Post some pics when you install them!

Well, I'm in! Looking forward to the fun! So far the machine plays and looks awesome! The only issue I can find is switch 2 (lower right) on the power field does not spring back open for some reason. Not sure if these switches can be cleaned in any way. I'm thinking of eventually getting the power field switch mod at some point so I guess that would take care of the issue. Either way, I'm very stoked to have my favorite machine ever in my home!

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I need to paint them first, I think gold for TOTAN, what color for TZ? Red?? maybe Blue?

Just loosen the rubber a little.

Hey thx for the reply. But, even when the rubber is off and the switch is out it sticks. The little white plunger seems to be sticking inside the switch housing...

Have you tried adjusting the switch? Remove the grey rubber cover and loosen the 2 screws and move the bottom of the switch away from mini PF until the small button pops out, then re-tighten. If the button on the microswitch is sticky (flaky) then replace the switch with a new one:

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1860

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Hi, yep I tried adjusting it but the little bugger is still sticking. I will either replace it with the stock switch or get the switch kit from K's (probably the latter).
Has anyone actually tried cleaning these little switches though? I'm thinking of maybe just trying some alcohol or carb cleaner.
Thanks!

I have with electrical contact cleaner. works so-so, but really should be replaced. What I've found out is the less a game is played (sits for weeks or months at a time) the more they will stick initially, but then "loosen up", even with the electrical contact cleaner.

pretty easy to just swap the DA3 switch body, add a diode, swap the blade actuator, and you're done for now. then do the GLM mini-PF switches swap later- that is an all day event from what I read about it!

EDIT: here's the cleaner I've used. Like I said it works, but is only short-term

https://www.amazon.com/CRC-5103-Quick-Electronic-Cleaner/dp/B000BXOGNI

Nah, only took me about four hours or so to do, and I consider myself just a high level tinkerer, not an electrician or master solderer at all. I took my time removing the mini playfield and cleaned the crap out it before putting it back, too. I even rewired a couple things to get them out of the way of an errant ball strike.

It may feel like it's going to be a tough job, but it really isn't in the end. Just take it slow and double check everything before continuing on to the next switch. The nice thing is, everything is soldered so it's fixable should you need to do so for any reason.

You don't need to cut the lamp wires to take out the plastic. The lamp has a connector under the playfield you simply disconnect. No need to re-solder anything.

If you are in the Sacramento area, you should join the Sacramento Pinball Group on Yahoo groups. It's simply an email forum of Nor Cal collectors. Guys post things for sale, request tech help, parts wanted, etc. Someone in the area would surely rivet your lamp back to the plastic for you.

If you like to play, also consider the Folsom league, which meets every other Tuesday. You can find their info at powertothepinball.com

You don't need to cut the lamp wires to take out the plastic. The lamp has a connector under the playfield you simply disconnect. No need to re-solder anything.

If you are in the Sacramento area, you should join the Sacramento Pinball Group on Yahoo groups. It's simply an email forum of Nor Cal collectors. Guys post things for sale, request tech help, parts wanted, etc. Someone in the area would surely rivet your lamp back to the plastic for you.

If you like to play, also consider the Folsom league, which meets every other Tuesday. You can find their info at powertothepinball.com

Oh, that will make it *much* easier. I looked for a connector under the playfield but apparently missed it - thanks for bringing that up, I will check again and make an appointment with my eye doctor Glad I did not go clipping wires...

I'm actually in Folsom, so the Folsom league would be pretty convenient - I'll check it out. Thanks!

Duplicate

Just noticed that, at the pinball arcade app, the pop bumper cap colors are wrong!

Can someone tell me what the correct order is?

red orange yellow, top to bottom.

red top left, amber top right, yellow bottom.

Note - orange is not the right pop cap. Also you can look at the inserts on the mini playfield - they line up color-wise with the pops.

Well.... I don't really know (actually never cared about), the difference between orange and amber.... I'm not that purist....

I am really not either. It's only cause I bought the orange then saw the difference. I didn't even know there was an amber at the time.

I have seen that statement many times, but don't agree. Mine was Red,Yellow, and Amber at the bottom when I got it, like pinball arcade. Also the original Bally flyer is that way.

I feel it is more aesthetically pleasing with the Yellow in the upper right. (breaking up the similar red/amber side by side)

We need Pat to settle this!

Proto/sample

The parts list does show the yellow at the bottom and amber in upper right.

Guys, this was a long standing assenbly issue from the factory. The assembly picture and notes that assembly workers had was incorrect. The flyer was wrong as well (I think? Can't remember that part for sure.. It may be the source for the assembly pics..)

You can search RGP back in the 90s for messages from Ted, Lawlor, and notes from Expo seminars about it.

The caps were meant to match the powerfield colors, so that if you got the Orange slingshot, the Red and Orange (Amber, whatever) bumpers were lit - not Red and Yellow.

Honestly, either way works, you can have your game however you want - as designed, or as from factory. Honestly, I "fixed" mine, since my OCD wouldn't let me get an Orange slingshot and see the red and yellow poo bumpers lit. :mrgreen k

Does anyone know why LEDs would slightly dim when flippers are used? I just installed the ultimate pinballbulbs led kit with the two LED strips. I never had this problem before but when I use the flippers they dim slightly and then come back full strength. Its not a huge issue unless you are repeatedly hitting the flippers but kinda annoying, especially when you just paid 200$+ for them. Thanks for the help.

Jimmy

Just joined this club 2 days ago and I am currently adding a cointaker LED set that came with it. Looks like I will have a lot of cleaning to do in the back of the playfield but really excited to have one these! Didn't expect to at all!

I have the switch 26 error and I am hoping that eliminating the plugs that cause the issue with just soldering the wires will do the trick.

I have the same kit installed and don't see anything like this. Which lights are dimming? If you unplug the strip lighting does the problem go away?

Probably failing caps in the power supply circuit they are connected to.

Also could be connectors. Probably nothing wrong with the pinballbulbs kit.

Yeah - their strip lighting puts a sub-connector on the J116 connector. I'd start there before assuming anything awful.

http://www.pinballbulbs.com/installs/wpc-light-strip-installation

I put the strip in 116 and the DMD went crazy. I unplugged it and put it in the 117 and now they dim slightly. Ill take them out and see what happens later tonight. Just weird.

Switch 26 appears to be the trough opto. You can try cleaning it, but it looks like you might want to get one of these if it just doesn't work any more (though I am far from an expert):

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-16533-PP

It's not an opto. It's a coil of wires. Cleaning it will only make it shiny.

Wow, really? I would have figured that was almost a perfect use-case for an opto there. I didn't even read what came on the replacement board

But yeah, it's a coil - ignore my previous post and don't bother cleaning it

I literally today just read about the pop bumpers. Lawlor confirmed that the flyer was correct. Further research apparently also confirmed this from a secondary source.

http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/2684/Bally_1993_Twilight_Zone_Bumper_Caps_Order.pdf

It appears to be working. However I believe I blew out the mini playfield optos with a wrong plug so now I'll have to replace those. Ugh.

But again, to clarify - all that says is what I said - that they *left the factory that way* - not that it was the 'correct' way.

Here's a few pics of my TZ in mid teardown and shop. The work is being done by Perry at http://www.pookiespinballs.com/

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Done. Super easy once I took it out of the machine

Mine is set with Red Upper Left, Yellow Upper Right and Orange bottom.

However, a theory I have is that they could be tied in with the skill shot. When you hit the Red skill shot the red bumper is lit (upper left). Hitting the Orange skill shot lights the top two bumpers, and hitting the Yellow skill shot lights all three. Using this theory, red and orange should be at the top and yellow at the bottom.

I suppose it really does not matter all that much since as soon as you hit any of the bumpers the lit ones change.

I'll be installing this TZ topper this week

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yikes $400+

Love it but damn, that's a boatload of money for a topper.

Can I go further and state that $400 is a boatload of money for a f***ing ugly topper? Don't get me wrong, the idea is great but the execution....(yikes...).

Plenty of better images out there to use.... what's up with that slot machine for christsakes???

If you don't like it fine, but don't be a dick about it.

I'm toying with the idea of offering some alternate clock face decals for TZ. The original decal on my clock was falling off. While getting ready to order a replacement I thought about printing a new original clock face (I do vinyl decal printing).

So this is just a prototype example. I like it on my machine and thought I would ask if there would be any interest for others? It's reverse printed on removable clear vinyl with a translite diffuser. It installs in the same location as the original decal. Because it's removable vinyl you can reposition it if you miss lining it up on your first few attempts so no wasting a decal (or your money) because of a simple mistake.

This particular color scheme best matched the original clock decal colors but I can change the colors easily if you prefer something else. In addition, I will be increasing the vibrancy of these colors on final prints as this is just a first attempt.

Thanks!

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wow that looks awesome! i would be interested and am getting ready to rebuild my clock!

Last time I checked, I was entitled to have and express my opinion... if you don't like it fine, but don't be a dick about it.

I got 2 questions: Is your housing blue? Could you post a pic of the decal alone?

I do have the blue housing and my clock board is from Rottendog with LEDs. Here is a pic of the decal (I can change the color scheme to match your personal preference). I've already made printing adjustments to make this look more vibrant and will install version 2 of this decal tomorrow. I will also follow up with pics if anyone is interested.

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the clock decal is interesting because it's different and colorful but you can't tell time with it. Can you make something different and colorful that's still a clock face?