Quoted from LOTR_breath:Hey, I sold my TZ to raise money for a GOT Premium and six months later I'm still happy I did it.
me too!
Been fighting all last evening with my TZ slot scoop not registering when a ball is in it. I replaced the switch with a brand new one (original was working) and have adjusted it to where the ball is indeed registering a switch contact when I have the scoop off the playfield in my hand to watch the ball roll through it.
However, when I put the scoop back in and hit a ball in to the scoop nothing happens. Eventually a ball search kicks it out.
I have checked my level with an inclinometer on the playfield and the game is at the right inclination.
I cleaned out the inside of the scoop as it was filthy.
I have putzed around with the damn switch blade adjusting it for an hour.
I am reaching my breaking point and feel like I am indeed stuck somewhere in the damn Twilight Zone!
Any suggestions at this point would be appreciated.
Put your phone on Video, and start recording. Place it down on the transformer, aimed up at the scoop. Shoot a ball from plunger into slot scoop. Watch what happens.
Quoted from Coyote:Put your phone on Video, and start recording. Place it down on the transformer, aimed up at the scoop. Shoot a ball from plunger into slot scoop. Watch what happens.
I will give that a try. I am done just guess and checking this.
Quoted from Bos98:I will give that a try. I am done just guess and checking this.
I figured out the issue, it was the distance between the coil and the scoop. The ball was rolling so far past the switch it was no longer making contact. I moved the coil bracket closer and then fiddled with the switch adjustment and now it is 50 for 50 on testing.
Quoted from Bos98:I figured out the issue, it was the distance between the coil and the scoop. The ball was rolling so far past the switch it was no longer making contact. I moved the coil bracket closer and then fiddled with the switch adjustment and now it is 50 for 50 on testing.
Glad you got it!
Anyone know where the 4 small clear plastics are supposed to go? Can't seem to figure it out.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/twilight-zone-clear-plastics-question
Quoted from scottmaggie:Anyone know where the 4 small clear plastics are supposed to go? Can't seem to figure it out.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/twilight-zone-clear-plastics-question
The only one that I can find on mine is the one in the shooter lane, as shown in the other thread.
Quoted from Seatmandan:Finally got around to installing my Pinball Life gumballs and Pinball Pro Piano.
Thanks to fellow Pinsider for the piano!!
How was the gumball install? i am considering getting the same ones from PB life
Quoted from Seatmandan:Finally got around to installing my Pinball Life gumballs and Pinball Pro Piano.
Thanks to fellow Pinsider for the piano!!
Is that a red clock housing or the reflection from the piano mod? Either way.... it looks great.
Quoted from arcadenerd925:How was the gumball install?
Easy. took less than 2 minutes. First, I divided them into 2 equal piles. Next, I removed the gumball lid and pressed each one in where the 2 halves if the clear globe come together. slight bit of an "interference fit" but no problem
Quoted from scampcamp:Is that a red clock housing or the reflection from the piano mod? Either way.... it looks great.
Red Housing. Was going to do a Blue one, but when only red was in stock at the time when I restored it. I like it as well!
Hi all. I just joined the club and picked up a TZ in decent shape but needs some love. Going to tear it down and give a good deep cleaning. There are a few things I could really use help with:
1) clock is broken. It moves correctly on test but not in game. I think from what I've read it's the board. Where's the best place to get one?
2) the game randomly resets into test mode. Not all the time but sometimes mid play.
3) I need a new/spare speaker panel. Anything available under 150? Or know how to fix a dent in the plastic?
4) flippers work but bottom ones are weak. Do I rebuild or something else?
5) inside the door to the left on the bottom of the game there's a random connector like a flipper button. One wire is broken off. Anyone know what's this part to? Here's a couple pics.
Thanks ahead of time. And if anyone knows of spare mods I will like to purchase some along the way. Pm me for those. Thanks!
Jimmy
Quoted from Jimmyapple:Hi all. I just joined the club and picked up a TZ in decent shape but needs some love. Going to tear it down and give a good deep cleaning. There are a few things I could really use help with:
1) clock is broken. It moves correctly on test but not in game. I think from what I've read it's the board. Where's the best place to get one?
2) the game randomly resets into test mode. Not all the time but sometimes mid play.
3) I need a new/spare speaker panel. Anything available under 150? Or know how to fix a dent in the plastic?
4) flippers work but bottom ones are weak. Do I rebuild or something else?
5) inside the door to the left on the bottom of the game there's a random connector like a flipper button. One wire is broken off. Anyone know what's this part to? Here's a couple pics.
Thanks ahead of time. And if anyone knows of spare mods I will like to purchase some along the way. Pm me for those. Thanks!
Jimmy
Get clock board from ingo.
Flipper weakness may be from the opto boards at the flipper buttons. Try cleaning them with a qtip and rubbing alcohol. They may need to be replaced.
Quoted from Jimmyapple:3) I need a new/spare speaker panel. Anything available under 150? Or know how to fix a dent in the plastic?
Little shop of Games has them brand new. It says 9 in stock. I bought a bunch of TZ stuff from them. Great people!
http://littleshopofgames.com/product/twilight-zone-speaker-panel-31-1420-50020/
Switch with the wire broken is a slam-tilt switch. You don't need it.
It's purpose was to detect a slam on the body of the machine, such as a kick to the bottom or lift-and-drop the game during play. If the switch contacts connect, it will initiate a tilt.
For the spam switch, should I completely detach the wires and wrap them or let them be? One is attached now. Thanks.
Quoted from Jimmyapple:For the spam switch, should I completely detach the wires and wrap them or let them be? One is attached now. Thanks.
Quoted from Jimmyapple:Sorry, slam switch.
Leave them be - no harm in leaving them attached, or detatched. If detatched, don't let them short against something else.
For the 'entering into test' - that's strange. The service buttons are NOT on the switch matrix, and are closed directly to ground, on top of that, if the coin door switch is closed, the MPU won't GO into test mode. So, you have some strangeness going on with other switches down there around the coin door.
Quoted from Seatmandan:Easy. took less than 2 minutes. First, I divided them into 2 equal piles. Next, I removed the gumball lid and pressed each one in where the 2 halves if the clear globe come together. slight bit of an "interference fit" but no problem
Thanks for the follow up. I am mounting a custom light in there so i popped the lid off the other day and noticed the clearance, made me a little worried, heh.
Quoted from Jimmyapple:2) the game randomly resets into test mode. Not all the time but sometimes mid play.
Are you sure it's resetting into test mode? Or is it resetting, and you're seeing the boot screens, and then it goes back to the attract screens as if you just powered on the game? That's a common reset on WPC games. Resetting into test mode, like Coyote said, is not common.
Its going into the boot screen where it shows your errors and everything stops working (flippers, sounds, etc.). I have a broken clock that I ordered the fix for by recommendation from Lermod. But I don't know why that would cause a mid game reset. Thoughts?
Quoted from Jimmyapple:Its going into the boot screen where it shows your errors and everything stops working (flippers, sounds, etc.). I have a broken clock that I ordered the fix for by recommendation from Lermod. But I don't know why that would cause a mid game reset. Thoughts?
Do a search for WPC resets. Very common problem having to do with a lower than normal +5vdc. Usually requires replacement of bridge rectifier and capacitors. There is also the Karh(spelling?) add on board fix.
Your resets could also be just a bad connection on your plugs. I reseated mine and the reset problem went away. Try reseating the connecters before going the board work way.
Thanks. The cab is filthy so I am in the process of cleaning it out. Going to take some work so I will reset and see if that helps. Will be a chore to get back in shape. Not going to let this one die though.
Just as an FYI-
I've got some TZ parts I'm not going to need if anyone in this thread is interested.
CPR reproduction mini playfield, production "Flip Here" version, $150.00 shipped, flat rate box.
NOS TZ complete plastics set, NOT REPRODUCTION, $185.00 shipped, flat rate box.
OEM working proximity board set (both sensor and proximity boards) $50.00 shipped, flat rate padded envelope.
PPS reproduction TZ translight, $140.00 shipped, rolled in tube, shipping cost dependent on where it goes.
Send PM if interested, photos available on request.
Added over 8 years ago: Plastics set SOLD.
Anyone have a pinbit gumball lamp kit they want to sell? Out of stock online - pm me if you do thanks
i switched my flipper opts boards with no change in weak left flipper. I'm confused because they are the stronger 11629's. Should I take those to the recommended mid strength coils? Don't know why I would be having a problem with weakness if they're the stronger coils unless it's causing the game to malfunction. Any help would be great.
Quoted from Jimmyapple:i switched my flipper opts boards with no change in weak left flipper. I'm confused because they are the stronger 11629's. Should I take those to the recommended mid strength coils? Don't know why I would be having a problem with weakness if they're the stronger coils unless it's causing the game to malfunction. Any help would be great.
Flippers probably need rebuilt with everything minus coils and flipper bats. If its as dirty as you say they probably haven't been done in forever and are probably really worn
you have two flipper return springs on there. the smaller one is the correct one, but the larger one is from an older type of flipper assembly. 2 springs = double the resistance when the flipper is actuated. this could be contributing to the weakness. Remove the larger spring around the coil shaft. Keep the smaller one connected between the "wing" and the EOS bracket
EDIT: Also, I read on Pinside here somewhere that there are different length coil stops. not sure if this applies to this game, but may contribute to the problem
Quoted from Seatmandan:you have two flipper return springs on there. the smaller one is the correct one, but the larger one is from an older type of flipper assembly. 2 springs = double the resistance when the flipper is actuated. this could be contributing to the weakness. Remove the larger spring around the coil shaft. Keep the smaller one connected between the "wing" and the EOS bracket
EDIT: Also, I read on Pinside here somewhere that there are different length coil stops. not sure if this applies to this game, but may contribute to the problem
Yep extra spring definitely isnt helping lol. Tz uses the larger coil stops compared to games after it .
Quoted from bigd1979:Yep extra spring definitely isnt helping lol. Tz uses the larger coil stops compared to games after it .
*shorter.
TZ used A-12111 in the first half of production/samples. Mid-run, they switched to A-12390. The former is a shorter stop, allowing for greater flipper travel. The latter, A-12390, has a longer stop and shortens the flipper's travel.
Is it worth breaking down the assemblies and cleaning them or simply replace? What do you use for parts cleaning vs table cleaning? Thanks- I'll take the spring off tonight and give a shot. Also probably should at minimum replace sleeves.
Quoted from Jimmyapple:Is it worth breaking down the assemblies and cleaning them or simply replace? What do you use for parts cleaning vs table cleaning? Thanks- I'll take the spring off tonight and give a shot. Also probably should at minimum replace sleeves.
When rebuilding flippers, you should *always* replace sleeves, stops, and links. When reassembling, make sure that you use the spacer so that the flipper links don't bind. Springs should be replaced if any bit of them are stretched or uneven.
A good test for proper spacing and to make sure nothing is binding is the finger flip test -
With the playfield in it's down position, take your pointer finger on the bottom outer edge of the flipper, and push it up, as in a really slow flipper. It shouldn't bind anywhere, and should travel freely. Once in the up position, remove your finger, and the flipper bat should fall back to normal - all the way down - so that if you press it down, it doesn't move any more. If the bat does not travel freely, something is binding.
Here's a good thread outlining "everything you need to know about flippers.......and more!"
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers
Your flippers may be weak because your interruptor on the flipper board is white, allow g too much reflective light in. Paint it black or cover the part that crosses the opto with black electrical tape. I had this same issue on my scared stiff.
Thanks all. I have a few things to try and will be posting results. They are so dirty I need to prob rebuild them just to clean them. As it stands now only the cleanest shot will get the ball up the ramps, otherwise it comes back. Ill paint the white on the optos, take the second spring off and then review how to ultimately rebuild these guys.
I took off the spring and painted the opto and it is much better. Only thing now is that they feel a little "loose" but I can work on that over time. Thanks all- at least playable for now. Except for that test issue. When I get some time I'll review the WPC threads and try to fix that. Thanks again all. Buy y'all a beer if u r ever in Annapolis.
I bought my TZ about 10 years ago but, for a variety of reasons, it has spent the past 4 years folded up in a garage (well, a couple of garages, technically). Now, though - it's back!
Either the years in storage were not kind or the machine was in worse shape than I thought when it went into hibernation, because I've got some work to do. Let's see here:
Problem #1: Fired up the game, got the "restored to factory settings" message. Uh oh. Forgot to take out the batteries 4 years ago. In the original holder. Had a leak. Was very, very lucky that nothing important got damaged, just a corroded contact. Remote battery holder installed, pulse lowered.
Problem #2: Next thing I noticed was that 20-30%+ of my lamps were out. Decided to fix it up right - ordered the pinballbulbs.com Ultimate LED kit. You can see the before and after below - what an amazing difference. Took a couple evenings to install and since I was doing all this digging around, I was able to address some other issues...
Problem #3: My rubbers were in sad, sad shape. A few were literally disintegrating. The front mini-PF ones were a struggle, but otherwise replacement was pretty straightforward, thankfully.
Problem #4: Clock millions switch wasn't working. This was actually long-standing back to before the hibernation and interestingly the SW seemed to deal with it by reassigning the clock functions to the target next to the slot machine, which I though was weird. Anyways, noticed that the lead had disconnected and soldered it back on.
Problem #5: My playfield is absolutely covered in white gunky speckles. What the heck is this from? The disintegrating rubber? I was able to get about 90% of this off and can probably get the rest with more time, but I wish I understood what it is from.
Problem #6: The top-left jet bumper is not very sensitive, which is a problem because balls rolling down form the hitchhiker lane need to trigger this or they drain SDTM. I fiddled with the leaf spring a little bit, but it still only triggers about 80% of the time on hitchhiker balls. I have the proper tool on order, hopefully that will help, but I'm open to other suggestions.
Problem #7: The left bottom flipper kind of sucks. The plunger was filthy (WAY dirtier than the other 3), so it probably needs a rebuild (kit ordered), but I am also concerned about the opto - the interrupter doesn't appear to completely clear out of the sensor. My right side has a visible gap when fully extended but the left seems like it is about a half millimeter or so still in the opto lane at the bottom when I press the flipper button. I'm not really sure if this is actually a problem or the best way to fix it (the flipper button setup looks nothing like what Jimmyapple posted above - I have a single opto and the interrupter is mounted to a copper leaf spring)
Problem #8: The extra ball button was a disaster. I mean it wasn't even mechanically engaging with its switch and the mounting was just all broken. I have it taped into place with gorilla tape for now, but I need to figure out a long-term solution eventually. Fortunately, its not like you spend all game whacking the extra ball button...
Problem #9: Cracked & broken plastics on the slingshots and slot machine. This can't be new. How on earth did I never notice this before?
So it is getting there, but still some work to do. In a week or two, it should be a full return to awesome
Quoted from Coyote:Uhm, for problem #7, you have a bigger offsite, as EOS switches aren't optos.
Oh, sorry - where I said EOS, replace with opto
(actually, can apparently edit myself)
It has been a while since I've worked on a pinball machine. I did a bit when a first bought it and really nothing since then until a week ago
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