(Topic ID: 63352)

Twilight Zone Owner's club

By Caucasian2Step

10 years ago


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There are 15,098 posts in this topic. You are on page 262 of 302.
#13052 1 year ago

He sells them. They are $155 through his store on Pinside.

#13053 1 year ago

235 AUD is about 150 US. The exchange rate is rather favorable. Or there is the Pinside Store for them.

I did the same thing though… saw the price and winced. Then I ordered one!

#13054 1 year ago
Quoted from ramegoom:

No visible issues, but I am going to look at the LM339 abd ULN2803 chips as my door switch signal doesn't seem to be making it to the processor - keeps telling me to open the door before I go through the menu buttons.

Maybe you've already isolated this issue to the CPU board and sw#22, but if you haven't, was the coin door open or closed, when you got this message?

If the coin door is open when getting this message, then I'd use the technique described here https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_WPC#Switch_Matrix_Problems to confirm whether the issue is on the CPU board or in the game wiring/switch, before investigating the chips on the board.

If the coin door is closed, then the coin door closed (aka memory protect) switch (#22) is working, as the machine is actually sensing switch closures on the diag switches (direct switches), but given the coin door is closed (ie memory protect is enabled) these are ignored and the warning is flashed on the DMD. In this case, I'd used the method covered in the "Isolate the problem to the MPU or to the game wiring/switch" section of https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_WPC#Direct_Switch_Problems to help isolate where the issue is.

Hope this is helpful (and sorry if you're already well past this stage)

#13055 1 year ago
Quoted from ramegoom:

lack of volume control (goes to MAX)

Sound board issue, not MPU. New MPU won't fix this.

#13056 1 year ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Sound board issue, not MPU. New MPU won't fix this.

I was thinking that was the logical choice too, but at times, the sound goes back to normal. Only when the entire machine acts up does the volume max out. Very weird.

#13057 1 year ago
Quoted from jid:

235 AUD is about 150 US. The exchange rate is rather favorable. Or there is the Pinside Store for them.
I did the same thing though… saw the price and winced. Then I ordered one!

Oh! I did'nt notice that the dollars were Australien dollars, much better price now.

#13058 1 year ago
Quoted from ramegoom:

I was thinking that was the logical choice too, but at times, the sound goes back to normal. Only when the entire machine acts up does the volume max out. Very weird.

Hhhmm.. Okay, that COULD be the MPU then, yeah! But.. in case it's not, be prepared to change that little volume pot IC on the sound board.

#13059 1 year ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Hhhmm.. Okay, that COULD be the MPU then, yeah! But.. in case it's not, be prepared to change that little volume pot IC on the sound board.

U5 = Williams part number 5432-12726-00 = EE Prom Pot x9503

#13060 1 year ago

The beauty of these 90s two-layer PC boards is the ease of solder removal. Added a few sockets to the board. I'm surprised the RAM isn't socketed from the factory though - those seem to act up in time. I'm tempted to socket all of the ICs on the board.

Have another question: Regarding the DIP switch on the board shown, I can't find any reference in the manual that shows what it does. What do the switch settings represent?

20221107_102509 (resized).jpg20221107_102509 (resized).jpg
20221107_122130 (resized).jpg20221107_122130 (resized).jpg

#13061 1 year ago
Quoted from ramegoom:

What do the switch settings represent?

Country settings.

https://www.flippers.be/basics/101_wpc_country_settings.html

LTG : )

#13062 1 year ago
Quoted from ramegoom:

I'm surprised the RAM isn't socketed from the factory though - those seem to act up in time.

Good job on the IC removal! The boards were not meant to last much longer than the machine. They weren't expected to last more than a few years so why bother adding cost to the BOM for no gain.

Note that you have a 62256 so if you intend to replace that SRAM with NVRAM you will need to acquire a 62256 compatible NVRAM. You can acquire a 6264 and install R93/remove W3 on the board change the RAM addressing configuration.

#13063 1 year ago
Quoted from DumbAss:

Good job on the IC removal! The boards were not meant to last much longer than the machine. They weren't expected to last more than a few years so why bother adding cost to the BOM for no gain.
Note that you have a 62256 so if you intend to replace that SRAM with NVRAM you will need to acquire a 62256 compatible NVRAM. You can acquire a 6264 and install R93/remove W3 on the board change the RAM addressing configuration.

I have used Pace de-soldering machines for many years. My longest lasting one is actually a Pace Portable that was designed to run on AC and also 12 VDC where you can use it under the hood of a car, attaching to the cars' battery. I bought this one back in 1982 and it out-lived two larger units.

I found a couple of the Mosel chips in my old-stock surplus so I'll stick with it for now. Amazing how much old stuff you accumulate. I even found some Motorola DTL chips that go way back.

#13064 1 year ago

Hi TZ clock experts! I just replaced my Pinball Lizard clock board that wasn’t working right with a Casper board. Took the time to swap the housing and new face decal too. Looks nice, I think, but I cannot get this clock to 12:00 noon or to work properly. I read the install instructions carefully, and tried to follow the Ed Cheung instructions for lining up the gears correctly too, but I’ll admit I can’t follow it. My white gears feel locked in place when the game of off, so I can’t move them, I can only reposition the large black gear that drives the hour hand. My game doesn’t send the clock to 12:00 noon on power up, so I’m not sure where to start.

If someone here is super familiar with the clock gears and how to get it set to 12:00 noon and could PM me, I would really appreciate it! Maybe someone can walk me through setting the gears.

The photo shows my new clear clock and white prototype face decal, with the hands set to noon, which is how I installed it. But on power up, it changes the clock to weird random times. Definitely doesn’t find 12:00.

Thank you!

0AC9C333-A9E4-4CAC-B33A-E21186C87831 (resized).jpeg0AC9C333-A9E4-4CAC-B33A-E21186C87831 (resized).jpeg7990C647-2980-456D-ABF2-08316E820339 (resized).png7990C647-2980-456D-ABF2-08316E820339 (resized).png
#13065 1 year ago

Installed my new clock board, housing and face today! Had trouble getting the 12:00 setting at first, despite the instructions and Ed Cheung tips. I found this step-by-step on Pinball Info, which explained the tiny teeth on the white gears and how to align them. Now it’s 12:00 exactly on start up!

AB6A0A85-8765-46BA-8A22-AE74BE24F9CC (resized).pngAB6A0A85-8765-46BA-8A22-AE74BE24F9CC (resized).pngDCA357C2-8F9A-457A-8350-92CFF372B755 (resized).jpegDCA357C2-8F9A-457A-8350-92CFF372B755 (resized).jpeg

#13066 1 year ago

Found one of the newly released invaders. Gonna light him up eventually

4CD065B9-A421-4623-A7FC-E3608D01632E (resized).jpeg4CD065B9-A421-4623-A7FC-E3608D01632E (resized).jpeg
#13067 1 year ago
Quoted from PinballGalore:

Found one of the newly released invaders. Gonna light him up eventually
[quoted image]

A more fitting location

739D2F51-2B12-436B-9564-BB58F3D48574 (resized).jpeg739D2F51-2B12-436B-9564-BB58F3D48574 (resized).jpeg
#13068 1 year ago

Man I despise snap caps. I find it hard to believe that anyone can consistently remove them without trashing the though holes. 25 years of board work and almost every time, they pull out. This time I tried the “rocking” method, heat one side and wiggle it out a bit, move to the other side and do the same, repeat until it’s out - with the through hole still attached. That’s after many attempts with the Hakko 808, which never completely loosened it.

Anyhow, jumpers don’t bother me. All new caps installed, including the smaller ones. Should be good for 20 years or so…

I upgraded to the EZSBC voltage regulator too.
CF8D0D58-4A33-4576-9110-59CCE19FCF75 (resized).jpegCF8D0D58-4A33-4576-9110-59CCE19FCF75 (resized).jpeg1CF0018A-142C-4346-9112-0657A5C40551 (resized).jpeg1CF0018A-142C-4346-9112-0657A5C40551 (resized).jpegB9AFE755-B73B-4F41-8461-6C7A7DD85916 (resized).jpegB9AFE755-B73B-4F41-8461-6C7A7DD85916 (resized).jpeg9976BA8A-E6B2-4612-AC92-A4034EE86C30 (resized).jpeg9976BA8A-E6B2-4612-AC92-A4034EE86C30 (resized).jpeg

#13069 1 year ago

Question for you mod guys. I bought one of the mini TVs that display images, and connect to the TP1 12v pole on the power driver board. However, I have a Rottendog driver board, which doesn’t appear to have the 12v pole. Anyone know if I can tap into the 12v power supply safely for this mod?

Here is the original and what it looks like on my board.

06CBE26F-7122-43F3-9639-CD4F12F653E5 (resized).png06CBE26F-7122-43F3-9639-CD4F12F653E5 (resized).png542C9DF2-C827-4EBF-A4D2-B7A3C7367238 (resized).png542C9DF2-C827-4EBF-A4D2-B7A3C7367238 (resized).png
#13070 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

Question for you mod guys. I bought one of the mini TVs that display images, and connect to the TP1 12v pole on the power driver board. However, I have a Rottendog driver board, which doesn’t appear to have the 12v pole. Anyone know if I can tap into the 12v power supply safely for this mod?
Here is the original and what it looks like on my board.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Clip it to the resistor.

#13071 1 year ago

Just a friendly reminder to put your batteries remote or install NVRAM.

Many, many years ago (a decade, just guessing) my batteries leaked. I used vinegar to neutralize it and put in NVRAM. Problem solved, or so I thought.

This week, my switches went haywire. Mainly row 3, but other rows had sporadic errors too. I assumed my 12V unregulated supply was struggling due to the colordmd and the fact that a lot of optos seemed to be involved. Replaced all of the caps on my driver board, problem persisted. No regrets, it needed done anyhow.

I pulled the CPU and the problem was obvious. The alkaline wasn’t totally neutralized. The solder joints for R27 through R30 looked like shit. A quick test with the meter showed no continuity between R28 and the LM339. Ugh.

For now, I put in a jumper to fix the issue, and all is working. But, it’s a matter of time before more issues pop up. I love keeping my machines original, but the CPU may be on its last leg. The damage extends beyond the resistors, unfortunately.

In short, get your batteries off the CPU board. I spent a better part of today chasing my tail over some silly alkaline damage.

#13072 1 year ago

Anyone recently bought the Mirco radacals for this one? Good or bad experiences? Thank you.

#13073 1 year ago
Quoted from Dan1733:

Anyone recently bought the Mirco radacals for this one? Good or bad experiences? Thank you.

I used radcals on my cab within the year. I'm happy with them. No issues that I can tell. Colors and fitment are accurate. It's a good product.

#13074 1 year ago
Quoted from PinJim:

Man I despise snap caps. I find it hard to believe that anyone can consistently remove them without trashing the though holes. 25 years of board work and almost every time, they pull out. This time I tried the “rocking” method, heat one side and wiggle it out a bit, move to the other side and do the same, repeat until it’s out - with the through hole still attached. That’s after many attempts with the Hakko 808, which never completely loosened it.
Anyhow, jumpers don’t bother me. All new caps installed, including the smaller ones. Should be good for 20 years or so…
I upgraded to the EZSBC voltage regulator too.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Chris Hibler has a great youtube video on how he removes these caps using a wide blade soldering tip...but the concept is that they need to be heated up at the same time...I didn't want to purchase the high end blade tip as they're really expensive so I use my desoldering gun along with my regular soldering tip and heat both the legs at the same time(two people help here) and they pretty much just fall right out...(I add some solder to them first to get the heat moving better)try this next time...

#13075 1 year ago
Quoted from Dan1733:

Anyone recently bought the Mirco radacals for this one? Good or bad experiences? Thank you.

If you buy them...use elevator bolts to keep the hardware hidden, on the top box I grind down the carriage bolts heads a bit and recess them to hide them as well...the receiver bolts can also be purchased as elevator bolts as well and everything is hidden (bolt wise that is)

#13076 1 year ago
Quoted from monkfe:

If you buy them...use elevator bolts to keep the hardware hidden, on the top box I grind down the carriage bolts heads a bit and recess them to hide them as well...the receiver bolts can also be purchased as elevator bolts as well and everything is hidden (bolt wise that is)

Won't elevator bolts still protrude from the cabinet and head?

#13077 1 year ago
Quoted from Dan1733:

Won't elevator bolts still protrude from the cabinet and head?

I’m guessing he countersunk them
Which you could do with any type of head bolts I’d say.

#13078 1 year ago

So is it a good idea to countersink all your bolt heads and cover them with the decals? It seems that it would look nice. Just curious…. I’m about to do my Funhouse.

#13079 1 year ago
Quoted from Green-Machine:

So is it a good idea to countersink all your bolt heads and cover them with the decals? It seems that it would look nice. Just curious…. I’m about to do my Funhouse.

only if you're going to use radcals as they're thicker and can hide the transition in the bolt area...yes you probably could use the original carriage bolt and grind it down, but the elevator bolts are made thin and wide so they work out of the box...Yes you'll have to use a router with a flat tip type bit to dish out the wood to make the bolt sit flush. On the upper back box where I had to use the original bolts (they don't seem to make the smaller size in the elevator type bolts), I used a piece of oak with the appropriate size hole that I center over the area where I need to drill. I clamp it down and use a forstner style bit to take a sliver of wood out to get the bolt to sit beneath the cabinet surface just a bit.

#13080 1 year ago
Quoted from monkfe:

Chris Hibler has a great youtube video on how he removes these caps using a wide blade soldering tip...but the concept is that they need to be heated up at the same time...I didn't want to purchase the high end blade tip as they're really expensive so I use my desoldering gun along with my regular soldering tip and heat both the legs at the same time(two people help here) and they pretty much just fall right out...(I add some solder to them first to get the heat moving better)try this next time...

Hibler is obviously an expert at his craft, no doubt. I dunno though. The snap caps put a lot of force on the through holes even when the solder is liquified. Oh well, I've made it standard practice to add jumpers, regardless of how well things went. Call it insurance.

My post hopefully can help others in illustrating where the jumpers need to go for a WPC-89 driver board.

Ugh, I ordered a replacement CPU from Pinball Basement before reading about the unlikelyhood of me ever getting what I ordered - and if I do get it, will it work? Wishing I would have done my research first. My CPU works, but the alkaline damage has taken its toll.

#13081 1 year ago
Quoted from monkfe:

If you buy them...use elevator bolts to keep the hardware hidden, on the top box I grind down the carriage bolts heads a bit and recess them to hide them as well...the receiver bolts can also be purchased as elevator bolts as well and everything is hidden (bolt wise that is)

I like the bolts to show. Looks more factory and remains serviceable.

#13082 1 year ago
Quoted from Green-Machine:

So is it a good idea to countersink all your bolt heads and cover them with the decals?

No. It inhibits serviceability down the road.

Pull out the bolts, apply the decal, and then drill small pilot holes in the decals, reinstall all bolts.

Sure, it won’t be as clean looking, but you won’t be permanently covering anything in case you need access or to replace something in the next 20 years.

#13083 1 year ago
Quoted from mbaumle:

No. It inhibits serviceability down the road.
Pull out the bolts, apply the decal, and then drill small pilot holes in the decals, reinstall all bolts.
Sure, it won’t be as clean looking, but you won’t be permanently covering anything in case you need access or to replace something in the next 20 years.

Once you do it right, no need to do any service related to these bolts/screws and hardwares in the backbox in the next 100 years.

#13084 1 year ago
Quoted from PinJim:

The snap caps put a lot of force on the through holes even when the solder is liquified. Oh well, I've made it standard practice to add jumpers, regardless of how well things went. Call it insurance.

I conjecture that the OEM boards were manufactured with a through hole diameter that was slightly too small. This was probably deliberate in order to ensure that the snap-in capacitor did not fall out during wave soldering. It could also be that the commonly used Marcon capacitor leads were a little too big for the holes.

I just built one of my reproduction boards and (stupidly like a DumbAss) installed one of the snap-in capacitors incorrectly. I had to remove it and correct it. Granted the solder was fresh but I had absolutely no issue removing it. My hole diameter is 2.032mm but there is obvious variance (tolerance) with manufacturing. The datasheet for Nichicon LLS series recommends 2mm +/- 0.1mm with the widest point of the lead being 1.5mm +/- 0.2mm.

Removing capacitors from OEM boards is a tight fit. I do not install jumpers but rather use a through hole stitch for a much better cosmetic finish. Through hole repair (or a rivet / grommet) is the truly professional repair. When asked to re-repair boards with jumpers installed for ripped through holes from a previous repair (attempt), I always remove the jumpers and use a through hole stitch.

#13085 1 year ago

The trick I have always used for snap-in caps is to desolder only one pin thoroughly using wick (adding solder always helps). Then with chain nose fine point needle nose pliers "straighten" the terminal.

Apply lots of heat to the other conductor and the cap will almost fall out.

Works every time.

#13086 1 year ago

Finally found a nice TZ !! Was in complete original state with perfect playfield, clean boards and connectors. Time for some upgrades and mods !

LED in GI and some in backbox (Blue in Twilight logo), cool white in door opening, red in gumball, yellow behind slotmachine and pyramid, rest I left in original lamps to keep the atmosphere...

3D prints !! :
Topper :Pyramid with bottom led strip and led in Top, large door , Mystic seer
In Game : small pyramid on mini PF, Invader robot, Robby Robot, Yellow arrow, Rocket, UFO, switch cover, Open door in shooterlane, street lamp
Speaker panel inserts
Coindoor : keyhanger

2nd red Pop bumper swapped to amber one
Installed Red Ford Thunderbird on top of playfield

Finalizing : camera
working on : piano
On hand : Douglas DC3 (but will not over load it) and brainerd

Happy with results !

1 (resized).JPG1 (resized).JPG2 (resized).JPG2 (resized).JPG3 (resized).jpg3 (resized).jpg4 (resized).jpg4 (resized).jpg4E626980-C574-46B3-BCD2-834B60CBEA06 (resized).JPG4E626980-C574-46B3-BCD2-834B60CBEA06 (resized).JPG5 (resized).jpg5 (resized).jpg6 (resized).JPG6 (resized).JPG8 (resized).jpg8 (resized).jpgIMG_4928 (resized).jpgIMG_4928 (resized).jpgIMG_4930 (resized).jpgIMG_4930 (resized).jpgIMG_4933 (resized).JPGIMG_4933 (resized).JPG
#13087 1 year ago

Hi, I recently joined the TZ club and I’m hoping someone here can help me out. I have a couple of plastics that are damaged and I would prefer to not buy the whole set just to replace these two. Can anybody spare these two purple town square pieces? Please PM me if you can help out or just reply here if there’s a better place to ask this question.

Thanks in advance.

4A9366B2-45BB-4AA4-9CAD-171E114E96AD (resized).jpeg4A9366B2-45BB-4AA4-9CAD-171E114E96AD (resized).jpeg
#13088 1 year ago
Quoted from Runswithscissors:

Hi, I recently joined the TZ club and I’m hoping someone here can help me out. I have a couple of plastics that are damaged and I would prefer to not buy the whole set just to replace these two. Can anybody spare these two purple town square pieces? Please PM me if you can help out or just reply here if there’s a better place to ask this question.
Thanks in advance.
[quoted image]

You could just buy new ones: https://www.ministryofpinball.com/en/twilight%20zone%20plastics%20set.html

The shop is in the Netherlands, but I'm pretty sure they ship to the US.

#13089 1 year ago
Quoted from pete_d:

You could just buy new ones: https://www.ministryofpinball.com/en/twilight%20zone%20plastics%20set.html
The shop is in the Netherlands, but I'm pretty sure they ship to the US.

Wow, thanks. I’ve done several searches and hadn’t run across this site.

#13090 1 year ago
Quoted from Davi:

TZ door flasher board interest check: I will create most probably the last batch in 2022-2023.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/twilight-zone-door-lamp-board-flashers-add-on

The batch is ready.
I have sent PM's.

#13091 1 year ago

Can someone point me in the direction of these.? For my tz and wh2o... not sure what to type at Marcos. Thanks

64108BC1-62E3-403F-92D7-D68AD65005F8 (resized).jpeg64108BC1-62E3-403F-92D7-D68AD65005F8 (resized).jpegF44FBE6C-1077-45AD-81B7-00F505DA5A10 (resized).jpegF44FBE6C-1077-45AD-81B7-00F505DA5A10 (resized).jpegFD688AE2-F971-412C-B9B7-EFFCC24A847E (resized).jpegFD688AE2-F971-412C-B9B7-EFFCC24A847E (resized).jpeg
#13092 1 year ago
Quoted from PinballGalore:

Can someone point me in the direction of these.? For my tz and wh2o... not sure what to type at Marcos. Thanks
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

SN74S244 seems out of stock (available on ebay).
https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=74ls374
https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=2n6427

#13093 1 year ago

SN74LS244N is available from Mouser: 595-SN74LS244NE4

The 374 part is on national backorder, but you should be able to find them online.

The transistor 2N6427 (Mouser 610-2N6427) is available.

#13094 1 year ago

On advice of this discussion forum… absolutely love it!

Thank you all for helping me continue to spend $$$!

BDC438FA-C63D-4C3B-88B2-B21C628B8E5A (resized).jpegBDC438FA-C63D-4C3B-88B2-B21C628B8E5A (resized).jpeg
#13095 1 year ago

Hey folks,

My TZ is having an issue where it won't recognize a ball going through the piano hole. It will do a ball search but won't kick anything out. I'll then have to drop a spare ball into the piano hole to have it recognize the mode and therefore ejects both balls. Any ideas?

#13096 1 year ago

Fix the switch in there. And check bracket holding coil is tight to the playfield, and no broken wires.

You can check both in Tests, switch edge, or coils.

LTG : )

#13097 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Fix the switch in there. And check bracket holding coil is tight to the playfield, and no broken wires.
You can check both in Tests, switch edge, or coils.
LTG : )

This. Ball is getting hung up on the switch.

#13098 1 year ago

Looking for IGT slot machine topper. I know, long shot.

PM me if you have one you'd sell or trade.

Thank you.

#13099 1 year ago

Thinking of adding mirror blades to my TZ.

Wondering what others who have used mirror blades recommended.

Does it look good or do you prefer other blades?

#13100 1 year ago
Quoted from Madmax541:

Thinking of adding mirror blades to my TZ.
Wondering what others who have used mirror blades recommended.
Does it look good or do you prefer other blades?

Huge fan of them on TZ! Really extends the look of the wide body.

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