I never knew, or noticed this! I always just thought it was the GI bulbs that dimmed. Do you know what other WPC games do this, or is it just Twilight Zone?

Almost all of them do, I believe - I think TAF was the first to do so. At the default level (power saving level 5, I believe) you really can't notice the controlled lamps dimming - but if you know it down to 4 or 3, you really see it. (Keep in mind now - my numbers may be off; my games have all been in storage for the last 18 months; and my memory is usually swiss cheese.) When I had all my games setup in my basement, I would set my WPCs into power-saving, as I would have to have all of them on if I only wanted to play one.

Just checked on my machine and mine hits the power post if I don't flip the upper left flipper. As a matter of fact, if I shoot the spiral hard from the lower left flipper (and gumball and magnet is not engaged) it hits the post and actually goes to the right upper flipper. So nowhere near straight down the middle.

I need to page the TZ whisperer Coyote

So I've owned this TZ for over 25yrs and it's been a tank. But recently it has developed a problem where the lock kickout is intermittently weak and fails to eject from the saucer.. especially when other balls are in the lock above it.

I inspected the coil assembly... it moves freely without any particular catching. I tried to make sure the plunger and it's movement is clear in it's travel.

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The mech is all OG and original mount holes, no extras... problem didn't appear after some work, etc.

Typing this post out... I realize the one thing I didn't really try is reseating connectors to the driver board in case of a poor connection there. But short of that... or the driver transistors being on the edge and not able to carry the current, I don't know what else to try. Sleeve and plunger are fine, coil has no signs of stress/burns. I considered removing the spring, as the spring does seem quite strong for the application.. but opt'd not to yet, fearing the plunger may not fall all the way down, and then short-stroke anyway.

In searching the thread, I do see one poster did remove the spring with success.. but this seems to be going around the problem vs fixing it. Any other input? I really don't want to pull the driver board (game is on location currently).. but beyond hail marys with connector J127.. any other ideas?

See the arm of the switch ? See the line on the switch arm on the flat end, kind of in the middle ?

Think the plunger is hitting it on the way out and losing power ?

LTG : )

I'd look at the IDC connection to the power driver board. Also check the solder connections on the coil. Could be loose IDC or cold solder joint.

The throw of the plunger really isn’t that long. Plus… the switch isn’t in that spot when a ball is on it…

Have you seen it happen?
Is it possible the ball is getting kicked out, hitting the metal wall just down from it some, and falling back into the saucer? I've had this happen a lot on mine honeslty - usually re-aiming the plunger (by way of the coil) has corrected it. It almost looks like your plunger is too far left ('up' in the picture's orientation), and therefore possibly it's not hitting the ball straight-on enough to give it enough momentum.

Like LTG says tho - double-check that when the ball is in the saucer, tht switch isn't getting bent out and potentially getting in the way as well.

(I've never had to remove my spring either - I honestly don't remember ever reading that as a fix, huh.)

Yes I watched it extensively when testing. I spared you all the videos because it is pretty self descriptive.. but for clarity.. here were the videos with both balls in and out of the saucer.

The unfun part is, eventually the game either gives up, or the balls get in a prop'd up spot where it's not triggering the switch enough, so the game sits there and just does nothing (I assume it believes the ball is in play). Bad news in a league game... The failure seems exaggerated by the balls stacked in the lock. Single balls tend to clear w/o issue.

Once I confirmed the coil action... I was concerned the alignment had to be the culprit. But it's tight, and there really is only the bracket you can bend to change it's position. I centered it as much as possible thinking it might be clipping the playfield.. but there is no way to change the angle or throw besides really it's left/right position.

It's gotta be low power to the coil.. and that can only mean the powerdriver board connection or driver circuit now I think.

Well… reseating pdb connectors didn’t help… they are OG but still look decent. Nothing horrible on the headers and the idcs… are still relatively snug.

Took out the coil spring and it is working decently for now. So hacked it will be i guess.

Yeah, that looks like low power. Or (for some reason?) shorter-than-usual stroke on the plunger. I wonder if perhaps the plastic tip is worn/broke off some? My game is still in storage (about 4 months left!!!) so I can't check mine at the moment..

At least glad the hack worked - if you do come across the issue, let us know!

If the plunger rests on a rubber grommet, be sure it is there and not worn. If the plunger is low in the coil, it won't get a full whack.

LTG : )

Thx but stopper is intact. It does look like ahort stroke firing to me… which is why i think its the driver transistor path getting limp. It’s not a very authoritative umph when it fires.

Don't know if this will help, but since Coyote's is in the shop, I pulled my glass and took this video. I think my plunger is higher up than yours at rest.

If all else checks out on the Power Driver Board, then I suspect the coil itself.

Can you do an OHM check on the coil? Is it getting weak? Is this coil the same as others in the game, maybe swap them?

I mean, honestly coils rarely get weak on their own - break open or short out, yeah. Guess it's possible that the wires soldered to the terminals could be hanging by a thread, and add some resistance, but unlikely; that'd be noticed.

Dammit, I want to get my game out so, so badly.

Good suggestion - but as the coil didn't show any signs of heat and was still firing, I didn't pursue with an ohm test to look for a partial short. If there was any sign of heat or lock-up I would normally check the resistance. It would have been a good sanity check here too...

Lugs were nice and fine, with no signs of failures at the connection.

Thx for taking the time and effort to film that!

I'd try a stronger coil at this point or ad a shooter tip, etc.

So on all of my WPC games I set the replay award to "extra ball" for one reason. To hear the knocker every time an extra ball is awarded. I set the replay value very high to avoid excess extra balls. Normally the replay value is raised when/if someone gets a replay making it even harder next time. My game running 9.4H doesn't increment the replay value. I have all of the settings set the same as my other WPC games which do increment the replay value. Any ideas? Is it a 9.4H thing?

Look for the replay boost setting that is what controls that if it has it.

A.1 13.

Also A.1 05 - set to Auto %

LTG : )

Yep, both of those are set correctly. Curious.

It could be... since it's a "free play only" rom maybe there was no need to adjust the replay score. Seems like a strange thing to change for basically no reason tho.

I'll check next time I put a few games through my TZ since I'm running 9.4H as well.

That was my assumption. Thanks for checking.

It should still be incrementing. Mine does (I may not have my game out at the moment - but I DO specifically remember this). It's possible you have it SO HIGH that it's not adjusting any more, OR - your configured % is being met as is, so that it's not needed to be adjusted. (Try lowering the replay %, so that the game feels it needs to rise it up more.)

Pretty odd behavior my twilight zone is exhibiting. Could be a larger more WPC oriented issue but since it's happening on Twilight I'll post here for now.

My game has been restoring factory software settings on its own, but NOT exhibiting normal low battery issues when you normally see this happen. The high scores, custom message, and time + date are all kept accurate, but all the software and pricing settings are brought back to factory. Extremely clean cpu and boardset in general. New caps, bridges, and 5v regulator within the year. Currently running lithium AA batteries which measure at 1.77v each. Running 9.2 code.

Certainly odd. Anybody have any ideas or places to start looking?

Well I don't think it works on 9.4H. I reset all related settings to factory. Nothing. Then I lowered the replay % as you suggested. Nothing. No biggie. Just curious. I get what I wanted. The knocker on all extra balls.

Bad ram chip?

I can say it does work - it works on mine. Everytime I reset to factory, it drops to 250mil. Then as I beat my game up, it'll max out at over a billion.

I would then do a factory reset. Let it start from scratch...

Interesting thought. Any way to determine this other than just swapping and hoping for the best?

Just thinking that because not having correct checksum boot to boot for audits and adjustments also factory resets. If it's socketed go for it.

I'm considering buying a unmodded, nice condition TZ that will definitely need a full shop. I have a good set of pictures and believe it to be a working game but may not have a chance to test everything before hand. I can do the shop but, in general, are the major boards, parts available that commonly need replacing such as scoop weldments, etc?

Pretty much everything you could possibly need is available. It is one of the easiest games to resurrect. Popularity has a lot to do with that.
I would do the shop job and replace only what is broken. No need to have a huge stash of parts for a TZ.

Any good source for original plastics?

Are you looking for OEM or new reproduction? The best place to get a new reproduction set at the moment is Planetary Pinball.

https://www.planetarypinball.com/pinball-31-1765-COMP

OEM if possible

Hello guys, how are you doing? here from Argentina I joined the Tz group. Thank you for sharing such valuable information. I have several improvements ahead of me but the most important thing is that it is already home!!! greetings alex. !

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IMG-20240818-WA0051 (resized).jpeg

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Nice example.
Congradulations.
Have fun.

I have a few quality TZ mods available at fair prices:

1955 Red Thunderbird Mod (Pinball Decals Version)
Talky Tina (Currently Out of Stock at Pinballmods)
Rocket w/ orange exhaust (Pinballmods)
Ultimate Slot Machine (Long sold out @ Pinball Decals)
Chrome Rocket (old style mod)

Please message me if interested- Thanks.

Is there any real value to upgrading the switches on the mini playfield to the small ones? Do they function better or anything or is sticking with the original work just as well.

Original is fine. The switch upgrade just offers a cleaner look.

Does anybody have new condition original Bally spare plastic pieces. Recently bought an incomplete NOS set and would like to complete it with some of the missing pieces if I can.

It depends on what pieces you're looking for.

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The ones that aren’t blacked out

Couple of questions- is there anybody that has or sells the number 26 switch proximity sensor switch that have them in stock?

When the ball shoots from the rocket on the right, short, it hit the black stand-up post, or should it go under the mini playfield? On the game I’m working on, if there is a rubber on this mini post that I’m pointing to, then it does hit the black standup post under the mini playfield, if you remove the rubber, then it goes under the mini playfield. The ball is clearly hitting the rubber, so I’m just curious what should happen?

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Supposed to shoot under the mini PF to the pop area

I don't even have that post on my game. It should launch under the mini playfield. Unscrew those 2 screws there and look at how that is assembled. I forget which one but one of those screw hole on the ball guide is slotted so you can adjust the angle at which the ball launches out of there.