Burnsville, MN
Where do I find the top(lid) for the gumball machine. I am missing it. Thanks.
(Topic ID: 63352)
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Twilight Zone
Bally, 1993
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Quoted from PjM:Where do I find the top(lid) for the gumball machine. I am missing it. Thanks.
http://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/03-8821.html
Maybe just go to the grocery store and buy a jar of something with a similar red cap, if your not that fussy. 
Quoted from Neal_W:http://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/03-8821.html
Maybe just go to the grocery store and buy a jar of something with a similar red cap, if your not that fussy.
I can just see someone posting here in 5 years "I found this TZ with a pickle jar cap on the gumball machine! Those freaking ops!"
Marco lists them as well
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8821
Need some clock help please... Clock was throwing an "clock is broken" error. The error seems to occur when the clock resets, either during game play or when the game begins. Clock in test mode runs fine, forwards and backwards, fast and slow. Just installed new Rotterdog clock board (DOH) and it didn't fix it. What is left? The clock control board under the PF? Thanks for any help you can give.
In test mode, are all optos hit for each time period every single time? Does clock time equal time shown on dmd? 99% of the issues with the clock are bad optos. Rottendog board is not a good solution, Ingos board is the only way to go.
Glad I got Ingo's clock board..... works flawlessly and Ingo's a really nice buddy... great benefit for the money... definitely a no-brainer!
Does anyone know where to source just the proximity coil from the trough sensor board? I have the replacement pinpoint board and one of my leads broke off rendering it unrepairable. I'd really like to avoid spending $60 again on a replacement boardset. The coil is the blue thing in the attaches pic. Thanks!
Quoted from Lermods:In test mode, are all optos hit for each time period every single time? Does clock time equal time shown on dmd? 99% of the issues with the clock are bad optos. Rottendog board is not a good solution, Ingos board is the only way to go.
Yes, in test mode it matches up with the DMD perfectly. Optos seem fine.
Quoted from kermit24:Need some clock help please... Clock was throwing an "clock is broken" error.
Double check that the black circle timing disc for the hour optos is on correct and not turned 180 degrees. I put it on upside down once and and it gave a problem like that.
Quoted from MikeS:Does anyone know where to source just the proximity coil from the trough sensor board? I have the replacement pinpoint board and one of my leads broke off rendering it unrepairable. I'd really like to avoid spending $60 again on a replacement boardset. The coil is the blue thing in the attaches pic. Thanks!
IMG_20151206_164412202.jpg
I heard back from the manufacturer of the Pinpoint board who was very helpful and recommended the following choke coil from Mouser as a replacement. He said this isn't the one that he used on the board (he doesn't have any of those left) but should work.. I will give this a shot when my order arrives. For under $2 it's worth a shot!
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Panasonic/ELC-18B101L/?qs=7cq1PWvtf6FaZNeRlnkx9g%3D%3D
Quoted from scampcamp:So.. where does someone get one of those "Home ROM" is there a better version?
IPDB..
Quoted from scampcamp:I've pm johnwartjr just waiting for reply.
You can download it from the TZ page.... Or else look for the chip at ebay!
Quoted from scampcamp:I've pm johnwartjr just waiting for reply.
Hell, if I wasn't heading out of town today for a week, I'd burn your a copy for free.
Quoted from Coyote:Hell, if I wasn't heading out of town today for a week, I'd burn your a copy for free.
Do you have the X Files ROM? 
Talking about ROMS, does it matter the Sound ROM version?
I mean, they have to match with a specific main ROM?
For example, I had my game with version L3 when I bought it, so I switched to 9.4h. Now I get "Sound Board Interface Error".
If I put the old main ROM back, the error goes away.
Ringsted
Quoted from dkeruza:Talking about ROMS, does it matter the Sound ROM version?
I mean, they have to match with a specific main ROM?
For example, I had my game with version L3 when I bought it, so I switched to 9.4h. Now I get "Sound Board Interface Error".
If I put the old main ROM back, the error goes away.
Known upgrade issue: http://www.actionpinball.com/tech/tzsnderr.php
Let us know if the instructions helps you out...
Quoted from scampcamp:Does anyone know how many spotlights are on a TZ playfield originally? Should there be any of the cone shape style or just the rectangular ones? I would like to brighten it up some. Thanks
images (1).jpg
images.jpg
No spotlights. One streetlight over miniPF.
Quoted from AlexSMendes:Do you have the X Files ROM?
I could easily find it, if it's not on IPDB.. But I won't be home until next Friday..
Quoted from KenEberhardt:Known upgrade issue: http://www.actionpinball.com/tech/tzsnderr.php
Let us know if the instructions helps you out...
I tried everything in the instructions with no luck, then I swapped the Sound Board with the one from my TAF and no more error, now the error is in The Addams.
Conclusion, its the board.
Quoted from dkeruza:I tried everything in the instructions with no luck, then I swapped the Sound Board with the one from my TAF and no more error, now the error is in The Addams.
Conclusion, its the board.
How did the TAF reach on the TZ board?
These odd communication related issues are often due to bad cables/connectors so my last try would be to clean connectors and maybe get new cables...
Quoted from T2play:Who sells the led clock replacement?
http://www.german-pinball-modular.de/final-tz-clock-pcb-english.html
The rainbow LEDs look better than I thought. The Rottendog board also has cool white LEDs built in, but they're not easily swappable like Ingo's board.
Quoted from T2play:Should I LED my TZ or leave it. I am ok with the clock being colored led since I need a new one but I like the yellow look overall on TZ what do you have?
I went with warm white single SMD LEDs in everything(*), and LED OCD. You can't tell it's LEDed. That's how I like it. I really really dislike the over-saturation.
(*) Except: All visible bulbs (condoms, pop bumpers) are Incandescent, and the LOCK insert is a GREEN single SMD LED, to help make it stand out.
Sesto Calende
1 week later
Hey all -
Which cabinet protectors do you use on your cabinet? (If any?) The plastic ones, or the metal ones? I've read differing claims on which to use..
--Mike
Quoted from Coyote:Hey all -
Which cabinet protectors do you use on your cabinet? (If any?) The plastic ones, or the metal ones? I've read differing claims on which to use..
--Mike
Has anyone said to use the plastic ones? I thought you're not supposed to use them except on painted cabinets. I have them on my TZ... f*** the police. I need to switch a bunch of my games over to the metal ones.
Quoted from DefaultGen:Has anyone said to use the plastic ones? I thought you're not supposed to use them except on painted cabinets. I have them on my TZ... f*** the police. I need to switch a bunch of my games over to the metal ones.
There's a couple old threads where people recommend the plastic ones for all cabinets. The I've seen others where then they recommend the metal ones for the cabinet, so.. why I'm asking for a second opinion. 
Quoted from AlexSMendes:Do you mean legs protectors?
I think? I've seen them listed as cabinet protectors - protecting from the legs - since the legs aren't really damaged by the cabinet. 
OK, just to make sure.... I got myself some of these:
ebay.com link: Pinball Cabinet Leg Protectors Original Fabric Design Dark Grey 1 Cent Ship
Guess it works better than metal or plastic....
Breda
I ordered one after I took that picture. Makes a big difference.
After installing it, I noticed how boring the backboard looks so I ordered a spiral decal. Any tips on installing a backboard decal on a twilight zone? One tip I was told was to apply water/soap solution and slide it in. Is that the easiest way?
Can you remove the backboard from the playfield or is that too hard?
You can remove it. That's what I did. There's 4-6 screws from the bottom of the Playfield if I recall. It wasn't a big job if I remember either (requiring tons of other parts to be removed).
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