And check for burned pins/connectors on the power board (J120/J121)

This is part of the e-mail, I have sent Barry today:

"...Hi Barry,

the fault is not on my board, because neither on the old board, nor my board the optos work, same as the GI-LEDs.

You somewhere have a conneector problem or a wiring problem under the playfield or a burnt GI-fuse.

So first we should get the four great GI-LEDs running.

Please post fotos of your power driver board (PDB) connectors J115, J120 + J121. The GI for the clock-LEDs are at connectors J120-9 (white-yellow) and J121-3 (yellow).

BUT first check Fuse F108 (this one is responsible for the GI-string 3) on your power driver board.

Would also be a good idea, to check the other GI-Fuses F106, 107, 109 + 110.

Please report, if the fuse F108 is OK.

You should also follow the yellow and white-yellow wires from the right connector at the clock backwards to the PDB and look, if there is a connector under the playfield somewhere, that has a bad connection.

When we have the 4 big LEDs working, we will go to the optos, OK?

- Ingo ..."

First we should solve the GI-Problem, then we will see, where the fault is in the wiring for the optos.

I am so happy and thankful for you smart pinball people! A Local pinball arcade guy came over (his name is Dustin) and figured it out pretty quick. It was a bad fuse. The fuses looked good but 1 tested bad. He also adjusted the opto in the clock and now it works great!! Thanks again everybody.

Ingo.....thanks for designing and making these Twilight Zone clock boards! It's a complicated piece of engineering art. Please keep designing and making other pinball things better.

Whaddayaknow--it actually was "just a fuse"...

And Barry confirmed, that it was fuse F108 on the PDB .... What did we all learn, when the clock GI does not work? First check F108

Would someone be able to take a picture of their molex connector so I have something to compare mine to or at least be able to figure out how it is supposed to look? My test came up as switch 26, 27 , and 28 had a problem and they all connect to that and those switches do not register. If anybody is able to help I would appreciate it a bunch. Thanks ahaead of time

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Where does that connector go?

EDIT - OK now I see, it goes to that 4 pin connector.

Yikes. That thing looks like how my TZ's J121(GI) connector used to be. I guess replacement IDC connectors were hard to get for operators back in the day. My J121 also had soldered wires on it. Needless to say, the connector had a few "hot spots".

If you haven't got a pic of that connector by tonight, I'll try and remember to do it when I get home and upload it tomorrow for you.

Finished taking out the plastic tunnels under the playfield. Put them in the tub w hot water, sudsy Dawn & used a Scrub Daddy. I dried them & used Novus 1.

They were pretty black from coil dust/dirt. Should help keep the playfield/balls cleaner.

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I used Windex and Novus 1 on my TOTAN subway. turned out great

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Have u installed it yet?

Crap! Completely forgot all about it. Don't worry, I made myself a reminder note this time. I'll get that picture!

Hoping someone here can help out. Working on a buddy's TZ that has the pyramid topper that pinball pro sells (see a link to the topper below) but all the connections to the topper were unplugged, not labeled, and I have no instructions. Does anybody have this topper that could tell me where the connectors are supposed to go, or can scan the instructions? Reached out to pinball pro but never heard from them.

http://pinballpro.net/shop/twilight-zone-topper-accessory/

Hi everyone, been in the club about a year now! I haven't posted before but now I have a couple questions:

-First, I need to buy a new power cord and here are 2 I found:

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1520

http://www.actionpinball.com/parts.php?item=COR003

Is there a reason to choose one over the other or is there a different one you would recommend?

-Second, I'm in the Saint Louis area and I'd like to find someone to look over my machine to see if there are any things that may be obvious to someone who is more experienced (I am teaching myself everything and I know I have a lot to learn) that I should make a priority to fix / replace before I go spending money on things I would like to get but can wait if needed (i.e. new glass, legs, ect). If anyone has any recommendations for someone to contact, I'd greatly appreciate it.

Those are both the same wire gauge, but no listing on manufacturers. Most owners go with the longer 10' cord for convenience. You can buy the same cord at any computer store, as it is the type that are used for standard electronics and desktop computers. You can make a longer cord with your own plug, if you need to overall.

Now that you say that I realize that I remember that about the computer store from when I initially got the machine but the closest store isn't actually close lol. I need to get new balls too so I will just get the one from pinball life, thank you.

Ok, I tried to get just about every angle I could. Let me know if these are what you needed.

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I'm in the process of installing the Great Lakes Modular TZ mini pf switch kit & noticed the wires that are on the right look bad. Would you replace the wire or use electric tape?

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Unsolder them and shrink tube them with the small diameter stuff...Just make sure their aren't any frayed.

On the ipdp page for TZ it states that the playfields have a serial number that only shows up under black light. I don't see this on my machine. Does anyone have any more info on this "black light" serial number?

It is printed over the door in the middle of the field. Reproduction fields, and fields sold as parts don't have this. (I'm not sure if the ink was put on top of clearcoat, or under clearcoat.)

Thank you guys for the pics of your molex adapters. I got my problem all sorted out now. You guys are too awesome

Please no electrical tape.

You don't need to unsolder the wires.
Split shrink tube, and heat to seal.
You will need the smallest size type to get a good tight bond and no slip.
Twist the wires slightly together, if they are beginning to fray, before installing the tube.

On the Great Lakes Modular directions on installing the mini pf switch kit it says to remove 2 wires (white & green) from the switches. I see a 2 green with a yellow stripe & a blue.

Where are the white & green wires? I asked GLM but haven't heard from them. This is a well made mod. This is supposed to be the easy part.

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The mostly white wires are the white, and the mostly green wires are the green. It probably doesn't make much difference as long as you keep the like wires together. Agreed, it's a nice mod.

That's weird. Mine doesn't show up. The serial number on the playfield matches my cabinet and it has a date stamped on the front of the playfield that reads jun 01, 1993. I have to assume it's original. Could it have been cleaned off our maybe never even applied?

Thanks johninc.... that helps a lot! Have you/anyone installed this mod? I've heard there will be some tight soldering situations.

I put a little bit of solder on the pads of the switches before soldering the wires to them. It made it go a LOT faster upon assembly. Between the wires being tinned and the pads being tinned, all I had to do was add a little bit of heat and they went together super easy.

It also helps big time to have a nice pen style soldering iron.

Yeah, what Miguel351 said. Tight, but not that difficult.

My PF was completely repainted, so I won't even waste my time here....

Just got my EL backed hinges assembled and installed....sweet!!! Pics as promised...Welcome to the Twilight Zone!!!

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An absolute quality product and looks great...however, the word " easy" and phrase " modifying upper playfield on TZ" are an absolute oxymoron .....I wired the second set of contacts on the switch to other lights, installed lit star posts for GI and Flash up there, finished w clear plexi sheet underneath instead of the cardboard. One of the toughest f**king mods I've ever done...hope mine lasts forever, as I have no desire to take it back apart....ever....

Like the plexi instead of the chipboard - good idea.

That is awesome.

It was pointed out on other thread they left the f**king "I" out of the cut....got from pinball center in Germany ...Ill have them send another set, or take to local machine shop to add the letter....shit....never saw it...

DOH. I didn't even notice! The name is probably trademarked.

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Oh no.... look: http://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-parts-by-game/twilight-zone/7244/hinge-pivot-set-twilight-zone-bally-/-williams?c=2819

Is it lighted? How?

I used EL paper behind the cutout...like my IM and Tronle hinge and rail mods....looks cool..
I'll get the spelling sorted...obviously not paying attention ( been known to do that...ask my Wife)

Nice to know I got at set without the "I" cutout...I'm sure they'll make it right. ..all the hard work done...take me 20 minutes total to swap them out....

There are only a few mods I would like and these look great!

So cool: http://www.entertainmentearth.com/prodinfo.asp?number=BBP05828#.V0smXZErL4Y

Updated pics ( added the " I" myself w Dremel ).....

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DId you make that or buy it. I would like one.

A guy used to sell them, but can't remember who....made mine using cardboard as template....really looks good, as the inside GI lights the area nicely...

Good recovery!

I had a buddy install the GLM mini pf switch kit. I installed the pf but was wondering if the 2 bars are supposed to be resting right on the mini pf like in the picture?

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Yes, but the wires should be below the rails

Very cool idea. I make mods on and off and utilize a 3d printer as well. I don't use the 3d printed model itself though as they usually take a fair amount of time to print. I usually print one, sand the print lines out, make a mold, and cast multiple copies in either plastic or brass. It's a fun hobby within a hobby. I've slowed down a lot though.

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I have 4 balls stuck in a trough somewhere under the pf. Does anyone know how I can get them out & why are they not coming up. It keeps looking for missing balls. Thanks

Funny. I have one stuck somewhere too. I'm planning on just tipping the platforms back slowly, hoping it rolls out. Then trying to find out why...