Not to size, but it is vector. If you ask i will make it to size on a scheme

greed bumpers.pdf

Not sure if anyone is still looking for Proximity board sets, but K's Arcade has them back in stock

https://ksarcade.net/proximity-board-set-for-twilight-zone.html

The right side GI just went out as a result of me installing a LED strip to illuminate rear of the playfield. Could someone confirmed which fuse controls the right side GI? I suspect I blew the fuse as a very similar thing happened on my TAF a while back.

Fuse 106 through 110 are for GI and located in the lower left area of the driver board. That should narrow it down.

I found it...it's F106. I didn't realize that, in the test menu, you can hold the start button and the machine tells you what circuit and fuse is associated with what you're testing. For instance, I went into the GI test, went to the right side (which was dark), then held the start button and it told me the "White/Violet" wire...I then referenced then in the manual's fuse list and boom...F106! Very useful to know moving forward!

heh... I didn't know either...

Yup. This is common in all WPC games.
During most tests - lamp, flasher, coil, flipper, switch, etc - hit start button. It will give you column/row (or power/driver) wire colors. Wait - don't hit a button, and then the fuse will be given, along with any driving transistors.

New style video tv. 3D printing by Joe Zenkus. Hand-painted by Modfather.

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Hoping I can get a idea or 2 on what to try to get my color DMD to not be glitchy towards the top & have some graphics lose color..... especially after warm up.

I had the best repair guy in our hobby repaired the dot controller, have new ribbon cables and have tried reseating them.

Any other things I can try?

I need to give a plug to Ingo (German-Pinball) for his LED expansion board for the TZ clock board. This thing installed with super-ease and lights up my clock like no other! At the link below you can see an installation video of me fumbling through the process. I am new to board electronics and even I was able to do this with no problem. I must say I am not very good with the camera but I think you get the point. If you are ever looking to update the brightness of the TZ clock and you do not need an entirely new board, I recommend this one from Ingo. It even has a brightness dial on it to make sure you can match the light intesity with the rest of your machine. Well done Ingo!

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/9ln6k9ytjtibu5x/AABMfcwBi4OZ9ptub9-CJVgNa?dl=0

Update: I wanted to note that Ingo (creator of the original Ingo-Board) created this expension board as a remedy for my lighting problem with the rottendog clock board I have in my machine. To my knowledge it does not work for the original TZ Bally/WMS clock board and it only addresses the lighting (not the opto problems). He only made one of these as a fun experiment but maybe if enough people were interested he would consider a small batch. Below is some more info on the design and conversation when he originally designed this one:
post #2916:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/twilight-zone-owners-club/page/59#post-3442130
post #2920:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/twilight-zone-owners-club/page/59#post-3442799
post #2923:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/twilight-zone-owners-club/page/59#post-3443484
post #2977:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/twilight-zone-owners-club/page/60#post-3457011

IMO this is the best even spread of lights I have seen and the interchangable bulbs and intesity dial are a huge plus!

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I have entered the TZ owners Zone again / That New clock tech is awesome

In follow-up to posts from Waveman and smiley, I wanted to share my thoughts after 2 weeks of using Ramegoom's clock mod. I have to say, the instructions are probably the best I've received with any mod. The installation was a breeze. One difference for me was that I had the player piano mod that covered the main screw to remove the clock bracket. So, instead of removing that screw, I used a long screwdriver to remove the two bottom long back screws (like Waveman did) which allowed me to remove the clock from the bracket. Also, it was smart of ramegoom to include the e-clip and the spacers. Sure enough, my clip shot off and disappeared, so I ended up using the one provided. And two of my old spacers cracked apart, so the replacements came in handy.

So far after 2 weeks of use, the clock appears to be working 100% correctly. I received the blue board and in my opinion, the coverage is very good. It's hard to take a photo showing how it actually looks in person - they either come out too light or too dark. But here are a few with different exposures. In short, this board looks and performs well, as advertised. I would highly recommend. Thanks Ramegoom!

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For your consideration and feedback -- pinduino driving a strip of addressable LEDs on the plastic ramp:

Code is posted: https://github.com/elyons/professor_pinball_pinduino_sketches/tree/master/TZ-Ramp
Instructions for building/installing: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1Ex8cViVcfrn6gj9XRCe_3N8xbNCnuXmDaTqN-ZotmtQ/edit

I usually tweak the code over time as I get a time to play and watch people play. Also, thinking of integrating the pinball machine code for the second LEDs that the pinduino can control.

That looks good. I think use of more blue and white would look good. Can you do 2 strips on the ramp, one on each outside edge?

better

Too distracting... too much happening at the same time... this game don't need that!

Yes, but the outside edge makes installation much more difficult AND there is a diverter 2/3 of the way down the right side (which the LEDs can run past. Thanks for the feedback on the blue/white.

Well, I personally think it would be better.... but that's just my humble opinion.... I get it that some people like to go over the top sometimes

Nice mod!! Compared to the other pins in my lineup, TZ seems to be lacking some pizazz. Those interactive lights are just the ticket!

I really like this too! I do wonder if the lights could be turned down a bit - it may be the video but they seem like they sort of overpower the other playfield lights. But man that is awesome Nonetheless!

I wish somebody could improve the Rod sound clips in the same way. They still sound atrocious to me. I wonder if Chris Granner still has the tapes? Hell I'll transfer them to digital myself!

Thanks for the supportive words! The LEDs seem brighter in the video because I film with little ambient light using an iPhone camera. They are 5050s, just like many LEDs for pinball machines (but ~40 of them in a row that are all color/brightness controllable). I'll keep working on this for a bit before posting them for sale on my pinside shop, but anyone interested, feel free to PM me. Happy to help you build your own or get a kit together.

I replaced the kicker and it still only works 30 % of the time.
The arm is very loose, would adding a washer help it out ?

the kicker tests fine so it's loosing inertia someplace I think

Also what kind of lubrication does this require, if any ?

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No lubrication of any kind! Next things to check -- does the plunger move smoothly in the coil or is the bracket for the coil loose? Might as well replace the coil sleeve as good measure. Can and post you take a photo of the bracket and coil, and a video of a weak plunge by the kicker?

Your e-clip in the first picture looks shot, could cause a problem.
However, sideways movement like that would NOT affect the kicking force drastically, since the kicking force is vertical, not horizontal like that.

If I remember right, you posted a picture before of the kicker area, and it looked like you have playfield wear. Take the top plastic off, and keep an eye out there - likely what is happening is that the ball is resting in the divot, not against the kicker, so when the kicker activates, it's not giving it's full force against the ball.

Bought another TZ. Check out all the OG documentation.

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How does the coil stop look? If it is all mushroomed out, replace it.

Im now in the TZ club! Picked one up yesterday and love it so far. Cabinet is beat up, but i'll deal with that at a later date- playfield and everything else is in great shape.

I have ordered the Flipper Fidelity Pinsound speaker kit, along with a PinSound board. Anyone running this that can chime in and let me know if its a huge different vs stock stuff? Hoping to be blown away by it.

Make sure you get the downloads for PinSound. The Chris Granner DCS mix is all I ever use any more. There are 4 total on the PinSound community boards - one's called HorrorShow which is pretty cool but is kind of messy if you get a really hot game going. Lots of reverb, etc. The DCS mix sounds GREAT. I wish we could find a better source for the Tim Kitzrow "Rod Serling" samples, as those sound really bad. But otherwise the music (IMO) is way better than the Golden Earring tune looping.. over... and over... and over.. and over!

Did you get the Stereo cable with the PinSound board? Those mixes also sound better in stereo. the FF upgrade is great, although I don't personally have it on my TZ along with the PinSound board. I'm sure you'll be blown away! let us know!

Awesome!! I plan on using the Chris Granner DCS mix myself. I can't wait to try it out.. what an amazing pin TZ is.. been looking for a good one for over a year and finally found it.

I totally agree - my TZ sat for a few months this year while I was working on other pins, and while I finally finished installing the 3rd magnet opto and the 4 door flashers (what a huge difference, by the way!). Can't get enough. Now I want to go back to working on the PinSound stuff so I can dial in the sound better. It's good but I still have the stock speakers so I am looking to upgrade soon...

Got Lost in the Zone for the first time last night since finishing the 3rd magnet opto, and little did I know that the 3 balls would line up on the Spiral and come crashing down at once! it was awesome!

The 3rd magnet mod looks awesome! Probably won't ever do it, but is looks killer.. should have been on all production games.

Having an issue- maybe it's common after a good cleaning and waxing as the game plays super fast after, but I'm getting a lot of rejects from the Lock shot next to the ramp. Keeps bouncing out and only makes the lock shot 1/10 times or so. Anyone know if this is a common issue or if there's a solution?

+1

I gotta say... it really was a pain. Adding the magnet itself is super simple (especially if you have a sample game, like I have - playfield all drilled and opto bracket already installed). The hard part is adding the opto transmitter and receiver. I felt like I had to disassemble half the game to get it to work, and most of the instructions out there were for retro-fitting a production game - well, my wiring wasn't quite the same, so it took me a couple weeks to even power the game back on after I did some testing. Turns out all the research I did was good - I finally understand the wiring matrix now, too!

I would never *eeeever* (any Jericho fans? lol) install it in a production game. I just don't have the guts or the patience. That SAID... holy crap was it worth it!

Also, the *correct* wiring for the 4 flashers (see coyote and lyonsden's awesome TZ Sample thread) is really really cool, ultimately simpler, and IMO far more worth it.

I accidentally clicked on one of my bookmarked pages just now, and it was an old page describing the development of TZ. This quote jumped out:

"Another interesting piece of trivia is the initial rule set for MultiBall on Twilight Zone. Originally, the MultiBall had a roving jackpot shot. The jackpots were lit in order as: Piano, Camera, Dead End. (This explains why the Camera has a "Jackpot" label in the flyer.) The Lock shot would relight jackpot after the third one was collected on the Dead End. The consensus of the design team, and others at Williams who played that version of the rules, was that jackpots were awfully difficult to make, and that MultiBall was pretty frustrating as a result."

OBVIOUSLY later games did not agree with this sentiment! I find TZ's jackpot to be much easier than a lot of other games.

Yup. That's why honest *Prototype* TZ's have red 'Camera' and 'Dead End' inserts.

I like games that have a multiball with one jackpot shot for a ton of points, rather than those that have a multiball with multiple jackpot shots. Feels less fulfilling, and less rewarding to have a jackpot that's that small and easy to get. When you've got balls flying all over the place and you hear "Jackpot" repeated four or five times in two seconds, it doesn't quite mean as much.

Not saying that those games aren't fun in their own right, just not as challenging in certain respects. Requalifying a single jackpot shot can be very tough on some games and makes the higher point award more worth it, to me anyway.

THIS.

Just played TZ then MMR back to back and it's a huge contrast as far as jackpots and their callouts go..

I had the dot board gone through & have all new ribbon cables. It's somewhat better but the color DMD (more after it's been on for awhile) is glitchy on some of the numbers/letters & at times the graphics lose the colors.

I've read in some past post that you can resolder some of the pins. Can someone tell me which pins these would be and... if it's a cable, which cable could it be? Thank you very much

bump...

It's ColorDMD. Some animations are just like that, based on how they colorized it.
Nothing you can fix - if it's really bugging you, contact the ColorDMD folks.

I realize some are not colored but after warm up... the ones that are usually colored are not. I'm sure it's a connection issue.. just not sure what/where to start.

Also... I watched the TZ at Fargo pinball & their color DMD is looking great.

What version of the code are you running? If you are not running 9.4H, may be worth upgrading to see if that helps.

I made a YouTube video to show what I am seeing. Its about 2 minutes. I have the 9.4CH version.

You shoudl really take that up on the ColorDMD forums. (If they have any?) If your game works fine with a regular DMD, then the issue is with ColorDMD.

If the game does NOT work with a regular DMD, get a video of THAT, and most folks here can help.

Honestly, this is like going into a Chevy Dealer and saying that the after-market windshield isn't fitting right.

That looks like a problem with the signal coming from the game. Please run a display test from the game menus and wait for the result of the video RAM test.

If that fails it means the MPU cannot successfully write/read the video RAM on the WPC DMD controller board. Could be a poor ribbon cable connection on one of the wide ribbon cables running from the MPU to the DMD controller board, or a bad video RAM chip.

Wow.. the actual company that makes the color DMD replied. That shows their true integrity. I appreciate that.

I thought another video would explain what I see in the display test.

You've definitely got a bad row coming out of that DMD controller. The fact that it passed the RAM test suggests that communication between the MPU and the board appears to be OK. The DMD controller may have a fault on the output side going from the video RAM to the ColorDMD.

My suggestion at this point would be to try swapping the WPC DMD controller board with one from another WPC game. Since you have a T2 in your collection, you can try swapping the board with T2 to see if the bad row stays with the DMD controller or the game/ColorDMD.

Otherwise, try swapping back in the plasma display and run the video test again. If the row is still bad, it points to an issue with the DMD controller board.

So.. try swapping this board with the 1 from Terminator 2?

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