LTG : )

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Oh so this would make it so I don't have to Dremel holes for the bolts?

Anyway update time. I totally tore down the playfield and derusted everything and well basically fixed everything. The motor on the clock is shot, I'll need a new one. I got the gumball machine to work. Cleaned the playfield with novus 2 and then 1 then waxed. New titan rubbers, although Marcos fucked me and sent me the wrong number of required rubbers in the set and I even paid $60 for next day shipping but they won't next day me the replacements.

Anyway I'm putting everything on the playfield back together. I've never torn down a playfield before and twilight zone is no joke. This was a serious undertaking. I have literally put in 80 hours into this machine in the last week while simultaneously working a full time job. I have so many burns and cuts on my hands and my body is dying.

Anyway tomorrow I'll finish putting everything back on the playfield and I'd wager it'll be mostly playable tomorrow night. I'm missing the rubbers for the bottom of the mini playfield and also I imagine there will be a lot of bugs to workout but the majority of the work will be completed and I'll be able to start playing it and play testing it.

So yeah I turned a flooded rusted out totally fucked twilight zone into a playable machine in a week and I'm proud of that.

Yes, but at the same time, sealing the bolt behind the Radcals. Some like that clean look but I prefer the factory look with the bolts showing. Plus things are more serviceable later on.

like this...https://www.amazon.com/Hillman-Group-260209-Elevator-100-Pack/dp/B003VFZJSE/ref=sr_1_4

This is my exact thinking as well! I love the clean look but what would you do if you ever needed to remove the bolts that are now hidden behind the Radcal?!

for a home use machine, I don't think I'll ever need to replace those bolts, I perfer the look as those carriage bolts just always seem to mess up the art. YMMV

You’d have to countersink those, even tho they have a flat head. Or the Radcal won’t lay flat. I tend to agree that you could cover the bolts, and shouldn’t need to access them again. I tried to think of a reason you’d need to, but I can’t. I replace them on older WPC pins if they are tarnished, rusty or oxidized. But these you’ll never see again. It’s one option!

I had a couple of the smaller ones snap when a game was moved by STI (the bolts that hold light board in place).

You would have to counter bore the holes, correct ?

yes, I used a router with a square type cutter. I inserted the bolt, traced around it and then free handed the cut...

Ok I got the radcals. Final poll, do I put it over the bolts or not. I see a lot of mixed answers

Do what you feel is best for you… they will look great either way

Personal choice. I will probably continue to drill holes in the Radcals for the bolts. But I can see why sinking the bolts so they are flush and then covering them would produce a smooth, clean look. Here are a few pics of mine with the bolts, if it helps you decide.

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I'll prob just drill since the cabinet is all empty currently anyway

Anyway here is the current (growing) list of issues after putting everything back together

Plastic ramp entrance switch
Pops too sensitive
Ball doesn't sit in diverter
Right flashers not working
Middle skill shot switch
1000000 power bulb out
Clock needs rebuild
Top yellow pop 5 million leaf switch
Right outlane switches both
Far left outlane switch
Lower right 5 million light is out
Left spiral light is out
Gumball light board out
Door lock 1 light
Door handle
Left inlane 1
Door panel gum
Shoot again
Bonus x light
The camera light
Yellow jet bumper light
Upper left 5 million needs yellow light not orange
Right powerball light
Slot kicker
Auto launcher
Outhole

I like exposed bolts. It’s just a more authentic look.

Anyone know where this wire plug goes? I believe it is causing me several issues.

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Nowhere - it's an empty Molex connector in my game.
It seems you need a new set of lampboard.

That's an old picture, I've since cleaned everything up and resoldered and such. The only outstanding issue with that 19 lamp door board is the doorknob and one of the flashers. Both have a tiny resistor(?) attached to them that I need to try to replace first but I can't find the part number or schematics for the board. As of right now the lamp boards are pretty much the only lights working currently in the machine. GI is totally out.

I've already replaced the diodes on that board so it's not that. The connections have continuity so I'm guessing it's gotta be those little brown resistors.

They might be zero ohm resistors used as jumpers. Zero ohm resistors exist because automated insertion equipment can deal with them but can't a jumper wire.

It's these

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Someone told me I can just connect a jumper wire or component leg between them which I tried and did not work so it's back to the drawing board. I guess I could also repunch the cable to the connector since they both are linked to pin 1. Currently its the doorknob and flasher for lock 1

Those are 0-ohm jumpers, yes. They can be removed and just replaced by a wire.

FLASHER, or the LAMP for 'Lock 1'? If you ARE looking at the flasher, it's a COMPLETELY different circuit, and doesn't even share the same connector. So I'll assume that you're meaning the lamp for Lock 1.

Check that the socket tabs are making a good connection - check voltage readings at the circuit pads at each bulbs, where the black socket makes contact with the PCB.

I've reflowed those pads multiple times and jiggled the connector around with no trace of a signal so I wouldn't think it's that, I'll check the voltage though.

Ah okay then - in that case, also check the next/previous lights in that column. Does the two left inlanes light? Does the 'GUM' panel light? Those are all on the same column - if 'GUM' lights, and Lock 1 and Door Handle does not, then it's not related to the single wire point (Yellow/Orange), but each on has a failure somewhere else.

Joined the club today. Looking forward to getting it home and all cleaned up!

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Yeah gum lights up I believe

My GI is totally and completely out game wide which leads me to believe maybe a fuse? If I understand correctly there are multiple wires that control various areas of the GI so the fact that it's out everywhere leads me to believe it's not a cabling issue.

No, 5 of them. Not likely you blew all 5.

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_WPC#General_Illumination_Problems More likely burnt connector lower left side of the driver board.

LTG : )

Yeah I already replaced those 2 11pin connectors and it did nothing

Well I figured out the problem!

I'm a fuckin idiot. I never plugged back in the j115 connector

That being said much of the GI is still out but at least the backbox is lit and some of the lighting. Now maybe it's a fuse

What piano mod did you guys decided on for your TZ? Recommended seller/dealer?

Maybe measure AC to the driver board. AC leaving to the GI lines ? Narrow it down. Forget fuse. You replaced the connectors, did you replace the pins on the board ? Check continuity of each pin from the pin to a spot away from the repair area ? You may have lost through board continuity.

LTG : )

this is my favorite . . .

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I made my own, I paid 10$ CAD on Marketplace, trinkit, cut it/drilled it myself, it's got to be the good size though if you want it to fit well, lot's of searching, but is'nt that the fun part of owning pinball machines, working on them to make them nicer.....?
Made of synthetic resin, very strong.

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I checked continuity on the board when I did the board work originally because all the traces in that area looked like veins from a venomous snake bite lol. They were all good. I'm gonna screw around with it later on. Now that I have the GI working in general I can do more focused troubleshooting. With all the testing and repairs I did earlier I knew the whole GI wouldn't be out unless there was something strange going on like me being an idiot

Bought a big sheet of polycarbonate and scored and snapped off a little protector for my clock mod. Balls were bouncing up into it. It’s not elegant, but it’s functional. I might polish the edges with a dremel.

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Reminds me of the air all protector for Indians Jones. Good idea

Looks nice!

I have a small issue on my TZ and was wondering if anyone has experienced anything similar so thought I'd ask, the power diverter seems to be too close to the ramp and over time has scratched the metal where it meets the ramp switch bracket. I used a Dremel to try and smooth out the edge on the bracket but I still think it might be too close, and before I put on the sticker mod I got, I wanted to make sure it still wasn't making contact (Hence the sticker on it now just to test) Long story short, is there an adjustment to move the power diverter or even the full wireform more to the left?

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Try loosening the screws holding the wireform in place to see if you have some play in there to move it over a tad. If that doesn’t work check to see if your ramp could be adjusted over to the right. Maybe a little movement in both wireform and the ramp could get you where you need to be stop the contact

Does anyone have an old powerball they want to sell? I could use them for a project I'm working on with my son. I'm looking for two of them. PM me. Thanks!

I have new and used, what you want ? ? ?

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Have you ever walked *in* a Twilight Zone Pinball? I did...
Had the opportunity to help in making a video about the most beautiful designed pinball game room in the world. Together with Peer (owner of the Dutch Pinball museum in Rotterdam, the guy in the pacman suit) we made quite a trip to get there. I was really flabbergasted on how the theme integrations was done in this game room. Pressing start activates sound and light and starts up the pinball machines.

You can see the video on the Youtube channel from Dutch Pinball Museum (english subtitles are available):

I was one of the testers and I would say, this worked and looks great. Before I had put the LED's in the stock board and you could see the lights as individual, now its even lighting which is great. I have attached photos of before and after. Top is the new board. Thanks again John at GameRoom

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