This TZ met Hurricane Ian straight on
20859D44-B957-466D-8088-D4304E7BAAD2 (resized).jpegQuoted from Coyote:I laughed when I saw the clock's hour hand off. Idiots.
Why are they idiots?
Quoted from Green-Machine:Why are they idiots?
Maybe 'idiots' is too strong.
If you're going to have an A+ lookin' machine, follow the steps in the manual and get the clock looking good.
Quoted from Green-Machine:I guess I’m an idiot too[quoted image]
Me three! How do we fix it? It is only off a tiny bit so it must be minor. I hope!
Quoted from jid:Me three! How do we fix it? It is only off a tiny bit so it must be minor. I hope!
Yeah, okay -
When the hour hand isn't dead on the hour, it means that the cluster gears weren't lined up (properly, or at all) wen the clock was reassembled.
Go to page 1-51 (pdf page 59) of the manual, pay close attention to steps #4, #5, and #6. This is where the alignment comes into play.
Depending on the number of teeth gears you get off drastically offset the hour (relatively speaking) hand, and subsequently the hour opto interrupter. In your example, the gears were just off by a couple teeth. In the article above, they put a gear on 180-degrees backwards. (I recognize this, because I've been there..! )
Weird TZ question. When my diverter magnet drops the ball onto the lane by the upper left flipper, the entire upper playfield shakes. Is this normal or are there some bolts I need to tighten?
I can’t remember if it has always been that way (only owned this game for 2 years) but I’ve definitely been noticing it lately.
Thank you!!
Quoted from jid:Weird TZ question. When my diverter magnet drops the ball onto the lane by the upper left flipper, the entire upper playfield shakes. Is this normal or are there some bolts I need to tighten?
I can’t remember if it has always been that way (only owned this game for 2 years) but I’ve definitely been noticing it lately.
Thank you!!
No, you have something loose.
Check:
- The screw holding the metal ramp to the post to the left of the main ramp entrance.
- The screw holding the metal ramp to the power playfield (up under the 'street light')
- The hex screws holding the power field to the wood rail on the outside of the playfield. There's the read metal frame bracket, and the front one opposite the adjusting spring mount.
- The adjustable spring mount is secure.
That's about it.
Quoted from Coyote:No, you have something loose.
Check:
- The screw holding the metal ramp to the post to the left of the main ramp entrance.
- The screw holding the metal ramp to the power playfield (up under the 'street light')
- The hex screws holding the power field to the wood rail on the outside of the playfield. There's the read metal frame bracket, and the front one opposite the adjusting spring mount.
- The adjustable spring mount is secure.
That's about it.
Will check it out and report back! Thank you so much!
Quoted from Coyote:No, you have something loose.
Check:
- The screw holding the metal ramp to the post to the left of the main ramp entrance.
- The screw holding the metal ramp to the power playfield (up under the 'street light')
- The hex screws holding the power field to the wood rail on the outside of the playfield. There's the read metal frame bracket, and the front one opposite the adjusting spring mount.
- The adjustable spring mount is secure.
That's about it.
Is there supposed to be a screw or something right here? This is the entry to the upper playfield.
F3E422C0-5CDD-45D8-8B1F-CB8F09ED914B (resized).jpegQuoted from slochar:yes, sorry about the bad pic[quoted image]
Good enough to show me I am missing a screw! Looks like pretty much any screw will do. I guess it hasn’t been there in a while since there is so much dust on that. Thank you all! I’ll find something that works!
Quoted from Coyote:What slochar says. Heh!
I THINK it's a 10-32, tho I admit I haven't had to replace that one (in a looong while..)
Edit: It's a 8-32 1/2"
Quoted from Planet866:I believe it's a 6-32 1/2" or 3/4"
I thought it was a larger size, but I'll take your word on it. (Again, it's been a while since I've had it out..!)
It's easy enough to remove that wireform and right ramp, I'd take the thing off and take it with you to a hardware store to match up the screw with the hole it goes into. I'm fairly certain it's a sheet metal screw, not a wood screw, and it's best to not strip it out with something that's wrong for it. Taking it with you will allow you to try out as many screws as you want until you find the right size, thread pitch, and length to properly replace he screw.
Quoted from Coyote:I thought it was a larger size, but I'll take your word on it. (Again, it's been a while since I've had it out..!)
You were right it's 8-32 1/2" keps 4008-01003-08
Quoted from Planet866:You were right it's 8-32 1/2" keps 4008-01003-08
Bought an 8-32 and should have checked first. It must be stripped out on my machine (hence the missing screw) as that doesn’t grab any threads. More screws for the parts bin!
Quoted from jid:Bought an 8-32 and should have checked first. It must be stripped out on my machine (hence the missing screw) as that doesn’t grab any threads. More screws for the parts bin!
Maybe tap it or go 10-32.... probably a way to hack something in there so that you get it secure.
Quoted from jid:Bought an 8-32 and should have checked first. It must be stripped out on my machine (hence the missing screw) as that doesn’t grab any threads. More screws for the parts bin!
pretty sure thats an 8-32...retap the hole...
Fairly sure it's a sheetmetal screw you should be looking for as I don't remember there being a captured nut in there and the piece that it screws into is just a thick piece of metal. That means that it's not a coarse or a fine bolt as the piece isn't threaded, it's literally just a sheetmetal screw.
Quoted from Miguel351:Fairly sure it's a sheetmetal screw you should be looking for as I don't remember there being a captured nut in there and the piece that it screws into is just a thick piece of metal. That means that it's not a coarse or a fine bolt as the piece isn't threaded, it's literally just a sheetmetal screw.
No definitely a machine screw...and pretty sure its an 8-32 x 1/2...you put a sheet metal screw in there...and you will have a stripped out hole for sure..
Quoted from Miguel351:Fairly sure it's a sheetmetal screw you should be looking for as I don't remember there being a captured nut in there and the piece that it screws into is just a thick piece of metal. That means that it's not a coarse or a fine bolt as the piece isn't threaded, it's literally just a sheetmetal screw.
Quoted from monkfe:No definitely a machine screw...and pretty sure its an 8-32 x 1/2...you put a sheet metal screw in there...and you will have a stripped out hole for sure..
Thanks for confirming that. I've got parts all over the top of mine from one of my other games so I couldn't get into it and check it to be sure.
Now I'm really curious as to which one I was thinking of...
Quoted from usul27:It's 8-32:[quoted image]
Mine is definitely stripped. Can I put a washer and a lock nut on the bottom or will that be an issue? I can’t remember what is directly below that.
Holy hell, I haven't seen those in 20+ years. One of them - either the second or third - goes on top of the shooter/autofire lane gate.
The others, I can't even say. They weren't shipped with sample games, so my game never had them...
Quoted from jid:Mine is definitely stripped. Can I put a washer and a lock nut on the bottom or will that be an issue? I can’t remember what is directly below that.
The hitchiker passageway. It MAY be tight - but more importantly, it'd be difficult as heck to remove with the powerfield all mounted up in place...
Quoted from Coyote:The hitchiker passageway. It MAY be tight - but more importantly, it'd be difficult as heck to remove with the powerfield all mounted up in place...
I’ll take another look. Good call on the hitchhiker. I will probably just need to tap it. If it will tap.
Will take another look momentarily…
Quoted from jid:Mine is definitely stripped. Can I put a washer and a lock nut on the bottom or will that be an issue? I can’t remember what is directly below that.
not really as the nut would be under the playfield (mini). I don't think you'd be able to put a wrench on it(but I haven't looked )....Have you just tried re-tapping the hole? easy enough
Embarrassed but happy…. All fixed!
The 8-32 fit perfectly when I put a little pressure on the ramp from the bottom. And aligned the hole.
8-32 is absolutely it! You guys rock!
Can’t wait to test to see how much less shake I have!
Thank you all!!
Finally getting around to rad cals. They’ve been lying here for 2-3 years . Bout time. Looks fantastic.
8D3EFF5C-EC71-4DB1-A29E-BC5FFD121929 (resized).jpegC41A877B-DB15-46C7-8568-ABBC4548D61F (resized).jpegC5C12FFE-F8F6-4F22-A5B0-E91545BDCF9E (resized).jpegF3D6EC59-811A-44C7-88F3-A60ECB3ED50D (resized).jpegQuoted from PolePosition:Looks great! What type of cabinet prep did you do?
Thanks! Just some novus 1 sprayed and wiped down. It’s what I had lying around but it did the job.
Quoted from Scoot:It looks like a Dredd topper on a Twilight Zone. ???
Figured the extra topper would be better off there than in storage
Yo, was wondering if anyone has ever bought a CPR speaker skin for their TZ?
https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-speaker-skins/twilightzone/
Out of thousands of TZ pics on Pinside I haven't been able to find a single picture of it...maybe that speaks for itself. Looks kind of nice, but before buying I was wondering if anyone out there had a picture of their machine with this thing on it. Thanks in advance!
Quoted from usul27:Can somebody say where these plastics should be mounted?[quoted image]
Some of the pieces look like leftover clears from Funhouse.
You can see the pop corn shapes.
Quoted from MasterClyde:Yo, was wondering if anyone has ever bought a CPR speaker skin for their TZ?
https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-speaker-skins/twilightzone/
Out of thousands of TZ pics on Pinside I haven't been able to find a single picture of it...maybe that speaks for itself. Looks kind of nice, but before buying I was wondering if anyone out there had a picture of their machine with this thing on it. Thanks in advance!
If you buy it, please post pics! We all want to see it and hear how it fits!
Quoted from vec-tor:Some of the pieces look like leftover clears from Funhouse.
You can see the pop corn shapes.
All of them are for TZ.
The part number 31-1765 prefix belongs to TZ playfield plastics. It's in the parts list.
Quoted from Davi:All of them are for TZ.
The part number 31-1765 prefix belongs to TZ playfield plastics. It's in the parts list.
Yes, you are correct. However, Funhouse also has the same corny odd shapes too.
I believe Pat Lawlor designed both Funhouse and TZ games so it wouldn't pass me that
some of the shapes could have a popcorn style shape in the mix; Kind of like
a clear "Easter Eggs".
I have a really nice TZ. My one complaint is the translite reflection on the glass. I do have complete led's which are bright. Will the mirrored backglass help with the reflection?
thanks
Quoted from Pinkitten:My mirrored backglass arrived safely, despite shipping. Box was pretty chewed up and wet. But the packing by CPR is respectable for sure. The glass is thick, thicker than the stock glass and translite. So putting the plastic trim/channels on it wasn’t easy. But it looks great to me!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Quoted from driller:I have a really nice TZ. My one complaint is the translite reflection on the glass. I do have complete led's which are bright. Will the mirrored backglass help with the reflection?
thanks
Get your self a piece of Voo Doo glass for it. It will cut down on the reflection
Quoted from driller:I have a really nice TZ. My one complaint is the translite reflection on the glass. I do have complete led's which are bright. Will the mirrored backglass help with the reflection?
thanks
This will block out the DMD
http://bentplastic.com/index.html
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