I suspect that the 100uf filter cap going into the 7805 died. When he replaced the fuse he put the nail in it's coffin and it shorted/vented. I've lost count of the # of those 100uf caps that I've found bad on my WPC era games. It's a standard replacement for me now.

Did all of that and fuse still blows.......

So you suggest that I simply replace that cap?

What test do you suggest I do?
I'm comfortable with testing things around.....

You've got a bigger debugging problem on your hands then.

At this point in time that cap is shorted and will need replaced. You'll also need to fix whatever power problem you now have. That's a bigger issue and will require a DMM at a minimum.

You can clearly see the C3 100mf 35v capacitor is toast. You will need to replace that.

Sorry for asking but english is not my first language.
What's a DMM ?

Yes, but he's still blowing the F116 fuse with that entire board out of circuit.

GILV You'll have get familiar with everything that F116 is running and do a visual inspection of the involved connectors, wiring and the loads that it feeds. You'll want to look for any obvious concerns like heat damage, fractured connectors, mechanisms touching nearby terminals etc. You'll need the factory manual a good auto ranging multimeter (DMM) and check out https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_WPC#Manuals_.26_Schematics
for some excellent diagnostic resources.

Been a while since I've purchased a mod for a game, especially one that comes in at this price but I'm so glad I was able to get in on the first round. This thing looks like it came out of the factory. Awesome job, can't wait to see what you come out with in the future and take more of my money.

Love my new spiral ramp!

20EAF045-3B75-4CE4-B1AE-4DF49CD0EE28 (resized).jpeg

EE4A561F-D73F-4E9F-80A8-A39E06CB4C47 (resized).jpeg

It is a multimeter.

To answer "What that board does" - it's the motor driver for the clock.

I can't tell you how much I appreciate all of your help everyone....
First, Maybe what I said was a little confusing, I just realized that...... the F116 fuse does NOT blow when the clock board is out of circuit, so can I conclude that it's something on the clock board that's wrong?

well if it's a multimeter, I have one and I'm very comfortable working with a multimeter as well.

WOW! I really like your clock, is it a prototype?

Thanks! Not a proto at all!

The face is from Marco I think. Like 9 bucks. The housing is from pinballdecals. I think it was the last blue one he had a long time ago.

I -had- to replace my housing b/c the screw holes in the original were stripped out and I didn’t know how to repair (if it can even be done). At the time there were only a couple housings available. I hear clears are back available now though!

Correct.

So you have 4 options :
You can send it out for repair, buy a replacement, play the game without the clock working, or try to fix it yourself.

I would try and repair the board yourself. If you have a soldering iron and a little soldering skill, it would be easy to remove the cap and clean up that area. It may just need a replacement.

Pinball Decals.com has the white clock face decal for $12.99. The clear clock housings have been back in stock lately, but yellow and blue housings are only at Pinball Center, in Germany. They will ship to Canada but not USA. I have a blue and a clear housing and while I like both, I really like the clear. Here’s mine I just rebuilt with a new board and gears.

4B7F634F-F767-4893-8DFA-FD54E895B5EB (resized).jpeg

FC741CCD-0C3B-45B0-A571-8F68702667BD (resized).jpeg

.

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I'm not a proffession in anything but I'm a "do it all" kind of guy, so, I'm very comfortable with repairing the board, I've done repairs on boards a few times.....as long as I know exactly what components are faulty/need replacement, but if I replace the cap and the board still does'nt work that's where I'll be stuck afterwards though......

IMG_9701 (resized).JPG

I really prefer that clock face, another mod added to my list of future eventual mods.

Thanks for the tip.

I'm happy that you're willing to tackle this yourself. Those under playfield Williams/Bally boards are some of the harder boards to work on though. It's VERY easy to overheat the pad/trace on the component and have it come off the board. You might have better luck using solder wick rather than the solder pullit you have there. I assume you've also picked up some small diameter rosin core solder? Good solder also helps. I use Kester 44 Rosin Core 63/37 1LB (One Pound) Spool Solder, 0.031 diameter (MP1075). But that's a LOT if you're only doing some small repairs.

https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.com/store/tools-supplies/tools/kester-63-37-1lb-spool-solder-mp1075/

Do you have any old boards to practice on? You should also spend some time watching some videos on soldering.

The other thing to note is that there are several boards under the playfield that have that same filter cap and they should also be replaced.

Yeah, I do have smal diameter resin core solder. I'll be very carefull not to overheat because I don't have old boards to practice on. Thanks for all of the advice.

Thanks for the shout out. Glad you got in. More to come. Possibly another 25 in June.

looking at a TZ and my first upgrade is the color dmd Can some one point out the one I want. I want the one that is solid color and not the dots. IS that LED or LCD? IF anyone has an extra they never installed shoot me a pm.

LCD is the sigma one with the fill.
The LED one is discrete LED's so can't do that.

Thx!

Question for the TZ electrical guys.

What would force the machine to go directly into the LITZ whenever a ball enters the piano? No idea why this could happen, but it gets frustrating as every game will rack up billions of points and last way too long.

Anything I should look at before I dig deeper into this machine?

It happened to me as well not too long ago, you can go into LITZ by cheating, you need to press the extra ball button when the ball is in the scoop, the piano feeds the scoop, so this might be why it happens..... well, my extra ball button was stuck closed, fixed it and now it never happens.
Check your extra ball button.

.

I'll take a look. However, I disabled the LITZ cheat in the menu and it still happens, so maybe the menu doesn't control it completely. I'll look at that switch first.

Hey folks. I am doing an over the top resto on a TZ.

Regarding the black paint on the coin door. I am seeing a gloss black finish on the entire face of this door am now cleaning. Did TZ come with a gloss black door? I thought it might have been the typical semi-flat with the glossier speckles.

Just curious so it can go back correct.

Thanks.

Semi-flat with glossier speckles according to me, all of the TZ's I've owned had that on the doors.

I changed the cap once yesterday and booted the game, blew F116 and cap again, after, I unplugged the clock motor, both connectors, turned the game on after replacing the cap again on the motor board but this time I watched the small board closely, it was burning a bright fire light right next to the cap, I think it's a short between the cap and the diode, see pictures.
I did'nt wait for the fuse to blow neither did the cap blow as well, but there was a fire on there.

IMG_9703 (resized).JPG

We have a winner. Thanks.

saw some old posts about diverter magnet. Can I get one at home depot, lowes? Link to one anyone likes? Thx.

Holy smokes! There is definitely a ground short somewhere there. You will have to remove everything in that area and start checking the traces. I would suspect everything on that 5v line (pin 5 at J1). I would replace the diode (D1), the resistor (R1) and especially the 5v regulator as I suspect is your short (Q1). Oh, and your capacitor you just replaced will have to be replaced again.

Thanks for all of the advice but at this point I ordered a new board here,
ebay.com link: itm

Good luck.
I've had mixed results with gulf products and afaik they don't have schematics available.

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who's gulf products? are they the seller on Ebay?

Look at the pic of the board in your link.....

Oh boy..... I hope I won't have any trouble, I already have enough with my existing board....

That board will be fine. Probable a good decision.

I've also had mixed results with gulf products, but I will say, they've taken care of me each time I've had an issue. As far as I can tell, it's a one man operation, and he does a good job with customer support/warranty/returns.

If anyone here wants a good subwoofer for their cabinet, I've got these for sale:
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/154433

Was hoping to find someone local to shop out my twilight zone but cant find anyone in the area at the moment, figured i would post to see if anyone can help if this is something i can do myself. In the Saint Louis Mo area if anyone wants to recomend someone.

Game generally wont start just goes to testing over and over and if it does shuts down as soon as you hit flipper.

Check switch 67, 75 76 f3

Thanks

Depending on what needs to be done, shopping out a pin can be fun and rewarding. It also can be frustrating at times. If you want to try and fix it yourself, I highly recommend you go to pinwiki and read through the beginners guide and also the bally/williams wpc section. There is a lot of information there but if you read through it, you will gain a much greater ability to diagnose and repair pinball machines yourself.

To help you immediately with your problem, always start with simple fixes first. If there is some weird behavior that I come across, I always check fuses first, re-seat all connectors in the back box, and re-seat all ribbon cables. I check if there are any burn marks on plugs, wires and circuit boards. Give it a good look over to see if there is anything that doesn't look right. Often times pins can get back to working with just checking those few things. If not, you will then have to start researching what error codes pop up and how to fix them. This is were pinwiki really comes in handy. Don't be afraid to ask questions here on pinside as there are many awesome people here who are willing to help.

https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Main_Page