the flippers without breaking anything? I worry that I am going to break something because I have to pull so hard. I wish there was a tool that you could use to stretch the band onto the flipper.

Thanks

#3283 1 hour ago
Quoted from LitzDoc:

Do you have any suggestions on a retailer for LEDs? I would like to start adding some to my TZ. I am going to start with the inserts I guess. Likely all white bulbs with the covers on them.
Thanks

People swear on the Comet LEDs - I have a lot of games that need work so I tend to order tons from PBL and have yet to have a problem. Comet has tons more selection when you really want to get crazy, LEDs you can position in any direction, different configurations, and more warm LEDs which offer the benefit of the new tech but have more of the warmth of incandescents

#3284 1 hour ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

People swear on the Comet LEDs - I have a lot of games that need work so I tend to order tons from PBL and have yet to have a problem. Comet has tons more selection when you really want to get crazy, LEDs you can position in any direction, different configurations, and more warm LEDs which offer the benefit of the new tech but have more of the warmth of incandescents

Excellent. Thanks very much. I love this forum. The info I get on here is wonderful. I have a Pinball Life order in the making so it is perfect timing.
Do you think it is good to just use white under all the inserts?. I figure I want to make it easy since this is my first time adding LEDs to a game. I am trying to keep it simple.

#3285 56 minutes ago
Quoted from LitzDoc:

Excellent. Thanks very much. I love this forum. The info I get on here is wonderful. I have a Pinball Life order in the making so it is perfect timing.
Do you think it is good to just use white under all the inserts?. I figure I want to make it easy since this is my first time adding LEDs to a game. I am trying to keep it simple.

In general, yes - however you may find that some inserts look washed out if you go too bright. You can get those bulbs with 3 LEDs or one big fat one, or the ones you can position... It's a bit overwhelming at first. I basically just put white in everything first then try other colors out in places where it might make a difference. Sometimes it works, sometimes not.

My PF is a sample, and so I have the green lock insert - which basically is too dark to really see well. I added a super bright there which really makes the green "pop". If the insert was red, a super bright bulb would look orange-ish which isn't so great.

One other thing - you can overdo it with the colors but sometimes it looks great - I added a lot of purple to the back of my old TAF and it just looked amazing. YMMV.

best course imo is to get mostly white but get a few bags of 10 or so colors so you can experiment.

#3286 53 minutes ago

Which PBL LEDs did you order? I use 3 led and 4 SMD from there in my games. The ablaze 1 LEDs are real dim, at least the concave clear ones I got were. I never tried frosted.

Oddly enough I don't have PBL LEDs in TZ since it came with a set of comets I believe. Some of the ones in the set were incorrect though so I replaced them with PBLs.

#3287 51 minutes ago

Also I find that I have to bend the wires on the bulbs to 45 degree angles quite frequently so they make better contact. At first I thought I was getting bad bulbs, but I have not in actuality had a single bad bulb yet.

Also remember that LEDs must be turned one direction only, so if one doesn't work ensure its making contact (as above) and then try removing it then rotating it and replace it in the socket. Incandescents don't care which direction the power is flowing but LEDs do. Get the inserts set, the some different LED styles in the Gen illumination, PRN

#3288 44 minutes ago
Quoted from LitzDoc:

Does anyone have a good way to get the Superbands on the flippers without breaking anything? I worry that I am going to break something because I have to pull so hard. I wish there was a tool that you could use to stretch the band onto the flipper.
Thanks

Put them in hot water for a few minutes, they will slide right on.

#3289 38 minutes ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Put them in hot water for a few minutes, they will slide right on.

Great idea. Thanks

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