(Topic ID: 63352)

Twilight Zone Owner's club


By Caucasian2Step

5 years ago



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  • Latest reply 1 hour ago by cocomonkeh
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There are 7309 posts in this topic. You are on page 38 of 147.
#1851 3 years ago

Thanks for the photo of the cutout of the stars! Really nice indeed!!!

#1852 3 years ago

Replacing my clock board. Are there instructions? Remove 4 screws and slide clock out? Just want to Check before attempting it

#1853 3 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

Replacing my clock board. Are there instructions? Remove 4 screws and slide clock out? Just want to Check before attempting it

Make sure your clock-hands are aligned at 12 o'clock !!

#1854 3 years ago

I would think what you need has to be in this thread somewhere.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/now-available-ingos-tz-clock-board-borygard-le-version

#1855 3 years ago

Hey guys, I'm cross-posting a problem I'm having here from the general tech forum for a bit of greater exposure:

Every few (like two or three) games my TZ will report "Check Gumball Machine Diverter" and default to simulated powerballs. I can sometimes fix it for a couple games by starting a game with the glass off, manually hit left then right ramp and then load the gumball machine. A few normal games later TZ will return to believing there's a problem and back to simulated powerballs it goes, even though balls are diverted where they need to go. I cleaned the opto before the vertical upkick into the GB machine and the switch in the small trough leading there performs properly in testing. As far as I know, these are the two main areas past posts here and and in rec.games.pinball have pointed to as problem ones. Both the subway and trough sensors are able to differentiate between regular balls and the powerball properly.

I don't know where to go from here - I'm so close to having TZ function at 100% but the powerball is such a big part of functionality and personality of the machine.

Any guidance would be greatly appreciated!

#1856 3 years ago
Quoted from Thor-NL:

Make sure your clock-hands are aligned at 12 o'clock !!

And don't lose the pin that holds the hands together!

#1857 3 years ago

My TZ is haunted! Two screens from BK2K, and two from TAFG.

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#1858 3 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

My TZ is haunted! Two screens from BK2K, and two from TAFG.

IMG_20160321_205502_(resized).jpgIMG_20160321_204905_(resized).jpgIMG_20160321_205003_(resized).jpgIMG_20160321_205840_(resized).jpg

Ok...that's weird....welcome to the twilight zone ( I guess)....don't turn your back on it!!!

#1859 3 years ago

Try calling that number, you won't get your "Authentic Black Knight T-shirt for $14.95" now...

That is an advertiser EPROM mixed set used by operators in the 1990s. Not many used them, highly uncommon. That is unless you decided to "mix and match" EPROMS yourself and display a custom message as a joke, which I have also seen in years past.

#1860 3 years ago
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:

Try calling that number, you won't get your "Authentic Black Knight T-shirt for $14.95" now...
That is an advertiser EPROM mixed set used by operators in the 1990s. Not many used them, highly uncommon. That is unless you decided to "mix and match" EPROMS yourself and display a custom message as a joke, which I have also seen in years past.

Nah, thinking too much on it. I simply connected my DMD up to my laptop, and was playing a few games on it, with the display output going to TZ's DMD. Thought it was amusing.

#1861 3 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Nah, thinking too much on it. I simply connected my DMD up to my laptop, and was playing a few games on it, with the display output going to TZ's DMD. Thought it was amusing.

Cold, you are!!!

#1862 3 years ago

I read a tip that you can clean up the power ball using Chrome Polish & a rag. Great tip! It turned out really nice. I doubt I'll return the new 1 I just ordered from Marco ($50)... will be here Fri or Sat. but I thought about it.

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#1863 3 years ago

The powerball is supposed to be white?? I like the patina on mine.

I have been telling guests that it's a 'marble', but ceramic would be correct.

#1864 3 years ago

Quoted from TheLaw:

"It is normal for the powerball to change color from white to pearlecent color as it ages. This in no way effects the playability or the ability of the game to detect it's presence in the playfield! Cleaning of the Powerball IS NOT recomended. "
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#1865 3 years ago

Seems I read somewhere back that the size and weight vary between original and the repros....any input or truth to any of that?

I bought an "original" (supposedly) NOS, nice and white but felt a bit heavier than the one I changed out....just curious...game plays fine...

#1866 3 years ago
Quoted from MK6PIN:

Seems I read somewhere back that the size and weight vary between original and the repros....any input or truth to any of that?

Time to dust off this old chesnut

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tz-powerball-original#post-396273

#1867 3 years ago

Ahh...thanks!!! I knew I'd seen it somewhere....glad to know my "investment" was good when I purchased the properly weighted ball (geesh we can be a picky bunch sometimes....)

#1868 3 years ago
Quoted from scampcamp:

I read a tip that you can clean up the power ball using Chrome Polish and rag. Great tip! It turned out really nice.

An owner can use just about any type of metal polish and it does the trick.
Some work faster than others with less "elbow grease".

The Mr. Pinball tip was posted way back in the early 2000s.
http://user.xmission.com/~daina/tips/pub/tip0177.html

My preference is Flitz, and you don't need a tumbler, because I use it for multiple purposes and there is less residue or solvent oils to clean.
Additive or Polish, buyer choice, they both work very well.
http://www.flitz.com/tumbler-reloading-media-additive/

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#1869 3 years ago

Can we finally put this debate to an end? How should the pop bumpers be? I have Orange at the bottom, Red at top left, and Yellow at top right. Is this correct or no? It would seem that which ever skill shot color you get, that pop bumper would light up. I don't feel like my order is correct. Thanks

#1870 3 years ago
Quoted from Nightmare:

Can we finally put this debate to an end? How should the pop bumpers be? I have Orange at the bottom, Red at top left, and Yellow at top right. Is this correct or no? It would seem that which ever skill shot color you get, that pop bumper would light up. I don't feel like my order is correct. Thanks

There is no debate, it was put to rest years ago in this thread....search the thread! I'm on my phone so can't do it for you

#1871 3 years ago

Follow the Power mini-pf "lightning" inserts order.

#1872 3 years ago
Quoted from JoJoBear:

Look at the lightning bolt inserts on the mini-playfield. Notice how the top-left is red, top-right is orange, and the bottom is yellow. This matches the correct order for the bumper caps. Took me a while to notice this little tidbit myself.

#1873 3 years ago

Thanks to everyone that posted! Really appreciate it.

#1874 3 years ago

Submitted for your approval, Twilight Zone in DCS, featuring Chris Granner's original soundtrack, plus color DMD, from start all the way through Lost in the Zone.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/twilight-zone-in-dts-pinsound-wcolor-dmd-full-gamelitz

#1875 3 years ago
Quoted from cheshirefilms:

Submitted for your approval, Twilight Zone in DCS, featuring Chris Granner's original soundtrack, plus color DMD, from start all the way through Lost in the Zone.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/twilight-zone-in-dts-pinsound-wcolor-dmd-full-gamelitz

Thanks for posting the vid, I'm still on the fence for both the pinsound board and the color DMD so this helps.

#1876 3 years ago

Anyone know what switch Coin Option 4 is used for in this game? Was having some weird multiball issues and when I started to dig into the problem I discovered this switch was triggering intermittently via a hack job wire. Unplugged the wire from the coin door interface board and my game now appears to be playing fine. Can't seem to find any info on this switch via the manual and it looks like nothing should have been plugged into that spot. Wondering if this has something to do with the 3rd magnet mod.

#1877 3 years ago

Coin switch #4 is used for the DBV. Wouldn't have affected gameplay at all.

#1878 3 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Coin switch #4 is used for the DBV. Wouldn't have affected gameplay at all.

Thanks.

Even though it's not connected to the games switch matrix could the rapidly firing and lack of grounding to J4 have any effect on the power consumption of the pin? My TZ seems super sensitive to odd power fluctuations. Sorry I'm a bit weak when it comes to the electrical side of fixing these games. I know enough to be dangerous.

#1879 3 years ago
Quoted from Ed209:

Thanks.
Even though it's not connected to the games switch matrix could the rapidly firing and lack of grounding to J4 have any effect on the power consumption of the pin? My TZ seems super sensitive to odd power fluctuations. Sorry I'm a bit weak when it comes to the electrical side of fixing these games. I know enough to be dangerous.

Unlikely, really.. In theory, it COULD have driven your +12v down enough to cause optos to fail (or report blocked when not), but honestly, the amount of current that would have changed between the switch 'active' and 'inactive' is like, in the 10s of milliamps. *Outside* (line power) fluctuations would have a bigger effect than that switch acting up, honestly.

it would also depend on HOW it was 'acting up in multiball'.. some issues wouldn't be related to power at all, but just switches missing or activating falsely..

#1880 3 years ago

Hello everybody. I've had my TZ for about two years now..(It is MY Holy Grail machine). Love it to death, but I'm ready to make some changes. I have the mirror blades and a few mods. What I would really like is pictures and recommendations for colors for doing the LED's. I'll be adding the color DMD, sometime within the next few months, but I really want to get the lights done and proper first than add the DMD as a finishing touch. I'm looking for fairly bright on the LED's I want it to really shine in the dark, and against the mirror blades. So if you are so inclined to want to share (PM) me your thoughts and pictures I'd really appreciate it.

#1881 3 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Unlikely, really.. In theory, it COULD have driven your +12v down enough to cause optos to fail (or report blocked when not), but honestly, the amount of current that would have changed between the switch 'active' and 'inactive' is like, in the 10s of milliamps. *Outside* (line power) fluctuations would have a bigger effect than that switch acting up, honestly.
it would also depend on HOW it was 'acting up in multiball'.. some issues wouldn't be related to power at all, but just switches missing or activating falsely..

I've been having strange problems with optos for awhile but have never really figured out why. During multiball balls where getting locked but not releasing and the game would not go into ball search mode. This problem along with optos picking up ghost balls would randomly happen and every time I tested the optos they would work fine. This was the first time I caught the switch flicker in test though and once I removed the wire everything functioned perfectly. Could just be a red herring though.

#1882 3 years ago
Quoted from CheapTrick33:

Hello everybody. I've had my TZ for about two years now..(It is MY Holy Grail machine). Love it to death, but I'm ready to make some changes. I have the mirror blades and a few mods. What I would really like is pictures and recommendations for colors for doing the LED's. I'll be adding the color DMD, sometime within the next few months, but I really want to get the lights done and proper first than add the DMD as a finishing touch. I'm looking for fairly bright on the LED's I want it to really shine in the dark, and against the mirror blades. So if you are so inclined to want to share (PM) me your thoughts and pictures I'd really appreciate it.

There are many different guys/companies who sell pinball LED's, mirror blades etc which may be a little less expensive but I found Cointaker had the best LED's & service. Melissa has visited with me on the phone several times helping me with my kit order & when I wanted to change a few things... she sent the different LED's right away.

#1883 3 years ago

For a vp project I'm looking for some help with a few measurements. Fast and easy, only some heights on the table. And one or two photos from a sideview of the right (metal) ramp.

Can somebody with a TZ please help? Thanx!

image_(resized).png

#1884 3 years ago

I installed a colordmd yesterday, flashed it with the 3.0 rom file and I love it

I noticed that during attraction mode, when the grand champion score is shown the first two vertical lines of the score (2.290.339.680) are yellow (the same color as the name), the dots in these two vertical lines are supposed to be white.
So far I only tested this in dot mode, but I assume it does the same in the other modes.

I e-mailed this info to the colordmd website hopefully they will fix this minor bug in a future update.
I would also like to see some color during the flipper bonus.

20160330_170511.jpg

* edit:
The people from colordmd allready knew about this glitch and are working on a proper solution,
they will also add more color to the flipperbonus screen in the upcoming updated firmware.

** edit:
Chris from colordmd has sent me an updated rom version.
he added color to the flipper bonus screen (the text is yellow now)
also he fixed the attraction mode grand champion score screen.

I suggested a couple more changes, lets hope they will be implemented in the next update as well.

#1885 3 years ago
Quoted from CheapTrick33:

Hello everybody. I've had my TZ for about two years now..(It is MY Holy Grail machine). Love it to death, but I'm ready to make some changes. I have the mirror blades and a few mods. What I would really like is pictures and recommendations for colors for doing the LED's. I'll be adding the color DMD, sometime within the next few months, but I really want to get the lights done and proper first than add the DMD as a finishing touch. I'm looking for fairly bright on the LED's I want it to really shine in the dark, and against the mirror blades. So if you are so inclined to want to share (PM) me your thoughts and pictures I'd really appreciate it.

I just bought the Coitaker led kit for it a couple of years ago and went with that.I only highlighted a few features in the back box and left the rest stock.Im happy with it. My Color dmd arrives next week.Looking forward to that.

#1886 3 years ago

chalkup8:

Thanks for the response...if you have a moment or two I would love to see some pictures of your TZ and lights. Right now I'm trying to decide to go with either Cointaker or Pinball Decals. PD has some very slick looking mirror led pop bumpers that I'm very seriously thinking about ordering. I do need to go to CT site and look and see what they have as well.

#1887 3 years ago

Aargh.

Well, may have found my issue with my switch matrix, though I'm not 100% sure.

Both times the 2803 chip blew, it took col 6 and col 8 driver on the upstream address chip with it. Now, one of my opto boards is dead. So, it may have been going for a while, and now reaching it EOL...

And, of course, NOONE has any in stock. You have GOT to be kidding me. I have guests coming over a week from tomorrow, and wanted to let them play my game..

#1888 3 years ago

Ouch, I don't envy your situation, there. Have you tried putting a DMM to the opto board components to see if there's and individual part that dies that you could just replace yourself? I'm sure Mouser might have something they could ship out pretty quick.

What kind of a signal or surge knocks out an opto board? Could one of the opto circuits be grounding out somewhere? Some fault in the power regulation on the board or to the board?

Let us know what you find. I think those of us with the original opto board still in our machines would be interested in what is happening.

I had a 2803 chip that was bad and was showing an error in column 7 which has some optos in it as well, particularly switch 71 which is not used. Threw me for a loop for the longest time! Cleaned all the optos, checked all the wiring in 71's row and column, resoldered a few things, changed the 2803 chip and now all is well(knock on wood).

#1889 3 years ago
Quoted from Miguel351:

Ouch, I don't envy your situation, there. Have you tried putting a DMM to the opto board components to see if there's and individual part that dies that you could just replace yourself? I'm sure Mouser might have something they could ship out pretty quick.
What kind of a signal or surge knocks out an opto board? Could one of the opto circuits be grounding out somewhere? Some fault in the power regulation on the board or to the board?
Let us know what you find. I think those of us with the original opto board still in our machines would be interested in what is happening.
I had a 2803 chip that was bad and was showing an error in column 7 which has some optos in it as well, particularly switch 71 which is not used. Threw me for a loop for the longest time! Cleaned all the optos, checked all the wiring in 71's row and column, resoldered a few things, changed the 2803 chip and now all is well(knock on wood).

My opto boards have been through hell - many items (chips, resistors) have been replaced on both (my game has two 7-opto boards), and it's gotten so hot from those power-limiting resistors that the solder mask has pretty much flaked away completely from the traces around those areas.

I'm *guessing* that the opto board was starting to act up, and sending out voltage onto the switch matrix - not the other way around. (Meaning, I'm thinking that the opto board caused the issues, not that something shorted to the matrix and blew out the 2803 and opto board.)

I didn't have time last night to poke at it - I found one board on ebay, but lord knows if it'll arrive in time, so tonight when I get back from the office I'll poke around the opto board and see if I can trace down what failed.

#1890 3 years ago

Crossing fingers….

#1891 3 years ago

Well.. no real luck yet. However, I think I've narrowed down something more to look at.

The +12vr powers only the Fliptronics board (EOS and button switches), the 8-driver board (col 9), MPU (8x8 matrix and direct switches). The opto board is operated via 12vu. So, the only thing that could fry *both* LM339's on the opto board would be the column driver. Since the row feeds are 4/3, 4 on one LM339 3 on the other, if one of those had high-voltage only that chip would have been affected, leaving the other one alright and operational. Col 8 (and Col 6) were blown out in the 2803, and the data decoder chip, so, that looks like it could be where to start looking. The downside, though, is that for Col 8 only serves the opto board and the lock-lower switch, so there's not much wire there to go shorting against anything.

#1892 3 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Well.. no real luck yet. However, I think I've narrowed down something more to look at.
The +12vr powers only the Fliptronics board (EOS and button switches), the 8-driver board (col 9), MPU (8x8 matrix and direct switches). The opto board is operated via 12vu. So, the only thing that could fry *both* LM339's on the opto board would be the column driver. Since the row feeds are 4/3, 4 on one LM339 3 on the other, if one of those had high-voltage only that chip would have been affected, leaving the other one alright and operational. Col 8 (and Col 6) were blown out in the 2803, and the data decoder chip, so, that looks like it could be where to start looking. The downside, though, is that for Col 8 only serves the opto board and the lock-lower switch, so there's not much wire there to go shorting against anything.

I can Fedex a board from my TZ if you'd like to borrow it for your party.

#1893 3 years ago
Quoted from scampcamp:

I can Fedex a board from my TZ if you'd like to borrow it for your party.

i *really* appreciate the offer - but I will pass. Mainly because until I have it sorted out, I don't wanna take the risk of frying your board either. Sometimes I don't mind borrowing boards (hell, i need a Gottlieb Sys 3 board) - but ONLY when I'm sure that I'm not going to destroy them - accidentally or on purpose.

#1894 3 years ago

Finally a member of this awesome club. My number 1 grail pin!

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#1895 3 years ago

for cheaptrick33

A couple of quick shots just taking now.Not the best but you get the idea.

Put the color DMD in last night,my fourth purchase color dmd. Expensive to get it to Australia at the current exchange rate. $629 shipped to my local post office,but such a great product.I'll get $200 back when I sell the original display.

IMG_2163_(resized).JPG

IMG_2165_(resized).JPG

#1896 3 years ago

Often the ball kicker on my TZ kicks the ball out of the trough, and the ball hits the post and bounces back in to the trough, and repeats until it finally it lands at the plunger after a bunch of tries.

Any experience with adjusting this??

#1897 3 years ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

Often the ball kicker on my TZ kicks the ball out of the trough, and the ball hits the post and bounces back in to the trough, and repeats until it finally it lands at the plunger after a bunch of tries.
Any experience with adjusting this??

mine did this when i got it, the ball shooter lane feeder was bent slightly.

#1898 3 years ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

Often the ball kicker on my TZ kicks the ball out of the trough, and the ball hits the post and bounces back in to the trough, and repeats until it finally it lands at the plunger after a bunch of tries.
Any experience with adjusting this??

Adjust the side angle of the ball trough shooter lane guide.
Bend the guide closest to the coin door (the end that is next to the ball eject) towards you slightly with a set of needle nose pliers position at a 45 degree angle and a soften terry rag over top of the guide itself to avoid "grip roughing" which will scratch your pinballs.
Do not use vise grips.
You will need to remove apron for proper access, but if you are careful and have a smaller set of pliers you can just do it with pulling the playfield out towards its first lock maintenance position after removal of the playfield glass.

#1899 3 years ago
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:

Adjust the side angle of the ball trough shooter lane guide.

Yup, gave the shooter lane ball rail a little extra bend. That did it. Thanks.

#1900 3 years ago

So my clock board is acting up again (original), i've fixed it a few times but at this point i'm ready to pony up the cash and get a replacement. I've IM'd germanpinball about the board he sells but haven't heard back from him yet. Found this replacement on ebay, anyone have any experience with this board? Good/Bad reviews? Thanks for any input.

ebay.com link » Brand New Clk001 Twilight Zone Clock Board For Twilight Zone Pinball Machines

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