(Topic ID: 63352)

Twilight Zone Owner's club


By Caucasian2Step

5 years ago



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There are 7309 posts in this topic. You are on page 41 of 147.
#2001 3 years ago
Quoted from Archytas:

I literally did this last night (replaced some really dim LED's with bendy ones to light the inserts better). You can follow the manual but the easiest way I found to do it was the following:
1) Pull playfield up so it is resting on service rails.
2) Remove nut above playfield post on right, screw where the mini-playfield joins the ramp and there are 2 screws mounted to a metal plate on the lower left side above the pop bumpers (these are the worst 2, they are slightly underneath and in a bit of an awkward position). In total 4 things to remove.
3) Slide mini playfield forward - it should slide under the ramp and forward, if you are finding it is catching it is likely the wires from the lamp are behind the metal mounting bracket, move these round the bracket. As it slides forward feed the wires through the playfeld.
4) With the playfield out you should have enough slack with the wires to turn it sideways and get underneath, you will be greeted with a large cardboard protector mounted in place by 5 screws. Remove 2 of the screws that are close to the top which will allow you to bend the cardboard back enough to get to the lamps.
5) Replace lamps, there is also a flasher here so remember to do this as well.
6) Roughly mount playfield back in place, turn game on - test all lamps work, if they don't remove and adjust as required. (worst thing would be putting it all back and finding out 1 of them doesn't work!)
7) Remount into place. Enjoy new lamps!
The manual suggested unplugging the 4 connectors that attach to the mini-playfield but I found this wasn't necessary as I only had to get it out enough to replace the lamps and there was enough slack on the wires. If you do decide to do this MARK THEM - there are 2 with practically the same wiring and if you plug them in the wrong way round you will blow something up.

Nice, will follow these instructions to also install the mni-pf cliffy protectors I've been postponing for awhile!

#2002 3 years ago

wow - thanks for the detail!!

#2003 3 years ago
Quoted from NathB:

the German fellow as that seems to get the thumbs up off most.

Have to correct you here in your first post ... most, must be, all

Congrats in getting a great pin !!

#2004 3 years ago

TZ owners I am in the process of restoring the 3rd TZ for a client.

You can follow the progress with many pics and some descriptions of whats is being done on my FB page "Pintech"

On the timeline scroll down for past restorations including past TZ restores.

Maybe you will find some helpful info with your machines.

#2005 3 years ago

AE-24-900. The number 24 refers to the gauge of wire and the number 900 refers to the number of windings, so yes those two coils are very similar. But the answer to your question is that manuals are very often wrong. Amazing how many times you will see wrong wire colors, wrong pin numbers, wrong coil numbers etc.

To the other fellows question, you should have 5 steel balls and 1 ceramic. And default settings is for 3 balls per game. If somebody changed it to 4 they probably messed with many other settings as well. I would go into utilities menu and do a factory install to get all your settings back to default.

#2006 3 years ago
Quoted from NathB:

Hi guys and gals.
My first post on pinside. Been on forum a few times over the last few years but as I got my first machine a few days ago I thought I'd best sign up proper and get involved.
I just got a lovely clean twighlight zone with plenty of nice mods already fitted. Cabinet is a bit faded but I'm not bothered as playfield and plastics all great.
A few days play and all seems well with it. The clock seems to work 80% of the time but every now and then it decides not to. After reading a few older threads I'll give the optos a clean and see if that works. If all else fails I may plump for a new clock board off the German fellow as that seems to get the thumbs up off most.
It should be said I love playing but don't have much knowlage of how these things work (or how to fix them) so I'm hoping this is where you guys can help when problems arise.
Any way that's just a quick intro. I have a couple of questions if that's cool?
Firstly which tools do you think I should invest in in order to maintain and fix my machine?
Secondly how many balls should my machine have in it? I think mines got 4 and 1ceramic at the minute.
Thirdly how many balls should one credit give me? At the moment I get four for one credit but should it be three? I only ask as I want my high scores (low scores)to be relevant to everyone else's.
Thanks in advance. I look forward to getting to know you all.
I'll try and get some pics up later.
Cheers Nath

Congratulations and welcome to the club! My first pin was also a TZ. Mine also had a bunch of issues and over the course of a number of months, I got them all worked out and fixed. Along the way I learned a LOT about fixing pinball machines as TZ shares a ton, mechanically and electrically, with a vast majority of modern games.

As for the tools you'll need…my main go to tool is a ratcheting screwdriver. Something like this(since I know you guys have Stanley over there):
13111954_(resized).jpeg

Don't quite know which hardware stores you've got near you, but I'm sure they'd have something quite like this there. They aren't very expensive for the sets and you actually only end up using about a third of all the bits, but it's still worth getting. I also have a few extensions to go with mine as well. Makes life extremely easy for those hard to reach areas, and it keeps your hands free and clear of all the fiddly bits underneath the playfield when you're trying to unscrew things. You might have other brands there that are better quality, too. Nobody would fault you for buying a proper, high quality one of these. You want it to last.

That'll at least get you going in the right direction. There are very few bespoke tools for pinball machines. Outside of that screwdriver set and its bits, I'd say a standard 1/4" socket set(probably safe to go with deep sockets) and a few different types of pliers, and you'll be set! As you get deeper into certain projects, you may discover a need for some kind of special tool, but these should cover the majority of the basic stuff. When the time comes to fix something, do a search on the forum first. There are plenty of us that have had the same issues before and have worked them out on the forum, along with what the solutions were.

Your game should have 5 steel balls and one ceramic. There should be three in the gumball machine(one is somewhat hidden under the other two you can see).

Typically one credit is three balls, but some people do five balls and I've even played a game that was ten! But, the standard around here is three balls per credit.

Good luck to you on your pinball journey! TZ is the monster that, if you tame it, you'll be able to tame just about any other machine out there!

#2007 3 years ago
Quoted from AlexSMendes:

Drop catch is so cool, but my slot vulk spits the ball at 100 mph, so it's f***ing hard to do it.... Lost so many balls attempting, but I'll never give up!

The ball is already moving towards the center so drop catching means you have to shoot immediately.

A live catch cradles it immediately but is more difficult.

Seems like if it's coming out too fast to dead bounce to the left flipper a partial drop catch to absorb some energy from the ball followed by the dead bounce would be the easiest way to get control.

#2008 3 years ago
Quoted from NathB:

Firstly which tools do you think I should invest in in order to maintain and fix my machine?

Basic tools and parts that are the most common:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/i2mq2q7mi7e4e84/AABhgc9i8jRzRS6GrYEftYina?dl=0

No sanders, files, jigs, clamps, oscilloscopes, EPROM encoders, PCB test switchboards or anything else fancy underneath the workbench.
Fuses, connectors, MOLEX, and pins are not shown, among all sorts of other "racks" and bins in other areas.

The boxes hold NOS, specialized items, higher end (rarely used) tool kits, PCBs, and all sorts of other game specific parts.
I keep most non-used boards outside of this area for temperature protection.
You do not need a $1500+ temperature solder station for most basic work, just proper solder tips and skill.

If you have a question or do not recognize something, ask.
I did these photos for others, but I think it time to just provide some simple photos of the standard workbench.
If you stay in the hobby, you are eventually going to need all of this and a whole lot more.
I am not even sure I could completely categorize everything, as there are all sort of "nook and cranny" tools that are needed specifically for pinball machines that are not used in any other parts of the arcade coin-operated industry.

Words of Wisdom: "Do not be cheap on tools, buy quality".

Start with a Craftsman MAGNETIC multi-attachment screwdriver with multiple bit attachments, and a full range of nut-drivers.
You are also going to need a proper multimeter and logic probe, and solder station. You can get buy with "solder suckers" syringes for a while until you get a Hakko or something higher end.
Novus for cleaning with terry clothes, and chamois for polishing.
You already see what I use for clear coated playfields in carnuba wax.
Why Craftsman for baseline tools?
Lifetime warranty.
Skip any others.

Stay away from Radio Shack, except for 60/40 solder and fuses.
That multimeter is quite old and an exception, but I have another couple in cases, it just depends on what I am doing overall.
If it finally dies, it did its job after over 20 years, I might even give it to a new collector instead.

#2009 3 years ago
Quoted from Miguel351:

Congratulations and welcome to the club! My first pin was also a TZ. Mine also had a bunch of issues and over the course of a number of months, I got them all worked out and fixed. Along the way I learned a LOT about fixing pinball machines as TZ shares a ton, mechanically and electrically, with a vast majority of modern games.
As for the tools you'll need…my main go to tool is a ratcheting screwdriver. Something like this(since I know you guys have Stanley over there):
13111954_(resized).jpeg
Don't quite know which hardware stores you've got near you, but I'm sure they'd have something quite like this there. They aren't very expensive for the sets and you actually only end up using about a third of all the bits, but it's still worth getting. I also have a few extensions to go with mine as well. Makes life extremely easy for those hard to reach areas, and it keeps your hands free and clear of all the fiddly bits underneath the playfield when you're trying to unscrew things. You might have other brands there that are better quality, too. Nobody would fault you for buying a proper, high quality one of these. You want it to last.
That'll at least get you going in the right direction. There are very few bespoke tools for pinball machines. Outside of that screwdriver set and its bits, I'd say a standard 1/4" socket set(probably safe to go with deep sockets) and a few different types of pliers, and you'll be set! As you get deeper into certain projects, you may discover a need for some kind of special tool, but these should cover the majority of the basic stuff. When the time comes to fix something, do a search on the forum first. There are plenty of us that have had the same issues before and have worked them out on the forum, along with what the solutions were.
Your game should have 5 steel balls and one ceramic. There should be three in the gumball machine(one is somewhat hidden under the other two you can see).
Typically one credit is three balls, but some people do five balls and I've even played a game that was ten! But, the standard around here is three balls per credit.
Good luck to you on your pinball journey! TZ is the monster that, if you tame it, you'll be able to tame just about any other machine out there!

I play a 5-ball game, always buy the last extra-ball, and have 7 balls installed (6 + 1 powerball (4 into the gumball)).

#2010 3 years ago

what lights are you guys using in the piano mod (red and yellow) - def wedge fit but are you using led covers or frosted? Do frosted non ghost fit? Going to replace mine soon.

also - what lights do I get for the flashers in the backboard? I bought 906 flasher wedge but they don't flash when installed....

#2011 3 years ago
Quoted from NathB:

Thirdly how many balls should one credit give me? At the moment I get four for one credit but should it be three?

Welcome to the Twilight Zone!

Standard pinball has been 3 balls since the end of the EM era. Manufactures pushed that on operators to increase revenue across the board.

TZ is one of the games with the extra ball button, which I could never resist, and set a bunch of 4 ball high scores. I disabled the EB button and just set it to 4 balls for consistency on my TZ.

#2012 3 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

what lights are you guys using in the piano mod (red and yellow) - def wedge fit but are you using led covers or frosted? Do frosted non ghost fit? Going to replace mine soon.
also - what lights do I get for the flashers in the backboard? I bought 906 flasher wedge but they don't flash when installed....

Tz dont have flashers in the backbox...it uses six 545 blinkers

#2013 3 years ago

Another real handy tool to have is a 1/4 in. extra-long nut driver. For that matter, you will eventually use 5/16" and 11/32" but the 1/4" is widely used. Longer (6 in) reach is very useful in certain spots.
nutdriver_(resized).jpg

#2014 3 years ago

Guys, I still can't get my carriage to not trap balls. I can't believe it. I replaced the coil with brand new. Sometimes it works fine. Doesn't seem to be a lot of extra resistance as the springback seems just right to bring the empty carriage back up to normal position. I just need more power out of the coil. Is it a sin or would it break something to put in the next larger coil in that spot?

Thanks.

#2015 3 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Guys, I still can't get my carriage to not trap balls. I can't believe it. I replaced the coil with brand new. Sometimes it works fine. Doesn't seem to be a lot of extra resistance as the springback seems just right to bring the empty carriage back up to normal position. I just need more power out of the coil. Is it a sin or would it break something to put in the next larger coil in that spot?
Thanks.

Take apart the entire assembly and clean it.
It also probably needs rebuilt after many years of use, and the assembly can get "slop" over time which reduces or redirects coil power.
Also, check the return spring with the manual diagram assembly part #.
Is the spring the CORRECT one?
You may be surprised to find out it may not be.

#2016 3 years ago

Thanks for all the replay gents.
Changed mine to a three ball game now and got a list of tools coming along.
Thoroughly enjoying machine. Very addictive. Both flow and stop and go. What's not to like.
Hers a few (poor quality) pics

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#2017 3 years ago

Look good! I have the same light up for the pinball machine.

how did you get the right ramp to light up so much? Is that a blue light strip? Looks like maybe another blue strip in the back pointing down too? If so, where did you connect it to for power?

Based on your pic, I might need to buy that powerball shooter rod! looks great!

#2018 3 years ago

Something funky going on in your shooter lane. Looks like there is a post missing and someone decided to add some type of flap?

Here's what it should look like. Except in my picture the diverter is squashed and shouldn't be.

2009_1026TZ0041_(resized).JPG

#2019 3 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

Look good! I have the same light up for the pinball machine.
how did you get the right ramp to light up so much? Is that a blue light strip? Looks like maybe another blue strip in the back pointing down too? If so, where did you connect it to for power?
Based on your pic, I might need to buy that powerball shooter rod! looks great!

Cheers
Yeah blue led strip light above back of playfield. I'll investigate its power source and get back to you.

Quoted from LOTR_breath:

Something funky going on in your shooter lane. Looks like there is a post missing and someone decided to add some type of flap?
Here's what it should look like. Except in my picture the diverter is squashed and shouldn't be.

2009_1026TZ0041_(resized).JPG

Good eyes.
I'll keep an eye on ball behavior in that area and see why it's been fondled. All seems to behave correctly during auto mode ( multiball plunge launch jobbie)

#2020 3 years ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

AE-24-900. The number 24 refers to the gauge of wire and the number 900 refers to the number of windings, so yes those two coils are very similar....

Thanks, I stand corrected. I ASSumed the 900 was ohms, it's not.

That makes sense to label the coils this way, but there is no way to verify the specs if the label has burned off or is missing. A quick ohm-reference chart would be helpful for various coils.

Then there are the AC coils...different specs altogether with lower turns-ratio. Anyone ever chart pinball coils?

#2021 3 years ago

Cabinet resto Time

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#2022 3 years ago
Quoted from Seatmandan:

Cabinet resto Time

IMG_8010_(resized).JPGIMG_7995_(resized).JPGIMG_7996_(resized).JPGIMG_7998_(resized).JPGIMG_7999_(resized).JPGIMG_8005_(resized).JPGIMG_8002_(resized).JPGIMG_8006_(resized).JPGIMG_8008_(resized).JPG

Looks good so far, but boy.. seeing you sand it up makes me cry.

#2023 3 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

seeing you sand it up makes me cry.

I guess I could've stuck with the ultra-fade... TZ was a black & white show after all!! BUT.... I really like the original colors... and I like resto projects!

#2024 3 years ago

Im thinking about having my TZ shopped by a local pinball repair guy. I hear he does great work but charges $1,000 & doesnt take everything off the playfield.

Is this a fair price or should I just try & do it myself? Never have cleaned this complicated of a game. Thanks

#2025 3 years ago
Quoted from scampcamp:

Im thinking about having my TZ shopped by a local pinball repair guy. I hear he does great work but charges $1,000 & doesnt take everything off the playfield.
Is this a fair price or should I just try & do it myself? Never have cleaned this complicated of a game. Thanks

That is a horrible price...shameful actually.

#2026 3 years ago

No kidding. I've done some major shop jobs including rebuilding flippers and have charged $350-400.

#2027 3 years ago

Oh ghods, yeah. No. If anything, do it yourself. Learn how the game works.

#2028 3 years ago

Yea.. i think ill try it myself. I still need to put in the mini pf switch kit, Titan rubbers, the Ingo clock board & CT led's so ill just do a section at a time... cleaning & waxing while putting in new parts.

I haven't checked with any places in the Mnpls area that shops pins. I'm 3 hours away.

#2029 3 years ago
Quoted from scampcamp:

Im thinking about having my TZ shopped by a local pinball repair guy. I hear he does great work but charges $1,000 & doesnt take everything off the playfield.
Is this a fair price or should I just try & do it myself? Never have cleaned this complicated of a game. Thanks

Do it yourself, and learn about your machine. The benefits are beyond saving money.
BTW, the cost of the that shop job is the cost of what some people charge for PF swaps on simpler games (early SS).

#2030 3 years ago
Quoted from NathB:

Cheers
Yeah blue led strip light above back of playfield. I'll investigate its power source and get back to you.

So no light directly below the right ramp? Looks like there is light directly on it plus you have the blue hanging down in the back.

#2031 3 years ago
Quoted from scampcamp:

Yea.. i think ill try it myself. I still need to put in the mini pf switch kit, Titan rubbers, the Ingo clock board & CT led's so ill just do a section at a time... cleaning & waxing while putting in new parts.

This is exactly what I did and how I did it. I worked in one area at a time and/or on one item at a time: the gumball machine and its surrounding parts and plastics, the main ramp and its pieces, the metal ramp and the lock area and their assorted pieces, the apron and everything underneath it, pulling each individual light board underneath the playfield one at a time to clean and clean/replace bulbs, …..etc, etc, etc.

Limit yourself to one area or subassembly at a time and you'll be golden. Don't be afraid to ask questions here, either. I know I've asked more than my share of 'em here.

Good luck on your quest!

#2032 3 years ago

Just hit a lucky shot I didn't even think was possible...kick-out from the pops to the upper right flipper, reaction shot to the right Spiral and into the gumball machine.

#2033 3 years ago

Hey TZ owners! I've got an interesting question and hopefully some of you can give me your expert answer. A buddy of mine picked up a TZ recently "the_director" and he already owns one. He mentioned while looking over the machine that the clock gear was on the bottom instead of the top. He mentioned that his other TZ clock gear was at the top. I confirmed on my machine it was at the top as well. What's the correct way?

image_(resized).jpeg

#2034 3 years ago

Yes motor on bottom

#2035 3 years ago
Quoted from Nightmare:

Hey TZ owners! I've got an interesting question and hopefully some of you can give me your expert answer. A buddy of mine picked up a TZ recently "the_director" and he already owns one. He mentioned while looking over the machine that the clock gear was on the bottom instead of the top. He mentioned that his other TZ clock gear was at the top. I confirmed on my machine it was at the top as well. What's the correct way?

image_(resized).jpeg

Yes, the picture you attached is correct. Motor goes on the bottom. And then there's a ball-guide (anti-ball trap) that screws in to the top screw, over the motor.

#2036 3 years ago

Just dreamin'... A new mode, a "final battle" versus the Power.
One ball in play. GI of the powerfield off. Every standup target and hole qualify a quarter of hour on the clock. Starting Midnight, a shot advance the clock a quarter of hour.

When the ball is shooted in the right ramp, the ball goes to the powerfield: then the clock start running towards midnight again, clockwise, GI of the clock and powerfield ON, everything off. You have to keep the ball in the powerfield as long as the clock is running. No drain, no going to the top hole. Just shooting without going down or up. When the clock hits midnight again, you have to shot the top to win!

The idea is to wander as you want in the main playfield to reduce the time in the powerfield to stay before you can shoot the top to win.

I don't remember if willigly keeping the ball in the powerfield is an easy task or not. What do you think about it?

#2037 3 years ago

Have a question. I am looking for a stock cabinet woofer for my TZ, seems the original speaker paper is shredded. Just want to replace it with the standard woofer.

Who carries these, or does anyone have one to sell?
speaker_(resized).jpg

#2038 3 years ago
Quoted from ramegoom:

Have a question. I am looking for a stock cabinet woofer for my TZ, seems the original speaker paper is shredded. Just want to replace it with the standard woofer.
Who carries these, or does anyone have one to sell?
speaker_(resized).jpg

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5555-12929-00

#2039 3 years ago
Quoted from ramegoom:

Have a question. I am looking for a stock cabinet woofer for my TZ, seems the original speaker paper is shredded. Just want to replace it with the standard woofer.
Who carries these, or does anyone have one to sell?
speaker_(resized).jpg

Or you can search for a similar but better speaker with Google and it will probably be cheaper

#2040 3 years ago

^^Thanks for the replies. Should have checked Marco from the start. Got it on order.

#2041 3 years ago

Joined the club today. I am sure I will be combing through this thread in depth soon!

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#2042 3 years ago
Quoted from Nightmare:

Hey TZ owners! I've got an interesting question and hopefully some of you can give me your expert answer. A buddy of mine picked up a TZ recently "the_director" and he already owns one. He mentioned while looking over the machine that the clock gear was on the bottom instead of the top. He mentioned that his other TZ clock gear was at the top. I confirmed on my machine it was at the top as well. What's the correct way?

image_(resized).jpeg

That pics is from my site www.aaarpinball.com. Glad it was useful.

I had same issue... Motor was wrong. If I recall, you need to readjust the clock gears if you flip it over.

Apparently there are many out there that put them together incorrectly!

#2043 3 years ago
Quoted from Bos98:

Joined the club today. I am sure I will be combing through this thread in depth soon!

Nice looking TZ, congrats! I'm always in too much of a rush to get a pin home to remember to get pics of the trip.

#2044 3 years ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

I'm always in too much of a rush to get a pin home to remember to get pics of the trip.

Yeah, was thinking the same!

#2045 3 years ago

Does anyone have it installed? If so, can you share some pics?

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#2046 3 years ago
Quoted from AlexSMendes:

Does anyone have it installed? If so, can you share some pics?

image_62908_1_(resized).jpg

Are those hinges laser cut letters, or painted on....drooling heavily right now...I emailed them, but they're in Germany ....if laser, I must have, and put el paper behind!!!

#2047 3 years ago

They look laser cut to me.

#2048 3 years ago
Quoted from fiberdude120:

They look laser cut to me.

They do to me, as well....wanted to confirm....white EL behind those!!!...game/ set/ match!!!

#2049 3 years ago

If you send them to me I will install and send you some pics...

#2050 3 years ago
Quoted from Billy16:

If you send them to me I will install and send you some pics...

While thoughtful, your kindness is killing me.....

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