(Topic ID: 63352)

Twilight Zone Owner's club

By Caucasian2Step

10 years ago


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  • Latest reply 25 hours ago by pjflyer
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There are 15,242 posts in this topic. You are on page 305 of 305.
#15201 36 days ago
Quoted from dboeren:

My TZ has started doing an odd thing where it plays the wrong sound samples. It’s usually ok when I first turn it on, this happens after playing a while and eventually it might even just play a continual hum and no sound samples at all. Any idea what the issue might be? Gameplay works normally, but of course it’s harder to know what’s going on without the right callouts.

While Ribbon Cables are the usual cause of this (reseat them, particularly the 5-connector one, then replace them if the problem continues), I have question:

Original sound board or Pinsound?

#15202 36 days ago
Quoted from slochar:

The prox sensor is one area where the 'hack' of soldering wires directly is a good thing. (eliminating the connector)

I'm not even sure I would consider it a hack at this point. Those two pin connectors have been problems across multiple machines. I soldered my proximity sensor wires a few months ago and not a problem since. POWERBALL!!!

#15203 36 days ago

Hacks definitely are not always a bad thing. Some are good - like the prox sensor solder and the elimination of the Z connector (I hate that Z connector).

#15204 36 days ago
Quoted from PinRetail:

While Ribbon Cables are the usual cause of this (reseat them, particularly the 5-connector one, then replace them if the problem continues), I have question:
Original sound board or Pinsound?

Marco sells the entire lot of ribbon cables in a pack. Considering they've been cooking in the backbox for 30 years it wouldn't be overkill to replace them all as they do go bad.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/RC1821

#15205 36 days ago
Quoted from slochar:

Hacks definitely are not always a bad thing. Some are good - like the prox sensor solder and the elimination of the Z connector (I hate that Z connector).

I've never had a Z connector issue. Is it that common? That being said, I bullet proof some much of the boards and other connectors, maybe that masks any Z problems.

#15206 35 days ago
Quoted from slochar:

Hacks definitely are not always a bad thing. Some are good - like the prox sensor solder and the elimination of the Z connector (I hate that Z connector).

Well, this would be a last resort for me.. First, get a can of Deoxit and clean pins/connector. If that doesn't help, I'd replace pins in the Z connector and re-flow solder joints on the board. If that doesn't help it could very well be a failing board, not sure those are available any longer haven't really looked.

#15207 35 days ago
Quoted from ottodawg:

Well, this would be a last resort for me.. First, get a can of Deoxit and clean pins/connector. If that doesn't help, I'd replace pins in the Z connector and re-flow solder joints on the board. If that doesn't help it could very well be a failing board, not sure those are available any longer haven't really looked.

Or just eliminate the z connector. You'd really replace a board instead of eliminating a connector?
You do now that connector is only installed because the factory wanted to use the same harness with the added 8 driver board at the end of it right?

#15208 35 days ago
Quoted from slochar:

Or just eliminate the z connector. You'd really replace a board instead of eliminating a connector?
You do now that connector is only installed because the factory wanted to use the same harness with the added 8 driver board at the end of it right?

Well, I'd address the Z connector for sure, that doesn't mean I'd hack it out. I've never had an issue with them. I'd Deoxit the pins & contacts and remove/reseat it a few times. I wouldn't jump to removing it especially not knowing the soldering skills of the individual doing the work. I'd also clean the pins & contacts on the board connectors. Ideally, find a buddy with a TZ and have him loan you his board, after eliminating the other possibilities. That said, if you want to eliminate your Z header, go for it.

#15209 33 days ago

Hey guys, just a little update.
I finally decided to replace the subway proximity sensor board, and now everything works perfectly...
It recognizes the Polaris Ball Baron balls, and everything is good now. Still no idea why the previous board would recognize the standard steel ones and not the carbon ones..

thank you very much for your help. I'm glad it's sorted.

#15210 30 days ago

I know you all know that stuff from Classic Arcades can be a crap shoot but I decided pick up a repro Twilight Zone translite. I'd gotten an IJ speaker panel from him before I thought was just ok and this isn't any different. It was one of those things where I put it on a watchlist and then ebay gives an offer a few days later for 25% off so decided to check it out to see if the his translites are any better. Kind of the same issues I had with the IJ speaker panel. Image is overall darker, you lose a lot of fine details in light and dark areas. I think the one thing that really bugged me on this one was the gradients are really bad. The gradient on the floor in front of Rod and on the rocket ship in the back is not consistent and smooth. You can see this yellow/red color banding pattern across both those areas. I don't even know how he messed that up. It doesn't line up to the travel direction a printer head would take, so it must be a file conversion issue in Photoshop from going RGB to CYMK or a bit depth change or something. It takes some nice equipment to print this stuff so I don't get how these things aren't getting dialed in correctly. I don't know if I'm being too much of a perfectionist. This would be an acceptable replacement if you had no translite or yours was badly damaged, but mine only has a few bad spots on it so it's not worth it to me.
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#15211 30 days ago
Quoted from ParisPinballAdct:

Still no idea why the previous board

I'm thinking of it being "tired" electronics. It works in some instances but not in others. I ran into a similar problem with optos in IJ. They tested fine, but with a flash lamp nearby, they became intermittent. It took a while to figure this out.

#15212 28 days ago

Does anyone know what the game says during the multiball restart callouts? I know the first is clearly, "You can do it," but the second is a little unclear. I always thought it was "Practice."

#15213 28 days ago

I always thought it was "faster"

#15214 28 days ago

I thought it sounds like "factor"

#15215 27 days ago

“Faster” is correct

#15216 27 days ago

I thought factor too but realized that didn't make sense

#15217 27 days ago

Ah that makes a whole lot more sense, thank you

#15218 27 days ago

I’m getting the famous proximity trough switch 26 issue. I replaced the sensor board (the one with the light), but I did not replace the coil board yet.

Does anybody know what the expected behavior is? Unless I turned the sensitivity all the way to one direction, the light on the board stayed on. When it finally went off (from adjusting sensitivity) I moved a metal ball right next to it, and I cannot get the light to come back on (without adjusting the sensativitu). I’m thinking I may have a bad coil and ordered the coil board, but in the meantime, just curious how it’s supposed to behave. Thanks!

#15219 27 days ago

Just did this myself actually, for mine it was all about that sweet spot for the sensitivity setting. If you've messed with the magnetic inlanes in STTNG this is kinda similar. The light should be on whenever it detects a steel ball, so a good way to test that it's doing what it needs to is to manually push the solenoid that kicks the ball into the shooter lane. Without the full force it will kinda just raise the ball up ideally just enough to turn off the LED on the board. Note that only one ball should be in the trough or else when raised the detector will just sense the next ball behind it. Once you have it so that the LED is on for every steel pinball, but off for the Powerball, you're set, though I've had to make constant fine tune adjustments on mine, it's a finicky system.

-Finn

#15220 27 days ago
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:

I’m getting the famous proximity trough switch 26 issue. I replaced the sensor board (the one with the light), but I did not replace the coil board yet.
Does anybody know what the expected behavior is? Unless I turned the sensitivity all the way to one direction, the light on the board stayed on. When it finally went off (from adjusting sensitivity) I moved a metal ball right next to it, and I cannot get the light to come back on (without adjusting the sensativitu). I’m thinking I may have a bad coil and ordered the coil board, but in the meantime, just curious how it’s supposed to behave. Thanks!

Just did this myself actually, for mine it was all about that sweet spot for the sensitivity setting. If you've messed with the magnetic inlanes in STTNG this is kinda similar. The light should be on whenever it detects a steel ball, so a good way to test that it's doing what it needs to is to manually push the solenoid that kicks the ball into the shooter lane. Without the full force it will kinda just raise the ball up ideally just enough to turn off the LED on the board. Note that only one ball should be in the trough or else when raised the detector will just sense the next ball behind it. Once you have it so that the LED is on for every steel pinball, but off for the Powerball, you're set, though I've had to make constant fine tune adjustments on mine, it's a finicky system.

-Finn

#15221 27 days ago
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:

I’m getting the famous proximity trough switch 26 issue. I replaced the sensor board (the one with the light), but I did not replace the coil board yet.

It's been brought up several times. Another good idea is to twist the wires that go between the boards and solder them instead of using the connector. I had to remove the ic chips, put a socket in and replace. Replaced the sensor as well. It got beat up by being too close to the balls. I just fixed the boards for a few dollars in parts and solder time.

#15222 27 days ago

There's one thing about the updated code I don't understand: how do we put 6 balls plus the ceramic ball in the game so that the game know's it has 7 balls total?
Also, what difference does it bring to game play?
Thanks for answering, I know I'm a dummy at these kind of things.

#15223 27 days ago
Quoted from GILV:

There's one thing about the updated code I don't understand: how do we put 6 balls plus the ceramic ball in the game so that the game know's it has 7 balls total?
Also, what difference does it bring to game play?
Thanks for answering, I know I'm a dummy at these kind of things.

It makes LITZ 7 balls instead of 6. The trough only has 3 switches - it puts 4 in the gumball machine.

#15224 26 days ago
Quoted from GILV:

There's one thing about the updated code I don't understand: how do we put 6 balls plus the ceramic ball in the game so that the game know's it has 7 balls total?
Also, what difference does it bring to game play?
Thanks for answering, I know I'm a dummy at these kind of things.

Technically, there's nothing you need to do. Put your new (7th) steel ball in the outhole, and the game will load (an extra) ball into the gumball machine. You CAN set the A.2.35 setting to "4", but it's not really necessary.

#15225 26 days ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Technically, there's nothing you need to do. Put your new (7th) steel ball in the outhole, and the game will load (an extra) ball into the gumball machine. You CAN set the A.2.35 setting to "4", but it's not really necessary.

Thanks guys.
What does the A2.35 setting do when set to 4 ?

#15226 26 days ago
Quoted from GILV:

Thanks guys.
What does the A2.35 setting do when set to 4 ?

Not much, just (helps) prevent the game from throwing a dot about an extra ball in the game, and depending on how your powerball sensors are, will prevent unnecessarily throwing the game into 'simulated' powerball mode.

#15227 26 days ago

Hello,

My TZ clock casing has lost two threads on the 'motor' side and so the bolts are coming loose. Is there a fix so the bolts stay in firm or do I need to get a whole new clock casing?
Thanks

#15228 26 days ago
Quoted from simonlindsay:

Hello,
My TZ clock casing has lost two threads on the 'motor' side and so the bolts are coming loose. Is there a fix so the bolts stay in firm or do I need to get a whole new clock casing?
Thanks

Maybe a little glue would help but honestly you probably should just get a new clock case.

#15229 25 days ago
Quoted from simonlindsay:

Is there a fix so the bolts stay in firm

Rubber cement, so you can get them back out.

LTG : )

#15230 25 days ago

Thanks for the replies. I'll try some rubber cement (in the UK I think it is what is used for tyre (tire) punctures) and hope it works.

#15231 25 days ago

Shoogoo

Quoted from simonlindsay:Thanks for the replies. I'll try some rubber cement (in the UK I think it is what is used for tyre (tire) punctures) and hope it works.

#15232 25 days ago
Quoted from simonlindsay:

Thanks for the replies. I'll try some rubber cement (in the UK I think it is what is used for tyre (tire) punctures) and hope it works.

According to Wikipedia it’s called cow gum over there which I think a brand name. Don’t know if it’s still marketed under that name.

#15233 24 days ago

We still have some of the complete 3rd magnet kits available ready to ship (international ok also) in our store. These are what HEP uses, (one of the only mods he didn't eviscerate in his videos lol).... wiring and boards from pinsiders Rockwell and dumbass.... Everyone went above and beyond to make these great, complete and as affordable as possible. Even if you don't need one right now get them while they're available.

#15234 23 days ago
Quoted from jrcmlc:

We still have some of the complete 3rd magnet kits available ready to ship (international ok also) in our store. These are what HEP uses, (one of the only mods he didn't eviscerate in his videos lol).... wiring and boards from pinsiders Rockwell and dumbass.... Everyone went above and beyond to make these great, complete and as affordable as possible. Even if you don't need one right now get them while they're available.

You're right on that last sentence, in pinball, nothing is "always available" , I was out of the hobby for 5 years and came back saying that if I buy another TZ one day, I will do the 3rd magnet mod to it but Pinbits was out of business when I came back into the hobby.....

#15235 22 days ago

I bought this trough proximity sensor as well as a new sensor board. I can’t get it to work, and the coil looks different than the one that came on the machine. Bought a new sensor board and a new coil board, and after playing around with it all, I got it working with the original boards.

Has to have something to do with the connection, I think there is definitely something to the soldering recommendation.

IMG_3998 (resized).jpegIMG_3998 (resized).jpeg
#15236 22 days ago
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:

I bought this trough proximity sensor as well as a new sensor board. I can’t get it to work, and the coil looks different than the one that came on the machine. Bought a new sensor board and a new coil board, and after playing around with it all, I got it working with the original boards.
Has to have something to do with the connection, I think there is definitely something to the soldering recommendation.
[quoted image]

There is often an issue with the connection on the original boards.
I replaced plugs+connector on both boards without solving it permanetly.
Only when I soldered a pair of twisted wires directly on the boards I got it solved 100% (you can even let the old cable +connector leave installed in parallel) - found that hack-solution here posted somewhere

1 week later
#15237 10 days ago
Quoted from EStroh:

Looking for some help!
I've built a couple TZ pins and I've collected a few clock boards along the way. Now I'm doing a scratch build on a CFTBL and I need A LOT of these lamp sockets - which are not available anywhere. They were only used on TZ and CFTBL.
Yes, I see there's a few listed on Ebay - for the entire board, but I'm hoping I can buy a few sockets here and there from those of you that did the LED clock conversion like me. If anyone is willing to sell a few to me to help the cause, please shoot me a PM.
Thank you all!
[quoted image]

Update: A big THANK YOU to those that are assisting me with my CFTBL scratch build by contributing to the MANY TZ clock lamp sockets I'll need as source material.

PinJim, OverPar, GILV and Jimakost: THANK YOU!

I still need 8 more for the main ramps. Please PM me if you can assist me in my quest to build this thing. Thank you!!!
IMG_6540 (resized).jpgIMG_6540 (resized).jpg

#15238 8 days ago

*PENDING*

Anyone here interested in this topper for free plus shipping costs? It came with my game but I've got the Electric Playground topper now so I don't want it. There is a sizable crack up the side on the left but it still seems sturdy. What you see in the photo is what I have, I don't have whatever additional wiring and mounting hardware is needed for it.

All I ask is you pay whatever it costs me to pack it up and ship it to you, otherwise it's going to the trash in a couple weeks when I clean out the garage.

IMG_5557 (resized).jpgIMG_5557 (resized).jpgIMG_5559 (resized).jpgIMG_5559 (resized).jpg

Added 7 days ago:

*GONE*

#15239 6 days ago

Selling this reproduction translite by Classic Arcades - $75 free shipping in the US.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/177151

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#15240 3 days ago

Hey all, back in the club! It's been awhile, but a TZ that has been sitting for a long while fell into my lap. It needs some love!

Need to replace a couple of items, and Ive been out of the TZ scene for awhile, so thought I would ask here.

Who makes a good trough proximity board and detector?

Is the mini switch kit from PB Life as good as the old Great Lakes Modular kit?

Thanks in advance!

#15241 3 days ago
Quoted from smokedog:

Hey all, back in the club! It's been awhile, but a TZ that has been sitting for a long while fell into my lap. It needs some love!
Need to replace a couple of items, and Ive been out of the TZ scene for awhile, so thought I would ask here.
Who makes a good trough proximity board and detector?
Is the mini switch kit from PB Life as good as the old Great Lakes Modular kit?
Thanks in advance!

Are you sure the proximity board is the issue? Check all gumball switches first.

#15242 25 hours ago
Quoted from smokedog:

Who makes a good trough proximity board and detector?

Not sure if he does the prox switch, but dumbass does a clock board.

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