(Topic ID: 63352)

Twilight Zone Owner's club

By Caucasian2Step

10 years ago


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  • Latest reply 26 hours ago by Davi
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There are 15,002 posts in this topic. You are on page 295 of 301.
#14701 3 months ago
Quoted from Kerry_Richard:

Caution... measure twice, cut once!
Mad Dog suggesting 1/2" hole (amazon link) and jrclmc is suggesting 3/4" hole per his link.

Yeah - I was just showing the type of bit needed. Obviously the correct size is critical. I just had to do another playfield modification requiring a 1/2". Sounds like 3/4" is what is needed in this application. I changed the link to be the 3/4" bit but haven't verified this for the TZ 3 magnet modification.

20230925_193509 (resized).jpg20230925_193509 (resized).jpg20230926_174533 (resized).jpg20230926_174533 (resized).jpg
#14702 3 months ago

Introducing the Interactive playing piano mod for Twilight Zone!

I have been working on this playing piano mod for a while now and I am pleased to be able to release it for sale! When the piano mode start scoop is hit, the keys light up and mechanically play with the piano tune. I'll start with a batch of 30 for release, with a second batch pending for the new year. Click the link for more information and videos!

https://www.interactivepinball.com/

IMG_0160 (resized).jpgIMG_0160 (resized).jpg
#14703 3 months ago

hi guys,

Suddenly, the top left bumber sends me an error message "check switch 31 top left jet bumper".
what happens is after a hit the bottom sleeve gets stuck on the playfield (sort of..). and it needs another hit to bring it back up.
doesn't happen every time but some time and then it can remain stuck for a while which creates the switch error message.

i read on other threads that this may be due to a "magnetized" coil sleeve and/or coil stop.

what do you reckon? have you ever experienced this on your TZ? i've owned mine for 5 years and is the first time this happens.

happy Friday folks.

#14704 3 months ago
Quoted from ParisPinballAdct:

hi guys,
Suddenly, the top left bumber sends me an error message "check switch 31 top left jet bumper".
what happens is after a hit the bottom sleeve gets stuck on the playfield (sort of..). and it needs another hit to bring it back up.
doesn't happen every time but some time and then it can remain stuck for a while which creates the switch error message.
i read on other threads that this may be due to a "magnetized" coil sleeve and/or coil stop.
what do you reckon? have you ever experienced this on your TZ? i've owned mine for 5 years and is the first time this happens.
happy Friday folks.

Check or adjust the spoon that the skirt nipple rides in. You should replace the spoon if it has a divot worn in it that causes the skirt to not move freely.

#14705 3 months ago

king_pin and Pinkitten --- thank you for the shooter rod recommendation. It fits the theme perfectly!

PXL_20231115_234852014.NIGHT (resized).jpgPXL_20231115_234852014.NIGHT (resized).jpg
#14706 3 months ago
Quoted from SuperMas77:

king_pin and Pinkitten --- thank you for the shooter rod recommendation. It fits the theme perfectly! [quoted image]

No problem! Did you have to replace your shooter spring? When I swapped, my old spring couldn't get the ball all the way up into the scoop. I had to swap for a stronger spring.

Looks great btw!

#14707 3 months ago
Quoted from king_pin:

No problem! Did you have to replace your shooter spring? When I swapped, my old spring couldn't get the ball all the way up into the scoop. I had to swap for a stronger spring.
Looks great btw!

Yes, I will have to replace the spring. Full plunge rarely makes it all the way to the scoop.

#14708 3 months ago
Quoted from king_pin:

No problem! Did you have to replace your shooter spring? When I swapped, my old spring couldn't get the ball all the way up into the scoop. I had to swap for a stronger spring.
Looks great btw!

I just bought the same shooter rod - love it. I got the spring assortment from Marco and tried a few until I found one I liked. I have the Blue in now, but think I may want to go one softer - green I think. Springs are cheap - it was like $7 for a whole assortment.
Cheers!

#14709 3 months ago

I made a keychain for TZ. If anyone is interested, PM me and I can send the STL file.

Screenshot_20231118-093510 (resized).pngScreenshot_20231118-093510 (resized).png
#14710 3 months ago
Quoted from king_pin:

I made a keychain for TZ. If anyone is interested, PM me and I can send the STL file.
[quoted image]

I just noticed the letter "L" has a break in it. I'll fix this before sending if anyone is interested.

#14711 3 months ago

I'd take it, add it my library of stuff. Lol Thanks.

#14712 3 months ago
Quoted from jrcmlc:

I'd take it, add it my library of stuff. Lol Thanks.

Send me a PM with your email and I'll send it over.

#14714 3 months ago
Quoted from rhampo:

I just bought the same shooter rod - love it. I got the spring assortment from Marco and tried a few until I found one I liked. I have the Blue in now, but think I may want to go one softer - green I think. Springs are cheap - it was like $7 for a whole assortment.
Cheers!

I bought the same assortment pack and ended up putting in the white spring.

#14715 3 months ago
Quoted from InteractivePinball:

Introducing the Interactive playing piano mod for Twilight Zone!
I have been working on this playing piano mod for a while now and I am pleased to be able to release it for sale! When the piano mode start scoop is hit, the keys light up and mechanically play with the piano tune. I'll start with a batch of 30 for release, with a second batch pending for the new year. Click the link for more information and videos!
https://www.interactivepinball.com/ [quoted image]

Wish this was available a few months ago. I've got the similar non animated piano mod. Very nice indeed.

#14716 3 months ago

Has anyone designed a 3D model and printed their own piano mod?

#14717 3 months ago
Quoted from wrd1972:

Wish this was available a few months ago. I've got the similar non animated piano mod. Very nice indeed.

Thank you! We have 9 left from the first batch of 30.

#14718 3 months ago

a few fixes I'm looking to see what people have found solutions for. One I've seen posts of but I'd love to revisit it to see what people have actually done to solve it, the other I'm not sure if I'm just not searching for the correct thing (and this thread is just like 5,649,390 posts about mods).

One issue is the problem of the power ramp diverter. When the coil begins to energize to dump the ball onto the playfield from the habit trail above, it rattles the ball a tiny bit, and if the ball moves a bit from the coil beginning to activate which makes it move a little bit, then fumbles when it kicks it out. Any thoughts?

The other thing is once in every couple hundred games the gumball will get clogged. Three balls in it will be suspended in air. Any tricks to this?

The last one has been resolved since I started the draft of this post. Turns out the only way to fix the lock shot is breaking the ramp weld like people have mentioned. Don't futz around with magnets or felt or foam. Just do it right.

#14719 3 months ago
Quoted from radial_head:

One issue is the problem of the power ramp diverter. When the coil begins to energize to dump the ball onto the playfield from the habit trail above, it rattles the ball a tiny bit, and if the ball moves a bit from the coil beginning to activate which makes it move a little bit, then fumbles when it kicks it out. Any thoughts?

There are references here where folks have had to use a magnet affixed to the cage. If you search for that, it may come up with some more details. (I personally have never needed to in my game, so I don't know the magnet types folks have used.)

Quoted from radial_head:

The other thing is once in every couple hundred games the gumball will get clogged. Three balls in it will be suspended in air. Any tricks to this?

Do you have the clear plastic guide installed in the gumball machine?
https://www.marcospecialties.com//images/products/03-8887/detail.jpg (This is what it looks like, it's flipped upside down from the image when installed.)

#14720 3 months ago
Quoted from Coyote:

There are references here where folks have had to use a magnet affixed to the cage. If you search for that, it may come up with some more details. (I personally have never needed to in my game, so I don't know the magnet types folks have used.)

I added a magnet to the diverter many moons ago. Works like a charm, unless it's the powerball, of course...

#14721 3 months ago
Quoted from PinJim:

I added a magnet to the diverter many moons ago. Works like a charm, unless it's the powerball, of course...

If you - or anyone - ever finds a magnet that works with the powerball, let the guy that makes those MRS switches know.

#14722 89 days ago

I think it is time for me to replace the switches on my TZ as they are aged and I keep getting phantom ball locks during the game. Also, even when the game is not being played I’m occasionally getting odd clicks out of the ball lock area that I can’t explain so I’m guessing it is a switch issue.

Anyway, does anyone have a complete list of all the switches I need to order for TZ?

Thank you in advance.

#14723 89 days ago
Quoted from TigerLaw:

I think it is time for me to replace the switches on my TZ as they are aged and I keep getting phantom ball locks during the game. Also, even when the game is not being played I’m occasionally getting odd clicks out of the ball lock area that I can’t explain so I’m guessing it is a switch issue.
Anyway, does anyone have a complete list of all the switches I need to order for TZ?
Thank you in advance.

Those are optos, not microswitches. You likely have a bad cap on the opto board (which has come up a LOT this year), or, the optos are dirty.

#14724 89 days ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Those are optos, not microswitches. You likely have a bad cap on the opto board (which has come up a LOT this year), or, the optos are dirty.

Ah, that’s a good thought. I’ll check that out.

#14725 89 days ago
Quoted from radial_head:

a few fixes I'm looking to see what people have found solutions for. One I've seen posts of but I'd love to revisit it to see what people have actually done to solve it, the other I'm not sure if I'm just not searching for the correct thing (and this thread is just like 5,649,390 posts about mods).
One issue is the problem of the power ramp diverter. When the coil begins to energize to dump the ball onto the playfield from the habit trail above, it rattles the ball a tiny bit, and if the ball moves a bit from the coil beginning to activate which makes it move a little bit, then fumbles when it kicks it out. Any thoughts?
The other thing is once in every couple hundred games the gumball will get clogged. Three balls in it will be suspended in air. Any tricks to this?
The last one has been resolved since I started the draft of this post. Turns out the only way to fix the lock shot is breaking the ramp weld like people have mentioned. Don't futz around with magnets or felt or foam. Just do it right.

I've done the magnet mod on both the divertor and the lock shot...both work great...I don't count the powerball as that is an outlier in and of itself. For the lock I just found one at lowes and used double stick tape to mount it...there are all sorts of magnets that have been used on the divertor over the years, the nicest one I've seen was a very small neodymium square magnet, but I had already installed mine so I never did purchase it....I haven't heard of breaking the welds, but do recall reading about using a shim under the mounts...I've never done as the magnet works so well...

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#14726 89 days ago
Quoted from InteractivePinball:

Introducing the Interactive playing piano mod for Twilight Zone!
I have been working on this playing piano mod for a while now and I am pleased to be able to release it for sale! When the piano mode start scoop is hit, the keys light up and mechanically play with the piano tune. I'll start with a batch of 30 for release, with a second batch pending for the new year. Click the link for more information and videos!
https://www.interactivepinball.com/ [quoted image]

Super cool mod! Looks well designed and I like how everything mounts securely. Decent price, too. Purchased!

#14727 88 days ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Those are optos, not microswitches. You likely have a bad cap on the opto board (which has come up a LOT this year), or, the optos are dirty.

Is the best thing to do for me to have board recapped? Maybe replace the board outright? What are the recommendations and what parts should I buy?

This is a new issue for me and I deeply appreciate the assistance. Thanks.

#14728 88 days ago
Quoted from TigerLaw:

I think it is time for me to replace the switches on my TZ as they are aged and I keep getting phantom ball locks during the game. Also, even when the game is not being played I’m occasionally getting odd clicks out of the ball lock area that I can’t explain so I’m guessing it is a switch issue.
Anyway, does anyone have a complete list of all the switches I need to order for TZ?
Thank you in advance.

Thats the exact symptoms I was getting with my game and it was the opto board. The Cap leaked and fried the traces, I replaced the cap but my board was toast for my skill levels to diagnose and fix so I bought a new opto board.

Also please check the clock motor board as it has the same cap which only a few months earlier blew taking out that board too.

I think the service life of these caps has been reached, I'd recommend looking into recapping these 2 boards even if you're not exhibiting issues yet.

#14729 88 days ago
Quoted from iEatHands:

I think the service life of these caps has been reached,

What is the general service life of these capacitors on average?

#14730 88 days ago

Based on the slew of issues this year, about 30 years.

#14731 88 days ago
Quoted from EZ-Rhino:What is the general service life of these capacitors on average?

Quoted from iEatHands:

Thats the exact symptoms I was getting with my game and it was the opto board. The Cap leaked and fried the traces, I replaced the cap but my board was toast for my skill levels to diagnose and fix so I bought a new opto board.
Also please check the clock motor board as it has the same cap which only a few months earlier blew taking out that board too.
I think the service life of these caps has been reached, I'd recommend looking into recapping these 2 boards even if you're not exhibiting issues yet.

Its only one cap (100uf 35v radial) on each board to 'cap them'. Less than $2 in parts and you're good for the rest of your life in a home environment. Williams/Bally/Midway didn't use top notch capacitors (no one did - these games are meant to last 3-5 years max). Many of the radial caps are starting to leak and ruin traces on the pcbs. The really crazy thing is that a leaking capacitor can still be working just fine (and meter perfectly) and you'd never know about the leak! The blue axial phillips capacitors were junk when they were new and none of them are even close to good now.

#14732 88 days ago
Quoted from EZ-Rhino:

What is the general service life of these capacitors on average?

They're rated in service hours. Most general quality caps are 2000 hours or below. Most last longer, especially if they're not next to a heat source.

#14733 88 days ago

Anything to look for with cap going bad or just be proactive and change it out before I wish I had?

#14734 88 days ago
Quoted from Tiltbob:

Anything to look for with cap going bad or just be proactive and change it out before I wish I had?

Leaking or bulged. Otherwise leave it alone.

LTG : )

#14735 88 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

Leaking or bulged. Otherwise leave it alone.
LTG : )

Thanks Lloyd!

#14736 88 days ago

Any Twilight Zone project machines out in the wild? Would like to own one but prices still a bit high. Something in the New England area would be great!

#14737 88 days ago
Quoted from iEatHands:

Thats the exact symptoms I was getting with my game and it was the opto board. The Cap leaked and fried the traces, I replaced the cap but my board was toast for my skill levels to diagnose and fix so I bought a new opto board.
Also please check the clock motor board as it has the same cap which only a few months earlier blew taking out that board too.
I think the service life of these caps has been reached, I'd recommend looking into recapping these 2 boards even if you're not exhibiting issues yet.

My clock motor failed a few weeks ago and I traced it to a cap leaking on the motor control board - it also took out the 5V regulator chip on that board. Thanks for the heads up about the same caps being used elsewhere - I think I will order some caps and recap all the parts under the playfield.
What about motherboard(s) caps in the backbox? Anyone have to recap those?

Thanks!
Richard

#14738 88 days ago
Quoted from iEatHands:

Thats the exact symptoms I was getting with my game and it was the opto board. The Cap leaked and fried the traces, I replaced the cap but my board was toast for my skill levels to diagnose and fix so I bought a new opto board.
Also please check the clock motor board as it has the same cap which only a few months earlier blew taking out that board too.
I think the service life of these caps has been reached, I'd recommend looking into recapping these 2 boards even if you're not exhibiting issues yet.

So it is the opto board and the clock motor board that I for sure need to replace (I’ll bring my existing boards to TPF to get them recapped). Any other boards? Thanks!

#14739 88 days ago

I have the ingo board in my clock with the rainbow LEDs and think I want to swap them. It may be the prototype clock face I have so I will try a stock but they bloom light circles and look bad. I also have his white square leds to try.

Anyone have anything else they put in those square 4 legged bulbs? Or maybe something to diffuse it behind? I should try and get some smoke out film and try.

#14740 88 days ago
Quoted from BOBCADE:

.... Or maybe something to diffuse it behind?

I used two or three of these to disperse lighting behind the clock face.
baffles (resized).jpgbaffles (resized).jpg

#14741 87 days ago
Quoted from ramegoom:

I used two or three of these to disperse lighting behind the clock face.
[quoted image]

Thanks, do you have a link or know their name for me to search for a set?

#14742 87 days ago
Quoted from gutz:

They're rated in service hours. Most general quality caps are 2000 hours or below. Most last longer, especially if they're not next to a heat source.

Appreciate the response. I guess I better inspect mine again... Game is working fine but I have original boards so probably time to take a look (although the game has been HUO since 1999).

#14743 87 days ago
Quoted from BOBCADE:

Thanks, do you have a link or know their name for me to search for a set?

I made them with a laser. PM me, I'll send you a few.

#14744 86 days ago

Any recommendations on where to buy the boards I need? Also, which all boards do I need beyond the opto board? I don’t mind having spares, I’ll never be selling my TZ.

#14745 86 days ago

Does DumbAss sell the items you need?

Quoted from TigerLaw:Any recommendations on where to buy the boards I need? Also, which all boards do I need beyond the opto board? I don’t mind having spares, I’ll never be selling my TZ.

#14746 86 days ago

First post in the thread I created has a list of boards. It can be considered long so please scroll through if you’re interested. It’s mostly up to date but at this time there are a few things not yet added. Otherwise, messaging can clear things up.

#14747 83 days ago

hi gentlemen,

i'm getting mad right now trying to sort an issue with the right ramp ball diverter. it works 8-10 times in a row, then will stop working and makes a noise as if it's trying to work but doesn't actually move at all.
i have resoldered the coil and cleaned the parts underneath but problem remains: when I go in Test mode sometimes works like a charm, sometimes doesnt (the little noise as in it's trying but no move). It's getting on my nerves since obviously you can't play if this part isn't functionning properly.

also, as little side treat, the slot proximity switch as just died "just like that" yesterday and needs to be replaced.

oh well, typical Twilight Zone.

if anyone has had a similar issue with the right ramp ball diverter or has any idea of what else I could try to do... ? happy Monday everyone.

#14748 82 days ago
Quoted from ParisPinballAdct:

hi gentlemen,
i'm getting mad right now trying to sort an issue with the right ramp ball diverter. it works 8-10 times in a row, then will stop working and makes a noise as if it's trying to work but doesn't actually move at all.
i have resoldered the coil and cleaned the parts underneath but problem remains: when I go in Test mode sometimes works like a charm, sometimes doesnt (the little noise as in it's trying but no move). It's getting on my nerves since obviously you can't play if this part isn't functionning properly.
also, as little side treat, the slot proximity switch as just died "just like that" yesterday and needs to be replaced.
oh well, typical Twilight Zone.
if anyone has had a similar issue with the right ramp ball diverter or has any idea of what else I could try to do... ? happy Monday everyone.

I had a similar issue with mine a little while ago. I replaced the coil sleeve and coil stop and that seemed to fix the problem for me. Make sure you get the right coil sleeve though. I first used one that was a little too long and it wouldnt allow the diverter to open up all the way.

#14749 82 days ago
Quoted from gutz:

Its only one cap (100uf 35v radial) on each board to 'cap them'. Less than $2 in parts and you're good for the rest of your life in a home environment. Williams/Bally/Midway didn't use top notch capacitors (no one did - these games are meant to last 3-5 years max). Many of the radial caps are starting to leak and ruin traces on the pcbs. The really crazy thing is that a leaking capacitor can still be working just fine (and meter perfectly) and you'd never know about the leak! The blue axial phillips capacitors were junk when they were new and none of them are even close to good now.

Here is a video I just took demonstrating the cap quality on a twilight zone sound board after 30 years:

#14750 82 days ago
Quoted from sizzler747:

I had a similar issue with mine a little while ago. I replaced the coil sleeve and coil stop and that seemed to fix the problem for me. Make sure you get the right coil sleeve though. I first used one that was a little too long and it wouldnt allow the diverter to open up all the way.

thanks for your reply.
i did "clean" the coil stop, but yes maybe replacing it straight up + coil sleeve (although they both looked pretty fine to me), but it's still worth it anyway.

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