Quoted from TheLaw:To me it's the only "must do" mod.
Ingo's clock board might be on that short list--it works so smoothly and runs so cool!
(Topic ID: 63352)
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Twilight Zone
Bally, 1993
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Alpharetta, GA
Quoted from Billy16:Ingo's clock board might be on that short list--it works so smoothly and runs so cool!
If your clock is running fine, which does happen, then it isn't needed imo. Of course I have Ingo's clock and still get clock is broken errors so whatever 
I had my clock turned off for years anyway...isn't needed.
Clocks can be finicky.
20+ years ago, I rebuilt the clock on the TZ at the Galleria Namco store with #73 bulbs, diodes, and vent holes. It ran flawlessly for over a year in commercial operation.
That clock, in exactly that shape, still runs today (I bought the game), with no modifications.
I have parts to re-do it with a new shell, LEDs, and all that jazz ... but why? it works.
Quoted from _litz:That clock, in exactly that shape, still runs today (I bought the game), with no modifications.
1 week later
Quoted from _litz:The clock optops are kind of a mongrel ... the switch column strobe comes from the 8-aux driver PCB.
The switch row returns go in the normal switch row inputs shared with the rest of the switch matrix.
You can test a clock board out of the game by building a simple test fixture that provides +12 to the board, and has LEDs that light up on the row returns. Any time you transition the switch column from +12 to Ground, you should see the row returns reflect the status of the optos.
Thank you litz! I don't have a test fixture but this put me in the right direction. Found some other issues along the way that I fixed. I'm pretty sure the LM339 on the 10 switch opto board is the culprit. (Unless of course Marco sent 3 bad optos and I happened to put them in the same place 
)Everything else checked out good, and I don't think you can test the LM339 accurately with a dmm.
Quoted from vilant:Thank you litz! I don't have a test fixture but this put me in the right direction. Found some other issues along the way that I fixed. I'm pretty sure the LM339 on the 10 switch opto board is the culprit. (Unless of course Marco sent 3 bad optos and I happened to put them in the same place )Everything else checked out good, and I don't think you can test the LM339 accurately with a dmm.
Very very unlikely.
Clock optos do NOT go through the opto board. Only columns #7 and #8 do. #9, the clock, does not.
Well I physically traced the wires out and verified continuity. The harness on the clock (j2 or j3 forget which) , goes directly to the 10 switch opto board, through a diode and then to a LM339. I don't have the schematics but I just bought the manual and should be here soon. Something goofy is going on and the LM339 is the only thing I can't test to see if it's good. If that's not it, what other IC is involved with the clock optos?
Quoted from vilant:Well I physically traced the wires out and verified continuity. The harness on the clock (j2 or j3 forget which) , goes directly to the 10 switch opto board, through a diode and then to a LM339. I don't have the schematics but I just bought the manual and should be here soon. Something goofy is going on and the LM339 is the only thing I can't test to see if it's good. If that's not it, what other IC is involved with the clock optos?
Yes.
You're traing the ROW wire, which is connected to the opto board - on the OUTPUT side of the opto board. i.e. The LM339 on the opto board recieved signal from the opto connected to it, and the LM339 then drives that row to ground.
You will notice that regular game optos are closed normally, (a)ctive when open. However, clock optos are *not* - they're (a)ctive closed.
The clock's column is driven by the output on the 8-driver PCB in the backbox, which pulses all optos on the clock board - optos are wired to the standard ROW (white/xx) wires (which are then connected to the opto board, all switches, back to the MPU).. 
I installed a cointaker kit in mine. It does brighten it up considerably, but if you're an epileptic, you're in for a rough ride...amazing the strobing effect when you hit the jackpot.
There is some merit to the subdued incandescent lighting in certain places vs. LEDs. Still, I converted all of my pins for the benefit of lower power consumption, and it definitely does the trick with LEDs. I can now easily put six pins on a single 20 amp circuit.
Quoted from ramegoom:I installed a cointaker kit in mine. It does brighten it up considerably, but if you're an epileptic, you're in for a rough ride...amazing the strobing effect when you hit the jackpot.
There is some merit to the subdued incandescent lighting in certain places vs. LEDs. Still, I converted all of my pins for the benefit of lower power consumption, and it definitely does the trick with LEDs. I can now easily put six pins on a single 20 amp circuit.
Yeah I like how my Indiana Jones is done...the LED's don't seem bright, but my Jurassic Park is blinding in some places, mainly the green plastic cap flashers (their technical name escapes me at the moment). I think the picture I posted looks fine, but it's actually darker than that picture appears, especially the top half of the playfield--I can't even track the ball. If anything, I'd just get some warm white LED's to replace a few of the dark spots as those seem to give more of a classic look and feel. I'm not looking to blue & purple bomb it.
Get the LED OCD. Strobing will be gone. I can not play games with the hard on/off of leds, especially in a dark room - can't see with the rough flashing. But with the OCD, it's not a problem.
Some examples with backboard lights and trough light. Codors can be changed, white might look good on your game.
Quoted from Agent_Hero:I'm in the club with a TZ that's just too dark for me. I don't want to color bomb it, but what's the best way to brighten it up a bit? I've seen a few people in this thread going with the Cointaker kit. Eh?
Quoted from Coyote:Yes.
You're traing the ROW wire, which is connected to the opto board - on the OUTPUT side of the opto board. i.e. The LM339 on the opto board recieved signal from the opto connected to it, and the LM339 then drives that row to ground.
You will notice that regular game optos are closed normally, (a)ctive when open. However, clock optos are *not* - they're (a)ctive closed.
The clock's column is driven by the output on the 8-driver PCB in the backbox, which pulses all optos on the clock board - optos are wired to the standard ROW (white/xx) wires (which are then connected to the opto board, all switches, back to the MPU)..
Well, you were right, it ended up being the optos. Just bought a manual and spare clock from another member. Plugged it in and everything works. What threw me off was the same 3 optos (new) were reading active when they weren't supposed to be, just like the old ones. Not sure how brand new optos went bad, although I can think of a couple possibilities. Anyway, thanks for the help from everyone.
Quoted from Lermods:Some examples with backboard lights and trough light. Codors can be changed, white might look good on your game.
I like the backboard lights, I am considering using some spare RGB LED strips I have laying around and mounting them back there. Definitely too dark without something IMHO. (that and I am going to take the same lights and put some in the lid of the gumball machine)
Quoted from Agent_Hero:Why is this club not linked to the game being discussed, like all of the other clubs?
Someone took the link off and now it's not possible to add it back - gotta ask a moderator for help!
Quoted from Agent_Hero:Why is this club not linked to the game being discussed, like all of the other clubs?
Dude, because it's the Twilight Zone!
Quoted from Billy16:Dude, because it's the Twilight Zone!
... you're entering another dimension, a dimension not only of sight and sound, but of the mind!
Something else that can be VERY confusing on TZ w/the clock is this ...
All the OTHER optos in the game run through the 10-opto PCB (or if you have a sample, both 7-opto PCBs). All of these opto signals are buffered by LM339s, before connecting to the switch ROW returns back to the CPU.
On the clock, and only on the clock, the switch ROW returns are connected directly to the optos.
This means if you have a failure of the aux 8-driver PCB and the 9th switch column strobe is stuck enabled, the clock's optos will over-ride and mask the switch ROW signals, causing all kinds of havoc, and basically make the game go bezerk.
On TZ, whenever you are trying to trouble shoot switch matrix issues, ALWAYS unplug the clock, to ensure it's not the cause.
Quoted from nibre:I have bought the special decorative balls for the TZ Gumball Machine. Which is the simplest way to put them in? They are too big to put in from the top. I don't feel like taking the Gumball Machine apart completely...
If you bought the correct ones, they're slightly bigger than the passage through, but you'll be ok! Just press! Or, do as I did.... Pray and press, then pray again!
Quoted from AlexSMendes:If you bought the correct ones, they're slightly bigger than the passage through, but you'll be ok! Just press! Or, do as I did.... Pray and press, then pray again!
This is how I got mine in and all went well.
Breda
So, uh.. silly question for those that have gumballs in their machine..
What happens when you have to take the center ball guide out, and the balls get everywhere into the machine?
Quoted from Coyote:So, uh.. silly question for those that have gumballs in their machine..
What happens when you have to take the center ball guide out, and the balls get everywhere into the machine?
I think the center guide will remove without messing with the gumballs.
But it has been a long time since I had to mess with mine
Chinese checkers fit without much flexing in mine. Even better when it's common to find that game at Goodwill. Dumped them in some soap & water, dried them, and in they go.
Quoted from Agent_Hero:Chinese checkers fit without much flexing in mine. Even better when it's common to find that game at Goodwill. Dumped them in some soap & water, dried them, and in they go.
Yep. I bought mine new in a Pressman brand chinese checkers game from a school supply store. Cost me just under $4. Didn't use the blacks or whites, if memory serves me correctly. Never liked those flavors anyway. Besides, they don't look as good amongst the blues, red, yellows, and greens.
And once you press them into the areas on either side of the main chute where the actual pinballs go, they ain't comin' out unless you remove and disassemble the whole gumball machine. I speak from firsthand experience.
For those leery of removing their gumball machine, there's actually a very very very easy way to do so :
Remove the playfield back wall (five wood screws from the bottom), and the gumball assembly easily tips right off the back, once you've removed the wire rail above the popper.
That's exactly how I did it, too, but for you noobs: Whatever you do, make sure you remove the screws that hold down the "feet" of the gumball machine first! (There are four of them.)
Quoted from Miguel351:That's exactly how I did it, too, but for you noobs: Whatever you do, make sure you remove the screws that hold down the "feet" of the gumball machine first! (There are four of them.)
That falls under the "if it doesn't want to move, there's a reason why ... find that reason before you tug too hard and something breaks".
This isn't like loosening a bolt on a car engine ... stuff that doesn't move isn't moving for a good reason.
Like screws you haven't taken loose that hold something in place ... 
I know. But those feet are unfortunately extremely fragile due to heat cycling and age and are notorious for not coming out with the gumball machine.
My gumball machine only had three feet total when I removed it and one of those was already broken off for me. It was screwed down to the playfield, but I think it was just there for moral support.
Quoted from Coyote:So, uh.. silly question for those that have gumballs in their machine..
What happens when you have to take the center ball guide out, and the balls get everywhere into the machine?
Each half of the gumball globe molding (front & rear) have sidewalls molded into them that separate that area from the pinball area.
Quoted from Seatmandan:Each half of the gumball globe molding (front & rear) have sidewalls molded into them that separate that area from the pinball area.
Are those bath beads?
Quoted from Agent_Hero:How do I remove the small bolts attached to the magna flip plastic?
They aren;t bolt, their rivets,. So you'll have to drill them out and then rivet them back in...or use small screws/nuts when replacing.
Quoted from TheLaw:...or use small screws/nuts when replacing.
anyone here have small nuts?
ok I am done trolling.... 
Quoted from TheLaw:or use small screws/nuts when replacing.
…which is exactly what I did on mine when I installed the GLM mini switch kit. Makes those plastics adjustable and easy to get perfectly straight and also removable should I need to do any more work on the mini playfield that I'd like to have them out of the way.
Bought Creature for my first game in 1994 then added Indy and Twilight a year and a half later, both with beautiful playfields and no fade or damage to their cabinets. I didn't take the time today to remove the glass or clean the playfield before taking the attached pic of my TZ shooter lane - it always looks that good. I know they make dozens of mods for TZ, but I don't add things that I feel just clutter up the playfield. However, I have added:
ColorDMD (if they'd only make one for WHOdunnit all my B/W games would have them)
pyramid topper (one of the few aftermarket toppers that I like)
magnet on ball diverter (simple but very useful mod needed to smooth gameplay)
full LEDs throughout (including two different speed blinking bulbs in some backbox sockets)
Ingo's clock board (I replaced perfectly good boards mainly to have LEDs in the clock, too)
active undercab lighting (for overall room effect) NOTE: not lit in the attached games pic.
rocket ship with exhaust trail (a bit of clutter but I like the interactive exhaust lighting)
kit of two flashers added under the door in the middle of the playfield (adds a little flash)
side art panels (decent but no where near as good as the ones he made for Monster Bash)
colored balls on sides of gumball machine (not really needed and doesn't match the translite)
Stern-style leg protectors under the legs (to protect the cabinet artwork from wrinkling)
green_to_yellow_(resized).jpgshooter_lane_(resized).jpg
Added over 8 years ago: Forgot that I also added Pinball Pro speakers and subwoofer.
Re: drilling out rivets .... those rivets get HOT ... FAST ... when you drill on them.
Either have plenty of cooling water on hand, or place the entire assembly under water, and literally drill it underwater. Use a slow speed on the drill press to prevent splashing.
If you get to hot, you'll melt the plastic, and then you're not in a fun place.
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