I’m looking for a little help here. I’ve had my TZ for about three months and I’ve had this happen twice now.

The ball rolled slowly under the power playfield. I think it was “The Camera” shot, but I’m not sure. Anyway, the ball disappears and is never seen again. I think it is down under the playfield because I can’t find it, ball search can’t find it and shaking the crap out of the machine doesn’t break it loose. The only way to get the ball back is to take the glass off and raise the playfield about 1/2 way until I hear a clank. I raised the playfield up the rest of the way trying to figure out where the ball was, but I didn’t see it. When I lowered the playfield, the ball came rolling out from under the power field.

I tried removing the metal trough under the camera hole and everything looks good. I also tried to replicate the problem, but I wasn’t successful.

Has anybody else seen something like this before? I can’t find anyplace where the ball can get stuck, but I’m obviously missing something.

Thanks for any ideas.

Very strange. Here is a pic under the upper playfield. Maybe it can help.

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Yes, this happened on mine some time ago. It was the plastic in the above picture (the one that has 1c on it). The front of it was bent down a bit, thus lodging the ball stuck. I applied a little heat to it and straightened it out, and it's been fine ever since. Perhaps you have the same problem; definitely worth checking out.

I seem to recall someone else with a similar problem years ago. Underneath the mini-playfield there is fish paper (thin cardboard-like sheet) that hides the wiring and switches and prevents the pinball from banging into anything underneath the mini-playfield and causing a potential short or breaking a switch or diode.

If this fish paper gets distorted, torn or bent over the years it can provide an avenue for the pinball to lodge between the fish paper and the mini-playfield and a ball search would not dislodge the pinball. When you lift the playfield it would roll out like you describe. This is just something that you may want to check.

Gord

@scoot, @scotty_k, GRB1959 Thanks everyone for the ideas. I’m leaving town for a week so I won’t have a chance to test these out right away. I’ll drop an update once I figure out what’s going on.

Try replacing your balls. Same thing happened to me. The old balls were magnetized and getting hung up somewhere out of site. The problem totally went away after a ball swap.

Couple of questions:

1. My left flipper is somewhat randomly sticking in the "up" position. This seems to occur most frequently after holding the left flipper in the "up" position for awhile (like 15-20 seconds or so) but it is still kind of random. It's frequent enough that it is causing a gameplay issue. I haven't had a chance to diagnose this but anyone else have this issue on TZ and if so what was the cause? I'm thinking (1) worn or busted coil stop; (2) broken return spring; (3) perhaps interference between flipper link and bushing mounting bolts; or out of whack EOS. I can take an under PF pic when I'm able but curious to hear thoughts from the group on this.

2. So I have LEDs and my TZ but no LED OCD / GI OCD Board. It looks like I'm getting some "ghosting" primarily in the Door insert (particularly the "Fast Lock" insert and the "Lock Inserts"). Also, to be clear, when I say "ghosting" I mean the bulb still appears to be lit but very dimly even when that insert is not engaged. The effect is most noticeable during attract mode when the door inserts cycle rapidly. It doesn't affect gameplay and the LEDs otherwise work fine (i.e., are lit when supposed to be lit). If this is a normal issue when not using the LED OCD / GI OCD boards on 90s B/W games than so be it. Just wondering.

Thanks all -- Happy Holidays!

Remove coil stop, slide coil off plunger, is coil stop worn, not flat any more ? End of plunger mushroomed or have a sharp edge ? Coil sleeve cracked or dirt ?

If so time to rebuild flipper(s) new plunger assembly, new coil stop, new coil sleeve.

Also be sure the flipper bat has a tiny bit of up and down play ( not back and forth ) to prevent binding under the playfield between the pawl and nylon bushing the flipper shaft goes through.

LTG : )

Thanks Lloyd -- That'll be where I start troubleshooting. I did check the flipper to playfield clearance and that seemed OK, but will check that again also.

Any idea why the backboard is shaped that way (with the top corners cut diagonally) and not a straight rectangle??

OSHA standards…. It’s probably to avoid hitting something in the cab when you have the playfield in upward position

Everything Lloyd said. Basically, if you rebuild the entire flipper and leave the proper clearance, you’re back in business.

It’s possible one part is at fault, but just rebuild the whole flipper…Both flippers…with a kit from pinball life.

I have a tendency to sometimes just switch out coil stops and sleeves on a more regular basis to keep things snappy, and I had actually just done that on my TZ a few months ago, but a few days ago I had the same issue you’re describing. So I took a look and sure enough my plunger assembly was at fault. Replaced and good to go. Had I rebuilt the entire flipper months ago it would still be snappy and fine.

Thanks--will more than likely go the rebuild route...

UPDATE: Removed the coil stop, sleeve and examined the plunger. See pics. The plunger doesn't appear to have a crazy amount of mushrooming but does appear a bit gnarled and not as smooth as it should be. Coil stop does appear to be a bit concave (slightly) and coil sleeve is a bit dirty but not cracked or deformed. Are my observations correct about the state of the coil stop and plunger? Or besides being a bit dirty, do they still look serviceable (I realize it's a bit hard to tell from pictures? Appreciate the input.

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IMHO, for the cost? Just replace them all. Since it's already that much apart, you'll save more in time and money replacing everything now (except the coil, of course), then replacing only a couple ites and then needing to again in a shorter amount of time.

Yeah... figured as much. Question is whether I just get two full "flipper assemblies" replacement from Pinball Life which will be bolt up solutions with new bushings, etc. or get rebuild kits. Either way, I'll have to do some soldering...

I found these to be less expensive than Pinball life.
ebay.com link: itm

No soldering required for rebuild kit unless you change the EOS switches which probably isn’t necessary.

Never mind my post, I just checked and Pinball Life is cheaper.
I wish I could order from them, I once tried and in no way he would let me order, I had to order through a friend who had some family members in the U.S. , otherwise, they won't accept to sell to someone who has an address in Canada, they chack with the address on the Paypal orders .... Why? beats me? Many Pinheads from Canada have also tried and it was always an issue......

Did you check Planetary Pinball Supply or Marco Specialties ?

And instead of kits, did you try pricing just the plungers assemblies - 2 left 2 right, 4 coil stops, 4 coil sleeves ?

LTG : )

My little dirty little trick with flippers.
1) Plunger and link assembly:
a: use a flat blade screw driver and flair the end point slightly.
-- assemblies need wiggle room...

True, overlooked that you won't necessarily replace the coil doing a rebuild, but I have heard that unsoldering the coil to the do the rebuild makes life a lot easier such that you're unsoldering the coil and then soldering it back when you're done with the rebuild.

Can LTG or anyone else comment on whether it's feasible to rebuild flipper mechs without unsoldering the coil. Obviously if you're getting a whole new flipper assembly then you'll have to resolder the coil and EOS...

Rebuild kits usually don't come with EOSs, and you really don't have to replace them unless they're bent or damaged. So, yeah - no soldering. Take off the coil stop, take out the coil sleeve, let the coil hang. Replace the linkage and bushing, then slip new coil sleeve in. Slip coild around linkage, and then slip on new coil stop and screw down.

Hey, thanks for the tips. I'll check that out.

I never unsolder the coil.

When I rebuild a flipper : Turn game off. Remove two screws holding coil stop on, toss the coil stop. Slide the coil down and leave hang, remove old coil sleeve and toss it. Unbolt the plunger from flipper shaft, slide flipper up and either out or leave in place, remove plunger assembly and unhook from spring to EOS bracket. Toss plunger assembly.

Reassemble - hook spring back on new plunger assembly, put new plunger assembly back in and slide pawl over flipper shaft. Then put new coil sleeve in coil and then slide coil back on and line up so coil sleeve goes in the bracket near the pawl. Put on new coil stop and two screws. Then start to tighten nut holding pawl to flipper shaft. Just enough so flipper bat barely turns, pull flipper bat up so there is a little up/down play on flipper bat ( up and down, not back and forth ) lower playfield and the line flipper bat back up where I want it. Lift playfield. Then tighten the beejeebers out of that nut so flipper shaft doesn't turn.

I do one flipper at a time. So I can compare to others to see where parts go. ( I don't really do this, this part I posted for beginners ).

If flipper bat moves freely and returns to down position. Move onto the next flipper.

LTG : )

This video can help with a flipper spacer gauge. ( another thing I don't use )

LTG : )

Anyone else feel like the left side of this game isn’t really used too much? Pops you want to always stay out of due to cheap drains so you’re avoiding that shot. The upper pf is cool but you’re really just slamming away at the buttons and it’s not really a shot per say besides that hold left flipper up and shot in the hole which gets kicked out by slot machine. Finally, the gumball is super cool but again not a shot but something that takes up real estate. Am I missing something?

Overall I agree the game is played predominantly on the centre and right side, although I do enjoy going for dead-ends, where you shoot from the lower right through the pops

I've got to correct myself, I just realized that I made a mistake, it was'nt Pinball Life that refuses to sell to Canadians, it's Mad Amusements.
I'm sorry about the confusion.......

Thanks guys... those descriptions help. One final thing, I've read that although the rebuild kits don't come with them, one should get new bushings and bushing hardware. In your opinion, is that necessary if nothing else than just for precaution? If so, do I need the bushing and hardware or just the plastic bushing? Again, thanks mucho.

I admittedly thought the bushings came in the kit. It's been a while since I've rebuilt my flippers (the time is nearing..) - I would honestly only replace them if they seem to have a lot of play in them. For me, complete gut feeling when I do. It's not too much of a huge deal to replace them, other than needing to take the mounting plate off the playfield.

I'd say that if you can't remember, don't know the last time they were replaced, do it. Then, you should be good for a long while.

I closed up my left outlane as much as the adjustment allows, and I shot to the pops—along with skill shots—is far less risky. It’s kinda fun building the town square bonus and nailing dead ends. On a good game, dead ends can be worth more than multiball jackpots, plus it builds towards an extra ball.

OK - I can't say when the bushings were last replaced so probably best to pick up some & new hardware for same and install.

Then your job gets a little bigger. You have to remove 8 screws and lower the flipper base plate so you can get at the screw heads on one side and the nuts on the other.

Myself, I don't usually mess with them. Clean them, run a QTip through them. And check for cracks or breaks. If cracked then I replace them.

Only game I do it if rebuilding the flipper is AFM or AFMR. That left flipper takes a beating and is usually cracked or soon will be. I don't like working on stuff twice.

LTG : )

The left side of the playfield is definitely used less, but there is strategy and timing on the upper playfield.

My basic strategy is Left Ramp -> Slot Machine, rinse and repeat to keep getting door awards. Same with Right Ramp -> Piano.

If you can get multiple modes going at once, especially Clock or Spiral and then pair with a multiball, that's where the big points can come from.

If you build all of that up on a single ball and then get Lost In The Zone, those mode score values carry over into it.

I’m lucky I don’t get many unfair drains out of the pops, maybe I have the left outlane especially tight. I like the shot through the pops into the scoop in the back corner, and I love shooting the camera shot. On my upper pf, there is some strategy i finally discovered. I only beat the power about 25% of the time, which I like. On my game, the only way to send the ball up toward the scoop to defeat the power is to let the ball come down to the bottom of the magnet zones, and then try to throw the ball up. You can find the sweet spot, but it’s not easy. Definitely not just mashing buttons, which would take the fun out of it. Probably wouldn’t do much on my example.

I do find some pins have unused real estate, but I haven’t felt that on my TZ, personally.

Got it. Well, the bushings are cheap from Pinball Life and I'm sure the hardware is too. So, when I purchase the rebuild kits I'll just get some bushings and hardware as well to have on hand. Hopefully I won't need them.

FWIW, The TZ was routed early in its life but I've owned it since 1999 and in 23 years it hasn't seen a whole lot of plays (this and two other machines were at my parents home and once I moved out in 2002/2003 they received very little play until I took possession of them again in 2021, so chances are the bushing is probably OK)

Is it possible to change the default high scores? I have 9.4H installed. I’ve tried, but when I exit out of the menu, the default ones remain. Thanks!

I removed the twin rubbers on the inlane on the left side and the outlanes are now much more manageable.

It is fun and can take a few tries.

Go into Adjustments - A.4 11,12,13, &14. Lower them there. Then exit out of stuff to attract mode. Then press and hold the begin test button.

Any kind of luck it will work. Or keep trying.

LTG : )

Been having issues with the clock. As you can see in the video, in test mode it’s controllable. It stops, reverses both slowly and fast, but no forward. When I exit the menu, or when turning the machine on, it continuously works, but in reverse mode only.

Thanx

You have definitely entered the twilight zone! Are the optos not registering?
The minute hand might not be breaking the twelve o’clock opto. So it’s just searching for 12 o’clock
Also check dc motor drive board. Maybe some soldering issues. You could try resoldering the L6203 on the motor control board ...

Likely you need a new motor driver board (or get the current one repaired). It's mounted under the playfield, near the clock, where the clock's motor plugs in.

Yea we’ve been at it for a week or two now, no luck yet. Might just have to get a new one.

I didn't look up the schematic, but I assume the motor driver board reveres the polarity at the motor depending on whether its going forward or backward...are you seeing this reversal in test with the motor removed?

Will look into that too. Much thanks

Does someone have a good example of Pin Stadium lights on their Twilight Zone? Pictures, maybe a video? I’ll restore a TZ soon and I’m hesitating. I’m worried the strong lights will “wash out” the iconic playfield. So should I leave it as the pretty dark game it is, or are Pin Stadium lights an option…
Thanks!

Does anyone know if there is a source for the lighted aprons for TZ? I see them come up once in a while but have never been quick enough to snag one. I wasn’t sure if anyone here made them or knew how to source them.

Thank you!

I had a very similar issue a while back. Take the glass off and roll a ball down the rail to see if it rolls free. Mine was hitting the one of the support braces that run side to side. Ball would either bump over it and stay on ramp or get knocked off. I replaced the wireform ramp and that fixed it.

Normal yes. That is ghosting and every game is a little different. The OCD boards definitely fix ghosting issues and allow you to use factory fade effects. I love these boards and have them in all my games.