This was a LCD mod that was 100% WORTH the money.
Thanks PinballMikeD, it was impressive work, and $600 when it was available.
It smoked the TZ TV mod like cheap cigar.

CFTBL Hologram MOD:

I also own a CftBL and wish I had this "holo" solution....

Anyway, talking about TZ mods, some people have plenty of money, some like to have lots of unnecessary toys in the PF, some don't care if they can view the ball or not.... I'm neither of those....

Same thing happens with TAF....

I've said many a time this is probably the best mod for TZ. If I only had 1 it would be that. Looks so much cleaner.

Definitely.

This one shows intros and clips. 6 to 8 minute highlights from about 14 episodes (about an hour of video). It doesn't look like a TV, so it's a little different. Available at both sparkypinball.com and mezelmods.com.

$119 on my website. Comes with a DK Pinball Power Tap.

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It's more of a novelty than "watching tv." I've sold more of the TSPP TV than any other title, and it's only a 1.7" screen.

TV mod I made was cheap and looked great. Just buy this Hallmark ornament. Gut it and install a socket in the back and tie it into the GI. Looks great!

ebay.com link: Hallmark 2009 The Twilight Zone Mint Condition

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Another pic....

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Yep I have it and its awesome and people are so amazed when they see it.

Have this also and its awesome. The video tz tv is awesome also and really cool in attract mode with the sound and full episodes

Noticed something odd tonight:

Turn on machine and I hear clicking, almost as if it's some kind of ball search. (but all balls are in place, sound is coming from the back). It stops after about 30 seconds.

So I play a game, seems normal. Then I light gumball and try to make the shot. I get around the orbit and it just keeps going (does not get to the gumball VUK)

I will hit up the manual and my good friend google, but i assume something is fubar and its probably simple. Anyone want to point me in the right direction?

Start by doing a gumball machine test in the operator menu. You won't know anything until you start testing game functions. At this time, "vague" is the best description.

Even a auto burn test in the Utility's menu may help

There is a diverter that sends the ball over to the gumball machine VUK called 'gumball diverter'. Use test 4 (solenoid), number 6 -repeat. You will hear it open/close in the test and if you stand on the right side of the game and look between the ramps, you can see it flip.

If that works, then the switch in the right orbit must not be working. It tells it to open when the ball is coming from the right. Do a switch test to confirm.

LOTR Breath, you mention "install a socket in the back and tie into the GI" I realize this is a pretty "green" question, but what kind of socket, where can i buy one, and what kind of wire / alligator clips should be used and where can I get those? I know how to tie into GI, have done on some other mods I've installed already, but don't know where to get the parts or what to buy.

I have the TV and tore the back off already, just need the other parts. Any help is greatly appreciated!

Thanks,
Justin

Where did you get the GIGANTIC Pyramid mod...have never seen that one. Really nice TZ BTW.

Also, what Speaker upgrade would you recommend? I'm debating between Pinball Pro and Flipper Fidelity (or would you reco other?)

Got it from a guy in Las Vegas who made his own, got it and the Saucer from him. Don't think he is still making them. The Pyramid is great. Hides that ugly diverter and the ball just travels through it.

Standard speakers. Tried upgrading the Speakers but it didn't make any difference so scrapped the idea.. Cant hear anything anyway with all the machines going.

I recommend a better pyramid.
The full size topper.

Pinball Pro, the ORIGINAL designer.
Unfortunately, the price is now $250.
They used to be less than $100 a long time ago.

Keep mind this topper is fragile.
Don't drop it, and mount it SECURELY.

Thanks for the suggestions! I pulled the glass off and took a quick visual inspection... Looks like during previous owners clean up b4 sale left some fragments of paper towel in a few places... Doh. So it was blocking the ball popper opto, so it thought there was a ball in there (which explains the noise)

Wooo hoo, back to normal, well kinda, clock is now broken but rather than dink with it (during clock test, hour hand is reporting funky times) I think im just gonna order ingo's board.

Ok, here is a new one (for me at least):

Played a game tonight and the sound seemed strange. When the powerball came out, it clearly recognized it as the DMD animation showed it, but no voice saying "powerball". And normally, when hitting the continue button, it says "Greed" but not this time (it was replaced with another sound, almost if the sound board knew something was up). I thought it was odd so i restarted the machine, it played fine for a while but started doing it again. Then. bam. no sound at all. Restarted it again, then its back to no voices but music plays fine.

I decided, F-it, im just gonna play for a while... a few games later, all sounds are fine.

Any thoughts? If the answer isnt obvious I will open up a thread about it.

I went ahead and just started a thread, any thoughts ideas or suggestions please let me know: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tz-sound-problems-voice-and-other-sounds-intermittently-drop-out#post-2933146

Re-burn sound ROM- sounds like the EPROM is getting flaky. (Returning bad addresses, etc..)

That sounds pretty logical, now that i know to listen for that gong sound (and the number of times it repeats) I will be more aware once I see it again.

I was considering upgrading the speakers and doing the pinsound board anyways, but would prefer not to rush that.

It's the only thing I can think of that fits all possibilities.. The other one being a bad ribbon cable (or noise on said ribbon cable..) - I believe in the other thread - which I don't know why I'm replying here and not there.. - you mentioned changing the cable out.

Try playing a few games with the display and fliptronics board ruibbon cable disconnected. See if the problem still happens. If it does, it's on the audio board and not another board introducing noise into the data channels.

I found a replacement choke sensor that works with the Pinpoint board! Best news is that it only cost 29 cents from Mouser. No more switch 26 error!

http://www.mouser.com/Search/m_ProductDetail.aspx?Bourns%2FRLB0712-101KL%2F&qs=Pnu8sm4aB7vLBx5Unny8ew%3D%3D

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Does anyone have some recommendations for cleaning up my shooter lane? The rest of the playfield looks great but this has become an eyesore. Is it a simple fix with some sandpaper and some clear coat? If so what kind of sandpaper and clear coat would you recommend.

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks

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There is some dirt there, but I think what you are seeing is more the color of the wood grain. I would just take a toothbrush and some Novus2 to it, then follow up with a coat or two of wax.

I've tried novus 2 and a tooth brush on there. Still can't seem to get the dirt out. I understand there is the color of the grain but the texture of the playfield around the groove is smooth from the clear coat and when I get to the darker color it is rough. That's why I was thinking of sanding a little bit then applying way or paint on some clear.

First:

800 to 3000 Grit Wet / Dry Sandpaper Assortment, Silicon Carbide, 9-Inch x 11-Inch
http://www.amazon.com/Sandpaper-Assortment-Silicon-Carbide-11-Inch/dp/B018QD94H2/ref=sr_1_4

Then:

Fix It Pro Simoniz Clear Coat Scratch Repair Filler and Sealer Large 1/4 Fl. Oz. (7.4mL) UV Sunlight Activated
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PEV7E6I/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl
(There are other "wider" tip sizes available)

If you want to speed it along use this:

Red Carpet Manicure Light Pro 45
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005XY43IS/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl

FWIW, I recently had to swap a dead speaker on my ToM. I ordered a pair of kicker 5.25 and also 3.5 inch speakers... The low end ones (CS series I think?) that are also have shallow tweeters so they fit just fine. I didn't want to modify the housing for putting two 5.25" in. They are sold in pairs so decided to swap both TZ and ToM since I had a pair of each size. I use a powered sub so don't really care about the cab speaker. Anyway, I don't notice much of a difference with TZ, but ToM sounds great. Even the low end kickers are probably overkill. I couldn't see spending the $ on the Pinball Pro kit... If I recall, each pair was about $30, give or take. So for $60, upgraded the two pins.

Thanks for the shooter lane tips! A couple of my pins look like that. Melted clearcoat is what my pin mechanic says.

Mine looks like this too, i'll probably be doing the same thing soonish

Just purchased the sandpaper and clear coat pen. Will put up before and after pictures after I am done.

Take your time.
Do not rush.
Get every bit of dirt out BEFORE sanding, as you will grind it into the wood grain.
Use the smallest grit necessary to do the job.
Clean up frequently with alcohol to inspect your work.
Be mindful, that anywhere you sand the CC is gone.
When satisfied to start touch up, give proper time to set and inspect your work with CC.
Repeat the process as necessary.

Smile when your shooter lane looks pretty again.

New owner here, just added a TZ to my lineup. I will have a few questions as time progresses. What a game, seems you need an audible instruction coach dictating in your ear as you play the game...Lots going on there on the playfield(s).

Next, there are those modifications. Wow! What a selection of mod's. I have always been a fan of the Twilight Zone series, have seen every episode since day one, and can relate to the characters that wind up being featured in the game. That said, I'm about ready to mod it a bit. However, all of my current machines are bone-stock and mint condition, so I need to be convinced.

My first thought is, remove the bulb lighting in the back box and replace it with LED strips - will reduce the total wattage used in the machine and keep those power supplies running cooler. Could even use a fluorescent lamp similar to current production machines.

Anyway, I'm in learning mode, and could use some advice.
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Never, EVER use flourescent when you don't HAVE to. The UV given off by those will ruin any and all plastics. There are three different strings of lights in the backbox, in different locations. I think your best bet would just to get frosted LED bulbs and be done with it.

Surprised nobody is talking about the hints from ColorDMD this week

Why?
Fluorescent lighting looks absolutely terrible.
LED strips is not an improvement over stock.
The backbox board included use of #455 for "twinkling" stars through pinholes in the translite, if the translite is original.

Tasteful LEDs might be better, but I prefer stock.

Unless your are running your machine 24/7, power supply/PCB strain and heat is minimal, if the game is in good repair.

Ah, thanks for clarifying that. I actually wouldn't use fluorescent bulbs, as they're about as old-school as they get. But, LED strings seem to be a good substitute - as long as you use the right intensity.

I was thinking on trying to reduce OVERALL power usage by weaning-in LED's to replace incandescent bulbs. I just need to decide whether to use self-contained LED bayonet/wedge bulbs, or adapt the 5050 string LED's to work with the lighting needs.

I realize there are LED makeover kits available, but the problem I'm picking up on is when there are power sags or surges from solenoids and magnets, the LED's tend to flicker which would be a major annoyance. I don't know if anyone has addressed this issue yet. A regulated power supply to the LED's would likely solve any flickering issues.

The black socketed bulbs on the back box must all be the flashing lamps it seems. Those would be a shoe-in for flashing LED bulbs, but the rest seem to be general illumination for the translite. It would make sense to replace those lamps with LED's.

I will be digging deep into this machine since my background is electronic and mechanical design, so the inventor hat goes on.

shhh don't jinx it! :p

this is what I have been looking at, but havent made the purchase yet, worth checking out: http://ledocd.com/

Do what you wanna do...in living color

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Awesome!

Color DMD looks AWESOME! Now to find the cash....

I have one (both LED and GI) in my ToM (only a few days now) and will likely get one for my TZ. While they are fantastic, the LEDs do still flicker slightly when flippers are hit. Some don't seem to notice it. I think it has to do with the transformer sag and LEDs being more sensitive to fluctuations.

I have both in my TZ, and love them. However - yes, coils draw a lot of power, and depending on the load and game, you'll see flicker no matter what. There's no real 'fix' for it, except to weaken the coils, which.. I'd live with the quick 'dim'. It's a LOT ledss noticeable with LEDs than incandescents, at least with LedOCD. (Never had LEDs in without the OCD.)

It still amazes me that Stern wants to use a standard DMD when ColorDMD and LCDs are already in use. Operators would like them as well if they were a bit more cost effective.

OK I got the mod itch, so here's my first TZ mod. I'm using the coin-on-the-edge scene from A Penny For Your Thoughts. I have four coins that are applicable, so I hot-glued them to a metal plate. Here is the result:
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I might add a Roosevelt dime to the bottom edge.
Comments, suggestions?

Show it installed!