(Topic ID: 63352)

Twilight Zone Owner's club

By Caucasian2Step

10 years ago


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#15251 50 days ago
Quoted from mbaumle:

I’m having an issue with the clock:
In test, the clock operates perfectly. All optos register fine.
In game, when a timed mode starts, the clock will set itself to count down. About 5 seconds in, regardless of the mode, the clock “cancels” the time and quickly resets itself back to 12 o’clock position. Almost as if it’s being overridden.
Thoughts?

I know I'm 3 months late, but I have (tentatively) fixed this problem, and I just want to post an update:

I decided to just disassemble the clock, clean all the gears and re-assemble it. I dabbed in some teflon silicone grease in the gear train, checked all the connectors, and put it all back into the game. First off, my clock before cleaning it was noisy and would make horrible grinding noises. I probably should've cleaned it up way sooner, but I was always intimidated by it.

It's really a simple mech, you just have to be careful with the black gear position. After reassembly, the clock is now smooth as butter and very quiet. I ran it through a small battery of tests, and it's been fine, so I'm going to consider this case closed unless the problem decides to rear it's head again.

I have a feeling that the clock gears were getting jammed and the game was flagging it as a "soft failure" and that was the source of my issues.

#15252 50 days ago
Quoted from PinRetail:

Glad you are working!
Eliminating the 'Z' connector, and replacing the pins on the board on J101 (+5v power in) and J114 (+5v out) on the power driver board and J210 (+5v) on the CPU board, then clipping off the IDC plugs for these connectors and replacing them with crimp and stuff trifurcon is where I usually have to go to get reliable operation lately.

Is there a good guide on how to eliminate the Z-connector? I saw the picture in Pinwiki, but failed to understand what was done to the wires. Some sort of before & after would help out.

#15253 50 days ago
Quoted from LePopHumper:

Is there a good guide on how to eliminate the Z-connector? I saw the picture in Pinwiki, but failed to understand what was done to the wires. Some sort of before & after would help out.

You’re literally just removing the connector from the circuit. So, cut the leftmost wires from both sides of the connector, strip, solder them together and protect it with heat shrink tubing. Now move on to the second from leftmost wires, repeat until all wires no longer pass through the z-connector.

#15254 50 days ago

Hi TZ owners,

I just thought I'd share my recent issue with a weak UL flipper and the solution.

My upper-left flipper was acting very weak, like only the low power part of the coil was working. The LL flipper and both right flippers were working just fine. I checked the UL flipper assembly. It is fine, no binding in any way. I checked the UL coil. Voltage at the coil was good, and resistance on both parts of the coil was fine.

I immediately thought this might be the opto board. I replaced the flipper opto board with a new one. Same problem. I tested the optos on BOTH the old opto board and the new board. The transmitters and receivers are working just fine. The actuator had been painted black by me a long time ago, and the actuator was closing both optos.

So, I go into checking the Flippertronics II board. All transistors test good. Solder joints on components and headers are good.

This was an issue with the IDC connectors, specifically J906 to the flippertronics board. In the process of testing things I got a "Check UL EOS" error. I reseated the wires to J906 firmly using a small blade screwdriver, and the "Check UL EOS" error went away. This was after I could NOT get the switch to recognize a closure at the flipper assembly and fully checking the switches wiring at the flipper assembly. I also suspected the ribbon cable as I did get a "soundboard interface error" while running switch tests.

I really thought this was going to be opto related, but it was the IDC on J905 and 906 and a wonky ribbon cable connection.

I hope this helps somebody out at some point. Thanks for reading, mk

#15255 50 days ago
Quoted from mkdud:

Hi TZ owners,
I just thought I'd share my recent issue with a weak UL flipper and the solution.
My upper-left flipper was acting very weak, like only the low power part of the coil was working. The LL flipper and both right flippers were working just fine. I checked the UL flipper assembly. It is fine, no binding in any way. I checked the UL coil. Voltage at the coil was good, and resistance on both parts of the coil was fine.
I immediately thought this might be the opto board. I replaced the flipper opto board with a new one. Same problem. I tested the optos on BOTH the old opto board and the new board. The transmitters and receivers are working just fine. The actuator had been painted black by me a long time ago, and the actuator was closing both optos.
So, I go into checking the Flippertronics II board. All transistors test good. Solder joints on components and headers are good.
This was an issue with the IDC connectors, specifically J906 to the flippertronics board. In the process of testing things I got a "Check UL EOS" error. I reseated the wires to J906 firmly using a small blade screwdriver, and the "Check UL EOS" error went away. This was after I could NOT get the switch to recognize a closure at the flipper assembly and fully checking the switches wiring at the flipper assembly. I also suspected the ribbon cable as I did get a "soundboard interface error" while running switch tests.
I really thought this was going to be opto related, but it was the IDC on J905 and 906 and a wonky ribbon cable connection.
I hope this helps somebody out at some point. Thanks for reading, mk

My UL flipper is acting up as well. Seems intermittent. I'll check those connectors as I've already spot checked the mech and optos. Thanks for the tip.

#15256 48 days ago
Quoted from PinRetail:

Basics:
Apply power.
Open the backbox, look at the LED's on the boards.
Your manual is here:
https://www.ipdb.org/files/2684/Bally_1993_Twilight_Zone_Operations_Manual_OCR_searchable.pdf
Look on PDF page 54. In particular we want to see the three LED's on the upper left corner of the CPU board (skinny tall board in the left side of the backbox).
From the pinwiki:
D19 (LED201) - "Blanking". This LED should light when power is applied, then after about 1 second, go off and stay off. If D19 remains on, this is an indication that the blanking circuit is turned on which prevents the game from powering coils. The blanking circuit was implemented to eliminate the possibility of damaging the game due to locked on coils when the CPU isn't operating properly.
D20 (LED203) - "Diagnostics". Once the blanking LED turns off, this LED should begin blinking and remain blinking as long as the game is turned on. This LED is a simple "I'm working" indication from the MPU. This LED is toggled from pin 35 of the ASIC (DLED signal). D20 will also indicate basic issues with the MPU by blinking as such...
One blink - problem with the game ROM.
Two blinks - problem with the game RAM (or accessing the RAM, i.e. open traces).
Three blinks - problem with the ASIC (WPC) or a problem with the security chip (WPC-S and WPC-95).
D21 (LED202) - "5VDC present". This LED provides a simple indication of the presence of 5VDC. This LED isn't CPU controlled. It's illuminated as long as 5VDC is present.
All the CPU needs to work these LED's is +5v, but the +5v circuits in WPC games are becoming more fragile. The WPC computer will 'reset' if the +5v is compromised, so you need to at least read through everything in the pinwiki about WPC resets:
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_WPC#Game_resets
Finally, the last eight or ten Twilight Zone pinballs I've worked on have bad capacitors on the opto board under the playfield, and the motor controller board for the clock.
Almost all of these have visible signs of corrosion on the opto board metal bracket beside the 100uf 35v capacitor when you pull the board off the bottom of the game.
Even if this capacitor looks good, the corrosion is definitely a sign that it's bad, and even if you don't have corrosion, when you put your soldering iron on the capacitor leads to remove it, you'll smell the electrolyte.
There is also a 'C2' 100uf 35v capacitor on the Power Driver board that was probably from the same batch that likely needs attention. It's next to the smaller heat sink to the left of Q2.
These aren't your problem, but these 100uf 35v capacitors are likely to be 'A' problem in your game. It's easier to look at these now than to wait for the corrosion to eat up your boards and cause problems later.
You noticed warmer resistors. The 2803 chip supplies power to the switch matrix, through those resistors. Other resistors are cooler because they don't supply power. It's normal for these resistors to be warmer, that's not likely your problem because the whole game is down, not just a switch problem.
To sum up:
I think you've got a +5v power problem. This is likely a fuse, but could be any of the many, many things that cause 'WPC resets'.
Look at your CPU board LED's. If they aren't activating normally, check the fuses (F113 is a good place to start), with a meter, you can't check fuses by looking at them. Then check lots of things that are indicated in the WPC resets section of the pinwiki.
Let us know what you find.

Thank you very much for the detailed instructions on what to look for!

We fixed the machine today!!! Yay!!!

So what we tested the first was the +5VDC on TP2. It gave 4.87V there, so determined that it should be fine. Then checked the +5VDC on the CPU board and it was 4.83V so that's good too. Still the board was stuck, so we changed the CPU board to another one from Doctor Who, connected only the J210 for power, and that seemed to work.

At that point we decided to change the CPU card from DrWho to TZ, but after connecting all the IDC cables the board was stuck again. Then we grabbed all the IDC connectors off and connected them one by one, until we found out that connecting the DMD board via the cable got the CPU stuck. DrWho as a donor, we changed the DMD board, put the old CPU board back, and the machine worked flawlessly!

Now, any ideas what could be the problem on the DMD board A-14039? I got it from my friend and was interested in fixing that, so any suggestions are welcomed.

#15257 47 days ago

Ground short row 3 issue though A-16807 opto board.
The TZ i have recently acquired has this problem – I have traced it to the 10-opto board, A-16807. The problem goes away when I disconnect the board from CPU by unplugging the J5 on the 16807. The problem persists when and all other connectors on this board are removed (J1,2,3,4) except the J5 which suggest the problem with the board opto board itself. I have done some basic component and continuity tests on a disconnected board (diodes, resistors all within specs, traces from LM335 around the affected path(s) seem OK, replaced all the LM335s but to no avail. My knowledge to further troubleshoot is too limited (whenever optos are involved I am at loss) so if anyone has suggestion on where to start looking deeper (measure voltages, logic probes, etc) I would appreciate this greatly. The game had work done on this board already, the Us are socketed (not a best job by far) so anything is possible, including a sloppy prior work. Cheers

#15258 46 days ago

Hey folks,

I have an extra Pin2DMD for anyone looking to upgrade from the stock orange dots - $250 shipped: Comes programmed, licensed, activated, and includes power harness. 10 minute easy plug and play install - and looks amazing. Pics:

TZ.thumb.gif.33a48eb6da003498a7958b3a898bbf5a (resized).pngTZ.thumb.gif.33a48eb6da003498a7958b3a898bbf5a (resized).pngpyramid-complete.gif.2ee4c4138c984c28e4e68b9b7d8df327 (resized).pngpyramid-complete.gif.2ee4c4138c984c28e4e68b9b7d8df327 (resized).pnghitchhikers.thumb.gif.d70b946828d4a85414dac39ffdbc14b9 (resized).pnghitchhikers.thumb.gif.d70b946828d4a85414dac39ffdbc14b9 (resized).pngrobots.gif.1255cd94b8bc78436bd587890b48c1e4 (resized).pngrobots.gif.1255cd94b8bc78436bd587890b48c1e4 (resized).png1500563029_clockchaostotal.gif.47bda58b50d56b6932f4373f0b20cddd (resized).png1500563029_clockchaostotal.gif.47bda58b50d56b6932f4373f0b20cddd (resized).png

Please PM if any interest and as always, thanks for looking!

Pete

#15259 46 days ago

I have one of these in my TZ, from andrew at retrocity but same/same and I'm very happy with it. I think there are about 2% unfinished areas in it but really good otherwise.

#15260 46 days ago
Quoted from jrcmlc:

I have one of these in my TZ, from andrew at retrocity but same/same and I'm very happy with it. I think there are about 2% unfinished areas in it but really good otherwise.

jrcmlc can you please help me where to find the color files or who to contact for it?

Thanks
Tom

#15261 46 days ago

vpinuniverse has the color files for pin2dmd in their downloads section.
https://vpuniverse.com/files/

#15262 45 days ago

Talk to Retrocity-Arcade

Quoted from 2x286ps:jrcmlc can you please help me where to find the color files or who to contact for it?
Thanks
Tom

#15263 43 days ago
Quoted from groobo:

Ground short row 3 issue though A-16807 opto board.
The TZ i have recently acquired has this problem – I have traced it to the 10-opto board, A-16807. The problem goes away when I disconnect the board from CPU by unplugging the J5 on the 16807. The problem persists when and all other connectors on this board are removed (J1,2,3,4) except the J5 which suggest the problem with the board opto board itself. I have done some basic component and continuity tests on a disconnected board (diodes, resistors all within specs, traces from LM335 around the affected path(s) seem OK, replaced all the LM335s but to no avail. My knowledge to further troubleshoot is too limited (whenever optos are involved I am at loss) so if anyone has suggestion on where to start looking deeper (measure voltages, logic probes, etc) I would appreciate this greatly. The game had work done on this board already, the Us are socketed (not a best job by far) so anything is possible, including a sloppy prior work. Cheers

The capacitor on the opto board is almost always the first component to fail. I would replace that and reevaluate before troubleshooting further.

#15264 39 days ago

Please advise if you can,

I recently replaced the switches on my power field with the low-profile switches from pinball life, and added some LED posts.

I am having a really difficult time getting the mini PF back into place. I removed the screw on the habitrail, and have loosened the right-side nut with the spring that mounts the mini pf.

Can I please get some advice on re-installing the mini-pf from those who have installed the switch kit? What order did you do things in? I'm having a hard time just getting the harness plugs in place to go through the main playfield. This switch kit seems to have changed the proportion and height of things whereas it won't fit the same as the original setup. Please help if you can. Thanks, mk

powefield switches (resized).JPGpowefield switches (resized).JPG
#15265 39 days ago
Quoted from mkdud:

Please advise if you can,
I recently replaced the switches on my power field with the low-profile switches from pinball life, and added some LED posts.
I am having a really difficult time getting the mini PF back into place. I removed the screw on the habitrail, and have loosened the right-side nut with the spring that mounts the mini pf.
Can I please get some advice on re-installing the mini-pf from those who have installed the switch kit? What order did you do things in? I'm having a hard time just getting the harness plugs in place to go through the main playfield. This switch kit seems to have changed the proportion and height of things whereas it won't fit the same as the original setup. Please help if you can. Thanks, mk
[quoted image]

I’ve installed the kit and have removed/reinstalled several times after that without issue, so can’t imagine the kit would be to blame (assuming of course you have it properly reinstalled). I just feed the word harnesses in one at a time and install as normal from there.

#15266 39 days ago
Quoted from mkdud:

Please advise if you can,
I recently replaced the switches on my power field with the low-profile switches from pinball life, and added some LED posts.
I am having a really difficult time getting the mini PF back into place. I removed the screw on the habitrail, and have loosened the right-side nut with the spring that mounts the mini pf.
Can I please get some advice on re-installing the mini-pf from those who have installed the switch kit? What order did you do things in? I'm having a hard time just getting the harness plugs in place to go through the main playfield. This switch kit seems to have changed the proportion and height of things whereas it won't fit the same as the original setup. Please help if you can. Thanks, mk
[quoted image]

Do the plugs one at a time slowly and everything will fit through the hole.

Slide the top end of the mini PF in first, but don't screw it down yet. Connect the right side and tighten slightly.

My switch kit is several years old, so may be different design. The left/outer bracket can get in the way of the latching Mini PF clamp. I had to tweak mine a little to get it to fit inside the cabinet and reach the bolt.

The right side bolt can be used to level the mini PF side to side, so tighten accordingly. Tighten left and top screws and connect the connectors.

#15267 38 days ago

I wanted to share with others this mod I made.
I bought these: ebay.com link: itm
You can get them the size and color you want to fit the size of speakers of your game.
I connected them to TP1 in the backbox but I had to give a gap between the speakers and the LED rings so that the speakers are really well lit.
I like the results but the pictures does'nt give it justice, speakers look pink in pictures but they are blue.

IMG_0471 (resized).JPGIMG_0471 (resized).JPGIMG_0472 (resized).JPGIMG_0472 (resized).JPG

#15268 38 days ago
Quoted from GILV:

I wanted to share with others this mod I made.
I bought these: ebay.com link: itm
You can get them the size and color you want to fit the size of speakers of your game.
I connected them to TP1 in the backbox but I had to give a gap between the speakers and the LED rings so that the speakers are really well lit.
I like the results but the pictures does'nt give it justice, speakers look pink in pictures but they are blue.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Very cool. Thanks for sharing. I have the stock speakers still. Any idea the size led ring that would fit?

#15269 37 days ago
Quoted from Green-Machine:

Very cool. Thanks for sharing. I have the stock speakers still. Any idea the size led ring that would fit?

I have no idea but with the stock speakers, you have a small tweater and a bigger speaker on the other side, both sides won't look the same.
I bought 8mm for my speaker, fit just right.
Edit:80mm and not 8mm.

#15270 37 days ago
Quoted from GILV:

I have no idea but with the stock speakers, you have a small tweater and a bigger speaker on the other side, both sides won't look the same.
I bought 8mm for my speaker, fit just right.

Ah yeah I forgot. Been awhile since I’ve been into the backbox. Thanks

#15271 37 days ago
Quoted from awesome1:

Do the plugs one at a time slowly and everything will fit through the hole.

Slide the top end of the mini PF in first, but don't screw it down yet. Connect the right side and tighten slightly.

My switch kit is several years old, so may be different design. The left/outer bracket can get in the way of the latching Mini PF clamp. I had to tweak mine a little to get it to fit inside the cabinet and reach the bolt.

The right side bolt can be used to level the mini PF side to side, so tighten accordingly. Tighten left and top screws and connect the connectors.

Thanks awesome1 and atg1469, I got it installed. It really looks good and works very well. It took me time to get the posts adjusted so the switches have the correct tension. I added some LED posts and wired them to the powerfield 500k lamp.

I love my new powerfield! Thanks, mk

20240609_193751 (resized).jpg20240609_193751 (resized).jpg
#15272 37 days ago
Quoted from mkdud:

Thanks awesome1 and atg1469, I got it installed. It really looks good and works very well. It took me time to get the posts adjusted so the switches have the correct tension. I added some LED posts and wired them to the powerfield 500k lamp.
I love my new powerfield! Thanks, mk[quoted image]

I'm debating getting the lights for the posts, possibly for all 8. I think the switch kit I got also allows me to wiring them to the switches opened or closed so they turn on or off during a hit.

#15273 37 days ago
Quoted from SiN13:

I'm debating getting the lights for tge posts, possibly for all 8. I think the switch kit I got also allows me to wiring them to the switches opened or closed so they turn on or off during a hit.

I'm guessing you will be using the 2nd switch from the kit that is labeled "Mods"? How would you wire this to light the posts when a hit is registered? What line would you be tapping to get the voltage for the LED posts? This is a really great idea that you had! Thanks, mk

#15274 37 days ago
Quoted from mkdud:

I'm guessing you will be using the 2nd switch from the kit that is labeled "Mods"? How would you wire this to light the posts when a hit is registered? What line would you be tapping to get the voltage for the LED posts? This is a really great idea that you had! Thanks, mk

Others here have done it, that's what made me think of doing it. My switch kit has 2 switches per PCB, with 2 pads on the back for one switch on the switch matrix, and then 3 pads for the other switch to wire up the LEDs in the posts, one pad for common, and then either normally open or normally closed depending if you want the light to come on or go off when hit. I guess you draw power from a nearby GI socket.

IMG_5612 (resized).jpegIMG_5612 (resized).jpegIMG_5613 (resized).jpegIMG_5613 (resized).jpeg

#15275 37 days ago

Just wanted to mention we now only have 5 of the 3rd magnet kits in stock, available in our Pinside store or by pm. Thanks

#15276 37 days ago

Help! I'm old school and want to use the tinted/smoked ramp for T.Z but can't find it after searching all over, anyone have any luck finding one who can send me a link? TIA

#15277 37 days ago
Quoted from SiN13:

Others here have done it, that's what made me think of doing it. My switch kit has 2 switches per PCB, with 2 pads on the back for one switch on the switch matrix, and then 3 pads for the other switch to wire up the LEDs in the posts, one pad for common, and then either normally open or normally closed depending if you want the light to come on or go off when hit. I guess you draw power from a nearby GI socket.
[quoted image][quoted image]

If you do end up going this route, please take a few pics of the install and setup. I’d love to do this on my machines as well but I’ve been confused about how the power source would work for the LEDs.

#15278 36 days ago
Quoted from atg1469:

If you do end up going this route, please take a few pics of the install and setup. I’d love to do this on my machines as well but I’ve been confused about how the power source would work for the LEDs.

Out of everyone in here I figured you had done this already. This is a quick mock up of how I'm guessing this would be wired. These are all on the NC pad of the switch so they should always be lit until the switch is closed from a ball hit when they will then turn off for a brief second. Wiring to the NO pad would reverse this. The actual wiring of this diagram could either be done by daisy chaining from pad to pad on the shared lines or running individual wiring under the playfield to a common junction point. A daisy chain would probably be less of a mess, all depends on how you want to manage the wiring.

twilight_zone_pf_light_posts_switch_diagram (resized).jpgtwilight_zone_pf_light_posts_switch_diagram (resized).jpg
#15279 36 days ago
Quoted from SiN13:

Out of everyone in here I figured you had done this already. This is a quick mock up of how I'm guessing this would be wired. These are all on the NC pad of the switch so they should always be lit until the switch is closed from a ball hit when they will then turn off for a brief second. Wiring to the NO pad would reverse this. The actual wiring of this diagram could either be done by daisy chaining from pad to pad on the shared lines or running individual wiring under the playfield to a common junction point. A daisy chain would probably be less of a mess, all depends on how you want to manage the wiring.[quoted image]

Haha! I got lazy and forgot to get back around to it, but now I feel re-inspired to give it a shot! Really appreciate the input, I agree a daisy chain would be the cleanest route and I’d love to get away from needing the matrix connectors if I can.

#15280 35 days ago

Has anyone experienced random shooter lane gate closures after a ball drain? Ball drains, gate closes, next ball ejects into auto plunge lane, ball gets auto plunged. Happens maybe 1 in10 drains. I've checked all of the obvious bits. Trough switches, connections etc...

#15281 35 days ago

I'm battling a reset problem on my Twilight Zone. Working with my tech, we've already replaced all the caps on the power board, the bridge rectifiers seem OK (they've been replaced earlier at some point), and we also put in a new set of ribbon cables.

I thought it was finally fixed as it didn't happen for a few weeks, but then last night we had a reset again. What else do we need to check/replace?

Thanks!

#15282 35 days ago
Quoted from dboeren:

I'm battling a reset problem on my Twilight Zone. Working with my tech, we've already replaced all the caps on the power board, the bridge rectifiers seem OK (they've been replaced earlier at some point), and we also put in a new set of ribbon cables.
I thought it was finally fixed as it didn't happen for a few weeks, but then last night we had a reset again. What else do we need to check/replace?
Thanks!

Mine use to do the same, you can figure out what your problem could be by reseating a few times J114, if the problem persists then try reseating the Z connector a few times, I'm pretty sure the problem is with one of those 2 connectors.
For the Z connector, you can remove it by soldering the wires together, as for the J114 connector, you can just repin the connector with new pins.
I was planning on doing those 2 things on my TZ soon.

Edit: I've solved my resetting problems only by resseating J114 a few times. I know it's not a permanent solution but it's only a test to see what's causing the resetting issues.

#15283 35 days ago
Quoted from dboeren:

I'm battling a reset problem on my Twilight Zone. Working with my tech, we've already replaced all the caps on the power board, the bridge rectifiers seem OK (they've been replaced earlier at some point), and we also put in a new set of ribbon cables.

I thought it was finally fixed as it didn't happen for a few weeks, but then last night we had a reset again. What else do we need to check/replace?

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_WPC#Game_resets

Follow the entire advice in the article.

#15284 35 days ago
Quoted from SimplePin:

Has anyone experienced random shooter lane gate closures after a ball drain? Ball drains, gate closes, next ball ejects into auto plunge lane, ball gets auto plunged. Happens maybe 1 in10 drains. I've checked all of the obvious bits. Trough switches, connections etc...

I had this issue on mine, turned out the gate itself was slightly magnified if memory serves.

#15285 35 days ago
Quoted from dboeren:

I'm battling a reset problem on my Twilight Zone. Working with my tech, we've already replaced all the caps on the power board, the bridge rectifiers seem OK (they've been replaced earlier at some point), and we also put in a new set of ribbon cables.
I thought it was finally fixed as it didn't happen for a few weeks, but then last night we had a reset again. What else do we need to check/replace?
Thanks!

Definitely check the z connector going from the power driver board to the cpu board. I'd go ahead and replace it with a new one or eliminate all together.

#15286 35 days ago
Quoted from atg1469:

I had this issue on mine, turned out the gate itself was slightly magnified if memory serves.

I can understand that. I've seen some evidence of magnetism. Sometimes it will stick closed. If I barely touch it, it will open. What was your resolution? Did you replace the gate?

#15287 35 days ago
Quoted from dboeren:

I'm battling a reset problem on my Twilight Zone. Working with my tech, we've already replaced all the caps on the power board, the bridge rectifiers seem OK (they've been replaced earlier at some point), and we also put in a new set of ribbon cables.
I thought it was finally fixed as it didn't happen for a few weeks, but then last night we had a reset again. What else do we need to check/replace?
Thanks!

If everything else checks out, it is probably the 5 volt voltage regulator on the driver board. I had to replace several of them on this era of game.

#15288 34 days ago
Quoted from SimplePin:

I can understand that. I've seen some evidence of magnetism. Sometimes it will stick closed. If I barely touch it, it will open. What was your resolution? Did you replace the gate?

Mine is magnetized too; I just kinda live with it. Usually a flipper press is enough to get it back to the non-activated position.

Weir everywhere! =)

#15289 34 days ago
Quoted from SimplePin:

I can understand that. I've seen some evidence of magnetism. Sometimes it will stick closed. If I barely touch it, it will open. What was your resolution? Did you replace the gate?

This is all I had to replace to get mine fixed up: https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=A-11516

Realizing now I wasn't 100% clear in my last post, it wasn't the gate itself that was magnetized but I think this plate was slightly sticking. Either way, replacing this cleared it right up for me.

#15290 34 days ago
Quoted from SiN13:

Out of everyone in here I figured you had done this already. This is a quick mock up of how I'm guessing this would be wired. These are all on the NC pad of the switch so they should always be lit until the switch is closed from a ball hit when they will then turn off for a brief second. Wiring to the NO pad would reverse this. The actual wiring of this diagram could either be done by daisy chaining from pad to pad on the shared lines or running individual wiring under the playfield to a common junction point. A daisy chain would probably be less of a mess, all depends on how you want to manage the wiring.[quoted image]

BTW...took the time to pull out the mini PF last night and make these changes, and your diagram worked like a charm! Don't get me wrong, it was still a pain in the butt to disassemble and rewire everything, but I was able to get rid of some of the former Comet Matrix connections and clean things up in-general. The final effect is subtle but very cool! Really appreciate you taking the time to put the simple roadmap together and hope others will put it to use as well!

#15291 34 days ago
Quoted from SiN13:

This is a quick mock up of how I'm guessing this would be wired. These are all on the NC pad of the switch so they should always be lit until the switch is closed from a ball hit when they will then turn off for a brief second. Wiring to the NO pad would reverse this.

Nice SiN13 and atg1469. Good diagram SiN13. I am eventually going to try this, but I'm installing my Sparky TV first. I also have to order more LED posts; I'm going to light the bottom sections as well.

I'll post my progress when I start doing this. Thanks again, mk

#15292 34 days ago
Quoted from mkdud:

Nice SiN13 and atg1469. Good diagram SiN13. I am eventually going to try this, but I'm installing my Sparky TV first. I also have to order more LED posts; I'm going to light the bottom sections as well.
I'll post my progress when I start doing this. Thanks again, mk

Lighting from the bottom is a good look, you’ll dig it!

IMG_1910 (resized).jpegIMG_1910 (resized).jpegIMG_1911 (resized).jpegIMG_1911 (resized).jpeg
#15293 29 days ago

I dig it.....
What's the process to light under the mini playfield?

#15294 29 days ago
Quoted from GILV:

I dig it.....
What's the process to light under the mini playfield?

Just added some cob LED lighting that I found on AliExpress. Used comet matrix connectors for power.

#15295 26 days ago

Went to help a local repair technician with two machines today. One was a Twilight Zone.

It presented as https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_WPC#Check_Fuses_F115_and_F116_Message and initial further investigation showed +12VU was present at the Custom Opto SW10 board (LED was illuminated). I looked at the board from the front and everything looked fine. When I went to the other side of the machine to look at something and the back revealed the issue.

I don't have an image of the back since this post is didactic for the insidious nature of this problem.

Friends don't let their Twilight Zone owning friends let the capacitor on the Custom Opto SW10 board leak.

This shows the front of the board. Note the capacitor has been removed but if you put it back in place you can't see anything wrong.

00_tz_custom_opto_sw10.jpg00_tz_custom_opto_sw10.jpg

Just look at how the capacitor has spewed its contents within the confines of the silkscreen. It's truly amazing. It's like the electrolyte knows exactly where to stop spreading so it can hide its destructive nature.

01_tz_custom_opto_sw10.jpg01_tz_custom_opto_sw10.jpg

Do your Twilight Zone owning friends a favor. Tell them to replace this capacitor before it causes damage to their board.

If it has already caused damage, I know someone who can sell you a replacement board if you don't want to repair it.

#15296 26 days ago

Nice! What cap value is that?

#15297 26 days ago
Quoted from altan:

Nice! What cap value is that?

The OEM capacitor is a Marcon 100uF @ 35V electrolytic capacitor with a 5mm lead spacing and 10mm diameter. You can replace it with an axial or similar lead spacing radial. You can use a different lead spacing radial but the leads won't fit through the holes without being at some angle.

#15298 26 days ago
Quoted from DumbAss:

The OEM capacitor is a Marcon 100uF @ 35V electrolytic capacitor with a 5mm lead spacing and 10mm diameter. You can replace it with an axial or similar lead spacing radial. You can use a different lead spacing radial but the leads won't fit through the holes without being at some angle.

Perfect!

I just ordered 10 of equivalent Nichiconn ones for the motor board on White Water. I just posted this bad boy on the White Water forum.

IMG_5091 (resized).jpegIMG_5091 (resized).jpeg

I'll proactively look at my TZ one too.

#15299 26 days ago
Quoted from gutz:

Its only one cap (100uf 35v radial) on each board to 'cap them'. Less than $2 in parts and you're good for the rest of your life in a home environment. Williams/Bally/Midway didn't use top notch capacitors (no one did - these games are meant to last 3-5 years max). Many of the radial caps are starting to leak and ruin traces on the pcbs. The really crazy thing is that a leaking capacitor can still be working just fine (and meter perfectly) and you'd never know about the leak! The blue axial phillips capacitors were junk when they were new and none of them are even close to good now.

Quoted from gutz:

To test it you need an cap tester that measures capacitance and esr, if either of those are out of spec the cap is bad. You cannot physically tell its bad in most cases (my experience over thousands of caps) unless its blown up. The real damage occurs when the cap leaks and the traces start to corrode - you can't see the initial leak because its UNDER the cap and you won't see it until the cap is removed. You will also have a rotten fishy smell when you remove a leaking cap.

I've been sounding the alarm for years on bally/midway pcbs (video and pinball) that now are experiencing leaking caps whenever I see the topic come up. Every single pcb from b/w in my games or spare pcbs have had caps replaced (except the large caps on wpc driver boards). I've noticed a 40-50% rate of boards having at least one leaking cap. I've reattached a few of my posts on this topic from this past year.

#15300 26 days ago

If electrolytic capacitor leak repair is something you're considering then always clean everything and use a DMM to check continuity. Remember that you do not have electron vision.

electrolytic_capacitor_corrosion.jpgelectrolytic_capacitor_corrosion.jpg

The corrosion has eaten into the fiberglass substrate so the trace is definitely gone. What's worse is that the pad (circular) portion is actually discontinuous with the big trace so if you just solder in the replacement capacitor without checking there is still no continuity where there needs to be.

Always clean (sand if necessary), visually inspect and verify with a DMM. This can be repaired for much cheaper than the cost of a new board.

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